Hard Break in VS Manual Break in

[Non Stop Racing]

gathering all owner who break in before regardless in any class of bike.

 

which method did you all use ?

 

hard break in - http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

manual break in- methods from your original bike manual.

 

i have both review from users that report manual break in is just fine.

 

i also have frens who did the hard break in and feel a difference when trying similar model on others bike.

 

so claim by some bike shop owners from bukit merah.

 

pro of hard break in :

more strength compare to manual break in

'easier' to gain bhp while changing accessories(slip on,full system)

well seal rings

cleaner inner component engine parts.

 

cons of hard break in :

engine seems to be noiser

fuel consumtion will increase compare to stock manual break in

100 000km after,the gasket is required to be changed.

 

 

pro of manual break in : ????????

 

 

cons of manual break in : ????????

 

any one with views or related information are welcome to share..... tks

[hachi]

Have anyone here ever wonder how they tested the new assembled bikes from factory? Do they pack the bike without testing?

Or they rev it to the red line and make sure the power is within spec then pack the bike?

IMO. whether hard or soft run in really doesnt matter cos even new bikes have power difference between them so how do u really conclude hard ones are better than soft ones?

Just that they may belong to upper range of the spec...If they can rev the bike till red line without damaging before packing I am sure all bikes can take the beating out of the box...

[stsoh]

here's my thought about this:

manufacturer's recommended soft break-in = intent to keep bike for long period (more than 5 yrs) with regular services.

 

hard break-in = engine highly stressed, don't intent to keep the bike for more than 2 yrs, generally more engine overhaul due to extreme use.

[Refugee]

but frankly speaking, nobody can confirm for sure if a bike on a soft break in can last longer then hard break in bikes.... unless they ride the same bike twice...

[william_liu]

For me personally, if I had to run-in a new bike, I will take the middle ground:

 

i.e: Don't over-pamper the bike by die-die following the speed limit set in the manual (or worse, 'run-in' on the expressways...), but at the same time, not to red-line the bike as per hard run-in method.

[panclanrider]

I guess the "medium break" is the more preferred method adopt here in Singapore...

 

:thumb:

[Wolfener]

 

hard break in - http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

 

 

I think the question is whether you would want to risk your newly bought baby and believe in some US kids who might be out to play a prank on everyone. Or would you perfer to trust in your bike manufacturer's recommendation and play it safe.

 

 

Cheers!!

[Hong88]

guess its true la..hard run in does help

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67476

[supafly]

4 me.... its a mixture of both.. hhahahaha! becos i hear alot of different ways to run in... until i whatever la.. hahahaha! how is d method of hard run in u guys use?

[darren_soh86]

juz ride normalli lo.. juz dun red rev the engine n u will be fine.. besides i tink now all engines are run-in once in the factory alreadi.. they advice u to run-in juz to be on the safe side..

[NorthPole]

I been breaking in according to manual for my bikes... a Yamaha TZM150, a Honda Phantom TA150 and a SYM Magic 110RR. For my new CBF150 which I will collect on friday... I will use the hard breaking in... coz I need the extra power from it. Overtaking and getting away from tailgaters on the expressway require fast acceleration from 80-90km/h to 110-120km/h. And the CBF150 reportedly have a top speed of 110-120km/h... so I may need the extra boost.

 

My plan... change engine oil to mineral immediately at motortiam.

Run in 50km. Change engine oil again. Find a downslope to... "Find a long downhill stretch, get in top at about 50mph (80kph) and wait till the bike's pulling ahead of the engine, then whack the throttle open. When it starts to pull, shut it again. That causes a vacuum in the crankcase, pushes the piston rings against the cylinder walls and helps them bed in."

 

50-500km. Change engine oil again. Ride normally without exceeding 80km/h at all times except when the opportunity arise to whack it for bedding in.

 

500km-1000km. Change engine oil again. WHACK AH!!!

 

1000km. Switch to synthetic oil liao.

[Non Stop Racing]

hey tks HONG 88 ! tts a gd link but most of us fail to see it.

 

actually theres a kind soul who give me advice on Pm,he has experience on this matters but decline to post on thread for some reasons....

 

quote

 

'' Okie,

here's how I did mine.

First 37km - my hard break-in as per the Mototune method. In my case, I FULLY WARM up my bike, rode slowly for the first 15km from the shop in Eunos to the Pasir Panjang sub-highway before I began the hard run-in. Used nearly the whole stretch.

 

The next day, I changed oil & filter, still using mineral.

Afterwhich, I followed my Suzuki manual.

Now here's the interesting part. Suzuki simply says for the first 800km, keep it below 9000 RPM. I used intervals of 600kms instead, as recommended by Mototune. Following the manual method of breaking in, I'm supposed to keep below 5K, 10K and 12K RPM. The manual also states not to maintain too low a speed, instead to freely rev within the RPM range. To me, this is the clearest indication that Mototune method has some rational behind it. Coz even the manual tells me not to cruise at a fixed low speed but to let it rev within the range to seat the rings. '' quote

 

 

n btw can do some check on hard break in on internet search engine..u find mostly all link to motoman. i guess hes not some kind of PUNK trying to ruin ppl engine but do read carefully all the advise... regards.

[keratsini]

Do follow your Owner's manual. The manufacturer guarantees it's products provided certain rules are followed. They have spend MILLIONS in research and improvement of their products. Please stop listening all these couchi-couranh (I hope I got it right) with all these nonsense for hard and semi run-in.

 

The engines are NOT tested or fired-up at the assembly. That's the reason the manual recomends the run-in. Also is for safety because some screws might be loose. It is safer to spot the deffects at low speeds than top speeds. Could go on for ever but those who understand what I'm trying to say, they will know what to do.

 

For the rest, please read your manuals.

[WildCard]

Do follow your Owner's manual. The manufacturer guarantees it's products provided certain rules are followed. They have spend MILLIONS in research and improvement of their products. Please stop listening all these couchi-couranh (I hope I got it right) with all these nonsense for hard and semi run-in.

 

The engines are NOT tested or fired-up at the assembly. That's the reason the manual recomends the run-in. Also is for safety because some screws might be loose. It is safer to spot the deffects at low speeds than top speeds. Could go on for ever but those who understand what I'm trying to say, they will know what to do.

 

For the rest, please read your manuals.

 

Just 2 curious questions...

1. If the engines are not fired up or test at assembly, then how does the factory who assembled it knows the engine is assembled correctly with no parts missing? I sincerely hope bike manufacturers are not living under the assumption that what they are building will work perfectly when it reaches customers without having to test whether it works or not. That's a pefect recipe for a major disaster, bankruptcy & class-action lawsuit.

 

2. If the engines are not tested at the factory, how does the manufacturer knows that the batch of engines released is performing to industrial specs? I'm not talking about technical specs as advertised. I'm talking about standards such as SAE or even EURO emissions compliance. Without even firing up the engine once, how can a factory be sure its bikes passes the necessary industrial regulations?

[stsoh]

in general, all newly assembled engines r tested two rounds.

first at the engine assembly factory.

second at the bike factory after it is full assembled b4 packaging.

 

these tests r generally to their maximum capacity as in their specifications.

 

repair/overhaul engines with new sets of piston rings/rehorn cylinder liners by local shop.

owners need to do their own break-in whichever methods they like.

 

new bikes in general do not have to do hard break-in.

tat's why manufacturer recommends go-ease on first thousand km.

manufacturer already did the hard break-in.

so why still want to do more stress.

no two bikes of the same make produce the same amount of power output.

there is a margin of tolerances plus/minus a few hp.

[keratsini]

Just 2 curious questions...

1. If the engines are not fired up or test at assembly, then how does the factory who assembled it knows the engine is assembled correctly with no parts missing? I sincerely hope bike manufacturers are not living under the assumption that what they are building will work perfectly when it reaches customers without having to test whether it works or not. That's a pefect recipe for a major disaster, bankruptcy & class-action lawsuit.

 

2. If the engines are not tested at the factory, how does the manufacturer knows that the batch of engines released is performing to industrial specs? I'm not talking about technical specs as advertised. I'm talking about standards such as SAE or even EURO emissions compliance. Without even firing up the engine once, how can a factory be sure its bikes passes the necessary industrial regulations?

 

 

The simple answer is "NO". Bikes are shipped dry (not even a drop of oil in the engine), if you ever bought brand new bike you should know that. Have you ever asked any bike shop to fire-up a brand new engine? They will refuse because the bike is "dry", not even the battery is connected. Do not get confused with cars. Cars are moved on their own power from factory to their final destinations. Bikes are shipped in a box 80-90% assembled. Only the prototype is tested. Have you ever heard about "re-call"? That's the reason they are recalling, because some batch of the production was not to the standard. To give an example Michelin is recalling the front tyre of 2CT (unfortunately I'm affected too). There are plenty of other examples on cars and bikes re-calls. A factory makes sure that all its products passed the necessary regulations but producing identical product to the prototype.

 

Have you ever read a manual, in which they are asking you, before you ride the bike, you should check that all the screws are tighten? On the same manual they will recommend you how to run-in the engine that will allow its parts to settle properly. Have you even noticed that the manual recommends to run-in the engine on viarable speeds and not contsant RPMs? Why they need to ask you to do that if every single engine/bike is tested?

[stsoh]

The simple answer is "NO". Bikes are shipped dry (not even a drop of oil in the engine), if you ever bought brand new bike you should know that. Have you ever asked any bike shop to fire-up a brand new engine? They will refuse because the bike is "dry", not even the battery is connected........

i think u misunderstood.

b4 packaging/shipping at a bike factory, they r run with perservation fluid n drained.

there is always a warning sign b4 starting up a bike to fillup with engine oil n to connect battery for reasons tat it might be in storage for months or years.

[WildCard]

Yes, I have bought a brand new bike before.

Yes, you are right that new bikes don't come with engine oil.

But no, its not becoz its shipped bone-dry but simply becoz the oil is drained out after the bike has completed all testing & inspection and is ready for packing.

 

http://www.madehow.com/Volume-4/Motorcycle.html

Quality Control

At the end of the assembly line, quality control inspectors undertake a visual inspection of the motorcycle's painted finish and fit of parts. The quality control inspectors also feel the motorcycles with gloved hands to detect any bumps or defects in the finish. Each motorcycle is tested on a dynamometer. Inspectors accelerate the motorcycle from 0-60 mph. During the acceleration, the "dyno" tests for acceleration and braking, shifting, wheel alignment, headlight and taillight alignment and function, horn function, and exhaust emissions. The finished product must meet international standards for performance and safety. After the dyno test, a final inspection is made of the completed motorcycle. The motorcycles are boxed in crates and shipped to customers across North America and around the world.

[keratsini]

I'm not aware of the credibility of such webside but I will assume that. what they say is correct (personally I don't believe is true). Does this give us the reason not to follow manufacturer's recommedation and follow anyone's nonsense?

 

I have personal experience of what I'm saying. I own a Kawasaki ZXR750H (1990 model). Following the manual to the letter and till now I have absolutely no problem. I do the same on my bike here is Singapore.

[WildCard]

Nope,

People who asked me whether to use hard run-in or normal run-in, I say its a free world and you have a free choice. Do what you feel you want to do.

 

So I would say it lies with individual choice.

[Aie]

This topic had been hotly debated on before in the Sportsbike Section. Click on the link to know more...

Do You Know How To Break-In Your New Engine?

[WildCard]

They know Aie.

Fortunately, the discussion here is much more mature & objective and I'm sure everyone here enjoys it.