[Discussion] Various Fuel Consumption on various bikes

[scrambyjess]

my Wr200 15-16km/L

PC belly with Modded Stock End

[Fried Rice]

yamaha spark 50-60km/l

[MR BIKER]

Suzuki Burgman 400 K5 : 24km/l Burgman 650 k5 : 18km/l (after changing air filter and using Singapore petrol Esso 95)

[Naukihs]

upzzzzzzz for this thread!!

 

anyone knows the FC for FZ16?

[stsoh]

here's wat newbies dun know about but most concern of getting lowest fc (fuel consumption).

so wat's is good fc??? many will ask.

it's a fact n proven in scientific world tat gasoline burns optimum at stoichiometric 14.7:1 air/fuel mix in mass (wt., not in vol).

 

for any cl2b bikes, tat should be range around 30km/l, any fc above 30km/l is consider lean.

here another fact, lean carb or efi setup, bike engine will run hot. the leaner, engine will run hotter.

combustion temperature can reach above 800 deg C at most extreme lean setting.

normal operating combustion temperature should be around 600~700 deg C.

it also self-cleaning as it will burn off all residuals in the combustion chamber.

at 700 n above deg C is lean state.

 

wat's bad about running lean beside one good point of saving fuel??

here's r the disadvantages;

1) engine is under performance.

2) engine will overheating (stop functioning if it is extremely hot like most stock pulsar).

3) extreme heat can boil/evaporate/cook engine oil thus eo breakdown at faster rate. lost it's properties to lubricate, cleanse, parts wear n tear faster, built up sludge (black death for engine in technical term).

4) extreme heat also cause rubber seal/gasket to change their physical form, turn brittle n hard, sooner will break up n oil will leak.

5) spark plug electrode will be burn off.

6) at worst, overheating can burn a hole thru the piston.

etc..

 

if u still think tat saving fuel is good, think again.

in long run, it's the worst thing tat u do to ur bike, do most harm than good.

besides running at extreme lean produce more pollutant carbon monoxide.

 

do yourself a favour, dun be stingy on saving fuel. run ur bike at optimum stoichiometric setting.

u will enjoy riding more with your bike at performance level n also save the earth from pollutants.

[Allen]

here's wat newbies dun know about but most concern of getting lowest fc (fuel consumption).

so wat's is good fc??? many will ask.

it's a fact n proven in scientific world tat gasoline burns optimum at stoichiometric 14.7:1 air/fuel mix in mass (wt., not in vol).

 

for any cl2b bikes, tat should be range around 30km/l, any fc above 30km/l is consider lean.

here another fact, lean carb or efi setup, bike engine will run hot. the leaner, engine will run hotter.

combustion temperature can reach above 800 deg C at most extreme lean setting.

normal operating combustion temperature should be around 600~700 deg C.

it also self-cleaning as it will burn off all residuals in the combustion chamber.

at 700 n above deg C is lean state.

 

wat's bad about running lean beside one good point of saving fuel??

here's r the disadvantages;

1) engine is under performance.

2) engine will overheating (stop functioning if it is extremely hot like most stock pulsar).

3) extreme heat can boil/evaporate/cook engine oil thus eo breakdown at faster rate. lost it's properties to lubricate, cleanse, parts wear n tear faster, built up sludge (black death for engine in technical term).

4) extreme heat also cause rubber seal/gasket to change their physical form, turn brittle n hard, sooner will break up n oil will leak.

5) spark plug electrode will be burn off.

6) at worst, overheating can burn a hole thru the piston.

etc..

 

if u still think tat saving fuel is good, think again.

in long run, it's the worst thing tat u do to ur bike, do most harm than good.

besides running at extreme lean produce more pollutant carbon monoxide.

 

do yourself a favour, dun be stingy on saving fuel. run ur bike at optimum stoichiometric setting.

u will enjoy riding more with your bike at performance level n also save the earth from pollutants.

 

Are you serious? Kupkia can easily do 40-50km/L.

[stsoh]

a light weight kup with 125cc engine should be able do around 35km/l at optimum stoichiometeric 14.7:1 air/fuel mix by it's weight (not in volume).

100/110cc engine can to do fc of 40km/l, at extreme 50~60km/l runs below at 50 kph is achievable in real life.

those whom ride at these fc r not optimizing engine performance n their engine r always run very hot.

believe it or not, just observe ur friends bike whom r running with low fc.

Edited July 21, 2011 by stsoh

[bukitmerah]

here's wat newbies dun know about but most concern of getting lowest fc (fuel consumption).

so wat's is good fc??? many will ask.

it's a fact n proven in scientific world tat gasoline burns optimum at stoichiometric 14.7:1 air/fuel mix in mass (wt., not in vol).

 

for any cl2b bikes, tat should be range around 30km/l, any fc above 30km/l is consider lean.

here another fact, lean carb or efi setup, bike engine will run hot. the leaner, engine will run hotter.

combustion temperature can reach above 800 deg C at most extreme lean setting.

normal operating combustion temperature should be around 600~700 deg C.

it also self-cleaning as it will burn off all residuals in the combustion chamber.

at 700 n above deg C is lean state.

 

wat's bad about running lean beside one good point of saving fuel??

here's r the disadvantages;

1) engine is under performance.

2) engine will overheating (stop functioning if it is extremely hot like most stock pulsar).

3) extreme heat can boil/evaporate/cook engine oil thus eo breakdown at faster rate. lost it's properties to lubricate, cleanse, parts wear n tear faster, built up sludge (black death for engine in technical term).

4) extreme heat also cause rubber seal/gasket to change their physical form, turn brittle n hard, sooner will break up n oil will leak.

5) spark plug electrode will be burn off.

6) at worst, overheating can burn a hole thru the piston.

etc..

 

if u still think tat saving fuel is good, think again.

in long run, it's the worst thing tat u do to ur bike, do most harm than good.

besides running at extreme lean produce more pollutant carbon monoxide.

 

do yourself a favour, dun be stingy on saving fuel. run ur bike at optimum stoichiometric setting.

u will enjoy riding more with your bike at performance level n also save the earth from pollutants.

 

a light weight kup with 125cc engine should be able do around 35km/l at optimum stoichiometeric 14.7:1 air/fuel mix by it's weight (not in volume).

100/110cc engine can to do fc of 40km/l, at extreme 50~60km/l runs below at 50 kph is achievable in real life.

those whom ride at these fc r not optimizing engine performance n their engine r always run very hot.

believe it or not, just observe ur friends bike whom r running with low fc.

 

thanks for sharing the info, some further questions...

 

1) i summarize from your posts that 2b bikes should be around 30km/l & kups = 40km/l ( agar agar +/- approximate rule of thumb ). is that correct?

 

2) some of the new 2b bikes with EFIs are getting above 40km/l, is that still good or bad ? If that is no good, does that imply EFIs better FC makes the engine worse ? on the other hand, if no problem, does that mean EFI bikes have "different rules" ?

 

3) how about the bigger class 2 bikes? many of them have EFIs that give around 16~20km/l, so is that still no problem considering their heavier weight & bigger capacity? S4 Revo have EFI but FC is still around the same as previous S4 with carbs ( agar 23 +/- )...what is your view?

 

Please do not misunderstand, i am NOT trying to refute you but just want to know more.

Edited July 24, 2011 by bukitmerah

[stsoh]

all stock bikes r set to lean by manufacturers to meet euro emission std.

as u have mentioned those stock bikes r in lean state.

remap fuel or retune carb improve engine performances as compared to stock.

even with stock exhaust system, remap efi or retune carb(s), engine will improve performance n runs at cooler temperature.

 

u probably read some big bike riders complaining they have a heat stove underneath when stuck as tuas or woodland customs, these bikes r running lean.

when set richer at stoichiometeric air/fuel mix, engine will run cooler n it wont be as hot.

 

for big EFI bikes, there r gadgets like power commander III, V or cobra Fi2000.

for small EFI bikes, there arent any gadget yet but if u r good with electronic n willing to take risk, there is a DIY gadget named microsquirt.

carb have four settings tat can be change:

main-jet, small-jet, jet-needle eclip position, pilot(air) screw.

for multi-carbs (more than one), need synchronizing/balancing all carbs everytime when retuning.

 

how to check for good air/fuel mix is to check ur spark plug electrode or dyno ur bike.

spark plug electrode color:

1) brown or tan is good air/fuel mix.

2) grey is lean, white is too lean.

3) black is rich, sooty is too rich.

Edited July 24, 2011 by stsoh

[Jehuty]

I doubt 2 stroke sport bikes can do 30km/l, at most 25, if above most likely like someone said, running on lean or not riding in powerband, which results in increased carbon buildup.

[Jehuty]

here's wat newbies dun know about but most concern of getting lowest fc (fuel consumption).

so wat's is good fc??? many will ask.

it's a fact n proven in scientific world tat gasoline burns optimum at stoichiometric 14.7:1 air/fuel mix in mass (wt., not in vol).

 

for any cl2b bikes, tat should be range around 30km/l, any fc above 30km/l is consider lean.

here another fact, lean carb or efi setup, bike engine will run hot. the leaner, engine will run hotter.

combustion temperature can reach above 800 deg C at most extreme lean setting.

normal operating combustion temperature should be around 600~700 deg C.

it also self-cleaning as it will burn off all residuals in the combustion chamber.

at 700 n above deg C is lean state.

 

wat's bad about running lean beside one good point of saving fuel??

here's r the disadvantages;

1) engine is under performance.

2) engine will overheating (stop functioning if it is extremely hot like most stock pulsar).

3) extreme heat can boil/evaporate/cook engine oil thus eo breakdown at faster rate. lost it's properties to lubricate, cleanse, parts wear n tear faster, built up sludge (black death for engine in technical term).

4) extreme heat also cause rubber seal/gasket to change their physical form, turn brittle n hard, sooner will break up n oil will leak.

5) spark plug electrode will be burn off.

6) at worst, overheating can burn a hole thru the piston.

etc..

 

if u still think tat saving fuel is good, think again.

in long run, it's the worst thing tat u do to ur bike, do most harm than good.

besides running at extreme lean produce more pollutant carbon monoxide.

 

do yourself a favour, dun be stingy on saving fuel. run ur bike at optimum stoichiometric setting.

u will enjoy riding more with your bike at performance level n also save the earth from pollutants.

 

While I'm not really bothered with saving earth from pollutants, how to run bike at optimum fuel:air mix? I mean all the mech does is rev the bike like mad, then adjust here and there.

[stsoh]

While I'm not really bothered with saving earth from pollutants, how to run bike at optimum fuel:air mix? I mean all the mech does is rev the bike like mad, then adjust here and there.

most mech in sillypore dun care about setting at stoichiometeric as long as the engine can start/run.

 

heres how to check whether ur engine is running at optimum;

check spark plug electrode tip:

1) brown or tan is good air/fuel mix, combustion temp is 600~700 deg C.

2) grey is lean, white is too lean, combustion temp is above 700 deg C.

3) black is rich, sooty is too rich, combustion temp is below 600 deg C.

[stsoh]

I doubt 2 stroke sport bikes can do 30km/l, at most 25, if above most likely like someone said, running on lean or not riding in powerband, which results in increased carbon buildup.

2-strokes engine r different from 4-strokes engine, they r two kinds.

avg fc 2-strokes 150cc should be around 20~22 km/l.

even 4-strokes engine, it has old tech 2-valves n new tech 4-valves engine.

4-valves breathes in more flow than 2-valves at high rpm thus more fc.

tats the reason why s4 riders dun like to pull high rpm, they ride conservatively to save fuel.

[heysugar]

Honda nsr sp150:

222km before turning reserve

[Jehuty]

most mech in sillypore dun care about setting at stoichiometeric as long as the engine can start/run.

 

heres how to check whether ur engine is running at optimum;

check spark plug electrode tip:

1) brown or tan is good air/fuel mix, combustion temp is 600~700 deg C.

2) grey is lean, white is too lean, combustion temp is above 700 deg C.

3) black is rich, sooty is too rich, combustion temp is below 600 deg C.

 

You mean rev and rev, take spark plug out, look at it, then do setting until its brown or tan?

[bukitmerah]

most mech in sillypore dun care about setting at stoichiometeric as long as the engine can start/run.

 

heres how to check whether ur engine is running at optimum;

check spark plug electrode tip:

1) brown or tan is good air/fuel mix, combustion temp is 600~700 deg C.

2) grey is lean, white is too lean, combustion temp is above 700 deg C.

3) black is rich, sooty is too rich, combustion temp is below 600 deg C.

 

hoot, THANKS THANKS THANKS, BRO !

 

my present KR is around 28 km/l but tip is brown as you described, so i was initially SCARED ( when change plug ) as i have never seen a "brown" one on my previous bikes.

 

last time, my previous bikes spark plug ALWAYS super black & sooty one even after change...( i thought that was normal all these years ! ) , i have to tahan its even worse FC for so many years!

Edited July 25, 2011 by bukitmerah

[stsoh]

You mean rev and rev, take spark plug out, look at it, then do setting until its brown or tan?

 

no, normal ride.

remove spark plug when engine cools down.

use hand to screw-in the spark plug then tighten with plug wretch.

dun use force if spark plug cant screw down, u might cross thread it.

sometime its sticky to screw down by hand, carefully use light force with plug wretch.

just dun come here n complain tat u cross-thread it.

[mab]

Class 2

HONDA:

Honda CBR1000RR - 14.4km/liter

Honda CBR1000RR 05 - 19.6-20km/litre (sg road)

Honda CBR954RR - 10km-16km/litre

Honda CBR929RR - 15-17km/litre

Honda CBR919RR - 18km/litre

Honda VFR Vtec 2002 - 17.8 - 21.7km/litre (max. acheived when touring)

Honda VFR 800 1998 -17-18.5km/litre

Honda CBR600f4i - 18km/litre

Honda CBR600RR - 18-20km/litre

Honda Pacific Coast PC800 - 18-19km/litre (avg speed:110km/hr)

Honda X-11 - 12-13km/litre (might be lesser)

Honda Blackbird CBR1100XX - 15-16km/litre

Honda Deauville 650 NTV - 20km/litre

Honda ST11 - 18-19km/litre

Honda STX13 - 16-18km/lire

Honda Valkyrie 1522cc - 11.5-14.8km/litre

 

SUZUKI:

Suzuki 1996 DR650SE - 25km/litre

Suzuki 1999 SV650S - 19km/litre

Suzuki GSXR750(1998 efi) - 15-16km/litre

Suzuki GSXR 750 K6- 22km/liter

Intruder 1400 - 10.5-12km/litre

Suzuki 1999 HayaBusa GSX 1300 RX ( with twin yoshi both on) - 22km/litre ( if i slowly pick up and speed at 100km/hr) 17.5km/litre (normal riding) 16km/litre (high speed touring)

Suzuki GSXR600(2001 efi) 17-18kmlitre

Suzuki 2006 AN650exec - 20-22km/litre

Suzuki GSXR600 K4 - 18-20km/litre (cruise at 110km/hr)

Suzuki GSXR600K9 - 14-18km/L

Suzuki GSX-R1000 K1 - 18km/litre (cruise at 110km/hr)

Suzuki V-Strom 1000 K8 - 60-80km/hr -23-24km/litre, 120km/hr - 20-21km/litre, 160-180km/hr - 16-18km/litre

Suzuki V-Strom 650 K4 - 21-25km/litre

 

YAMAHA:

Yamaha XJ900S Diversion - 15-19km/litre

Yamaha Fazer 1000 - 15-21 km/liter

Yamaha FJR - 16-18 km/litre

Yamaha 02 R1 - 18-20km/litre

Yamaha 04 R1 - 17-18km/litre (M'sia ESSO F1)

Yamaha 05 R1 - 20-22km/litre (Slow gradual pickup, keep below 4K rpm)

Yamaha 07 R1 - 15-18km/litre (Ride it like u stole it)

Yamaha 02 R6 - 20-2km/litre

Yamaha R6 - 17-20km/litre (20 is when u r ridin at 80-90km/hr)

Yamaha TDM900 02 - 23-25 km/litre (average speed 100-110km/hr)

Yamaha TDM900' 04 - 24km/litre (Slow gradual pickup, keep below 4K rpm and ride within sg's legal speeds)

Yamaha FZ6 04 - 19-23km/litre

Yamaha VMax - 10.5-17km/litre

 

Harley Sportster 1200 Sports - 24-29km/litre

Harley Sportster 1200 Low (07) - 19-22km/litre (city/expressway)

 

Kawasaki Z1000 - 15-16km/litre

Kawasaki ZXR750 - 21.6km/litre (ride slow), 20.6km/litre (ride normal), 18.5km/litre (ride very fast), 14.9km/litre (whack hard hard)

Kawasaki Concourse 1400 GTR - 16.5km/litre (city riding below 4K RPM)

Triumph T509 Speed Triple - 16-17km/litre

 

BMW F800ST - 24-27km/litre (city/expressway)

BMW R1100R - 18-21km/litre (city/expressway)

 

 

Class 2A

HONDA:

Honda RVF - 20km/litre

Honda Helix 250 - 24-25km/litre (90km/hr+)

Honda Super4 CB400 Spec 2 - 25km/litre

Honda CBR400RRR - 26km/liter

Honda Steed - 24.5-28km/litre

Honda Foresight - 29-32km/litre

Honda Super 4 Vtec III - 19-23km/litre (19km/h if open vtec all the way)

Honda Super 4 REVO- 21-23km/Litre (10-20% open VTEC)

Honda Super 4 REVO- 16-19km/Litre (50% Open VTEC)

Honda XR400R supermoto - 22km/litre

Honda Hornet250 - 29km/litre (conservative)

Honda Super 4 Version S - 30-32km/litre

Honda Silverwing 400 European version - 24-25km/litre (90km/hr+ average)

Honda Night Hawk 250 - 45km/litre

 

SUZUKI:

Suzuki GSXR400P - 19-20km/litre

Suzuki 1995 Bandit 400-300km to reserve another 80km to empty tank

Suzuki Impulse - 29km/litre (80km/hr max on normal road riding)

Suzuki SV400S - 26-29km/litre (normal riding)

Suzuki Intruder 400 - 18-19km/litre

Suzuki GSR 400 - 20-21km/litre

Suzuki DRZ400SM- 25-28km/litre

Suzuki DRZ400SM- 22-26km/litre (Leo Vince)

 

YAHAMA:

Yamaha XT225 Serrow - 40-45km/litre

Yamaha YP400 - 24-26km/litre

Yamaha YP250 Majesty - 31-33km/litre

Yamaha RD350LC - 15-17 km/liter (80-90km/hr avg)

Yamaha Virago XV400 - 18-19km/litre

Yamaha Dragstar 400 - 18-19km/litre

 

Ducati M400 - 25-27km/litre

 

Piaggio X9 250 SL - 28-29km/litre

 

Kawasaki ZXR400 - 19-20km/liter (F1 JB ESSO)

 

Aprilia RS250 - 11km/litre

 

 

Class 2B

APRILIA:

Aprilia RS125 replica - 23-25km/litre

Aprilla Y2K - 26-29km/litre

Aprilia Atlantic - 28km/litre

Aprilia Scarabeo 200 - 30km/litre at least

 

Bajaj:

Bajaj Pulsar 180 - 50-60km/litre

 

HONDA:

Honda NSR125SP - 30-31km/litre

Honda NSR150SP - 21-22km/litre

Honda CBR150R - 31-37km/litre

Honda CBF150 - 40-45km/litre

Honda Phantam TA200 - 38-40km/litre

Phantam TA200 - 32-34km/litre (130kg passengers full 45l box, road 70 highway 90)

Honda Phantom TA150 - 18-26 km/litre (lowest when touring top speed)

Honda Shadow 125 - 30km/litre (before engine servicing)

Honda Varadero 125 - 29-30km/litre (average 90km/h )

Honda Wave

- 30-32km/litre (full throttle everywhere)

- 40-45km/litre (3/4 throttle max)

- 50-55km/litre (conservative)

Honda Wave-i - 57-61km/litre (running around at 80-90km/h)

Honda Phantom TA150 - 21-22km/litre

Honda XR125L 29-31km/litre

Honda FS150 (FS 150/FSX 150/ FSX150) : 30km/litre (around 90 to 105km/hour, with pillion, not much rushing around).

>> 26km/litre when rushing around

Honda XL200 30km/litre (normal riding, whack a bit)

 

YAMAHA:

Yamaha FZ150i - 40km/litre

Yamaha YBR125 - 45-50km/litre

Yamaha RXZ135 - 33-35km/litre

(The Sheriff both RXZ) 23-26km/litre

Yamaha 125Z - Stock 25km/litre

- Vector One Z1 Kit : 32km/litre Avg Speed - 100 (Digital Speedo)

- Vector One R1 Kit : 30km/litre As above

Yamaha X1 - 45-50km/litre (80 - 90+km/h)

Yamaha Sparkz135LC - 40km/litre

Yamaha WR200 - 28km/litre (stock)

- 24km/litre (mod pipe)

- 18km/liter (pipe+big hole in air box+etc)

Yamaha TZM150 - 24km/litre (friend A)

- 18km/litre (friend B)

- 16km/litre (friend C)

- 15km/litre (friend D)

- Yamaha Fino 115

51.33km/L (Super petrol saver style, Slow gradual pickup, Strictly 60 km/h on normal rd, Strictly 90km/h on expressway [4 day pump 1 time])

47.67km/L (Slow gradual pickup, expressway (100km/h), 1 day use half tank)

41.20km/L (Slow gradual pickup, normal riding (60-70km/h), expressway (100km/h))

35.14km/L (Slow gradual pickup, Full throttle 120-130km/h at expressway)

 

 

Piaggio X9 - 28-30km/litre

 

Kawasaki KRR ZX150 - 30km/litre (normal riding)

 

Cagiva Mito - 20-25km/litre

 

Vespa PX150 - 25-29km/litre

Vespa Excel150 - 27-32km/litre

LML PX150 - 33-35km/litre (based on 80km/hr avg riding)

Vespa sprint 1967 - 31-40km/litre (based on 60km/h avg) if SG traffic, maybe 27km/litre

Veapa GT200 - 30-33km/litre

 

Daelim Daystar VL125 - 33-37km/litre

Daelim Magma - 35-38km/litre

Daelim Roadwin 125 - 29-31km/litre

Daelim Roadwin 150 - 27-29km/litre

Suzuki Intruder VL125 - 20-25km/litre

Suzuki DR 200 50-60km/h 35 km/litre , 90-110 Km/h 27Km/Litre

Skipper 125 - 20-28km/litre

Gilera Runner 06 - 26-29km/litre

Hyosung Aquila GV125 V-twin - 29-32km/litre

Sachs Madass 125cc - 43-46km/litre

[georgekoh]

lets update this thread. a few bikes are missing from the list.

[WanFazer]

FC ... I dun even bother bout my bike fc.. When time to top up, just go to nearest petrol stn liaoz... Got $ to buy bike of ur choice then must have $ for e petrol lah

[carbine]

the FC varies between different riders...........

[fairSquare]

Note that with full system exhaust, the fc goes up too.

[fairSquare]

Class 2

HONDA:

Honda CBR1000RR - 14.4km/liter

Honda CBR1000RR 05 - 19.6-20km/litre (sg road)

Honda CBR954RR - 10km-16km/litre

Honda CBR929RR - 15-17km/litre

Honda CBR919RR - 18km/litre

Honda VFR Vtec 2002 - 17.8 - 21.7km/litre (max. acheived when touring)

Honda VFR 800 1998 -17-18.5km/litre

Honda CBR600f4i - 18km/litre

Honda CBR600RR - 18-20km/litre

Honda Pacific Coast PC800 - 18-19km/litre (avg speed:110km/hr)

Honda X-11 - 12-13km/litre (might be lesser)

Honda Blackbird CBR1100XX - 15-16km/litre

Honda Deauville 650 NTV - 20km/litre

Honda ST11 - 18-19km/litre

Honda STX13 - 16-18km/lire

Honda Valkyrie 1522cc - 11.5-14.8km/litre

 

SUZUKI:

Suzuki 1996 DR650SE - 25km/litre

Suzuki 1999 SV650S - 19km/litre

Suzuki GSXR750(1998 efi) - 15-16km/litre

Suzuki GSXR 750 K6- 22km/liter

Intruder 1400 - 10.5-12km/litre

Suzuki 1999 HayaBusa GSX 1300 RX ( with twin yoshi both on) - 22km/litre ( if i slowly pick up and speed at 100km/hr) 17.5km/litre (normal riding) 16km/litre (high speed touring)

Suzuki GSXR600(2001 efi) 17-18kmlitre

Suzuki 2006 AN650exec - 20-22km/litre

Suzuki GSXR600 K4 - 18-20km/litre (cruise at 110km/hr)

Suzuki GSXR600K9 - 14-18km/L

Suzuki GSX-R1000 K1 - 18km/litre (cruise at 110km/hr)

Suzuki V-Strom 1000 K8 - 60-80km/hr -23-24km/litre, 120km/hr - 20-21km/litre, 160-180km/hr - 16-18km/litre

Suzuki V-Strom 650 K4 - 21-25km/litre

 

YAMAHA:

Yamaha XJ900S Diversion - 15-19km/litre

Yamaha Fazer 1000 - 15-21 km/liter

Yamaha FJR - 16-18 km/litre

Yamaha 02 R1 - 18-20km/litre

Yamaha 04 R1 - 17-18km/litre (M'sia ESSO F1)

Yamaha 05 R1 - 20-22km/litre (Slow gradual pickup, keep below 4K rpm)

Yamaha 07 R1 - 15-18km/litre (Ride it like u stole it)

Yamaha 02 R6 - 20-2km/litre

Yamaha R6 - 17-20km/litre (20 is when u r ridin at 80-90km/hr)

Yamaha TDM900 02 - 23-25 km/litre (average speed 100-110km/hr)

Yamaha TDM900' 04 - 24km/litre (Slow gradual pickup, keep below 4K rpm and ride within sg's legal speeds)

Yamaha FZ6 04 - 19-23km/litre

Yamaha VMax - 10.5-17km/litre

 

Harley Sportster 1200 Sports - 24-29km/litre

Harley Sportster 1200 Low (07) - 19-22km/litre (city/expressway)

 

Kawasaki Z1000 - 15-16km/litre

Kawasaki ZXR750 - 21.6km/litre (ride slow), 20.6km/litre (ride normal), 18.5km/litre (ride very fast), 14.9km/litre (whack hard hard)

Kawasaki Concourse 1400 GTR - 16.5km/litre (city riding below 4K RPM)

Triumph T509 Speed Triple - 16-17km/litre

 

BMW F800ST - 24-27km/litre (city/expressway)

BMW R1100R - 18-21km/litre (city/expressway)

 

 

Class 2A

HONDA:

Honda RVF - 20km/litre

Honda Helix 250 - 24-25km/litre (90km/hr+)

Honda CBR400RRR - 26km/liter

Honda Steed - 24.5-28km/litre

Honda Foresight - 29-32km/litre

Honda Super4 CB400 VTec (Note that with Full System, the FC decreases by 1km/L-3km/L)

Honda Super4 CB400 VTec 1 - 21-23km/litre

Honda Super4 CB400 VTec 2 - 25km/litre

Honda Super 4 Vtec III - 19-23km/litre (18-19km/h if open vtec all the way)

Honda Super 4 REVO- 21-23km/Litre (10-20% open VTEC)

Honda Super 4 REVO- 16-19km/Litre (50% Open VTEC)

Honda XR400R supermoto - 22km/litre

Honda Hornet250 - 29km/litre (conservative)

Honda Super 4 Version S - 30-32km/litre

Honda Silverwing 400 European version - 24-25km/litre (90km/hr+ average)

Honda Night Hawk 250 - 45km/litre

 

SUZUKI:

Suzuki GSXR400P - 19-20km/litre

Suzuki 1995 Bandit 400-300km to reserve another 80km to empty tank

Suzuki Impulse - 29km/litre (80km/hr max on normal road riding)

Suzuki SV400S - 26-29km/litre (normal riding)

Suzuki Intruder 400 - 18-19km/litre

Suzuki GSR 400 - 20-21km/litre

Suzuki DRZ400SM- 25-28km/litre

Suzuki DRZ400SM- 22-26km/litre (Leo Vince)

 

YAHAMA:

Yamaha XT225 Serrow - 40-45km/litre

Yamaha YP400 - 24-26km/litre

Yamaha YP250 Majesty - 31-33km/litre

Yamaha RD350LC - 15-17 km/liter (80-90km/hr avg)

Yamaha Virago XV400 - 18-19km/litre

Yamaha Dragstar 400 - 18-19km/litre

 

Ducati M400 - 25-27km/litre

 

Piaggio X9 250 SL - 28-29km/litre

 

Kawasaki ZXR400 - 19-20km/liter (F1 JB ESSO)

 

Aprilia RS250 - 11km/litre

 

 

Class 2B

APRILIA:

Aprilia RS125 replica - 23-25km/litre

Aprilla Y2K - 26-29km/litre

Aprilia Atlantic - 28km/litre

Aprilia Scarabeo 200 - 30km/litre at least

 

Bajaj:

Bajaj Pulsar 180 - 50-60km/litre

 

HONDA:

Honda NSR125SP - 30-31km/litre

Honda NSR150SP - 21-22km/litre

Honda CBR150R - 31-37km/litre

Honda CBF150 - 40-45km/litre

Honda Phantam TA200 - 38-40km/litre

Phantam TA200 - 32-34km/litre (130kg passengers full 45l box, road 70 highway 90)

Honda Phantom TA150 - 18-26 km/litre (lowest when touring top speed)

Honda Shadow 125 - 30km/litre (before engine servicing)

Honda Varadero 125 - 29-30km/litre (average 90km/h )

Honda Wave

- 30-32km/litre (full throttle everywhere)

- 40-45km/litre (3/4 throttle max)

- 50-55km/litre (conservative)

Honda Wave-i - 57-61km/litre (running around at 80-90km/h)

Honda Phantom TA150 - 21-22km/litre

Honda XR125L 29-31km/litre

Honda FS150 (FS 150/FSX 150/ FSX150) : 30km/litre (around 90 to 105km/hour, with pillion, not much rushing around).

>> 26km/litre when rushing around

Honda XL200 30km/litre (normal riding, whack a bit)

 

YAMAHA:

Yamaha FZ150i - 40km/litre

Yamaha YBR125 - 45-50km/litre

Yamaha RXZ135 - 33-35km/litre

(The Sheriff both RXZ) 23-26km/litre

Yamaha 125Z - Stock 25km/litre

- Vector One Z1 Kit : 32km/litre Avg Speed - 100 (Digital Speedo)

- Vector One R1 Kit : 30km/litre As above

Yamaha X1 - 45-50km/litre (80 - 90+km/h)

Yamaha Sparkz135LC - 40km/litre

Yamaha WR200 - 28km/litre (stock)

- 24km/litre (mod pipe)

- 18km/liter (pipe+big hole in air box+etc)

Yamaha TZM150 - 24km/litre (friend A)

- 18km/litre (friend B)

- 16km/litre (friend C)

- 15km/litre (friend D)

- Yamaha Fino 115

51.33km/L (Super petrol saver style, Slow gradual pickup, Strictly 60 km/h on normal rd, Strictly 90km/h on expressway [4 day pump 1 time])

47.67km/L (Slow gradual pickup, expressway (100km/h), 1 day use half tank)

41.20km/L (Slow gradual pickup, normal riding (60-70km/h), expressway (100km/h))

35.14km/L (Slow gradual pickup, Full throttle 120-130km/h at expressway)

 

 

Piaggio X9 - 28-30km/litre

 

Kawasaki KRR ZX150 - 30km/litre (normal riding)

 

Cagiva Mito - 20-25km/litre

 

Vespa PX150 - 25-29km/litre

Vespa Excel150 - 27-32km/litre

LML PX150 - 33-35km/litre (based on 80km/hr avg riding)

Vespa sprint 1967 - 31-40km/litre (based on 60km/h avg) if SG traffic, maybe 27km/litre

Veapa GT200 - 30-33km/litre

 

Daelim Daystar VL125 - 33-37km/litre

Daelim Magma - 35-38km/litre

Daelim Roadwin 125 - 29-31km/litre

Daelim Roadwin 150 - 27-29km/litre

Suzuki Intruder VL125 - 20-25km/litre

Suzuki DR 200 50-60km/h 35 km/litre , 90-110 Km/h 27Km/Litre

Skipper 125 - 20-28km/litre

Gilera Runner 06 - 26-29km/litre

Hyosung Aquila GV125 V-twin - 29-32km/litre

Sachs Madass 125cc - 43-46km/litre

[NovaBeng]

Honda VTR1000 RC51 SP1 - 15-15.5km/litre

Yamaha 03 R6 - 18.5-20km/litre

[ImThou]

Yamaha YZF-R125: 40-45km/l