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Recommended Posts

Guest motofreak
Posted
anyone interested in buying hyperpro rear shock spring - $200, matrix fork spring kit - $200, carbon fibre side panier - $150, carbon fibre front mudguard - $250 just leave a pm

 

Side pannier? U must be referring to the side panel bro.

Posted
No I not upgrading. I giving up riding. Working at raffles does not help as well. Cars dun kill me, the ERP will. Haha

 

Raffles :faint: ERP evrywhere Sia..Betta Park(bike or car) & RiDe(MRT) LikE OnE Of My FreN Do..:angel:

169383_451657501512609_265105153_o.jpg?dl=1
Posted
any second hand gsr parts/accs for sale? hnb rack, air filter etc...

 

motovasion sliders???

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=2141795&id=623245868&ref=fbx_album&fbid=95772430868#!/photo.php?pid=2141795&id=623245868&ref=fbx_album&fbid=95772430868
Guest motofreak
Posted
motovasion sliders???

 

Y do u need GSR sliders when u riding a Busa? Its totally a different length. Plus some sliders u may even have to cut a hole in your fairing. Get TP crashbars instead for your busa. :cheeky:

Posted
Y do u need GSR sliders when u riding a Busa? Its totally a different length. Plus some sliders u may even have to cut a hole in your fairing. Get TP crashbars instead for your busa. :cheeky:

 

I think he mean that he want to sell his motivation sliders.
haha premature ejaculation in action.
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/7100/vfrsiggy.jpg
Posted
Y do u need GSR sliders when u riding a Busa? Its totally a different length. Plus some sliders u may even have to cut a hole in your fairing. Get TP crashbars instead for your busa. :cheeky:

 

Yaaaa wat PIE meant he selling his MOTOVATION slider bah.hehe,btw heard from this indian guy,having a slider for a BUSA will increase the damage to the body werks,the fairing itself can take the damage.hehehe:angel:

http://media.techeblog.com/elephant//ul/5966-450x-ims_2.jpg

 

This Ain't No SaTellitE Navi..It FraGS You The 2mile RadIus

Posted

Dear All,

 

Encounter this problem recently.

After adjusting the clutch cable play, sometimes when riding, when changing gear, engine tend to stall. happens once or twice for a trip.

 

has checked with the technican at HKL, he says maybe the idling rpm too low, after adjusting, problem still happens.

 

Anyone knows how to troubeshoot or where the problem lies?

 

Thanks.

Riding a gsr600

Posted
Dear All,

 

Encounter this problem recently.

After adjusting the clutch cable play, sometimes when riding, when changing gear, engine tend to stall. happens once or twice for a trip.

 

has checked with the technican at HKL, he says maybe the idling rpm too low, after adjusting, problem still happens.

 

Anyone knows how to troubeshoot or where the problem lies?

 

Thanks.

Riding a gsr600

 

Wanna know how much is your idiling now? Manual says 1.1k to 1.3k. You may wanna adjust to that specs. Try adjusting around 1.2k.

* Suzuki GSR750

----------------------------

http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-metric2/196279.png

Posted
Dear All,

 

Encounter this problem recently.

After adjusting the clutch cable play, sometimes when riding, when changing gear, engine tend to stall. happens once or twice for a trip.

 

has checked with the technican at HKL, he says maybe the idling rpm too low, after adjusting, problem still happens.

 

Anyone knows how to troubeshoot or where the problem lies?

 

Thanks.

Riding a gsr600

 

How long did you clutch in when to change your gear? Try not to clutch in too long until the rpm goes down till 1k-2k. Your bike may stall when your engine is not fully warmed up.

 

Tell us more details about when did your engine stall. Example, it happens only when you start riding? Or it happens after you have rode for xxx mins. At which gear did your bike stalls? What is temp at the indicator when it stalls?

 

Like I said, try not to clutch in too long to change gear, see if the problem still persist? I said this because I have experienced such case, however mine is GSR400, so I am not sure if it will solve your problem. Gd luck!

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p141/chrischan76/CyrixRacingTeam2.jpg
Posted
How long did you clutch in when to change your gear? Try not to clutch in too long until the rpm goes down till 1k-2k. Your bike may stall when your engine is not fully warmed up.

 

Tell us more details about when did your engine stall. Example, it happens only when you start riding? Or it happens after you have rode for xxx mins. At which gear did your bike stalls? What is temp at the indicator when it stalls?

 

Like I said, try not to clutch in too long to change gear, see if the problem still persist? I said this because I have experienced such case, however mine is GSR400, so I am not sure if it will solve your problem. Gd luck!

 

actually i clutch in and change gear like normal speed. quite fast i mean.

it happens at any time but mostly when juz started riding within 15mins on starting engine. gear, 1 to 2, 2 to 3 mostly at lower gear. didnt take note of temp.

think my rpm is too low. saw the tachometer idling at around 900rpm. guess need to adjust.

 

Thanks.

Posted
actually i clutch in and change gear like normal speed. quite fast i mean.

it happens at any time but mostly when juz started riding within 15mins on starting engine. gear, 1 to 2, 2 to 3 mostly at lower gear. didnt take note of temp.

think my rpm is too low. saw the tachometer idling at around 900rpm. guess need to adjust.

 

Thanks.

 

Normal idling should be around at 1k mark. That is based on GSR400, not sure abt GSR600. There are others riding GSR600 here, so they can tell you the actual ideal idling rpm. Best if you go down to their DIY session! :thumb:

 

If you said it happened after at least 5mins of riding, usually the engine should be warmed by then. Just to share my experience, if I didn't warm my bike and straight away wack it at high rpm... then when I clutch in, my bike will stall. From those experiences, I learnt that if I warm my bike to at least 50 Degree before moving off and start wacking at high rpm, the stalls disappear. I'm not a technical expert in bike, but I am sure there is an explanation to why the bike stall if not properly warmed up.

 

Hope that others can help you in one or another way to solve your problem.

 

Cheers!

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p141/chrischan76/CyrixRacingTeam2.jpg
Posted
Normal idling should be around at 1k mark. That is based on GSR400, not sure abt GSR600. There are others riding GSR600 here, so they can tell you the actual ideal idling rpm. Best if you go down to their DIY session! :thumb:

 

If you said it happened after at least 5mins of riding, usually the engine should be warmed by then. Just to share my experience, if I didn't warm my bike and straight away wack it at high rpm... then when I clutch in, my bike will stall. From those experiences, I learnt that if I warm my bike to at least 50 Degree before moving off and start wacking at high rpm, the stalls disappear. I'm not a technical expert in bike, but I am sure there is an explanation to why the bike stall if not properly warmed up.

 

Hope that others can help you in one or another way to solve your problem.

 

Cheers!

 

Did a check juz now. For 600cc is 1300 +/- 100r/min. For 400cc is 1200 +/- 100r/min idling RPM. (If i remember correctly from the japs manual). Going lower than that is ones preference.

 

For me its 1.2k idling. Can never go wrong with that. People taking about if idling too high will waste petrol. I will like to ask these people back of how many minutes in a day does someone goes in idling mode? hours? hahaha How much can it suck (Pardon the language)?

 

Added Info from the manual/book,

 

Heat Range:

Check spark plug heat range by observing electrode colour. If the electrode of the spark plug is wet appearing or dark colour, replace spark plug with hotter type one. If it is white or glazed appearing, replace the spark plug with colder type one.

* Suzuki GSR750

----------------------------

http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-metric2/196279.png

Posted
Dear All,

 

Encounter this problem recently.

After adjusting the clutch cable play, sometimes when riding, when changing gear, engine tend to stall. happens once or twice for a trip.

 

has checked with the technican at HKL, he says maybe the idling rpm too low, after adjusting, problem still happens.

 

Anyone knows how to troubeshoot or where the problem lies?

 

Thanks.

Riding a gsr600

 

When you mentioned you adjust cable play, what did you do exactly?

Did you set the biting point to be further front or back?

Meaning is, when you pull in your clutch, is the biting point midway to fully pulling the lever or when almost fully pulled in?

 

Setting the biting point to be too close to fully pulled position can cause this problem to happen.

How?

Simple. Your clutch is still 'engaged' when you try to change gear, thus causing the engine to seize and stall.

Bring your bike to another shop (please avoid 3-letter shops in general) and ask them to help readjust your clutch biting point position.

Ask them to adjust it to your preference but not too close to the fully pulled position. Tell them something like 3/4 way before your clutch lever is fully pulled.

There are 2 locations where the adjustment is needed. At the clutch lever itself and at left side of your engine near the speedo sensor.

 

As a reference, I tend to prefer having the biting point midway (midway as in halfway pulling in the clutch lever from open to fully pulled) as I tend to squeeze city traffic a lot and need the fine-tune feel.

I have ever set the biting position too close to the fully-pulled position and get very unnerving gear changes and occasional stalls....

Posted
When you mentioned you adjust cable play, what did you do exactly?

Did you set the biting point to be further front or back?

Meaning is, when you pull in your clutch, is the biting point midway to fully pulling the lever or when almost fully pulled in?

 

Setting the biting point to be too close to fully pulled position can cause this problem to happen.

How?

Simple. Your clutch is still 'engaged' when you try to change gear, thus causing the engine to seize and stall.

Bring your bike to another shop (please avoid 3-letter shops in general) and ask them to help readjust your clutch biting point position.

Ask them to adjust it to your preference but not too close to the fully pulled position. Tell them something like 3/4 way before your clutch lever is fully pulled.

There are 2 locations where the adjustment is needed. At the clutch lever itself and at left side of your engine near the speedo sensor.

 

As a reference, I tend to prefer having the biting point midway (midway as in halfway pulling in the clutch lever from open to fully pulled) as I tend to squeeze city traffic a lot and need the fine-tune feel.

I have ever set the biting position too close to the fully-pulled position and get very unnerving gear changes and occasional stalls....

 

Yup, adjust clutch play is adjusting the bitting point. now, it's more towards the middle. quite ok. Think most likely it's cause by the low idling. will go to a shop to readjust the idling.

Thanks for all the info.

Posted
Yup, adjust clutch play is adjusting the bitting point. now, it's more towards the middle. quite ok. Think most likely it's cause by the low idling. will go to a shop to readjust the idling.

Thanks for all the info.

 

Actually can do that yourself. No need to go bikeshop. Its simple to do.

* Suzuki GSR750

----------------------------

http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-metric2/196279.png

Guest motofreak
Posted
Actually can do that yourself. No need to go bikeshop. Its simple to do.

 

Tot they even teach it at driving centers? Its in the book rite?

Posted
Yup, adjust clutch play is adjusting the bitting point. now, it's more towards the middle. quite ok. Think most likely it's cause by the low idling. will go to a shop to readjust the idling.

Thanks for all the info.

 

Right, For this issue, you can forget bout the temp for min, Lets concetrate on the first encounter the "CLUTCH" My guess is the Bitting is out of range when u try to engage gear, My advice is that u need to adjust the clutch & the idling again to it's proper setting & not to the comfort it's rider...

 

Cheerio....:p

 

Actually can do that yourself. No need to go bikeshop. Its simple to do.

 

Right, the GSR600 Left side has no side cover, So it's Easy peasy, Heat up the Rhino for about 3mins Which Mean the Temp will Be around 75'c -80'c, on the left side use two finger find a small knob with a spring attach to it, slowly turn the sucker clock-wise bit-by-bit & watch the magic begin, RPM will move slightly up BUT give it 2 Secs Delay then u can get the right Reading, Then get it around 1.2k to 1.3k, Just ram it a Lil' Bit & there u Go....

 

Cheerio....:p

p.s - Be sure to have Adult Supervision around while hadling big machines...

Thank You & this means You...

 

actually i clutch in and change gear like normal speed. quite fast i mean.

it happens at any time but mostly when juz started riding within 15mins on starting engine. gear, 1 to 2, 2 to 3 mostly at lower gear. didnt take note of temp.

think my rpm is too low. saw the tachometer idling at around 900rpm. guess need to adjust.

 

Thanks.

 

I reckon u do mate, Before anything else like the clutch will have uneven wearness or the Gears will have chipped tooth like mine...hehehehee

Now that what we are trying to avoid....Peace

 

 

When you mentioned you adjust cable play, what did you do exactly?

Did you set the biting point to be further front or back?

Meaning is, when you pull in your clutch, is the biting point midway to fully pulling the lever or when almost fully pulled in?

 

Setting the biting point to be too close to fully pulled position can cause this problem to happen.

How?

Simple. Your clutch is still 'engaged' when you try to change gear, thus causing the engine to seize and stall.

Bring your bike to another shop (please avoid 3-letter shops in general) and ask them to help readjust your clutch biting point position.

Ask them to adjust it to your preference but not too close to the fully pulled position. Tell them something like 3/4 way before your clutch lever is fully pulled.

There are 2 locations where the adjustment is needed. At the clutch lever itself and at left side of your engine near the speedo sensor.

 

As a reference, I tend to prefer having the biting point midway (midway as in halfway pulling in the clutch lever from open to fully pulled) as I tend to squeeze city traffic a lot and need the fine-tune feel.

I have ever set the biting position too close to the fully-pulled position and get very unnerving gear changes and occasional stalls....

 

Right On, I did It once at Loois So Far Do Good Mate...

 

 

Tot they even teach it at driving centers? Its in the book rite?

 

Nope Mate, Didn't go That Far Tho More on the saftey expac of hadling the bike especially the Lady Riders...Hehehhehehehe

 

Cheerio Mates....:p

Suzuki B-King 2008 specifications

GSX1300BK -

www.suzuki-bk.com/en/index.html

Engine: 1,340cc

4-cylinder DOHC 16-valve

183.6 hp (137 kW)/ 9,500 rpm,

146 Nm/ 7,200 rpm.o_O

Posted

Hi GSR Riders,

 

I have some accessories going on sale at this tread: http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=269167

 

Pls feel free to contact me all accessories are nego until both parties are comfortable.

Hoping to buy house soon, so cutting down major of my riding stuffs, I still have a Shoie Hornet Ds going for $290 firm External n internal of the helmet is 9.5 over 10 wore less than 7 times.

 

To riders out there reading my post thank you. :)

2006 - Old School Vespa, Yamaha 125 Z, Bajaj Pulsar 180cc

2007 - Piaggio X8 200cc

2008 - Suzuki GSR 400cc

2009 - Piaggio X9 200cc, Yamaha R6 08, Piaggio MP3 400cc

2010 - Ducati 696, Bajaj Pulsa Ver. 200, Yamaha Fazer 8, Honda VFR 1200

2012- Phatom 200, CBR 150 R - 2012 Model

Once a Rider, Will always be...:thumb:

Posted

Ladies & Gentleman, Lost Boys & Gurls..

From the creators of Zappas, Tha WU-Bar & Roots

Presenting...

It's that time of the Week Again...

WEDNESDAY LADIES NITE

- DINNER @ SIMPANG -

 

The Usual Spot with the Usual Suspects...

Date: 16 Dec 2009 Wednesday

Time: 1930hrs - Till Late nite

Location: Simpang Bedok Yellow Table...

Purpose: Dinner, Stright Chillin', Sight Seeing & Welcomming the Newbies2 - Intrested party Just approach us & intro ya'self like u do in HASBO, Don't Worry We won't Bite...Yet...!

& Discussion on the Up-Comming Short Trip to the Unknown...

1) - BOne-eticz - :p

2) -

3) -

4) -

5) -

6) -

7) -

8) -

9) -

10) -

 

This Message is Brought to you in part by YOSHIMURA - the sound that you growl at night in bed is no Louder than mine so DEal With it....Snoring is Bad For your Health...o_O

 

Cheerio Mates...:p

Suzuki B-King 2008 specifications

GSX1300BK -

www.suzuki-bk.com/en/index.html

Engine: 1,340cc

4-cylinder DOHC 16-valve

183.6 hp (137 kW)/ 9,500 rpm,

146 Nm/ 7,200 rpm.o_O

Guest motofreak
Posted

Ladies & Gentleman, Lost Boys & Gurls..

From the creators of Zappas, Tha WU-Bar & Roots

Presenting...

It's that time of the Week Again...

WEDNESDAY LADIES NITE

- DINNER @ SIMPANG -

 

The Usual Spot with the Usual Suspects...

Date: 16 Dec 2009 Wednesday

Time: 1930hrs - Till Late nite

Location: Simpang Bedok Yellow Table...

Purpose: Dinner, Stright Chillin', Sight Seeing & Welcomming the Newbies2 - Intrested party Just approach us & intro ya'self like u do in HASBO, Don't Worry We won't Bite...Yet...!

& Discussion on the Up-Comming Short Trip to the Unknown...

1) - BOne-eticz - :p

2) - Motofrreak - Should be there unless i finish late again.

3) -

4) -

5) -

6) -

7) -

8) -

9) -

10) -

 

This Message is Brought to you in part by YOSHIMURA - the sound that you growl at night in bed is no Louder than mine so DEal With it....Snoring is Bad For your Health...o_O

 

Cheerio Mates...:p

Posted

Ladies & Gentleman, Lost Boys & Gurls..

From the creators of Zappas, Tha WU-Bar & Roots

Presenting...

It's that time of the Week Again...

WEDNESDAY LADIES NITE

- DINNER @ SIMPANG -

 

The Usual Spot with the Usual Suspects...

Date: 16 Dec 2009 Wednesday

Time: 1930hrs - Till Late nite

Location: Simpang Bedok Yellow Table...

Purpose: Dinner, Stright Chillin', Sight Seeing & Welcomming the Newbies2 - Intrested party Just approach us & intro ya'self like u do in HASBO, Don't Worry We won't Bite...Yet...!

& Discussion on the Up-Comming Short Trip to the Unknown...

1) - BOne-eticz - :p

2) - Motofrreak - Should be there unless i finish late again.

3) -

4) -

5) -

6) -

7) -

8) -

9) -

10) - Helmy - :cheers:

 

This Message is Brought to you in part by YOSHIMURA - the sound that you growl at night in bed is no Louder than mine so DEal With it....Snoring is Bad For your Health...o_O

 

Cheerio Mates...:p

Posted

hey guys.. anyone knows roughly how much would my insurance be for gsr 400 if im 19?

 

Also..hows the pickup for gsr as compared to other 2A bikes?

 

Thankssssssssssss

Past Rides

Honda NSR 150 SP

Yamaha RXK 135

Honda RVF 400 (NC 35)

Yamaha Supreme X1 110

Vespa PX150

Yamaha Y125z

Yamaha Supreme X1 110

Current Ride

Suzuki GSX-R750 K7

Posted
hey guys.. anyone knows roughly how much would my insurance be for gsr 400 if im 19?

 

Also..hows the pickup for gsr as compared to other 2A bikes?

 

Thankssssssssssss

 

must c hw fast ur legs n hands

http://www.fileden.com/files/2008/1/26/1720945/3M-CarbonFibre-Vinyl-GTR1400.jpg

Ride safe, Live to ride another day !

Posted
must c hw fast ur legs n hands

 

Hahaha i meant skills aside.. in terms of the bike capability..

Past Rides

Honda NSR 150 SP

Yamaha RXK 135

Honda RVF 400 (NC 35)

Yamaha Supreme X1 110

Vespa PX150

Yamaha Y125z

Yamaha Supreme X1 110

Current Ride

Suzuki GSX-R750 K7

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