Kawasaki KRR150 Riders

[terry84]

my bike always start no problem the rpm will stay constant at about 1.25 without having to throttle to stay but when i start moving to the next junction to stop, u guys noe lar either u kick neutral or maybe just down to gear one and clutch in rite? for me the rpm will be like suddenly dropp all the way to less than 1 and bye bye to the engine... damm pek cek and tis problem is only recently one. when i first collect my bike no such thing thks guys

[kawa]

mayb is yr bike didnt warm up properly,if nt try tune yr idling higher loh

[misterbean]

mayb is yr bike didnt warm up properly,if nt try tune yr idling higher loh

 

er ... wat's the proper way to warm up the bike?

 

cos there was a couple of times the engine went to sleep again a few secs after starting the bike. so far, i avoided this by opening throttle and holding at 2000-3000 rpm for around 10 secs after starting the bike. but dunno like that correct or not

[kawa]

u try open the choke when u start yr bike n try nt to open the throttle

[R3sistor]

my bike always start no problem the rpm will stay constant at about 1.25 without having to throttle to stay but when i start moving to the next junction to stop, u guys noe lar either u kick neutral or maybe just down to gear one and clutch in rite? for me the rpm will be like suddenly dropp all the way to less than 1 and bye bye to the engine... damm pek cek and tis problem is only recently one. when i first collect my bike no such thing

I've no problem with my bike... the way u describe ... i also have no idea... perharps u might want to bring down to yr motordiam to check. I am using the stock water battery though.

[DaXiGuA]

my bike always start no problem the rpm will stay constant at about 1.25 without having to throttle to stay but when i start moving to the next junction to stop, u guys noe lar either u kick neutral or maybe just down to gear one and clutch in rite? for me the rpm will be like suddenly dropp all the way to less than 1 and bye bye to the engine... damm pek cek and tis problem is only recently one. when i first collect my bike no such thing

 

 

i usually encounter this problem when i need to change spark plug...

[Guest Weilong]

encounter some problems with krr.........when i m in gear 2 ....i can feel that after i turn my trottle the fuel cant seem to inject like a bit slow ....feel like only certain fuel is injected n when open throttle more feel the fuel injected bit my bit.....i think problem with oil jet????any krr riders encouter this?

 

go bike shop do jetting...i had that prob before ..

[DaXiGuA]

 

er ... wat's the proper way to warm up the bike?

 

cos there was a couple of times the engine went to sleep again a few secs after starting the bike. so far, i avoided this by opening throttle and holding at 2000-3000 rpm for around 10 secs after starting the bike. but dunno like that correct or not

 

for me, in the mornings, i just on the choke and start the bike for a few mins, then before i move off, off the choke and go

[Guest Weilong]

hey, what's the max RPM u can drag for gear two? i only tried until 6k RPM, then i change liao, go until 6 like damn rough already.

 

 

go bike shop do jetting...i had that prob before ..

 

 

and one more thing guys, must keep sanding yr "muffer"(whichever way u spell it). It rusts all the time, see rust already must sand it and spray with High temp black spray hor!

 

never encountered before...

[misterbean]

thanks, kawa and DaXiGuA ... will try it tomorrow morning

[DaXiGuA]

thanks, kawa and DaXiGuA ... will try it tomorrow morning

anytime bro

KAWA KAWA

[terry84]

mayb is yr bike didnt warm up properly,if nt try tune yr idling higher loh

 

i tried on the idling already, but same thing even if i tune it up to more than 1.5 but last time i first get the bike no such thing one ley..looks like i have to bring it to motor diam check liao.. the feeling of every morning stopping on junctions and somemore need to rev rev and the best part every other motorist looks at you like a p-plate rookie trying to loot with them ok another enquire here, its been one mth liao and my 2t still alot only use like half only.. i bery scared wait piston jam. anyone knows how to tune 2t intake??

[kawa]

u welcome

[misterbean]

anyone knows how much engine oil is needed for KRR? thought of buying from elsewhere and get the shop to replace for me ... but not sure how much oil is needed each time.

 

is it true that gear oil is better than 4T engine oil for this bike?

 

thanks in advance!

[DaXiGuA]

anyone knows how much engine oil is needed for KRR? thought of buying from elsewhere and get the shop to replace for me ... but not sure how much oil is needed each time.

 

is it true that gear oil is better than 4T engine oil for this bike?

 

thanks in advance!

 

any fully syncnetic 4t is good enuff, usually ard 18-22

check ur spark plug too

the 4t used is around 750 ml i guess

[Noah]

Terry,

about your problem, in my opinion, should be 2 problems. One is the idling, and the other is the clutch. Your idling should be ok. Mine is about 1K RPM only with headlights on, so yours should have no problem. The other thing I can think of is your clutch lever is loose.

 

Look at your clutch lever. At the lever end is a knob or something, just look around. It's used to adjust the clutch cable tension. If the knob there is loose, you will be like half-engaging engine power; just adjust the tension properly and tighten the knob.

 

By the way, in case you didn't know, KRR no battery also can start the bike. Once started, the engine electrical generator takes over, and the battery, well, practically just sit there being charged up, no other use.

 

Some more tips. Dun try to throttle when you start. Not good for the engine. Use your choke. Switch on for about 3~5 seconds and then kick start. You may need to twist a bit of throttle, but just a bit will do, and off your headlights before you kickstart; the head lights can sap quite a bit of power from you spark plug. So dun start with your headlights on.

 

After you succeeded starting, leave the choke on for another 2~3 seconds for the engine RPM to pick up to above 2K RPM. Once you get past 2K RPM, engine should have no problem sustaining itself; switch off choke. At this point, dun try to switch on your headlight yet. Leave the bike to warm up naturally; dun throttle. About a minute or more later, can move off liao. Of course, you can switch on your headlights at this time.

 

Hope these helps. Enjoy with your companion.

 

 

 

i tried on the idling already, but same thing even if i tune it up to more than 1.5 but last time i first get the bike no such thing one ley..looks like i have to bring it to motor diam check liao.. the feeling of every morning stopping on junctions and somemore need to rev rev and the best part every other motorist looks at you like a p-plate rookie trying to loot with them ok another enquire here, its been one mth liao and my 2t still alot only use like half only.. i bery scared wait piston jam. anyone knows how to tune 2t intake??

[Noah]

Actually hor, the volume of 4T oil needed is machined onto the gearbox plate of your engine. It's somethign like 0.82l or something. One bottle (1litre) should be more than enough, with a bit of extra left for you to top up when the level gets a bit low.

[Noah]

Hi guys,

I have posted this question before, but I think I have to ask again. Has anyone here ever changed your headlight before ? I have a problem with my headlights; the reflector keeps melting.

 

First time is due to accident, my headlight bulb glass broke, burnt a hole in the reflector unit. So bought one from Ah Boy. But this time changed to blue H4 bulb. The blue bulb produces nice whiter light. But I think it's hotter than those normal ones, so my reflector started to melt again, until there was a hole in the top of the reflector unit. Then one day, it rained and the rain got through the hole and touched the bulb I think. The whole bulb exploded like a gunshot.

 

So thought maybe the reflector cannot tahan the blue bulb. Went back to buy another reflector and a normal H4 bulb. To my dismay, the reflector unit started to show symptoms of melting again. I think the reflector from Ah Boy cannot be used one. So lousy. They told me is original one some more.

 

Just came back from outside. There's a KRR with a reflector that I saw before on another KRR using blue H4 bulb. The reflector is white in colour, and doesn't have those silver mirrored reflective surface. Has anyone here used this type of reflector before ? Can you please tell me where to get that reflector ? Or can anyone tell me where to get a reflector unit that doesn't melt like those from Ah Boy ?

 

Thanks.

[terry84]

Terry,

about your problem, in my opinion, should be 2 problems. One is the idling, and the other is the clutch. Your idling should be ok. Mine is about 1K RPM only with headlights on, so yours should have no problem. The other thing I can think of is your clutch lever is loose.

 

Look at your clutch lever. At the lever end is a knob or something, just look around. It's used to adjust the clutch cable tension. If the knob there is loose, you will be like half-engaging engine power; just adjust the tension properly and tighten the knob.

 

By the way, in case you didn't know, KRR no battery also can start the bike. Once started, the engine electrical generator takes over, and the battery, well, practically just sit there being charged up, no other use.

 

Some more tips. Dun try to throttle when you start. Not good for the engine. Use your choke. Switch on for about 3~5 seconds and then kick start. You may need to twist a bit of throttle, but just a bit will do, and off your headlights before you kickstart; the head lights can sap quite a bit of power from you spark plug. So dun start with your headlights on.

 

After you succeeded starting, leave the choke on for another 2~3 seconds for the engine RPM to pick up to above 2K RPM. Once you get past 2K RPM, engine should have no problem sustaining itself; switch off choke. At this point, dun try to switch on your headlight yet. Leave the bike to warm up naturally; dun throttle. About a minute or more later, can move off liao. Of course, you can switch on your headlights at this time.

 

Hope these helps. Enjoy with your companion.

 

 

 

Noah, thks for everything i will try everything above today and btw can explain more on the clutch lever thing?? like how tight must i go and maybe more exact on the location(sorry im really bad at locating parts of my bike) and do i do tat with enngine started or not? really hope all these can save me a trip down to motor diam.... thks man.

[terry84]

i found the knob liao, but i turn my fingers clock wise means more free play on clutch and if i turn anti clock wise less free play. do u mean to have more free play or less?

[Noah]

Terry,

sorry about this but I dun remember which direction is which. You can adjust by trial and error and to suit your habit. But before that, you must verify something. When you found the knob and before you began fiddling with it, was the knob loose or tight ? If it's loose, chances are the knob might have worked itself loose during your riding and the clutch biting point have moved more to one end such that your engine is engaging the wheels even when you cutch in at 1st gear which causes your engine to run at very low RPM, until such a point that it shuts itself down because the RPM is too low.

 

But if the knob was tight when you found it, chances are it might not be what I thought it is. You'd be better off looking elsewhere for the source of the problem in this case.

 

If you have determined that the knob is the problem, try this:

 

Adjust the knob in one direction and start the engine. Pull in the clutch lever, and kick to 1st gear (be very careful when you do this and expect your bike to lurch forward).

 

If the engine doesn't stay alive, keep adjusting until you cannot adjust anymore; you'd know you are in the wrong direction. At this point you'll switch direction of adjustment. Normally, you will be able to sense wrong adjustment even before you reach the end.

 

When finally you got to the point where your engine can sustain, that will be the base point, and your engine is safe. Now, you'll adjust for biting point; Whith clutch lever pulled in, and at 1st gear, slowly release the clutch lever just like you do when you move off on your bike. At the point where the bike starts to move (biting point), notice your clutch lever. Are you comfortable with the lever at biting point ? Do you want to adjust the pointing such that it comes when you release more of the clutch lever or less ? Do the appropriate adjustment to suit your comfort.

 

That's all. Hope these help. Keep us posted on your condition. Good luck !

 

i found the knob liao, but i turn my fingers clock wise means more free play on clutch and if i turn anti clock wise less free play. do u mean to have more free play or less?

[misterbean]

off your headlights before you kickstart; the head lights can sap quite a bit of power from you spark plug. So dun start with your headlights on.

 

tried starting my bike just now without the headlights on ... so much easier! first kick and the engine roared to life!

 

thanks for the tips, bro

[Noah]

misterbean,

 

glad to be of help.

 

 

tried starting my bike just now without the headlights on ... so much easier! first kick and the engine roared to life!

 

thanks for the tips, bro

[Noah]

Hi guys,

anyone can help me with the melting headlight reflector problem I mentioned here earlier on ? No replies so far, so I am posting this plea again. Thanks !

 

[terry84]

hi guys do u know wat are the effects if 4t(orh yew) neber change for about mileage 4.5k other than gears hard to kick?