[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[mrg3]

1) last time my bike like yours.. i service the carburettor + do grounding.. and the power is constant not like stuck2 like that.. thats for my case la.. maybe others have different inputs/experience

 

Thanks bro Amarzaki, I'll be servicing and balancing the carbs one of these days and do some grounding as well. Lets see how it goes.

[mrg3]

1) Can be caused by too much eo as recommended or bad plugs or old electrical wires.

 

2) I will consider it normal..don't expect to twist the throttle and expect real time power respond..u are drowning the sparks with excessive charge of fuel vapor. Could oso be due to too much throttle cable slack or old electrical wirings.

 

The power band for this bike is at about 6.5-7.5k...so to say, you want no flat spot feel and sudden burst..this is the rpm range u should play with. Number of teethhas nothing to do with flat spot.

 

Suggest u do correct grounding methods and have better friction free eo.

 

Thanks Ah Pek! Yeah, I checked the oil level and it was overfilled by the shop. I don't know what EO they put in. Shall remove the excess EO, also thinking of replacing iridium plugs and will check the wires and connectors.

 

Yeah, spot on, the throttle cable is a tad too slack.

 

So the 5K flat spot is normal I suppose. It is quite torquey around 4K though so I change gears around there during normal riding.

 

What's a good EO for these bikes in your opinion? Also, any recommended place I can do the grounding at? Maybe yourself?

[returner]

Thanks Ah Pek! Yeah, I checked the oil level and it was overfilled by the shop. I don't know what EO they put in. Shall remove the excess EO, also thinking of replacing iridium plugs and will check the wires and connectors.

 

Yeah, spot on, the throttle cable is a tad too slack.

 

So the 5K flat spot is normal I suppose. It is quite torquey around 4K though so I change gears around there during normal riding.

 

What's a good EO for these bikes in your opinion? Also, any recommended place I can do the grounding at? Maybe yourself?

 

Ah pek engine oil and grounding is used by many S4 here.... i did not have it as i do not have enough money.

[ghost]

while looking for suitable tire pressure i bump across this webby that shows extracts of verS & pb1 manual ...good for reference reading

 

http://www.angelfire.com/mt2/spurs/main/article/ownermanual.htm

 

now i know the recommended tire pressure with pillion will be front-28kpi back-35kpi (if i got the conversion correctly that is)...way lower than i expect for the front..

am looking for this info too. tks

 

btw, isn't it the pressure depends on the tire? if it's not original tire which i think not, so the pressure cannot follow the manual rite?

 

my handle bar dun know too tight or too loose, when going at low speed before coming to a stop, the front tire wobble a lot that it's hard to control.

[Ah Pek]

am looking for this info too. tks

 

btw, isn't it the pressure depends on the tire? if it's not original tire which i think not, so the pressure cannot follow the manual rite?

 

my handle bar dun know too tight or too loose, when going at low speed before coming to a stop, the front tire wobble a lot that it's hard to control.

 

U r right. The maual is only a reference and a guy and it's for everything stock and catered for Japanese average size ppl and they are rather small size in terms for weight. Pump with what u r most comfortable with..according to ur carriage overall loading and style of riding and types of tyre chosen. Also to consider the variance part or the road surface and level...the tarmac..some rougher, some smooth and some inbetween and their evenness..

[Ah Pek]

Thanks Ah Pek! Yeah, I checked the oil level and it was overfilled by the shop. I don't know what EO they put in. Shall remove the excess EO, also thinking of replacing iridium plugs and will check the wires and connectors.

 

Yeah, spot on, the throttle cable is a tad too slack.

 

So the 5K flat spot is normal I suppose. It is quite torquey around 4K though so I change gears around there during normal riding.

 

What's a good EO for these bikes in your opinion? Also, any recommended place I can do the grounding at? Maybe yourself?

 

Don't waste $s on iridiumn if u don't do long continuos or non stop riding. It's good for long trip where continous sparking of a plug matters. Go visit DENSO or NGK web site and read about it..in their white paper, they mentioned that it does not give better performance than the standard nickel cadium plugs..just that it iridium is harder and stronger.

[mrg3]

Don't waste $s on iridiumn if u don't do long continuos or non stop riding. It's good for long trip where continous sparking of a plug matters. Go visit DENSO or NGK web site and read about it..in their white paper, they mentioned that it does not give better performance than the standard nickel cadium plugs..just that it iridium is harder and stronger.

 

Yeah, I travel around 70 kms a day on the expressways. I have been using iridium for sometime on my previous bikes as well. They do have an advantage when you travel long distances. The problem I see with these plugs is that only the center electrode is iridium but the grounding electrode im assuming is made of normal material, which tends to wear off. I need to adjust the gap frequently. Don't know what effect the wearing off of the grounding electrode has on the plug's performance though.

 

I heard you did the grounding for some member's bikes before? Free to do it on mine as well?

[eddie_ash]

hi guys, selling away my version s tank bra adn rack only without brackets.. sms 83687274

[Ah Pek]

Yeah, I travel around 70 kms a day on the expressways. I have been using iridium for sometime on my previous bikes as well. They do have an advantage when you travel long distances. The problem I see with these plugs is that only the center electrode is iridium but the grounding electrode im assuming is made of normal material, which tends to wear off. I need to adjust the gap frequently. Don't know what effect the wearing off of the grounding electrode has on the plug's performance though.

 

I heard you did the grounding for some member's bikes before? Free to do it on mine as well?

 

Sure..just pm me when u r free.

[PS9514]

Hi bros, any advice? TIA.

Found low beam of headlight is not working, changed the bulb and still same. Figured out that only when the bulb plug in, low beam not working. If i connect a normal 2 wire bulb to either low beam or hi beam, it works.

CB400, Ver S

 

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk

[ProFatSir]

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=348579

 

Selling my pb1.

 

sent from my Ericsson GH388.

[Ah Pek]

Hi bros, any advice? TIA.

Found low beam of headlight is not working, changed the bulb and still same. Figured out that only when the bulb plug in, low beam not working. If i connect a normal 2 wire bulb to either low beam or hi beam, it works.

CB400, Ver S

 

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk

 

Ur message is not clear..what do u mean by change bulb and before this..was it ok?...new bulb?..Halogen H4? Did u check the two filaments inside the bulb?..is one of them broken? When handling halogen bulb..you MUST NOT TOUCH THE GLASS..either hold by the tip or the metal mounting body. Post back here..see if I can answer ur question.

[PS9514]

Thanks Ah Pek,

Actually when i took over the bike few weeks ago, the low beam of headlight already not working. I tot that just replace the bulb and everything will be fine, but not that way.

Yes it is a Halogen H4 bulb, both filaments inside looks ok.

To prove the bulb is working, when switch in low beam i wire 2 wire from the headlight's socket pins (Common and Low beam), then directly shorted to the pins of the bulb. It works.

Tried on pin of hi beam, it works also.

Repeated same method (When switched to Hi beam) on socket pins (Common and Hi beam), it works either.

But once i plug in the bulb to the socket, bulb won't turn on when switch to low beam. Switched to Hi beam will work.

So have been riding with Hi beam, but "Passing" don't work.

Let me know if my explanation not clear, maybe i can attach some pictures or can visit you with oranges for CNY.

Thanks again and a Happy CNY.

[Ah Pek]

Thanks Ah Pek,

Actually when i took over the bike few weeks ago, the low beam of headlight already not working. I tot that just replace the bulb and everything will be fine, but not that way.

Yes it is a Halogen H4 bulb, both filaments inside looks ok.

To prove the bulb is working, when switch in low beam i wire 2 wire from the headlight's socket pins (Common and Low beam), then directly shorted to the pins of the bulb. It works.

Tried on pin of hi beam, it works also.

Repeated same method (When switched to Hi beam) on socket pins (Common and Hi beam), it works either.

But once i plug in the bulb to the socket, bulb won't turn on when switch to low beam. Switched to Hi beam will work.

So have been riding with Hi beam, but "Passing" don't work.

Let me know if my explanation not clear, maybe i can attach some pictures or can visit you with oranges for CNY.

Thanks again and a Happy CNY.

 

Quite an efforst u made there. Looks like you be testing only by supplying current to the new bulb via means thru the bilbs socket pins and also the status serviceability of ur switch assembly hi/low beam see-saw switch...that's fine. But I don't read any part that the checkmis done on the socket itself xcept only that you plug in the bulb..nothing works for the low lightung after that..right. Ok..base on this understanding..I can only suspect tha ur socket housing (heat resistant white palstic piece) may be faulty on the low beam supply pin connection. There should be 3 wires to the socket...see if any area of the pin connector from the wires into the plastic is damaged..tell tale sign is brownish like burn marks on the white socket...if not, see if the pin connector of this plastic socket is loose sitting or broken. Also trace the low beam supply wire if it's being 'modified' before like having a join (could be replacement by previous owner). If this socket is faultey..can get at LAB for $3.50..make sur ethe wiring is semi-stiff type and fatter than usual as it's for hi-current loading type of wire.

 

Keep us inform and good luck.

 

Happy CNY too bro..errr..I don't eat oranges leh and no lah..ha....x3!

[ahdon]

Hi peeps,

 

Got a problem with my fuse. recently, while riding, my fuse to my signal, horn, brake, meter console, will blow. Then when I change the fuse, and start the bike, pull the brake handle, and the fuse blow again.

 

any ideas?

 

Thanks!

[HaiR1]

Hi peeps,

 

Got a problem with my fuse. recently, while riding, my fuse to my signal, horn, brake, meter console, will blow. Then when I change the fuse, and start the bike, pull the brake handle, and the fuse blow again.

 

any ideas?

 

Thanks!

 

Maybe ther's a bare wire somewher tat is shorted/exposed to your bike frame as a result..

 

Very tricky issue as u/ bikeshop have to trace the culprit.. Happened to my bike b4..

 

Was quoted few hundreds $ by fellow friends whom 'recommend' me the shop.. Lucky for me, I went to my preferred bike shop.. Damage was less than 80 .. Found the 2 exposed wire,1 under my seat,another near fuse..

 

 

It depends on the complicity of detection the prob n Oso how good is the mech doin your bike..

[HaiR1]

Hi peeps,

 

Got a problem with my fuse. recently, while riding, my fuse to my signal, horn, brake, meter console, will blow. Then when I change the fuse, and start the bike, pull the brake handle, and the fuse blow again.

 

any ideas?

 

Thanks!

 

 

 

In my case, my bike meter was totally OFF xcept for the Blinking HISS light u see for Spec3 when parking.

Bike have power loss, unAble to go above 70

[eddie_ash]

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/376691-version-s-cb400, selling some stuffs

[Jehuty]

Anyone can recommend a good mech for Version S? The last mech I did with was terrible, bike still had valve problems, possible misfiring, basically engine problems.

[HaiR1]

Anyone can recommend a good mech for Version S? The last mech I did with was terrible, bike still had valve problems, possible misfiring, basically engine problems.

 

 

Try Racewerks @ Bukit Merah ther.

[PS9514]

Quite an efforst u made there. Looks like you be testing only by supplying current to the new bulb via means thru the bilbs socket pins and also the status serviceability of ur switch assembly hi/low beam see-saw switch...that's fine. But I don't read any part that the checkmis done on the socket itself xcept only that you plug in the bulb..nothing works for the low lightung after that..right. Ok..base on this understanding..I can only suspect tha ur socket housing (heat resistant white palstic piece) may be faulty on the low beam supply pin connection. There should be 3 wires to the socket...see if any area of the pin connector from the wires into the plastic is damaged..tell tale sign is brownish like burn marks on the white socket...if not, see if the pin connector of this plastic socket is loose sitting or broken. Also trace the low beam supply wire if it's being 'modified' before like having a join (could be replacement by previous owner). If this socket is faultey..can get at LAB for $3.50..make sur ethe wiring is semi-stiff type and fatter than usual as it's for hi-current loading type of wire.

 

Keep us inform and good luck.

 

Happy CNY too bro..errr..I don't eat oranges leh and no lah..ha....x3!

 

Have been riding with Hi-beam since failed in troubleshooting and still have no time for next round of troubleshooting. Just now on the way home, try switch to Lo-beam and it turns on. Weird but happy

Most probably some contact issue somewhere, hopefully issue don't return again.

Thanks for your attention and advices. :thumbup:

 

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk

[Burnout69]

Have been riding with Hi-beam since failed in troubleshooting and still have no time for next round of troubleshooting. Just now on the way home, try switch to Lo-beam and it turns on. Weird but happy

Most probably some contact issue somewhere, hopefully issue don't return again.

Thanks for your attention and advices. :thumbup:

 

Sent from my cm_tenderloin using Tapatalk

Ive had the same issue.. but found my problem at the push start button.. somehow or rather wen I play wit it it juz light up back..

[exwhyzee]

Have been riding with Hi-beam since failed in troubleshooting and still have no time for next round of troubleshooting. Just now on the way home, try switch to Lo-beam and it turns on. Weird but happy

Most probably some contact issue somewhere, hopefully issue don't return again.

Thanks for your attention and advices. :thumbup:

 

Ive had the same issue.. but found my problem at the push start button.. somehow or rather wen I play wit it it juz light up back..

 

had tis issue before...high beam can low beam cannot...went unique they say starter switch spoilt must change whole assembly at $100 plus...went to planet for second opinion ah chong oso says starter switch spoilt but he got his mechanic to open up the assembly dunno do wat fix it back then problem solved...30 bucks

[mrg3]

Anyone can recommend a good mech for Version S? The last mech I did with was terrible, bike still had valve problems, possible misfiring, basically engine problems.

 

Can try Planet. Heard they are quite good or Ah Pek knows a good shop at AMK.

[ghost]

Try Racewerks @ Bukit Merah ther.

 

Can try Planet. Heard they are quite good or Ah Pek knows a good shop at AMK.

how r their prices? how abt unique motor?

 

U r right. The maual is only a reference and a guy and it's for everything stock and catered for Japanese average size ppl and they are rather small size in terms for weight. Pump with what u r most comfortable with..according to ur carriage overall loading and style of riding and types of tyre chosen. Also to consider the variance part or the road surface and level...the tarmac..some rougher, some smooth and some inbetween and their evenness..

so much to consider, like that sound like everyday depending on what u do or go, have to pump differently