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[Archived - 2009] PK Official- Questions for Newbie


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Posted
:( he told me no stock, maybe have to wait few months.. he did paperwork for you? like those erm to LTA or sth de? actually I wonder if car's IU is the same as ours? I recently went the whole of UBI and DEFU to ask for bike's IU like no one selling...tough luck.. west area any shop selling cheap?? or amk? budget around 50 or 60 w/paper work done :cheeky:

 

aiya i now advise ppl buy new IU lah...cuz the IU i bought from chong 3mths back broke...so i sianz juz buy new one to settle all my future fustration

Go as far as you can see; when you get there, you'll be able to see farther.

J. P. Morgan

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Posted
lol no way, haha I think if can't get I just skip going into CBD area lo..I hardly go there anyway, except for my anni I went in to get sth special :)

 

 

 

I'd say YELLOW!! if it was in the choices :thumb:

 

Oh sorry, I'm referring to cable connection... nvm, i've found out liao...

 

White to Red

Blue to Blue

Black to green... :cheeky:

Be a master of your habits, or they will master you...

Don't let the crowd pressure you, stand for something or you'll fall for anything...

Don't be a show off when you drive, drive with safety and arrive...

God Bless all riders...

Posted
From neutral, its 1 gear down, 5 gears up. Total 6 gears.

Clutch and gears are absolutely two different things. ALL TA200 has 6 gears. Its not possible for a mechanic to remove one.

 

 

These prices sound reasonable to me.

 

bro heard from bro jordanspy, his bike actually had only 4 clutch plate wen he wen in to change the clutch plate...the bike could still move though...

Go as far as you can see; when you get there, you'll be able to see farther.

J. P. Morgan

Posted
This type of parts. -> Lim Ah Boy.

definetly you can get better price there

 

yup checked with him today... $45 for the front brake disc with installation..

 

i'll kiv till later maybe 2 mths later cos my brake disc is still quite shiny and abit worn out only.

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Posted

Hey guys,

 

Some noob questions!

 

1) Please enlighten me on what the Engine Run/ Off switch is for on the throttle handle bar. What does it do?

 

2) Also, what help would it be if I turn the petrol knob below the key slot from 'On' to 'Off' when bike is not in use? This morning I heard small pop pop pop sounds when I m engaged in gear 1. Is this kind of minor backfire okay?

 

3) Any recommendation for budget/ honest bike shops in the East area.. near simei for servicing??

 

Thanks!!

Posted

1) That's the engine kill switch. Use it to cut off the engine quickly in case of emergencies. I'm surprised you don't know this...tot driving center will teach?

 

Many folk use the kill switch to switch off their bikes after a ride, but this is inadvisable. The damage you cause your engine is similar to throwing your clutch when the bike is stationary and allowing the engine to die. So, use it only in emergencies. Normal riding use ignition to switch off.

 

2) Backfiring is related to your air-fuel ratio. If you're popping, you're running too rich. Switching the knob from on to off helps if you got ppl with itchy hands in your carpark twisting the throttle when your bike is parked; your carb won't get flooded that way.

 

3)There's this shop near the safra...starts with Y but i can't remember the name liao...lol

Postman Eating Inc*

 

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Posted

my friend got into accident b4, the bike shop ppl only like physically force twist it back straight that's all. unless parts are broken

Posted
Many folk use the kill switch to switch off their bikes after a ride, but this is inadvisable. The damage you cause your engine is similar to throwing your clutch when the bike is stationary and allowing the engine to die.

 

For real?!! Damnnnnnn.

I have the best signature.

Posted

OMHFG!! is it ok to slowly release the clutch when I'm at gear 1 ? cuz I do this on slopes when parking or sth.. thank god I don't use the switch often

Posted

Hi there, got a question to ask about engine oil.. I now riding TA200.. situation is like this..

 

I have an oil change 2 mths ago and from the oil change till now, I've travelled ard 1800km aft the oil change. At first, aft the oil change, the engine was quiet and acceleration was smooth. However, as the distance travelled gets closer to 2000km, the engine becomes more noisy and it seems harder to reach speeds above 100km/hr, unless u dun mind the noise and vibrations.. Izzit the oil has gone thinner tat's y engine is noiser?

 

I was thinking of changing oil at 2500km. But now I've onli travelled 1800km and the engine is so noisy. I've checked the engine oil level and it's normal. I would like to find out:

 

1) Will using fully syn oil helps in the situation mentioned above? I'm currently using semi-syn oil.

 

2) Is adding 1.3Ltr of engine oil contributes to this problem? I always added 1.3 Ltr coz there was 1 time i forget to check my oil level when I added 1Ltr.. Turn out the oil drained out was way below 1 Ltr.

 

3) Is changing oil at 2500km too long? Are the symptons mentioned above normal when the oil has been used for some time? If it's normal, then I'll wait till 2500km then go for oil change..

 

Thanks guys for ur help.. Have a nice day..

Feb 06 till Present - Phantom TA200 Custom 4

Sometimes Results may be Disappointing, but it's never Discouraging..

Posted

When u feel your engine is noisier and not as smooth as before, its a sign u need to change your EO. Dun wait, running on expired EO isn't healthy for your engine.

If u dun like to change EO too often, use a good grade fully syn den. Will definitely last longer than semi-syn.

 

I used to buy 2 bottles of EO, put 1.2L in and keep the rest for the next change. Some shops will keep for u though.

Posted

Hi there, got a question to ask about engine oil.. I now riding TA200.. situation is like this..

 

I have an oil change 2 mths ago and from the oil change till now, I've travelled ard 1800km aft the oil change. At first, aft the oil change, the engine was quiet and acceleration was smooth. However, as the distance travelled gets closer to 2000km, the engine becomes more noisy and it seems harder to reach speeds above 100km/hr, unless u dun mind the noise and vibrations.. Izzit the oil has gone thinner tat's y engine is noiser?

 

Ans: The most common yardstick is rather, has ur gear changing been hard to engage as oppose to noise...

 

 

I was thinking of changing oil at 2500km. But now I've onli travelled 1800km and the engine is so noisy. I've checked the engine oil level and it's normal. I would like to find out:

 

1) Will using fully syn oil helps in the situation mentioned above? I'm currently using semi-syn oil.

 

Ans: Fully synthetic for a transport bike from home to office abit overkill, unless its a new bike say less den 2yrs, but if u got the cash u can still use it...

And not forgetting to choose the correct viscosity level for ur EO, use 10W40 more then enuff, unless u racer or endurance runner den u use 15W50

 

 

2) Is adding 1.3Ltr of engine oil contributes to this problem? I always added 1.3 Ltr coz there was 1 time i forget to check my oil level when I added 1Ltr.. Turn out the oil drained out was way below 1 Ltr.

 

Ans: 1.2L max...adding too much will result in sluggish engine response and also affects ur FC.check ur dipstick every 1000km to make sure its within e criss cross boxes

 

3) Is changing oil at 2500km too long? Are the symptons mentioned above normal when the oil has been used for some time? If it's normal, then I'll wait till 2500km then go for oil change..

 

Ans: Normal oil change routine for phantom by RIGHT is 3000km, but alot play safe and choose to change at 2000km mark, so ur still safe bro

 

Thanks guys for ur help.. Have a nice day..

Go as far as you can see; when you get there, you'll be able to see farther.

J. P. Morgan

Posted
1)

Many folk use the kill switch to switch off their bikes after a ride, but this is inadvisable. The damage you cause your engine is similar to throwing your clutch when the bike is stationary and allowing the engine to die. So, use it only in emergencies. Normal riding use ignition to switch off.

 

 

What is the source of this?

 

Like heard from mechanic?

 

Im surprised as if it is not something to use regularly why would manufacturer place it nicely there.

 

And u say that damage caused is the same as throwing in the clutch to let engine die when bike stationary....If u at neutral and u use the kill switch there is no gears or clutch plate engaging....so what is the damage?

 

Bro not flaming.... just very curious about where u get the info from. :thumb:

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Posted
OMHFG!! is it ok to slowly release the clutch when I'm at gear 1 ? cuz I do this on slopes when parking or sth.. thank god I don't use the switch often

 

If your engine is not running of course it's okay. I'm talking about when you're running your engine, for instance, and you're stationary...and you throw clutch. Your bike will lurch forward then die wat. That's wat i mean.

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Posted
What is the source of this?

 

Like heard from mechanic?

 

Im surprised as if it is not something to use regularly why would manufacturer place it nicely there.

 

And u say that damage caused is the same as throwing in the clutch to let engine die when bike stationary....If u at neutral and u use the kill switch there is no gears or clutch plate engaging....so what is the damage?

 

Bro not flaming.... just very curious about where u get the info from. :thumb:

 

I heard it from several mechanic sources. The damage done is not on the gears or clutch plate, but rather your con rod. Imagine, at idling, your piston is going through roughly 1000rpm, and that's 16.67 cycles your con rod turns per second. When you throw clutch, the weight from your rear wheel forces the piston to stop as the intertia is greater than the force your engine is generating (coz never open throttle). Thus, picture a piece of metal (your con rod) going at a speed of 1000rpm smoothly and then suddenly being forced to stop quickly. The strain on your con rod is immense. The same thing happens when you use your engine kill switch. This is also why many people who like to flick their engine kill switches to backfire experience engine problems and even broken con rods; it's not so much of the backfiring itself as it is the strain the con rod is subjected to when you kill the switch (from high revs to a quick stop) and when you switch it on again (from slowing down to a quick stop to high revs again).

 

There's a reason why it's called the emergency cut off switch, and it's placed accessibly so you can reach it easily in case of an emergency (ie your fuse didn't work and some part of your wiring has caught fire while you are riding...and you wanna cut everything off immediately).

 

Switching off your ignition will allow your piston to cycle down, subjecting your con rod to less strain. The more skeptical of you folk may want to try listening to the sound the bike makes when you use the kill switch (you should hear a sharp 'kiak') and when you switch off the ignition (you should feel the piston slowing down to a stop...occasionally there is a 'kiak' sound but its much softer than when you use the engine kill switch)

 

I know many of you have been doing this la...I myself used to do it during my 2B days. But my mechanic friends told me to stop...initially justifying their advice as 'we know u so long liao, won't give you advice for nothing..just trust us', and then later giving me an abbreviated explanation that I expanded above. Up to you to believe or not. If you continue doing, and nothing happens...good for you.

 

Just my 2 sen

 

p.s. If your reasoning is 'if manufacturers put it so conveniently (nicely) it's meant to be used regularly', then how u explain the crap position of the ignition in the earlier versions of the phantom? lol...

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Guest @h_püi™
Posted

wanna ask... which type of glove is good and suitable for phantom rider?

 

cos most of the glove i saw is like for racing usage... and will look funny if use it while riding a phantom.. no offence as i know it have good protection but just wanna look for something normal for a cruiser... thanks alot

Posted

It's ok one wat. Most of the time the good, comfy and protective gloves look sporty anyway. I'm wearing my Alpinestars black label when I ride my phantom...used to wear the MX-5...but spoil liao. You can try Dainese too. The 'racing' stuff are the best because they are made for folk who need the most protection when riding, and I think it's a good investment. I have around 5 pairs of gloves, different levels of comfort, different levels of protection...but you need not go to this extent la.

 

You want 'look for cruiser', just go to ah boy ask him for leather 1/2 finger gloves. Think $5...Zeal brand or something. But leaves the upper ends of your fingers exposed. If you ask me, it does contribute to the 'cruiser look'...but it's about as protective as other 'cruiser look' items like leather vests (instead of riding jackets), bandannas (instead of helmets), steeltoe boots (instead of proper riding wear) etc etc.

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Posted

I have 3 pairs of gloves:

 

1) Komine brand from Motoworld. This are just plain fabric gloves with rubber on the palm for traction. No armour but extremely comfortable. Would roughly fit the tab for 'cruiser' gloves

 

2) Alpinestars SMX-3. The nicest looking of my gloves. Rubber/leather type armour, comfortable and flexible. My favourite thus far.

 

3) Brandless gloves I bought at a roadside stall in korea. These are sturdy semi leather gloves with carbon-fibre knuckles. Stiff and not very comfortable, but can be considered armour gloves. Partial mesh material at fingers, so the circulation is unexpectedly good. If I wear for night riding, my fingers will get cold.

BlackDawn aka kiamh

"There is no man more free than the one who doesn't give a damn what society thinks of him"

Posted

Bro Metalfyre, i actually tried it yesterday, many times... And the 'kiak' sound's a lot louder and unhealthier when i off ignition :/

 

AhPui, there are many non-racing influenced gloves out there... Get what you think fits you most :)

I have 2 pairs of half-finger gloves with carbonfibre knuckles.

I have the best signature.

Posted
Hi there, got a question to ask about engine oil.. I now riding TA200.. situation is like this..

 

I have an oil change 2 mths ago and from the oil change till now, I've travelled ard 1800km aft the oil change. At first, aft the oil change, the engine was quiet and acceleration was smooth. However, as the distance travelled gets closer to 2000km, the engine becomes more noisy and it seems harder to reach speeds above 100km/hr, unless u dun mind the noise and vibrations.. Izzit the oil has gone thinner tat's y engine is noiser?

 

Ans: The most common yardstick is rather, has ur gear changing been hard to engage as oppose to noise...

 

Reply: Hmm.. Actually my gear changing has been normal.. not hard to engage.. It's the noise tat irritates me.. Realli telling me tat the oil is thinner as compared to before..

 

I was thinking of changing oil at 2500km. But now I've onli travelled 1800km and the engine is so noisy. I've checked the engine oil level and it's normal. I would like to find out:

 

1) Will using fully syn oil helps in the situation mentioned above? I'm currently using semi-syn oil.

 

Ans: Fully synthetic for a transport bike from home to office abit overkill, unless its a new bike say less den 2yrs, but if u got the cash u can still use it...

And not forgetting to choose the correct viscosity level for ur EO, use 10W40 more then enuff, unless u racer or endurance runner den u use 15W50

 

Reply: My bike is less than 2 yrs old (New bike). Does using semi-syn suitable for my bike?

 

2) Is adding 1.3Ltr of engine oil contributes to this problem? I always added 1.3 Ltr coz there was 1 time i forget to check my oil level when I added 1Ltr.. Turn out the oil drained out was way below 1 Ltr.

 

Ans: 1.2L max...adding too much will result in sluggish engine response and also affects ur FC.check ur dipstick every 1000km to make sure its within e criss cross boxes..

 

Reply: Oh.. Maybe I added too much liao.. Coz scare tat the oil falls below the normal level.. If check dipstick, must start the engine and let it idle b4 checking, or can check it without starting?

 

3) Is changing oil at 2500km too long? Are the symptons mentioned above normal when the oil has been used for some time? If it's normal, then I'll wait till 2500km then go for oil change..

 

Ans: Normal oil change routine for phantom by RIGHT is 3000km, but alot play safe and choose to change at 2000km mark, so ur still safe bro

 

Reply: wah.. 3000km is using fully syn or semi syn oil? Fully syn will take longer time to "thinnen" rite? Wat shld we do if we experience the same symptons as me? The increase in engine noise and vibrations issue..

 

Thanks hamsterwhale and chikyblink for ur help..

Feb 06 till Present - Phantom TA200 Custom 4

Sometimes Results may be Disappointing, but it's never Discouraging..

Guest @h_püi™
Posted

actually i looking for those low cut glove with knuckles protection.. saw motorworld website selling a RS taichi brand Rubber Knuckle Protection Mesh Glove... not sure whether is it good..

 

anyway which shop sell all kind of glove that i can go there and browse thru other then LAB.. cos LAB all keep inside.. also can;t see all the brands they selling.. thanks

Guest
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