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Posted

@Giggskills

Sounds like you have 2 separate issues here. First is cooling system. @mild_slevin has already given the troubleshooting steps.

 

I would also add that it's not a good idea to have a fan by-pass switch. From your post, I understand that you fitted the switch so you can switch off the fan when your legs get too hot. If you do this, the engine will surely over-heat and you will end up spending more $ on repairs.

 

Another way to check if the coolant jackets in the engine block is leaking is to check your engine oil. Partially drain out some engine oil into a clean pan and look at the colour. If it looks like teh tarik, then there is a leak in the block.

 

Carbon on plugs

The other issue is your carbon build up on the spark plugs. You've mentioned that after cleaning and tuning your carb, your No 1 plug is ok. Now it's the No 3 plug.

 

Carbon build up is usually due to un-burnt fuel, in other words the carb setting for that piston is too rich. This would also account for the loss of power because when there is too much fuel, it won't burn properly. Poor combustion in one piston affects overall power output. After some time when most of the excess fuel is burnt, the spark plugs begin to fire properly in that piston again. That's why you'll suddenly feel the power being restored.

 

Did your mechanic service only that one carb or all four? Were the carbs synchronised/balanced? If not, I suspect doing this should solve the problem. Hopefully... :)

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

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Posted

Carb Synchronisation

 

I haven't seen this gadget being used by local mechs. Guess that's why they say carb tuning is an art... :thumb:

 

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted

Hi ramsnake and mild_slevin

 

Gosh you guys sure know your stuffs. Im really thankful for the tips you guys have given me.

 

Im gonna get the stuufs that you guys mentioned, checked by the mech and get back to you guys with the result.

 

Hope i won't get chop too much for it though..

 

Thanks again guys...

 

Btw ramsnake the mech serviced all for carb.

Posted

Hi ramsnake and mild_slevin

 

Gosh you guys sure know your stuffs. Im really thankful for the tips you guys have given me.

 

Im gonna get the stuufs that you guys mentioned, checked by the mech and get back to you guys with the result.

 

Hope i won't get chop too much for it though..

 

Thanks again guys...

 

Btw ramsnake the mech serviced all for carb.

Posted
this few days i notice that my engine area have oil stain.

any recommendation where to do repair?

[ATTACH=CONFIG]233437[/ATTACH]

 

I would like to know also! what is the checklist to engine maintanence? timing chain? valve clearance? how much to do all this?

LICENCES

class 2B: 07sep06 (cg125, nsr150, cbf150, x1r, ta200)

class 3: 30apr07 (Mitsubishi lancer, Nissan sunny, Toyota corolla, Volkswagen golf tsi)

class 2A: 27may08 (revo, vtec1, majesty250)

class 2: 08jun10 (fz6n, GSX-R600L4, tmax530)

Posted
Hi ramsnake and mild_slevin

 

Gosh you guys sure know your stuffs. Im really thankful for the tips you guys have given me.

 

Im gonna get the stuufs that you guys mentioned, checked by the mech and get back to you guys with the result.

 

Hope i won't get chop too much for it though..

 

Thanks again guys...

 

Btw ramsnake the mech serviced all for carb.

 

I'm a petrol head, so I like to know about cars & bikes in general... :angel:

Besides, its good to have a general knowledge as bikers for safety reasons. The more we know, the better we are at making sure our bikes are tip-top for a safe ride.

 

Since all your carbs were serviced, then they may just need to be synchronised. *fingers-crossed* for u... :)

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted

If you are 25 year old and above. Go directasia ask for insurance. damn cheap. 300+ only i think. i Checked mine only 290+ But too bad im 24 yo only. LOL

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Posted

My bike is leaking engine oil near the side stand on the left. very minimal.

Mech advice to change water pump and spocket seal that are causing the leak.

Is it true? cos kinda costly. Hope to get some advice here. thanks!

Posted
My bike is leaking engine oil near the side stand on the left. very minimal.

Mech advice to change water pump and spocket seal that are causing the leak.

Is it true? cos kinda costly. Hope to get some advice here. thanks!

 

You have the option to replace the oil seal in the coolant pump. In the coolant pump..there are two seals..one for water and one for oiy (bigger). Unless ur coolant system is bad like coolant boiling etc..than change the whole pump..otherwise, you can just change the seal. If eo is quite new..drain and contain them so that it can be reuse.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Thanks ahpek for the advice. anyway, whats the price range for changing the oil seal alone?

And about the spocket seal, is it necessary to change as well? mech mention that changing the spocket

seal requires to open up engine which is like top overhaul(proper way), but can be done by just removing the seal

and replace new seal with silicon or something.

Posted
Thanks ahpek for the advice. anyway, whats the price range for changing the oil seal alone?

And about the spocket seal, is it necessary to change as well? mech mention that changing the spocket

seal requires to open up engine which is like top overhaul(proper way), but can be done by just removing the seal

and replace new seal with silicon or something.

 

Personally I know of gear shaft seal can can be replace for $8-$12 parts and workmanship and this is quite common for old bikes. Oil dripping on the floor is about 5 cents to 10 cents coin size. As for spocket seal..I ain't too sure but its about $35 or slightly more to do..but not an overhaul fee. Charges varies as it depends on overhead r ental and employee cost of the mototiam. But what important here is that u may be quoted or told the unnecessary change of things. In ur case..it can only be 1) Oil Seal for sproket 2) Oil seal for coolant pump (cost of seal is about $15 but labour say may be $30) 3) Or your gear shaft seal. I suggest u go to a few bike shop and asked to get a more conclusive fault identification b4 parting with ur $$s.

 

The thing I know is that if its gear shaft seal bad..the oil leak is very minor...coolant pump seal is heavier and sprocket seal...I never heard of it...ha....x3..we are talking about the main primary drive shaft seal which by far never come across it leaking.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hi bros, a newbie here

 

i just bought myself a version s , i thought the bike was fairly good with not so ex repairs. thinking maybe 500 bucks

 

but when i went to the workshop

 

i understand the fork need to change: cause of some jialat scratches

engine may be cracked : cause the hose at the bike use like a rubber seal as water may enter.

the speedometer needs to change cause spoil: stuck at 60km/h

one of the pipes is like bloated: not sure why

must change "timing belt": i think its called that cause when the engine is cold and you on. can hear like ting ting sound

read brake haus.

 

total cost is like i think 1k plus.. heart pain man. can someone please advice

 

how do i know if the fork really must change

the cost of a speedometer

the rough cost to change timing belt.

and cost of changing the pipes, brakes and all.

 

i really sad seh . today waiting quotation from him

Posted
Hi bros, a newbie here

 

i just bought myself a version s , i thought the bike was fairly good with not so ex repairs. thinking maybe 500 bucks

 

but when i went to the workshop

 

i understand the fork need to change: cause of some jialat scratches

engine may be cracked : cause the hose at the bike use like a rubber seal as water may enter.

the speedometer needs to change cause spoil: stuck at 60km/h

one of the pipes is like bloated: not sure why

must change "timing belt": i think its called that cause when the engine is cold and you on. can hear like ting ting sound

read brake haus.

 

total cost is like i think 1k plus.. heart pain man. can someone please advice

 

how do i know if the fork really must change

the cost of a speedometer

the rough cost to change timing belt.

and cost of changing the pipes, brakes and all.

 

i really sad seh . today waiting quotation from him

 

 

herm... wat i usually do.. is to run around a few bike shop to ask for the 'professional' opinion... for me... i prefer going to planet... coz all this will be using the more affordable methods to solve....

TA 200'02 | JUN 2008 - JUN 2010

S4 SPEC3'07 | JUN 2010 - MAY 2012

FZ6 S2'07 | MAY 2012 - CURRENT

 

http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/af70/heskeydal/signature1.jpg

Posted
hmm any particular mechanic i should look for?

 

for planet... look for AHCHONG ah...

TA 200'02 | JUN 2008 - JUN 2010

S4 SPEC3'07 | JUN 2010 - MAY 2012

FZ6 S2'07 | MAY 2012 - CURRENT

 

http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/af70/heskeydal/signature1.jpg

Posted
awesome! thanks so much bro! =)

 

herm... u have the address and contact... jus side note.. if u can take the 'dirtiness' of their work.. den shld be fine... lolz...

TA 200'02 | JUN 2008 - JUN 2010

S4 SPEC3'07 | JUN 2010 - MAY 2012

FZ6 S2'07 | MAY 2012 - CURRENT

 

http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/af70/heskeydal/signature1.jpg

Posted
awesome! thanks so much bro! =)

 

herm... u have the address and contact... jus side note.. if u can take the 'dirtiness' of their work.. den shld be fine... lolz...

TA 200'02 | JUN 2008 - JUN 2010

S4 SPEC3'07 | JUN 2010 - MAY 2012

FZ6 S2'07 | MAY 2012 - CURRENT

 

http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/af70/heskeydal/signature1.jpg

Posted
just now went to bikeworkz no tick sound so they cant rectify the prob , boss say most likely is shims no worry , but just now the sound came back

so i record it using my phone to see any of u guys know wats the prob >.

 

hi guys, i also hear this sound on my specII. Anyone know what is the problem? The mechanic at the shop where i bought the bike told me it's normal, will not affect ride.

Posted

I recently chg my rear wheel bearing. Now i realized that my rear wheel is not spinning

Continously when the wheel is off the ground. is it because of new bearings, or brake pad? Or is it

Normal? And my bike can move slowly when i play with my clutch and no throttle. Normal?

i think i'm in love with a Bol'dor.

Posted
Guys wanna ask, how much roughly to change coil?

Magnetic coil ard $300

LICENCES

class 2B: 07sep06 (cg125, nsr150, cbf150, x1r, ta200)

class 3: 30apr07 (Mitsubishi lancer, Nissan sunny, Toyota corolla, Volkswagen golf tsi)

class 2A: 27may08 (revo, vtec1, majesty250)

class 2: 08jun10 (fz6n, GSX-R600L4, tmax530)

Posted
I recently chg my rear wheel bearing. Now i realized that my rear wheel is not spinning

Continously when the wheel is off the ground. is it because of new bearings, or brake pad? Or is it

Normal? And my bike can move slowly when i play with my clutch and no throttle. Normal?

Normal ah just like manual car u release yr clutch slowly without stalling also can move especially when doing parking.

The wheel spinning shld be yr pad

LICENCES

class 2B: 07sep06 (cg125, nsr150, cbf150, x1r, ta200)

class 3: 30apr07 (Mitsubishi lancer, Nissan sunny, Toyota corolla, Volkswagen golf tsi)

class 2A: 27may08 (revo, vtec1, majesty250)

class 2: 08jun10 (fz6n, GSX-R600L4, tmax530)

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