[Discussion] DRZ 400 SM

[apocalypse89]

hey people! got an enquiry eh...today i was riding my Zee with the petrol cock at "PRI"... however, suddenly my bike died and when i switched it to "RES", i couldnt start my bike and there was no more petrol in my tank...

 

anyone able to explain this phenomenon? Maybe it was turned too must and was actually in RES or something? thanks for your help !

[cwmike21]

hey people! got an enquiry eh...today i was riding my Zee with the petrol cock at "PRI"... however, suddenly my bike died and when i switched it to "RES", i couldnt start my bike and there was no more petrol in my tank...

 

anyone able to explain this phenomenon? Maybe it was turned too must and was actually in RES or something? thanks for your help !

 

I think pri is meant for allowing fuel to carb there but hav to turn it to 'on' after that. Then when ur bike stall means u gotta turn fuel to 'res' so u gotta go pump petrol le. If I'm nt wrong ur bike tank is totally empty right? Next time just make sure ur knob is at 'on' after h pump petrol so u know it's at res when u turn to 'res' rather than let the knob stay at 'res' than monitor the mileage. That's what I do. Any experts advice care to share? Tks

[biting_point]

Always use bike in "ON"

When your bike feels jerky, switch to "RES"

 

Then go pump, after pump, rem to switch back to "ON"

 

"PRI" is only use to prime your carb after a wash..

Or if your vaccum hose not working..

 

There's nothing wrong with your bike, just that you use the wrong setting of the fuel switch..

[biting_point]

Always use bike in "ON"

When your bike feels jerky, switch to "RES"

 

Then go pump, after pump, rem to switch back to "ON"

 

"PRI" is only use to prime your carb after a wash..

Or if your vaccum hose not working..

 

There's nothing wrong with your bike, just that you use the wrong setting of the fuel switch..

[CivicDash]

Hello DRZ riders. I am interested in getting a DRZ for transport and to track. But the sticky part is I like to go on short touring rides. How far can the DRZ go before reserve?

Thanks in advance

 

My drz k5 can reach 260 with full tank of fuel before reserve around 180

[ticks]

Always use bike in "ON"

When your bike feels jerky, switch to "RES"

 

Then go pump, after pump, rem to switch back to "ON"

 

"PRI" is only use to prime your carb after a wash..

Or if your vaccum hose not working..

 

There's nothing wrong with your bike, just that you use the wrong setting of the fuel switch..

 

bro care to explain y have to prime the carb after washing? i washed my bikes a few times liao with the switch at ON and then it starts straight away. or is it for u if u shoot water directly at the carb while washing?

[Az_itsme]

he meant wash ur inside carb not outside, after wash carb ,empty liao no more petrol so prime before start

[Raptor]

There are 2 standpipes (located inside the fuel tank) connected to the fuel tap, one is slightly taller than the other.. these is the same set up for all types of bikes.

 

The standpipe that is taller is opened to the tank when the fuel tap lever is in the "ON" position. It will draw fuel till it reaches the reserve level of the tank. Turning the fuel tap lever to the 'RES' draws fuel from the bottom of the tank (through the shorter standpipe in the tank) and will empty the tank completely. This same shorter standpipe (which as mentioned earlier, can also dry up the tank) is in use when the fuel tap lever is in the 'PRI' position.

 

On later model DRZs the fuel tap is a vacumn operated tap. Meaning, the other smaller tube that is connected to the tap is a vacumn line that comes off from the carb. When the engine is running, the low pressure created in the carb will cause a low pressure or suction effect which pulls a spring loaded shutoff valve allowing fuel to flow through the tap and to the carb. This function works for the 'ON' and "RES' position... meaning that fuel will flow in these 2 positions if the engine is running. Stop the engine and the suction is gone and the spring loaded valve closes back.. effectively cutting off fuel flow from the tank. You can unplug the fuel line and fuel will not flow from the fuel tap.

 

In the 'PRI' position, the vacumn function aka auto fuel cut off is not working.. meaning if you pull out the fuel hose with the fuel tap in PRI position, fuel is going to continuously flow out from the tank till it runs dry.

 

The purpose of the PRI position is to allow you to fill up a totally dry carb so that you don't have to crank like crazy to start the bike.

[ticks]

thanks alot guys! still digesting what have been written in answer....appreciate it!

[ticks]

Ok got the idea of it.

 

Now if bros dun mind me asking noob q's. the guy from the shop i got my zee(wih FCR) told me not to allow ppl to turn the throttle when the engine is not started, saying that it will flood the carb.. How does this come into play with what have been said earlier?

 

Many thanks!

[ticks]

Ok got the idea of it.

 

Now if bros dun mind me asking noob q's. the guy from the shop i got my zee(wih FCR) told me not to allow ppl to turn the throttle when the engine is not started, saying that it will flood the carb.. How does this come into play with what have been said earlier?

 

Many thanks!

[Raptor]

The Keihin FCR carb is a flat slide carb with the mainjet needle attached and its opening and the amount of fuel from the main jet is directly controlled by the throttle position. In this carb.. the throttle can directly control BOTH the amount of fuel and air going into the engine.

 

On the stock Mikuni BSR 36, the main jet needle is controlled by the diagphram, which is determines how much the needle can be raised depending on the air flow through the carb.. the greater the air flow (velocity) the lower the pressure at the top of the carb, the higher will the needle be pulled up allowing more fuel flow to the engine, so basically in this carb, the throttle controls the opening of the valve that determines the amount of air that can go into the engine. So the diagphram works in tandem with the valve opening. In this carb, the throttle can ONLY control the amount of air going into the engine NOT the fuel. The Mikuni carb is considered a constant velocity (CV) carb.

 

You can whack the CV carb full throttle and chances are the engine won't die off but rather picks up in rpm smoothly.

 

Because of its design, by default, if you whack the throttle wide open suddenly on an FCR, chances are the engine should bog and die off as too much air will be going into the engine. Although the main jet needle is pulled up by the throttle, the initial airflow does not have enough velocity to 'pull' or suck the fuel up the needle. To compensate for this sudden fuel starvation (read as overlean mixture), an accelerator pump has been incorporated in all Keihin race carbs.

 

The accelerator pump is directly linked to the throttle and squirts a jet of fuel into the engine when the throttle is suddenly opened to prevent fuel starvation (read as overlean again) till the rpms pickup and the main jet comes into play and the fuel air ratio is correct for combustion.

 

So when somebody twists the throttle of a FCR bike, the accelerator pump keeps squirting fuel into the engine and floods the engine with fuel. Starting the bike after that is going to be a difficult affair as the engine has to be cranked over for a long time to allow air to dry up the fuel 'overdose' before the bike would slowly start with great difficulty and probably with alot of black smoke too indicating an over rich conditon.

Edited September 14, 2011 by Raptor

[Iz77]

Anybody knows roughly how much is the market price of a Fbc plate drz cost with some mod including tri con yoshi?

[cwmike21]

Hi guys, I know that it's common for the exhaust to feel hot after a ride. But mine seems to be burning hot after riding, I think I've read somewhere that if exhaust is very hot after a ride, it might be ur bike is running lean or rich (can't really rem the details thus posting the quest). Btw, I'm using Leo vince endcan only with stock air filter cos I'm still runnig in, intend to change air filter, 3x3 mod, pair removal and

Header after my run in. Tks alot guys.

 

Mr angelo, tks for the handguards. My frens commented that it's nice ya. Haha

[Raptor]

Hi guys, I know that it's common for the exhaust to feel hot after a ride. But mine seems to be burning hot after riding, I think I've read somewhere that if exhaust is very hot after a ride, it might be ur bike is running lean or rich (can't really rem the details thus posting the quest). Btw, I'm using Leo vince endcan only with stock air filter cos I'm still runnig in, intend to change air filter, 3x3 mod, pair removal and

Header after my run in. Tks alot guys.

 

Mr angelo, tks for the handguards. My frens commented that it's nice ya. Haha

 

If you put on an aftermarket exhaust, even an endcan only, it will allow better flow of air through the engine. Running with an aftermarket exhaust with the OEM jettings will cause the bike to run lean... which means the bike runs hotter.

 

Zeta makes strong handguards with good looks and function. Glad you like it.

[cwmike21]

If you put on an aftermarket exhaust, even an endcan only, it will allow better flow of air through the engine. Running with an aftermarket exhaust with the OEM jettings will cause the bike to run lean... which means the bike runs hotter.

 

Zeta makes strong handguards with good looks and function. Glad you like it.

 

So what do u suggest I do now? I've bought the air filter but haven fix yet, still at shop. Will t be better after fixing it and doing the necessary mod?

[noahkarim]

am facing this glitch now. bike when I switch off the ignition the time on the speedo will stop moving. meaning if I close the ignition at 1am, the next day I start the bike it will show as 1am. but when bike is on the time works perfectly. had not encountered this problem before. do advise guys. thanks.

[noahkarim]

am facing this glitch now. bike when I switch off the ignition the time on the speedo will stop moving. meaning if I close the ignition at 1am, the next day I start the bike it will show as 1am. but when bike is on the time works perfectly. had not encountered this problem before. do advise guys. thanks.

 

actually the clock restarts back to 1:00:00. any idea guys?

[ticks]

To the experts out there....I see some bikes' rear tyres like got "burnt" marks..it's like flakes esp on the sides...how does this happen??looks quite cool tho..

[biting_point]

actually the clock restarts back to 1:00:00. any idea guys?

 

it's a normal fault for DRZ stock meter.. unfortunately, it cant be repair..

 

To the experts out there....I see some bikes' rear tyres like got "burnt" marks..it's like flakes esp on the sides...how does this happen??looks quite cool tho..

 

it's the burnt tyre marks after track day..

 

something like this??

[ticks]

it's a normal fault for DRZ stock meter.. unfortunately, it cant be repair..

 

 

 

it's the burnt tyre marks after track day..

 

 

thanks for replying..

something like this??

[ATTACH=CONFIG]218398[/ATTACH]

 

ya bro but the ones that i see is not as severe as the one in ur pic. What is see is those no the shoulders only. Anyway what causes this? hard acceleration, cornering, braking?

[biting_point]

It was caused by the shearing and grip from the tracks from accceleration mainly..

 

This was so severe as it's taken straight after coming into pit..

Those you see on the road was like this too..

 

I have a pic of it, will post this evening..

[Raptor]

To the experts out there....I see some bikes' rear tyres like got "burnt" marks..it's like flakes esp on the sides...how does this happen??looks quite cool tho..

 

You want?

 

I have a few sets of Michelin Pilot Powers that are track take offs.. scrubbed on the sides till the edges and still very thick on the centre tread. Selling them off as secondhands.. still good enough for road use.

[biting_point]

You want?

 

I have a few sets of Michelin Pilot Powers that are track take offs.. scrubbed on the sides till the edges and still very thick on the centre tread. Selling them off as secondhands.. still good enough for road use.

 

next time ppl ask.. "wah, you been to track ahhh..!"

the reply goes: "yupzz.. the tyres had been to tracks, but not the bike..!!"

Quoted from a true story, hahaa...

 

Track-ed tyres are great for road use if you are on a budget..

But never take them out for another scrub at tracks or test them on the streets..

 

 

this tyre was a few weeks after PG session.. looks less messy..

[Barongan78]

You want?

 

I have a few sets of Michelin Pilot Powers that are track take offs.. scrubbed on the sides till the edges and still very thick on the centre tread. Selling them off as secondhands.. still good enough for road use.

 

if u stil have it, i want...

how much u're selling?

btw is it tubeless or wat?

sori alot question... :hehe:

mayb dis sat den i can only come down ur shop...