[Group] SUZUKI GSR 400/600

[Just_Rider]

Like that use "SC1" from Maxima ,its a spray on like WD40

 

Read it here

 

diao~.. -_-"

seem fierce too~..

[Misbs7]

Bros n Siss:

Hope this info helps:

 

I didnt open/clean my front sprocket cover since i bought my ride back in 06/2007. Today, when the mech opened it to change, i witness in horror the cumulative built-up sludge n what-not that was trapped inside. In all, he scrapped out roughly half-fist sized dirt/sand/grime/grease. then he used petrol wif brush to clean it thoroughly b4 installing the new 1. Took him a full 15 mins to do that.

No wonder my stock chain got kaput relatively fast. I believe the chain keep picking up the grime mixture into itself n caused self-destruction.

 

Lesson learnt n hope to share: Open to check/clean inside the front sprocket cover regularly n clean the whole drive-chain assembly for that matter. Esp if like me working in constn site- pick up sand every time road surface is wet.

It definitely will prolong the life of the chain n sprockets.

 

Am getting the paddock stand fast n start a regular check/clean program.

 

Thanx bro for the info

Btw i just wanna add that the manual actually recommend us to clean the chain every 1000 km...

 

mine is like in between 1 - 0.. like half... past few days keep whacking then suddenly like that.. then its like sometimes stationary will auto engine die off... ZZZ

 

Its normal thing to happen, just need to check every 1000km, mine set exactly at 1, cause too much will consume more fuel when idling... But 1200-1400 is still ok... Please take note that the idle speed should be adjusted with the engine fully warmed up...

 

Like that use "SC1" from Maxima ,its a spray on like WD40

 

Read it here

 

[Misbs7]

Guys i have this GSR Maintenance Chart in Excel format the one in the manual page 18 of 483 (PDF Format)... I just done it... So if anyone want it can leave me ur e-mail so i can e-mail it to u... I use it as a log book which means what ever modification or service i have done i will note down together wif the price for easy reference... Of cause u all can customize on ur own...

[Misbs7]

dudes, just asking about brake lines..

 

venhil, hel, swager, etc. are there any much diff bet the brands besides the price? am thinkin of changing to steel braided line, but cant decide on which one to get.

 

also, i've hit 1000km, time to change eo, are there any particular brands i should ask for the mineral oil, or it's a standard thing? and are there any other things i should be changing at this point?

 

For the mineral oil mostly is the same... If tis ur 1st EO change then u need to change ur Oil Filter too...

[GSR00]

Guys i have this GSR Maintenance Chart in Excel format the one in the manual page 18 of 483 (PDF Format)... I just done it... So if anyone want it can leave me ur e-mail so i can e-mail it to u... I use it as a log book which means what ever modification or service i have done i will note down together wif the price for easy reference... Of cause u all can customize on ur own...

 

At hme sibei free har when ur Baby coming out wor

[skateboy]

dudes, just asking about brake lines..

 

venhil, hel, swager, etc. are there any much diff bet the brands besides the price? am thinkin of changing to steel braided line, but cant decide on which one to get.

 

also, i've hit 1000km, time to change eo, are there any particular brands i should ask for the mineral oil, or it's a standard thing? and are there any other things i should be changing at this point?

depends on wat u like. most popular is hel. venhill is popular among the GSRs oso. venhill's line fitting, its a swivel head. hel is tighter. do check for the pricing n installation price as well b4 deciding which one to take.

 

ur 1st oil change is 1000km? mineral oil is all the same. they r the lowest quality oil as the r for running in purpose. remember to change oil filter.

[Misbs7]

At hme sibei free har when ur Baby coming out wor

 

hehehe... Quite sometimes i want to do it but no tym, last night then managed to do it....

 

My baby ok ready just the exhaust no stock because our GSR bro here already bought it

[IvikaRazI]

Actually running in need engine oil viscosity of 50. so if got money can use the high end one like Maxima 15W50. hehehe. The purpose of using mineral oil is that the oil change is very frequent so to save money use it lor.

 

I myself is running in..got 400km to go before changing to high end EO. Very torturous, always kena overtake by cars and small bikes. Heart pain!!!

[Guest motofreak]

Relax bro, u have to tame the beast b4 u unleash it...

[Murinus]

ok... here's my review after changing engine oil

 

Previously i was using maxima extra 15w50. Just changed to maxima extra 10w40 last saturday. The bike feels more responsive and eager to accelerate. Not as sluggish compared to last time. These could purely be psychological but i think i will be sticking to this oil from now on.

 

The only bad thing is that not many places carry the 10w40 version so its harder to find.

[levin]

The only bad thing is that not many places carry the 10w40 version so its harder to find.

 

 

Can reveal where u find it? And any package deal?

[skateboy]

Actually running in need engine oil viscosity of 50. so if got money can use the high end one like Maxima 15W50. hehehe. The purpose of using mineral oil is that the oil change is very frequent so to save money use it lor.

 

I myself is running in..got 400km to go before changing to high end EO. Very torturous, always kena overtake by cars and small bikes. Heart pain!!!

hmmm..... running in, mechs recommand only mineral oil. not sure y. think its about picking up of all the metal chips which synthetic oil is not as good. but nevertheless, its the rider's choice.

 

after run in, it time u torture the others.

 

ok... here's my review after changing engine oil

 

Previously i was using maxima extra 15w50. Just changed to maxima extra 10w40 last saturday. The bike feels more responsive and eager to accelerate. Not as sluggish compared to last time. These could purely be psychological but i think i will be sticking to this oil from now on.

 

The only bad thing is that not many places carry the 10w40 version so its harder to find.

extra 15W50 oil is too thick thats y bike is sluggish n very unwilling to accelerate. 10W40 whereas is thinner n lighter in terms of SAE. but one bad point about SAE40 oil is it thin out faster than the SAE50. meaning to say, recommanded oil change is about 4000km n not 5000km. not forgetting our gear box which needs thicker oil shares the same oil as the engine. i'm using ultra 5W50, so far is ok. not as bad a 15W50. but compare to extra 10W40, i'm not sure.

 

mustafa shd have extra 10W40. K&T i oso saw it.

[ivanmania_10]

yoshi.. u think can take back the deposit from motorworld? i kind of tired of waiting for the pipe...

[skateboy]

for reading purposes. its long but beneficial.

 

Question by William_liu

What are the differences between the Extra and Ultra oils? (other than the viscosity and price of course!)

 

Which oils will you recommend for which kinds of bikes? (E.g: Single, air-cooled vs multi,liquid-cooled, etc etc)

 

 

Ultra oils are based on polyol esters, a more exotic grade of the ester family while more common are the dibasic esters. According to MaximaUSA, they're a family of special low friction esters, found only in top end racing oil because it is very expensive. This polyol ester's property contributes to the more extreme temperature tolerance, higher VI (which explains for the 5W rating) and better lubricity.

 

 

 

Ultra also contains organic moly which is an extremely potent antiwear Extreme Pressure additive. Now many wet clutch specced oils have steered clear of moly because it is so slippery (see the antiwear comparison article at the advertiser board), but the best race oils still add them in carefully determined amounts because it is hard to beat Moly as a EP additive, it protects during the most vulnerable moments of startups.

 

The low down is that wet clutch is actually tolerant of some degrees of Moly, just that in practice, it is impossible to cater 100% to machines in all conditions of wear and tear. Once in a while, a manufacturer may introduce clutch materials that are extremely sensitive to Moly, and result in slippage, one such make is the Suzuki Bandit. Which is why run of the mill motorcycle oils just avoid it all together than try to explain to users who refuse to believe their machine is the problem or the manufacturer screwed up. Ultra, being a race oil, is expected to be used in race machines with race specced clutch pack and springs, slippage should not be an issue at all. In reality, only a handful of bikes have issues, the Director of MaximaUSA has assured me that they have tested this oil extensively with OEM eqpt and no issues with the vast majority of bikes.

 

It is hard for me to recommend what oils to go with what bikes, both Ultra and Extra works for all bikes, you really just need to choose the viscosity that you like or know to work well with your bike. I have interesting experience of bike that does not shift well with thin, slicker oils, but my own R6 works excellent with 40 grades, better than the 50 grade in general. Alot has to do with the intricacies of the gearbox design, so if you're not willing to take the risk of trying something different, stick with what works for you.

 

However, I will still say, in general, try the 40 grades for fast revving late model inline4, you'll love the revvy response but will need to understand bike will be slightly noisier, the mechanical noises will be more obvious, but it is normal. Engine oil is also a coolant! Bikes will have heat exchangers, either oil to air or oil to water coolant. A thinner oil runs cooler, and helps to conduct heat away from hot surfaces better. If you're comfortable with a thicker oil like FUCHS Pro4 15W50, give the Extra 15W50 a shot. Hotter bikes like V twins or singles also favour the Extra 15W50. The Ultra 5W50 is a very thin 50 grade oil, good for supersport machines owners that don't want to go down to a 40 grade.

 

Question by Al-demon

if maxima is an "overkill" with the anti-wear properties, can I say that it would be able to last a much longer distance? say more than 5000km before I do an oil change

since most bikers here (generally) change fully syn engine oil at around 4000-5000km mark

 

A top quality motorcycle oil differentiates itself by offering top levels of shear resistance by using expensive ester and PAO base oils. The main killer of oil in motorcycle is mechanical break down of the base oil itself by the transmission. Cheaper formulations (like most car oils) that uses alot of viscosity improving polymers with 'synthetic' hydrocrack or semi synthetic base do not stand up to the abuse. The result is an oil that thins rapidly into service resulting in premature roughness.

 

Besides a robust base oil, oil change intervals depend on several other factors, many of which are case by case factors depending on the bike in question, the mechanical condition and how it is ridden.

 

Fuel dilution is the other main cause of engine oil deterioration, and this is closely related to engine design and condition, particularly piston ring seal and how the machine is used. Poor ring seal forces petrol and combustion byproducts into the crankcase during compression and combustion, contaminating the oil. Short trips results in the engine oil not getting hot enough to evaporate off the volatile contaminants, hence rendering the oil out of spec eventually. Acids also accumulate from the blow by gasses.

 

Maxum4 Extra is suitable for extending drain interval according to MaximaUSA. Antiwear additives are last line of defence, protecting against startup wear and metal/metal contact surfaces. It will continue to protect well beyond 5k of typical operation at such concentrations. However, this is assuming no premature contamination as mentioned above, something only the end user can assess.

 

As an ex fleet operations engineer, my experience is that commercial/industrial extended drain programs are always couple with rigourous oil testing to check on the condition of the oil, either on each machine or representative sample fleet. Alot of things can happen to shorten the drain interval. Without detailed analysis, it is not appropriate for me to make any recommendations specifically for your machine, but you can definately expect the same if not better from Maxum4 fully syn 4T compared to your previous 4T.

 

Q) Engine Oil Viscosity, what should I use for my bike? What should I expect?

 

A little background info on how to read engine oil visc

Typical engine oil specs are represented by xxWyy. xx represents the viscosity of the oil measure at very low temperature, and yy represents the the viscosity measured at 100 degree celcius. The xxW rating is obviously redundant in sunny Singapore, meant for countries which experience freezing temperatures. In Singapore, 0W to 20W are commonly found and are acceptable for all makes (see your manual).

 

Pay attention to the second number, eg. in 15W50, 50 is the number that will determine how the bike will feel, sound and its temperature This second indicator of viscosity is measured at 100 deg C. This is because oils, being polymers, thins out considerably with heat. 100 deg C is a convenient temperature to gauge the oil because it is closer to the engine internal operating temp. A 50 grade oil will be thicker than a 40 grade oil, the smaller the number the thinner it is.

 

But wait! That's only the tip of the iceberg. Brand A oil (15W50) may not be the same thickness as Brand B oil (also a 15W50). Why? This is because '50' is a pretty large range of thickness. This is why some 'racing oils' rated at '50' feels really revvy and noiser than a regular '50'

 

http://www.picturesky.com/albums/userpics/11699/Oil%20Visc%20Chart.jpg

 

To help your selection of your prefered thickness of Maxima four stroke engine oils the relative thickness of Maxima Oils are presented:

 

Thin 40 SAE---Extra 10W40, Ultra 5W40

Thin 50 SAE---Ultra 5W50

Regular 50 SAE---Extra 15W50

 

Take note that the _W grade does not affect how 'thick' the oil feels once warmed up. This comparison is taken at 100C, close to engine operating conditions.

 

In general:

Choose a thicker oil if you rank engine and gear shift quietness as the top of your piority.

Choose a thinner oil if you rank responsiveness and cooler engine as the top of your priority.

 

Is thicker better all the time?

 

The 60 weight is too thick for most applications except some low rpm big bore singles or twins or for engines that specifically call for such grades.

 

Bike 4T requirements involves catering for the gears and the engine. While the 60 will offer good protection and durability for the gears, the effect is not necessarily so for the engine main bearings, crank and piston pin bearings. This is especially so for high rpm engines. enHANZed is right, the thinner oil cools better and that is a major function of engine oil, but it also compromises on the gearbox a little. That's where the antiwear additives must take over.

 

All the journal bearings (plain bearings) are separated from the spinning shaft (main crank, cam shaft eg) using hydrodynamic priciples. The effect is further enhanzed by the relative movement of the 2 surfaces (shearing action) that compresses the oil. A thin oil may not have that much static film strength as a thicker oil, but it can take much more pressure at high rpm. But the shearing action generates heat, which is never good.

 

There must be sufficient flow to cool down these journals. Now the oil pump, being a positive displacement pump (like the engine cylinder itself), will give a proportionate flow rate to engine rpm, so there should be no problem right? But this also means it will hydrolock if too thick an oil is use (cold winter morning), hence a pressure relief is built in to bleed off pressure and oil flow, meaning reduced flow to where it should be protecting.

 

So imagine using an overly thick oil at high rpm. You get excessive pressure in the system from pumping the thick viscosity and lots of heat from the journals. Sufficient flow isn't getting to the bearings to cool things down. Either the oil temp continue to rise until an equilibrium is reached where the oil is thin or the engine spins a bearing and self destruct.

 

The Jap inline 4 typically built for 30 to 40wt. 50 is acceptable and popular for bikes because of the gearbox. Maxima Extra 15w50 (17.42 cst) is only 21% thicker than a medium 40 and is a popular choice for compromise between durability in our hot weather and yet meeting the cooling requirements of the engine.

[GSR00]

My baby ok ready just the exhaust no stock because our GSR bro here already bought it

 

Cant use the old 1 n ride 1st? Who buy from motorworld wor?

 

yoshi.. u think can take back the deposit from motorworld? i kind of tired of waiting for the pipe...

 

U also waiting? How long le.. heard take about 2 months

[Misbs7]

Cant use the old 1 n ride 1st? Who buy from motorworld wor?

 

 

 

U also waiting? How long le.. heard take about 2 months

 

I thought of using it 1st but scared later my shop dont want to replace it...

 

Who buy ah?

[ivanmania_10]

so long meh? i place deposit at 27th December. The person said can take within Jan.. now going to end of Jan liao... if really so long i gonna fk their backside upside down.. lolz

[EJ]

call them up and ask.

 

back in may i ordered and paid for my ermax windshield. the guy told me they'll get the stock by end june. i forgot all about it, i only came across the reciept when i was looking through my wallet at mid july. i called motoworld and they told me they got the stock. i asked why didnt they call. 2 words, "forgot, sorry!"

 

to me, no harm done; and i still patronize motoworld though. just recently splurge on perilli tyres again.

[GSR00]

I thought of using it 1st but scared later my shop dont want to replace it...

 

Who buy ah?

 

if can use, y not? ur shop wont be so smelly ba? So after replace e new ones.. where the old one go to?

[IvikaRazI]

Actually running in need engine oil viscosity of 50. so if got money can use the high end one like Maxima 15W50. hehehe. The purpose of using mineral oil is that the oil change is very frequent so to save money use it lor.

 

I myself is running in..got 400km to go before changing to high end EO. Very torturous, always kena overtake by cars and small bikes. Heart pain!!!

 

Sorry that I have to re quote myself. I juz remember that running is using oil viscosity of 40 not 50. Needs thinner oil. Anyway do not need to worry about oil too thin. New bikes, the holes very tight. Viscosity of 40 will do fine. I will also changing to viscosity of 40. Only maybe after a few years will change to viscosity of 50 since 'longgar' already, need thicker lubrication. hahahha.

 

Anyway, in the end its more to preference.

[finalsurprise]

Sorry that I have to re quote myself. I juz remember that running is using oil viscosity of 40 not 50. Needs thinner oil.

 

Anyway, in the end its more to preference.

 

ok so i'm safe la, yesterday did my first oil change, asked for mineral, the guy gave me 10W40.

 

anywayz, is anyone using the Power Abuser here? need to know more bout it.

[IvikaRazI]

Anyone got any idea the GSR400 model got something similar to Power Commander? Been trying to find. Ask Power Commander, then they say in US no GSR400 so never make them. Haiz.....

[Misbs7]

if can use, y not? ur shop wont be so smelly ba? So after replace e new ones.. where the old one go to?

 

yesterday i went to my workshop but it is already closed cause i reached there 7:40pm... I should go there again next week...

 

The old one ah? I also use ah... so got 4 Yoshi 4:4 lor....

No lah... tis one u dont ask me cause abit complicated but once i got it replace then i will ask for it....

[skateboy]

ok so i'm safe la, yesterday did my first oil change, asked for mineral, the guy gave me 10W40.

 

anywayz, is anyone using the Power Abuser here? need to know more bout it.

power abuser is like a voltage stabilizer. stablise current in the bike system.

 

Anyone got any idea the GSR400 model got something similar to Power Commander? Been trying to find. Ask Power Commander, then they say in US no GSR400 so never make them. Haiz.....

GSR600 PC3 if not wrong can b used on GSR400. cos everything is the same less the bore n piston. but need to re-map the PC3 cos currently the mapping is for GSR6.

[AhGui]

Pay more for mapping lo....

 

Btw, to our dear bro Z^^kia...

 

Have a great bday... HAHAHA