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Posted
Haha Jayz, for me right now the low beam has been okay for me already. Sometimes it doesn't on only after i press the ignition the low beam comes on liao. Could it be low battery? Because I saw the forum guys say spec 2 when low battery, when on the bike the meters & rpm will spin twice? I dun think spec I have bah..

 

i just change my bulb then ok liao. $15 for the normal h4 type.

Yamaha x1

Honda super 4 spec 1

 

:cheers:

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Posted
i just change my bulb then ok liao. $15 for the normal h4 type.

 

It is not the bulb problem la lol, normally shop do this to earn, else if they quote u $10 to fix the wire u will also dulan so might as well sell u one bulb to let u have the 'at least i spent $15 on a bulb' feeling haha, which bike shop u went to?

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss143/godsendworx/mesh/supporters/ldslds_siggy-1.gif

 

BY GODSENDWORX=)

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/305185-ldslds-GARAGE-SALES!!

Posted
It is not the bulb problem la lol, normally shop do this to earn, else if they quote u $10 to fix the wire u will also dulan so might as well sell u one bulb to let u have the 'at least i spent $15 on a bulb' feeling haha, which bike shop u went to?

 

haha! erm this thing is small problem lah. $15 i dont so kay gao. anyway now ok liao. i went U***** motorshop. you shld know right.

Yamaha x1

Honda super 4 spec 1

 

:cheers:

Posted
haha! erm this thing is small problem lah. $15 i dont so kay gao. anyway now ok liao. i went U***** motorshop. you shld know right.

 

HAHA ya i know, yup its actually alright since it is a confirmed thing that they will rectify the problem HAHA

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss143/godsendworx/mesh/supporters/ldslds_siggy-1.gif

 

BY GODSENDWORX=)

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/305185-ldslds-GARAGE-SALES!!

Posted
Hey guys,

 

My bike feels sluggish in its acceleration during the 1 to 4k rpm range. There is something like a engine boost at the 4k rpm range, and the bike feels more responsive and powerful after the 4k rpm, something like a delayed acceleration. I am not sure why this is so. Air and oil filters, spark plugs, engine oil have all been changed recently. Could the problem lie with the carburettor?

Likely to be ur carb, perhaps can try send it for a wash and tune? Hopefully is better after that :)

:cheer:

Glad to have u in my life : ) Always love one another!

Posted
Hey guys,

 

My bike feels sluggish in its acceleration during the 1 to 4k rpm range. There is something like a engine boost at the 4k rpm range, and the bike feels more responsive and powerful after the 4k rpm, something like a delayed acceleration. I am not sure why this is so. Air and oil filters, spark plugs, engine oil have all been changed recently. Could the problem lie with the carburettor?

 

Nothing to do wif ur carbs.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Care to enlighten?

 

"Air and oil filters, spark plugs, engine oil have all been changed recently"..air and oil filter has nothng to do with it. Plugs ok and eo depends. Could just be ur clutch biting point and change slack. If ur carbs got problem..it's across the board from low rpm to high..no such think as 1-4k rpm.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Biting point and chain slack no problem. Can I tune my carb to get better low-end power to solve this issue? Will that sacrifice higher-end power though?

 

Never heard of carbs being tune for such..its normally tuned for correct air/fuel ratio and adjust for synchronisation among the four. You may want to only adjust the idling to at least 1.5 (when engine is hot) for better "pick off"...assuming ur idling now is too low like 1-1.2k rpm.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Ah Pek , my Showa oil liking .......

Market price 2hand is how much .....

Bmc and k&n filter which one better for V2 ...

 

Ah boy jln besar sell bmc $68 and k&n $55, how to comfrom

Which one is original can check ?

Outside sell bmc $110 and k&n $95

Ah Pek help .......

Posted
Ah Pek , my Showa oil liking .......

Market price 2hand is how much .....

Bmc and k&n filter which one better for V2 ...

 

Ah boy jln besar sell bmc $68 and k&n $55, how to comfrom

Which one is original can check ?

Outside sell bmc $110 and k&n $95

Ah Pek help .......

 

For ur Showa..I assume u talking about back suspension..go to Teck Thye No.12 Bradell road..look for David and have it rebuild at $240 for botrh units. @nd one should set u back about $300 to $350 depending on conditions.

 

There is no such thing as which filter is better..all Hi-flow does not give u better performance as claimed (IMHO). No doubt they does specified filter of air and provide faster volume flow to contain ur air box capacity...the carbs setting for air is ALWAYS fixs. You decide. As for pricing for these stuff..sorry bro..not into the business, can't say much or tell the difference..if u need an answer, all I can say is "can use can olehdee lah".

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Ah Pek , my Showa oil liking .......

Market price 2hand is how much .....

Bmc and k&n filter which one better for V2 ...

 

Ah boy jln besar sell bmc $68 and k&n $55, how to comfrom

Which one is original can check ?

Outside sell bmc $110 and k&n $95

Ah Pek help .......

 

For ur Showa..I assume u talking about back suspension..go to Teck Thye No.12 Bradell road..look for David and have it rebuild at $240 for botrh units. @nd one should set u back about $300 to $350 depending on conditions.

 

There is no such thing as which filter is better..all Hi-flow does not give u better performance as claimed (IMHO). No doubt they does specified filter of air and provide faster volume flow to contain ur air box capacity...the carbs setting for air is ALWAYS fixs. You decide. As for pricing for these stuff..sorry bro..not into the business, can't say much or tell the difference..if u need an answer, all I can say is "can use can olehdee lah".

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

For ur Showa..I assume u talking about back suspension..go to Teck Thye No.12 Bradell road..look for David and have it rebuild at $240 for botrh units. @nd one should set u back about $300 to $350 depending on conditions.

 

There is no such thing as which filter is better..all Hi-flow does not give u better performance as claimed (IMHO). No doubt they does filtering well and provide air faster in volume flow to contain ur air box capacity...the carbs setting for air is ALWAYS fixs. Its only valid when u need more air/fuel ration when you modified jetting. For routine commuting..its useless..but perhaps the advantage is that they are reuseable. You decide. As for pricing for these stuff..sorry bro..not into the business, can't say much or tell the difference..if u need an answer, all I can say is "can use can olehdee lah".

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

any tips to self spray crash bar? mine is rusty. what kind of paint shld i buy? spray how many layer/times? i want blue color btw. steps to do it? steps to disassembled the crash bar? sry i nv diy b4, so gonna try it soon! experience something new!

Yamaha x1

Honda super 4 spec 1

 

:cheers:

Posted

Ahlo ! guys , i need some parts, the engine cover for the right and left side. i know the left side is the magnetic coil cover not quite sure what the right side cover is called.

 

I also need an original pair of signal lights.

 

Stupid hit and run is a blow in your pocket.

Posted
any tips to self spray crash bar? mine is rusty. what kind of paint shld i buy? spray how many layer/times? i want blue color btw. steps to do it? steps to disassembled the crash bar? sry i nv diy b4, so gonna try it soon! experience something new!

 

self spray not easy... recommend you go shop do... crash bar only shouldnt be too expensive..

 

Easy lah, bro. Only consideration is whether or not you have the space to hang the bars after you've painted it to let it dry. Now is not a good time to spray, by the way. It's been raining everyday so will take longer time for the paint to dry.

 

Just undo/loosen all the bolts on the crash bar. If any bolt is difficult to undo, spray WD40. Leave the bolt that is attached to the chassis nearest to your seat to the last. Remove U-bolt first at bottom. Then remove the front bolts. The crash bar will now be hanging off the bolt near the seat. Use your knee or leg to balance the crash bar as you undo the nut for the last bolt. Crash bar is now off the bike.

 

Repeat for other side.

 

Use sandpaper to remove the old paint. Use 000 grade sandpaper for fine/smooth finish. After removing old paint, wipe with a damp (not wet) cloth. Let it air dry for a while.

 

Steal a clothes hanger from your mom. Cut it to fashion a "S" hook so you can hang the crash bar from the hook. Make the hook about 5-6 inches long so you won't spray your hand when spraying.

 

Spray time: Use S-hook to hand crash bar from one of the bolt holes. Use the one which was nearest to the seat so you can spray the rest of bar more easily. Start spraying. Most important point about spraying is to follow instructions on the can on how far the can should be from what you are spraying. Keep moving the spray can over the crash bar as you spray. What you want to see is very fine droplets on the surface as you go along. If you hold the spray can too long in one spot, the paint will be too thick and will start to drip. Spray as even as possible. Best finish is to apply one light coat. Let it dry. Spray a 2nd coat. Then spray with clear coat if you want to finish.

 

Have fun!

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted
Easy lah, bro. Only consideration is whether or not you have the space to hang the bars after you've painted it to let it dry. Now is not a good time to spray, by the way. It's been raining everyday so will take longer time for the paint to dry.

 

Just undo/loosen all the bolts on the crash bar. If any bolt is difficult to undo, spray WD40. Leave the bolt that is attached to the chassis nearest to your seat to the last. Remove U-bolt first at bottom. Then remove the front bolts. The crash bar will now be hanging off the bolt near the seat. Use your knee or leg to balance the crash bar as you undo the nut for the last bolt. Crash bar is now off the bike.

 

Repeat for other side.

 

Use sandpaper to remove the old paint. Use 000 grade sandpaper for fine/smooth finish. After removing old paint, wipe with a damp (not wet) cloth. Let it air dry for a while.

 

Steal a clothes hanger from your mom. Cut it to fashion a "S" hook so you can hang the crash bar from the hook. Make the hook about 5-6 inches long so you won't spray your hand when spraying.

 

Spray time: Use S-hook to hand crash bar from one of the bolt holes. Use the one which was nearest to the seat so you can spray the rest of bar more easily. Start spraying. Most important point about spraying is to follow instructions on the can on how far the can should be from what you are spraying. Keep moving the spray can over the crash bar as you spray. What you want to see is very fine droplets on the surface as you go along. If you hold the spray can too long in one spot, the paint will be too thick and will start to drip. Spray as even as possible. Best finish is to apply one light coat. Let it dry. Spray a 2nd coat. Then spray with clear coat if you want to finish.

 

Have fun!

 

thanks for the tips! anyway ill be meeting pandora's kitten this week. will be learning some diy from him!

Yamaha x1

Honda super 4 spec 1

 

:cheers:

Posted

hey guys,

 

had a mini accident a couple days back. i think i can DIY all the damage cept for this one part. the speedometer (only the speedometer, not the RPM meter) gauge is sticking out of its socket. the big screw that holds it in place to the housing behind the headlight has come off together with the gauge. anyone know where i can get this fixed at a reasonable price? any help will be appreciated. thanks!!

Most motorcycle problems are a result of the nut that connects the handlebar to the saddle

 

:thumb:

Posted
hey guys,

 

had a mini accident a couple days back. i think i can DIY all the damage cept for this one part. the speedometer (only the speedometer, not the RPM meter) gauge is sticking out of its socket. the big screw that holds it in place to the housing behind the headlight has come off together with the gauge. anyone know where i can get this fixed at a reasonable price? any help will be appreciated. thanks!!

 

UM can do it

:angel:RIDE TO BE A GHOST RIDER:angel:
Posted

hey guys,

 

anyone tried the exhaust header wrap?. was thinking of doing it for the aesthetic value la. But not really sure if its good for the engine.

I have been doing some research, apparently it keeps the exhaust warm/hot therefore increasing velocity of airflow.

 

A drawback was that it ****s up the headers with rust problem after a prolonged period of wrapping.

 

Does anyone have any suggestions ?

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