Kawasaki KRR150 Riders

[dEeLdo]

Originally posted by FireSpitter@Nov 11 2006, 12:03 PM

A CDI is nothing more than a set of programs housed inside a little box. It's the intellectual property that went into it's programmed set of ignition timing (And in the instances of EFI engines, fuel mapping as well) that makes it costlier than the raw components.

 

What's the difference between a "performance" CDI & a stock one? A stock CDI was programmed for all stock parts in mind but with also a wide variating factor to:-

 

1) Be environmentally friendly

2) Fuel efficient

3) Friendlier power delivery

4) Cater for idiotic owners whom:-

i) Pump in wrong octane of petrol

ii) Does not replace or clean clogged airfilters

iii) Does not change engine oil during recommended periods

5) Less than ideal engine conditions (Tolerances, lubrication etc..)

6) Cater to manufacturing size differences

7) Cater to minor mods

8) Altitude & weather variances

 

In short a stock CDI does quite a bit, maintaining decent performance but retaining reliability despite harsh conditions (Especially on the owners' responsibility part).

 

A race CDI usually comes only with a full race kit including coil, magnet, pipe, block, carb, v.stack, airbox (Depending on the actual race kit model, some parts may not be supplied or more parts could be included). The race CDI works perfectly with all supplied parts under only ONE condition, racing at full throttle. Hope this helps.

nicky hayden of kawa speaks

tanx fer the info bros...

[YEN96]

Originally posted by FireSpitter@Nov 11 2006, 12:03 PM

A CDI is nothing more than a set of programs housed inside a little box. It's the intellectual property that went into it's programmed set of ignition timing (And in the instances of EFI engines, fuel mapping as well) that makes it costlier than the raw components.

 

What's the difference between a "performance" CDI & a stock one? A stock CDI was programmed for all stock parts in mind but with also a wide variating factor to:-

 

1) Be environmentally friendly

2) Fuel efficient

3) Friendlier power delivery

4) Cater for idiotic owners whom:-

i) Pump in wrong octane of petrol

ii) Does not replace or clean clogged airfilters

iii) Does not change engine oil during recommended periods

5) Less than ideal engine conditions (Tolerances, lubrication etc..)

6) Cater to manufacturing size differences

7) Cater to minor mods

8) Altitude & weather variances

 

In short a stock CDI does quite a bit, maintaining decent performance but retaining reliability despite harsh conditions (Especially on the owners' responsibility part).

 

A race CDI usually comes only with a full race kit including coil, magnet, pipe, block, carb, v.stack, airbox (Depending on the actual race kit model, some parts may not be supplied or more parts could be included). The race CDI works perfectly with all supplied parts under only ONE condition, racing at full throttle. Hope this helps.

woW..words of a true guRu

 

WiSdoM

 

BtW is ur kr black wif spokey rims ?

[voodoodoll]

whahahaa agree.. so y spend so much, when the world dun even know u.. so fast got present to take anot??

[voodoodoll]

FireSpitter : are u looking for a 2nd hand carb? i got a port 1 in working condition..

[YEN96]

Originally posted by voodoodoll@Nov 11 2006, 01:05 PM

FireSpitter : are u looking for a 2nd hand carb? i got a port 1 in working condition..

ported means wat ? increase the carB size ?

 

why dun straight anyway mount in a keiHin racing carb ? put 36mm one

 

wahahhahahahaaa

 

 

maybe fuLL tanK 130 km dry liaoz

[zongbao]

Originally posted by YEN96@Nov 11 2006, 01:22 PM

ported means wat ? increase the carB size ?

 

why dun straight anyway mount in a keiHin racing carb ? put 36mm one

 

wahahhahahahaaa

 

 

maybe fuLL tanK 130 km dry liaoz

that's maybe the reason y..

[Guest FireSpitter]

Originally posted by Dee@Nov 11 2006, 12:55 PM

nicky hayden of kawa speaks

tanx fer the info bros...

Nicky Hayden is just a rider (And a good one too).... Riders may not (And need not) be too good with technical knowledge.

 

I'm just an enthusiast.

[Guest FireSpitter]

Originally posted by voodoodoll@Nov 11 2006, 01:05 PM

FireSpitter : are u looking for a 2nd hand carb? i got a port 1 in working condition..

Ported using Dremel, lathe or CNC?

[Guest FireSpitter]

Originally posted by YEN96@Nov 11 2006, 01:22 PM

ported means wat ? increase the carB size ?

 

why dun straight anyway mount in a keiHin racing carb ? put 36mm one

 

wahahhahahahaaa

 

 

maybe fuLL tanK 130 km dry liaoz

Bigger doesn't necessarily mean better on a street bike

[AH_PEK_LAH]

Originally posted by FireSpitter@Nov 11 2006, 12:03 PM

A CDI is nothing more than a set of programs housed inside a little box. It's the intellectual property that went into it's programmed set of ignition timing (And in the instances of EFI engines, fuel mapping as well) that makes it costlier than the raw components.

 

What's the difference between a "performance" CDI & a stock one? A stock CDI was programmed for all stock parts in mind but with also a wide variating factor to:-

 

1) Be environmentally friendly

2) Fuel efficient

3) Friendlier power delivery

4) Cater for idiotic owners whom:-

i) Pump in wrong octane of petrol

ii) Does not replace or clean clogged airfilters

iii) Does not change engine oil during recommended periods

5) Less than ideal engine conditions (Tolerances, lubrication etc..)

6) Cater to manufacturing size differences

7) Cater to minor mods

8) Altitude & weather variances

 

In short a stock CDI does quite a bit, maintaining decent performance but retaining reliability despite harsh conditions (Especially on the owners' responsibility part).

 

A race CDI usually comes only with a full race kit including coil, magnet, pipe, block, carb, v.stack, airbox (Depending on the actual race kit model, some parts may not be supplied or more parts could be included). The race CDI works perfectly with all supplied parts under only ONE condition, racing at full throttle. Hope this helps.

so u gt any lobang or not

??

[voodoodoll]

Originally posted by FireSpitter@Nov 11 2006, 02:25 PM

Ported using Dremel, lathe or CNC?

my qus here is do u need or are u looking for a 2nd carb??

[Guest FireSpitter]

Originally posted by voodoodoll@Nov 11 2006, 04:19 PM

my qus here is do u need or are u looking for a 2nd carb??

Yes, I'm looking for a spare carb but my answer depended on how your carb was ported.

[Guest FireSpitter]

Originally posted by AH^_^PEK^_^LAH@Nov 11 2006, 04:16 PM

so u gt any lobang or not

??

Errr... I thought you would have better access to one-offs with your involvement in the A1 team? If you have any leads, share please!! I'm not too happy with my ignition curve.

[rycel]

im riding without a rear brake. yesterday i went to repair the guy said my racing footrest inside the brake spoiled. he change for me total 48bucks. i issit kana chop ar?

[YEN96]

Originally posted by rycel@Nov 11 2006, 07:00 PM

im riding without a rear brake. yesterday i went to repair the guy said my racing footrest inside the brake spoiled. he change for me total 48bucks. i issit kana chop ar?

pork chop lamb chop ckicken chop !

 

why u dun choose to be beef steaK ? strong good and er-hemmmmmm

 

moo - LOoooooooooooo

 

[compfused]

Originally posted by rycel@Nov 11 2006, 07:00 PM

im riding without a rear brake. yesterday i went to repair the guy said my racing footrest inside the brake spoiled. he change for me total 48bucks. i issit kana chop ar?

Didn't you just need a brake spring for the rear brake light indicator?

[rycel]

Originally posted by compfused@Nov 11 2006, 08:45 PM

Didn't you just need a brake spring for the rear brake light indicator?

compfused, initially i tot is my rear light cant work. then that night i rode to yishun dam to meet my friends, then i found out my rear brake not working also. i tried on the road no use then i tried stationary the bike still can move. very scary.

[AH_PEK_LAH]

Originally posted by FireSpitter@Nov 11 2006, 05:01 PM

Errr... I thought you would have better access to one-offs with your involvement in the A1 team? If you have any leads, share please!! I'm not too happy with my ignition curve.

 

i think those 2 to 3 hundred rm cdi i think is a waste of $$$$$ imho

 

gd things dun come cheap

[alvin8787]

any one can tell me ,how to know the belly is original or modified??i heard belly with mod can stop rusty problem??true??

[YEN96]

Originally posted by alvin8787@Nov 12 2006, 12:49 AM

any one can tell me ,how to know the belly is original or modified??i heard belly with mod can stop rusty problem??true??

YeS bro , an operated pipe will " slow down the rusting tremendously "

 

It will not totally stop but the rust will take super damn long !

 

Take a screw driver and tap on the belly.tap the area wif the biggest diameter.

 

Listen to the sound, it should sound hoLLow inside !

 

The theory behind the rust shld be due to immense heat dissipated by the OEM pipe. There is a huge " disc " and many many stopper inside.

 

Once operated and removed all these , the air will flow more easily and reduce heat blockage. Will fell the bike a bit more power also.

 

[YEN96]

Originally posted by alvin8787@Nov 12 2006, 12:49 AM

any one can tell me ,how to know the belly is original or modified??i heard belly with mod can stop rusty problem??true??

Bro > i suggest u keep the OEM original belly .

 

Go get the chamber belly and install on ur bike.

 

ANy brand PDK, AHM, TDK, YY-pang .

 

These pipes are power , the sound i tell u is :thumb:

 

more more power den an operated pipe also.

 

simple theory, these pipes are much lighter material and the air flow also different fr original pipe. These racing pipes has a "racer profile contour" for tip-top performance ! hehehehehee

 

[YEN96]

iF u got guts , den get the muffler also = FuLL system

 

 

den after that go port ur block , den change racing carb Keihin.

 

do settings , pilot jet main jet , set the air flow.

 

change reed valve petaLs boyesen

 

YOUR Bike is Good to Go !

 

ride safeLy

 

[AH_PEK_LAH]

Originally posted by YEN96@Nov 12 2006, 02:01 AM

iF u got guts , den get the muffler also = FuLL system

 

 

den after that go port ur block , den change racing carb Keihin.

 

do settings , pilot jet main jet , set the air flow.

 

change reed valve petaLs boyesen

 

YOUR Bike is Good to Go !

 

ride safeLy

 

erm stock also keihin carb le lah

[krazyfist]

Originally posted by FireSpitter@Nov 11 2006, 12:03 PM

A CDI is nothing more than a set of programs housed inside a little box. It's the intellectual property that went into it's programmed set of ignition timing (And in the instances of EFI engines, fuel mapping as well) that makes it costlier than the raw components.

 

What's the difference between a "performance" CDI & a stock one? A stock CDI was programmed for all stock parts in mind but with also a wide variating factor to:-

 

1) Be environmentally friendly

2) Fuel efficient

3) Friendlier power delivery

4) Cater for idiotic owners whom:-

i) Pump in wrong octane of petrol

ii) Does not replace or clean clogged airfilters

iii) Does not change engine oil during recommended periods

5) Less than ideal engine conditions (Tolerances, lubrication etc..)

6) Cater to manufacturing size differences

7) Cater to minor mods

8) Altitude & weather variances

 

In short a stock CDI does quite a bit, maintaining decent performance but retaining reliability despite harsh conditions (Especially on the owners' responsibility part).

 

A race CDI usually comes only with a full race kit including coil, magnet, pipe, block, carb, v.stack, airbox (Depending on the actual race kit model, some parts may not be supplied or more parts could be included). The race CDI works perfectly with all supplied parts under only ONE condition, racing at full throttle. Hope this helps.

woo..what a knowledge..it really helps bro... how about changing ur nickname to "father of kr"?..hehe...sounds nice...

[krazyfist]

Originally posted by YEN96@Nov 12 2006, 01:52 AM

YeS bro , an operated pipe will " slow down the rusting tremendously "

 

It will not totally stop but the rust will take super damn long !

 

Take a screw driver and tap on the belly.tap the area wif the biggest diameter.

 

Listen to the sound, it should sound hoLLow inside !

 

The theory behind the rust shld be due to immense heat dissipated by the OEM pipe. There is a huge " disc " and many many stopper inside.

 

Once operated and removed all these , the air will flow more easily and reduce heat blockage. Will fell the bike a bit more power also.

 

woo yen...u got knowledge too...hehe.. good2!!