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Posted
Verified by who? Fuel addictive companies?

Does scottoiler verify those DIY oilers work the same as they do at cheaper cost?

 

Read my previous post about the diesel driver's thread.

I believe angmo's comments are more respected and creditable in singapore than the local's.

 

Anyway, 2T oil as fuel additive is not going to rival with your chain oiler business.

They are different applications, lubricate different parts of the bike.

And I do lubricate the chain regularly too.

 

i hate to see...erroneous posts..

this 2t in 4 stroke engines..been discussed many times over..

every now and then comes a guy...trying to tell the rest that this looks good...and post all the old posts..

ask any mechanic...they may say good...ie good for their buisiness..

so my point is this is an old issue...novice thinks that they have discovered the holy grail to smooth riding..

 

please this has nothing to do with oilers...anyway u want smooth riding ..this is better then some internet solutions..

 

all sort of oils/lubes been suggested..to run your engines...

one even suggest turbo charger lube to be used??

marine engines and regular engines are differnt as night and day...i think oil companies are smart people..

tribology is a huge subject...layman like you and me will have a difficult time to understand..

anyway good luck to your venture..

as for the rest who want to try...wait for your assccesment after 20000km ..

i hope you wont mia...i definitely like to hear of your success or not..

i will keep a look out on this thread....

i think i have enough infor...and i have said my piece..

thank you gentlemen

have a smooth ride ...

i love my ezzyoiler

experience the miracle...

where chain cleaning is history...

call 91797182..

:cheers::cheer:

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Posted

gentlemen...what ang noh comments better??

 

we have been duped by ang moh for centuries...

 

now asians can make almost anything the ang moh can...if not better and cheaper.

 

so the days of servitude to ang moh is over man..

 

get over this hang up ang moh is better..

i love my ezzyoiler

experience the miracle...

where chain cleaning is history...

call 91797182..

:cheers::cheer:

Posted

Mixing 2T with 4 stroke bike won't really work. My dad rides a wave and tried this for sometime. Only resulting in the bike breaking down. Mech dissassembled the engine and showed my dad the unburned 2T deposited inside.

 

Just use your normal good 4T engine oil.

“Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.†- Jeremy Clarkson

 

http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photos/3/1279813/10237619/IMG_0625-vi.jpg[

Posted
I believe angmo's comments are more respected and creditable in singapore than the local's.

 

Lol. I reaaally doubt that.

“Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.†- Jeremy Clarkson

 

http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photos/3/1279813/10237619/IMG_0625-vi.jpg[

Posted
Mixing 2T with 4 stroke bike won't really work. My dad rides a wave and tried this for sometime. Only resulting in the bike breaking down. Mech dissassembled the engine and showed my dad the unburned 2T deposited inside.

 

Just use your normal good 4T engine oil.

 

Ratio must be correct. Too much will cause burning problem.

Honda wave small bike. I think only 4L full tank. Ratio only 10ml/full tank. That only 1 spoon full. Ask you dad to add less ride faster to burnt out all the deposit.

After ready the topic. I will try and give reply.

Ride Safely

Posted

hey...2t ...do not burn away into thin air..

it leaves carbon deposit behind...

just check out the 2 stroker thread...at regular intervals someon would ask ...which shop does decarbonise exhaust..

i love my ezzyoiler

experience the miracle...

where chain cleaning is history...

call 91797182..

:cheers::cheer:

Posted
hey...2t ...do not burn away into thin air..

it leaves carbon deposit behind...

just check out the 2 stroker thread...at regular intervals someon would ask ...which shop does decarbonise exhaust..

 

hahaha, i don want my end can to be burned man, just wrap new sticker

21 dec 2009 - Class 2b

21 feb 2010 - NSR 150SP FT7058L (SOLD on 23rd dec 2010)

08 oct 2010 - Class 3

12 Jan 2011 - Gsxr 400RR FM9135X (SOLD on 5th Mar 2011)

27 Jan 2011 - Class 2a

16 mar 2011 - X1-R FBE1069X (SOLD on 30th Sept 2013)

07 June 2013 - Class 2

05 Oct 2013 - Gsxr600 k8

 

1377324_10151734614953002_668866713_n.jpg

Posted

Carbon deposit is depend on the rider.

How the ratio of the oil mix( too much have problem).

If the rider always ride high speed eg 100km/h on long distance . Most carbon will be out of the exhaust bike.

If rider only ride 50km/h on short distance then that would be a problem. Because carbon built up.

So all depend on the rider bike and biker must have good link.

Rider must know how the bike work and if bike have problem will give signal like abnormal sound/vibration....

and rider must know how to interpret the sign of problem give by bike( because bike cannot tell you in English/human language).

Is called Machine and Man. Without Machine also problem without man also problem because machine need man to take care.

But too bad most rider don't know the bike work. Even simple change engine oil and plug also dont understand.

Ride Safely

Posted (edited)
Ratio must be correct. Too much will cause burning problem.

Honda wave small bike. I think only 4L full tank. Ratio only 10ml/full tank. That only 1 spoon full. Ask you dad to add less ride faster to burnt out all the deposit.

After ready the topic. I will try and give reply.

 

Yes you are right.

Metal_Heart's clever dad might just add 2T like he did before to the 2T bike without measuring ratio and resulted in wet plug and carbon deposit.

The correct petrol:2T ratio should be from 500:1 to 1000:1, maximum 2ml of 2T for every 1 litre petrol.

Always add the number of 2ml of 2T according to the number of litres of petrol pumped.

Edited by byte77
Posted (edited)

It reminds me of the japan fukushima nuclear crisis.

Initially the backup diesel generator's connector does not fit 100% to the cooling system's power contact.

As a temporary solution for emergency, the worker should whack the generator's connector and forcefully connect them up.

But japanese always follows SOP, cannot and dare not think out of box.

So they were unable to restore power to the cooling system and the reactors just gone like that.

Edited by byte77
Posted
Carbon deposit is depend on the rider.

How the ratio of the oil mix( too much have problem).

If the rider always ride high speed eg 100km/h on long distance . Most carbon will be out of the exhaust bike.

If rider only ride 50km/h on short distance then that would be a problem. Because carbon built up.

So all depend on the rider bike and biker must have good link.

Rider must know how the bike work and if bike have problem will give signal like abnormal sound/vibration....

and rider must know how to interpret the sign of problem give by bike( because bike cannot tell you in English/human language).

Is called Machine and Man. Without Machine also problem without man also problem because machine need man to take care.

But too bad most rider don't know the bike work. Even simple change engine oil and plug also dont understand.

 

No wonder they told me to ride 2 strokes hard.

Posted

actually i tried adding 2T into my car before. no real difference if you ask me, neither did it foul my spark plugs. what i believe works however, is hard driving your bike/car once in a while, let your vehicle "exercise" a bit.

When touring, its usually the rider that give way first before the bike itself.

 

got box got tour.

Posted

My opinion is that try at your own risk.

 

Post #20 states that some oversea driver have tried and it works. It also give a break down of the different 2T grade characteristics.

 

But it is a wrong reference. Why. The whole post #20 is talking about diesel 4 stroke! not a petrol 4 stroke!

 

Please got to wikipedia to see and understand more how these 2 engine are different.

 

In a diesel engine, The fuel route is from tank to pump to fuel line and then to injectors. Straight into the combustion chamber. Inlet valve is for fresh air only.

 

In a 4T engine, the Fuel route is from tank to pump to fuel line to injectors (EFI) or to carb.

Then to inlet manifore, passing thru inlet valve, then to combustion chamber

 

 

One will ask why.

 

Just a simple fact. Carbon formation.

 

When you overhaul a 4 stroke petrol engine. Even if the engine lifespan was dedicated to strict routine maintenance, strict usage of expensive premium grade petrol. You will still find carbon deposits on the valve stem.

 

Take some 2T, coat a aluminium tray lightly. heat it and u will see the oil actually carbonised. Our home toaster oven is a perfect example. coat it with oil some more. heat it again, the carbon layer will increase. Just at a simple temperature of 120 degree for 5 mins

 

An engine during combustion, the temperature in the combustion chamber will be at least 150 degree.

 

The second problem. Fuel air ratio. and carb(if you bike is running on one).

 

The correct FA ration should be 1 part of petrol to 14.7 part of air. If you introduce some 2 T into the fuel. The air fuel will be out. U are basically running lean. Again not good for long term unless u retune the carb or reprogram the efi.

 

Carb. This one is abit interesting alot of 2 stroker rider will tell me, If you run ur 2 stroker on premix. do shake your tank before starting the engine, especially after a few days of non riding. What this means that 2 T although mix pretty well. But after being stagnant for a few days, the 2 T will actually seperate from the petrol.

 

2T will not bond to petrol for long. It will seperate.

 

This will clog ur pilot jet if enough 2 T fills the float bowl. (especially applicable to 4T CV carb like the keihin CVK series and the walbro 7MF.)

 

Slide carb is more resistance to 2T clogs thou. eg Mikuni TM series.

 

With excessive carbon on the inlet valve. What is the outcome? Overtime. it will wear out ur valve seat, valve guide.

Obstruct the inlet, causing fuel vapour condensation. This will result in combustion efficiency, more carbon but up in the cumbustion chamber.

 

This is what I see.

 

Anyone can disagree with me of the post above. U can always try and add 2T to try and see if the engine will run smoother or will it wear out faster.

 

It's not my bike anyway.

Posted (edited)
This one is abit interesting alot of 2 stroker rider will tell me, If you run ur 2 stroker on premix. do shake your tank before starting the engine, especially after a few days of non riding. What this means that 2 T although mix pretty well. But after being stagnant for a few days, the 2 T will actually seperate from the petrol.

 

2T will not bond to petrol for long. It will seperate.

 

If you just burn 100% 2T oil without petrol, of course it will leave a carbon trace because it contains additives to lubricate.

Now what we recommend is the 1:500 to 1:1000 for 2T : petrol ratio.

You can try this ratio and see if the carbon deposit is still there.

Just like our body needs salt, but just eating salt itself in large quantity without anything else can kill.

 

Do you know how rich the normal 2T oil ratio for 2-stroke bikes? from 1:32 up to 1:40, yes it is so rich.

At 1:500 to 1:1000 ratio will the blended 2T separated? I doubt so.

 

http://www.dirt-bike-tips-and-pics.com/2-stroke-fuel-ratios.html

A lot of riders run their (2-stroke) bikes at 40:1. If you aren't pinning it everywhere you will get away with this. Just keep this in mind: You will not damage your engine by mixing too much oil with your gas. The worst it might do is foul plugs, although a gunked up carburetor or incorrect carby settings are a far more likely cause of fowled plugs and a smokey exhaust. However, if you forget to mix oil in at all, or consistently don't use enough you risk wearing out the engine prematurely or seizing it.

Edited by byte77
Posted

Let me share my experience after try add 2T into my 4 stroke bike engine.

I add about 1.5ml/litre of petrol. ( one full cup/cap of normal 2T bottle is about 15ml)

Never adjust any setting just add the 2T. After run about 300km. My finding

1. Shift gear more smooth

2. Engine noise and vibration reduce

3. Carbon deposit in plug reduce and cleaner( take out and check)

4. RPM running higher about 200rpm when idle after running hot.

5. Easy to electric start and also easy to kick start manually.

 

Petrol consumption will give update after. Average out few tank of petrol.

 

Those want to try.Precaution

1. Don't add to much 2T if not sure add less 2T rather than add too much.

2. Try to run the engine ( try it on expressway more than 20km at speed 90km or more- to clean out all the carbon deposit). After run for 200km or more can see if the performance of the bike improve or not.

Ride Safely

Posted

Older bikes will benefit from adding 2T to the petrol to assist in top end lubrication. It's quite common procedure overseas when running classics and vintage bikes.

 

These machines don't foul, sieze, or explode just because there is a 0 point something percent of 2T in their tanks. They do run nicer.

 

@Stylo should be commended for taking his own initiative to test out the concept and posting very well organised information.

 

Let me share my experience after try add 2T into my 4 stroke bike engine.

I add about 1.5ml/litre of petrol. ( one full cup/cap of normal 2T bottle is about 15ml)

Never adjust any setting just add the 2T. After run about 300km. My finding

1. Shift gear more smooth

2. Engine noise and vibration reduce

3. Carbon deposit in plug reduce and cleaner( take out and check)

4. RPM running higher about 200rpm when idle after running hot.

5. Easy to electric start and also easy to kick start manually.

 

Petrol consumption will give update after. Average out few tank of petrol.

 

Those want to try.Precaution

1. Don't add to much 2T if not sure add less 2T rather than add too much.

2. Try to run the engine ( try it on expressway more than 20km at speed 90km or more- to clean out all the carbon deposit). After run for 200km or more can see if the performance of the bike improve or not.

 

I look forward to more scientific information on your road testing. Go ahead and bust some myths :)

 

@byte77 as well posts some very good driver-end reviews of the "procedure"!

Posted

gentlemen...

it is time to read on this topic..black death...maybe it has nothing to do with your venture..

 

the thing to remember is what happens when 2t is added to your crankcase engine oil..??? when u add 2t in petrol...some will eventually end up in the oil sump.

i love my ezzyoiler

experience the miracle...

where chain cleaning is history...

call 91797182..

:cheers::cheer:

Posted (edited)

Putting 2T in the crankcase and trying to use it as lubricating oil does not work for obvious reasons, as 2T is not designed to be a long-term lubricant.

 

Black Death is completely unreleated to 2T - http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

 

It's what happens when sub-standard quality oil is used in an engine temperature too high for its specification - or in the case of a VAG (Volkswagen Audi Group) turbocharged engine, oil breaks down due to excessive turbo temperatures.

 

The use of 2T for top end lubrication potentially reduces operating temperatures marginally if some areas of the valvetrain are causing friction (by virtue of reducing whatever is causing the friction in the first place). This would perhaps contribute to the "smoother revving engines" experienced by some riders and drivers running 2T in their 4 strokers.

 

Note also that the more expensive fuels today claim to have "friction reducing" benefits. If you're scared of fouling or "Black Death" myths just spend extra on Esso 98 or V-Power. Where does it reduce friction? The top end obviously, where fuel contacts the valves. About the same thing.

 

As for the 2T fouling spark plugs - that is yet another myth perpetuated by the uninformed. There are a number of very reliable two strokers in the market out there. Despite burning 2T millions of strokes a day, a RX-Z and Y125Z doesn't suffer from much in the way of plug fouling problems so long as the spark plug is allowed to reach self-cleaning temperature (yes, riding hard increases reliability :p). Mine lasted 6 years of abuse with little in the way of maintenance, with yearly spark plug changes.

 

FW1978E is still on the road today and quite happy last time I saw it.

Edited by Pandora's Kitten :3
Posted

adding 2t in petrol in 4 stroke engines...unless you have a perfect seal between the combustion chamber and the crankcase...the ingress of burnt lube/ 2t /petrol to the crankcase is going to happen..

the poossibility of a 2 strke engine is lesser posibility as they are designed diffrently from a 4 stroke engine...

 

so a degrADTION OF ENGINE LUBE IS ALWAYS THERE..

so pay attention to your eo condition in your new venture...

i love my ezzyoiler

experience the miracle...

where chain cleaning is history...

call 91797182..

:cheers::cheer:

Posted

go ahead...and enjoy the ride...

and have a big smile..when it is time for a overhaul..

i love my ezzyoiler

experience the miracle...

where chain cleaning is history...

call 91797182..

:cheers::cheer:

Posted (edited)

Ezzyoiler is a theorist.

hokkien dialect has a proverb: (see lung ah ga kia)the deceased argues stubbornly such that he rises up again.

Edited by byte77
Posted
Older bikes will benefit from adding 2T to the petrol to assist in top end lubrication. It's quite common procedure overseas when running classics and vintage bikes.

 

These machines don't foul, sieze, or explode just because there is a 0 point something percent of 2T in their tanks. They do run nicer.

 

@Stylo should be commended for taking his own initiative to test out the concept and posting very well organised information.

 

 

 

I look forward to more scientific information on your road testing. Go ahead and bust some myths :)

 

@byte77 as well posts some very good driver-end reviews of the "procedure"!

 

Thanks. Hope my info will help other biker/car.

Confirm the engine run smoother.

 

Ezzyoiler is a theorist.

hokkien dialect has a proverb: (see lung ah ga kia)the deceased argues stubbornly such that he rises up again.

 

I think Ezzyoiler selling accesories like engine oil, octane booster. If we find out better product which is cheaper and easy to buy. His business go bankrupt. That why he strongly keep on give negative comment.

2T is cheap compare to fuel addictive(octane booster).

 

I have try many type of engine oil. Even petroleum base oil SAE30 and SAE40 for the engine oil.

The result of SAE30 really smooth but break down very fast about half like of synthetic oil from my own testing( how I know because of the shifting gear smooth or not. SAE40 not so smooth more like 20W-40 grade. Shift gear not that smooth but can run.

Actually I recommend those want to flush engine use SAE30. Then run the bike about 200~1000km(depend on user like) and change back to engine oil. But I recommend use for 1000km don't waste the oil.

If use only 200km flushing oil out will be very clean. SAE30 also very cheap.

Ride Safely

Posted
Thanks. Hope my info will help other biker/car.

Confirm the engine run smoother.

 

 

 

I think Ezzyoiler selling accesories like engine oil, octane booster. If we find out better product which is cheaper and easy to buy. His business go bankrupt. That why he strongly keep on give negative comment.

2T is cheap compare to fuel addictive(octane booster).

 

I have try many type of engine oil. Even petroleum base oil SAE30 and SAE40 for the engine oil.

The result of SAE30 really smooth but break down very fast about half like of synthetic oil from my own testing( how I know because of the shifting gear smooth or not. SAE40 not so smooth more like 20W-40 grade. Shift gear not that smooth but can run.

Actually I recommend those want to flush engine use SAE30. Then run the bike about 200~1000km(depend on user like) and change back to engine oil. But I recommend use for 1000km don't waste the oil.

If use only 200km flushing oil out will be very clean. SAE30 also very cheap.

 

What I have started using is 1L of pure palm cooking oil + 2L of Motul 20W-50.

I read that the quality of pure palm cooking oil is like 0W.

So far so good.

Posted (edited)
What I have started using is 1L of pure palm cooking oil + 2L of Motul 20W-50.

I read that the quality of pure palm cooking oil is like 0W.

So far so good.

 

What bike you using? Wet or dry clutch? How long have you been using this configuration? Details pls! Because i did consider using pure palm oil in my bike, but was never sure whether it was safe for a bike with a wet clutch.

Edited by crazydj

[2005 Yamaha YBR 125]

 

http://i945.photobucket.com/albums/ad291/crazydj_sgbikes/WarningMagicalFuelPenguins2.jpg?t=1261137815

Posted
What bike you using? Wet or dry clutch? How long have you been using this configuration? Details pls.

 

Suzuki impulse 400. wet clutch. Just started for 2 weeks, about 600km.

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