Suzuki Hayabusa

[kelvin_luffs]

Hi Kelvin,

 

Don't think you will need to change the rotor if your original is still okay or in spec. Just change to sinister brake pad will do. Changing to aftermarket rotor of same steel material will give liitle to zero increase in braking power.

 

Hi kinwei, how do I know if my rotors are still in good condition? I'll change the brake pads as soon as I get my bike back. Giving it a new coat of paint right now.

[kinwei]

I only have the Gen2 specification, Gen1 might be different. However the follow method is universal,

 

1) Check the rotor thickness. Can use vernier caliper or micrometer to measure. For Gen2, cannot be less than 5mm.

2) Check the rotor for warp. Need to jack up front wheel, remove brake caliper and then use dial gauge to check for the wobbling. For Gen2, cannot be more than 0.3mm.

3) Check the rotor surface. This just visual check for obvious surface damage.

 

For item 2, you might need to ask your mechanic to help with the check. Seldom ppl will buy dial gauge for personal use.

 

Just go for brake pad change first and see how. I will go check the thickness first as it is the easiest. I will not be very worry about the rotor warp. As long no previous encounter of rotor being knocked, no funny feeling on the brake lever when braking and no obvious wobbling of the rotor, I just just treat it as OKAY.

 

Sometime when brake become too powerful, it might not a good thing especially under E brake situation.

[shahrul_azmil3]

time check. 12 43am

 

juz finish doing up my bike.

 

almost done

 

silly me, change tank but forgot to place gasket at the fuel pump area. no wonder my bike smell of petrol n the indicator state empty.

 

still left undone

 

- gasket at fuel pump

- front and back signal lights

- front brake pads and rotors

- program gear indicator

- remove paint at side of rim then high polish

- install original end can

 

gd nite guys

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Xparent Cyan Tapatalk

[kinwei]

Thought I give some update on the previous spark plug debate.

 

Previously I mentioned I am still using my stock spark plug for around 42k km. Was thinking of shooting for 50k km at least before changing. Well, I had changed the stock plug at 43k km. Reason being, I found my fuel comsuption had dropped from 16km/L to 13.8km/L. This is after monitoring it for a few tanks of petrol. But till this point, the bike power is still okay. Still can hit top without any issue.

 

So there I go change my plug. Now then I realized my stock plug is Denso IU27D. After taking out the stock, I check the plug, looks okay. Don't have any feeler gauge to check the gap, so I compare it with my new NGK CR9EIA-9, by visual. Looks the same, like no wear on the stock plug. Anyway, fixed up the new plug.

 

After a few tanks of petrol, nbz, my FC still poor and no noticeble increase in power. I am suspecting my petrol had evaporated due to minimal riding. I used to pump weekly but have since change to pump every fortnightly due to lesser riding time. I try to prove my theory by riding more to finish 1 full tank within a week. My FC become normal. So 2 conclusion,

 

1) Petrol after 1 week, will evaporate around 2L based on my bike

2) Iridium spark plug can last more than 40k km based on my bike and riding style.

 

I am going for 50k km next. So much for my blabbing..

[kelvin_luffs]

I only have the Gen2 specification, Gen1 might be different. However the follow method is universal,

 

1) Check the rotor thickness. Can use vernier caliper or micrometer to measure. For Gen2, cannot be less than 5mm.

2) Check the rotor for warp. Need to jack up front wheel, remove brake caliper and then use dial gauge to check for the wobbling. For Gen2, cannot be more than 0.3mm.

3) Check the rotor surface. This just visual check for obvious surface damage.

 

For item 2, you might need to ask your mechanic to help with the check. Seldom ppl will buy dial gauge for personal use.

 

Just go for brake pad change first and see how. I will go check the thickness first as it is the easiest. I will not be very worry about the rotor warp. As long no previous encounter of rotor being knocked, no funny feeling on the brake lever when braking and no obvious wobbling of the rotor, I just just treat it as OKAY.

 

Sometime when brake become too powerful, it might not a good thing especially under E brake situation.

 

Hey thanks. I'll take note of your advice. Will get my rotors checked. Your suggestion may save me $1k in expense. Haha.

 

Since we are at the topic of braking system, I've been doing some reading up and have plenty of mixed reviews on EBC HH & EBC Extreme Pro. Do you have any recommendation on which of these pads I should use or do you have other brands that you'll suggest?

 

Thanks for your time bro.

[kelvin_luffs]

Guys, pls pardon me with all the qns. I'm in the midst of sprucing up my ride so I hope to do the right thing.

 

For the bros here with their bikes at least 5-7 years of age, do you experience rusting around the circumference of the fuel insert area below the fuel cap?

 

Can this rusted area be replaced / must I replace the whole fuel tank? Will a keyless gas cap help in such predicament?

 

Thanks for your patience & responses.

[kelvin_luffs]

Double post.

[shahrul_azmil3]

is it adviseable to place a hh rating pads on the rear brakes?

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Xparent Cyan Tapatalk

[kinwei]

Hey thanks. I'll take note of your advice. Will get my rotors checked. Your suggestion may save me $1k in expense. Haha.

 

Since we are at the topic of braking system, I've been doing some reading up and have plenty of mixed reviews on EBC HH & EBC Extreme Pro. Do you have any recommendation on which of these pads I should use or do you have other brands that you'll suggest?

 

Thanks for your time bro.

 

I have never use EBC Extreme Pro before, only EBC HH. So can't comment on this. I have already bought the EBC HH pad for my bike. Might try the Extreme pro next. Provided I'm still riding this bike.

 

Guys, pls pardon me with all the qns. I'm in the midst of sprucing up my ride so I hope to do the right thing.

 

For the bros here with their bikes at least 5-7 years of age, do you experience rusting around the circumference of the fuel insert area below the fuel cap?

 

Can this rusted area be replaced / must I replace the whole fuel tank? Will a keyless gas cap help in such predicament?

 

Thanks for your patience & responses.

 

The area you talking about belongs to the fuel tank. If you want to replace it, you got to replace the whole fuel tank. One way is to sand away the rust and reapply an anti rust coating. Since it is more on the outside, it should be easier to do. You can check out with those spray paint shop? Or your friendly moto thiam?

[kelvin_luffs]

Thought I give some update on the previous spark plug debate.

 

Previously I mentioned I am still using my stock spark plug for around 42k km. Was thinking of shooting for 50k km at least before changing. Well, I had changed the stock plug at 43k km. Reason being, I found my fuel comsuption had dropped from 16km/L to 13.8km/L. This is after monitoring it for a few tanks of petrol. But till this point, the bike power is still okay. Still can hit top without any issue.

 

So there I go change my plug. Now then I realized my stock plug is Denso IU27D. After taking out the stock, I check the plug, looks okay. Don't have any feeler gauge to check the gap, so I compare it with my new NGK CR9EIA-9, by visual. Looks the same, like no wear on the stock plug. Anyway, fixed up the new plug.

 

After a few tanks of petrol, nbz, my FC still poor and no noticeble increase in power. I am suspecting my petrol had evaporated due to minimal riding. I used to pump weekly but have since change to pump every fortnightly due to lesser riding time. I try to prove my theory by riding more to finish 1 full tank within a week. My FC become normal. So 2 conclusion,

 

1) Petrol after 1 week, will evaporate around 2L based on my bike

2) Iridium spark plug can last more than 40k km based on my bike and riding style.

 

I am going for 50k km next. So much for my blabbing..

 

Hmm.. told my mechanic to change my spark plugs too.

 

Don't know what brand did he change to.

 

Been using stock plugs for the last 6 years.

 

Mileage only 30k on my ride.

[kinwei]

is it adviseable to place a hh rating pads on the rear brakes?

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Xparent Cyan Tapatalk

 

Erm, I would say no point rather than not advisable. Usually just use normal cheap brake pad will do. You used rear brake alot? Personally I never use my rear brake at all.

[kinwei]

Hmm.. told my mechanic to change my spark plugs too.

 

Don't know what brand did he change to.

 

Been using stock plugs for the last 6 years.

 

Mileage only 30k on my ride.

 

If your stock is iridium, can last for quite long. Car manufacturer has been changing iridium plug at 100k km interval. Anyway for bike has to be lower due to higher performance. Anyway it is personal preference. I'm taking the risk by increasing the change interval cause I don't like to dismantle/assembled my bike too much. Your case, if you think it is okay, then go ahead to change. Anyway 6 years + 30k km liao, think okay lah. Although spark plug usually based on mileage and not on time.

[kelvin_luffs]

I have never use EBC Extreme Pro before, only EBC HH. So can't comment on this. I have already bought the EBC HH pad for my bike. Might try the Extreme pro next. Provided I'm still riding this bike.

 

 

hmm.. ok. I'll try out the extreme pro then (provided there's stock). You giving up riding the busa?

 

 

 

The area you talking about belongs to the fuel tank. If you want to replace it, you got to replace the whole fuel tank. One way is to sand away the rust and reapply an anti rust coating. Since it is more on the outside, it should be easier to do. You can check out with those spray paint shop? Or your friendly moto thiam?

 

OMG.. this seems like a time consuming procedure again! (my bike is at the moto thiam for 3 weeks already). Thanks for the input bro. Will check it out with my friendly motor thiam on this issue. hahahaha...

 

You guys have been a great help! Thanks so much man!

[shahrul_azmil3]

Erm, I would say no point rather than not advisable. Usually just use normal cheap brake pad will do. You used rear brake alot? Personally I never use my rear brake at all.

 

i use my rear brake quite alot.

 

during jams, stopping, conering

 

come to think of it i always use it

 

but not to the extend to stop the bike, its usually to help in breaking and to slow down abit only.

[kelvin_luffs]

is it adviseable to place a hh rating pads on the rear brakes?

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Xparent Cyan Tapatalk

 

Bro, since the EBC HH pads are so good at stopping our beast, wouldn't it pose more danger for us (rear wheel lock)? Because the force taken to apply the rear brakes is usually more because our legs are less sensitive as compared to our fingers.

 

I can't imagine in a desperate situation I unconsciously apply hard force on the rear brakes thereby locking the rear wheel causing a fishtail effect. The consequence may be dire.

 

In my last shave with death, I was in the exact situation where I applied both front n rear brakes hard (on normal pads, stock rear brake caliper), it resulted in my bike fishtailing. So instead of gaining more traction to slow the bike down, the eventual effect was that my bike wasn't much slower.

 

I honestly won't think that changing the rear to EBC HH pads won't do us good.

 

My 2 cents worth.

Edited April 26, 2012 by kelvin_luffs

[kinwei]

hmm.. ok. I'll try out the extreme pro then (provided there's stock). You giving up riding the busa?

 

Not giving up yet, actually hoping to ride till coe ends but dunno can tahan the itch of newer bike or not.

[kelvin_luffs]

Not giving up yet, actually hoping to ride till coe ends but dunno can tahan the itch of newer bike or not.

 

Same here. I've got only 4 more years left on my ride. Perhaps I'll renew COE perhaps I'll give up riding. Perhaps Perhaps Perhaps. Hahaha.

[shahrul_azmil3]

if only abs is an aftermarket device that can buy.

 

something good to invest on.

 

sad . . . .

[MERCENARY]

Mark Kor ... You are responsible for your statements ...

 

Yup as for track,a stock busa is never meant for track thats why categorise under sport touring.

What i recommended is through track gurus and junkies advices.

 

To each of its own.

[MERCENARY]

arbine;7564293']i've always had good expierence with pirelli's tires so most prob gonna stick to them...

 

No doubt about that,same goes for the price.

[Nok97]

News spread fast ...

Has been hunting for awhile ...

Project started today.

Good .... enjoy ur toy pal...

[Stardust83]

Morning guys !

[shahrul_azmil3]

holiday coming!

[shahrul_azmil3]

tomorrow is the day i collect my ebc disc. wohooo!

 

then sunday is the day im at void deck diy ing.

 

yeah!

 

i love the time i work on my bike.

 

the feeling is priceless

 

everything else theres mastercard

[Laguna11]

anyone going melaka or genting this weekend ?