DIY Chain Oiler

[gilbe3]

Scottoiler oil also fling out wan. In fact, it is better to overoil abit cos the oil loosen the small sand particles and dirt on the chain. Hence when the oil gets flung out, the dirt also flies off to Holland... :angel:

[feeufee]

Some questions on the oiler:

 

1) What kind of oil do you use? ENgine oil / gear oil?

 

2) The regulator is suppose to be at the end, or anywhere on the line?

 

3) If i am not wrong, the 'metal plate' on the sprocket must be removed so that the tube can feed the oil onto it?

 

Just want to include a tip, if you want a tight connection between the tube and the connectors, heat up the rubber tube before slotting in it.

[gilbe3]

1. Any oil will do lah. Gear oil will be thicker and less likely to fling. If you like, you can also use original scottoiler oil.

 

2. I followed Limsteel's method: Oil bottle, regulator, on/off switch and the 'tongue' at the sprocket....in that order.

 

3. If you do not want to remove the 'metal plate' like my S4....what I did was to oil on the other side of the sprocket.....BUT make sure the tube with the metal do not drop across the chain!!!!!!!! How to make sure? Besides the cable ties, I use a bare wire to loop round the tube to the swing arm.

 

Happy DIY....you will love it when it works....and you will be laughing all the way to the bank.....

[Limsteel]

i think there is a reason for scottoiler lah. maybe the oil they use also got reason one. i am using "DIY" type of oiler too. I find that it is kind of messy/oily on the swing-arm. got 1 time, i say big oil drip out near my shifter level. i though die liao, engine oil leak. now i come to think of it, it must be too many oil use on the chain that it goes to the small spoket and start dripping. becos it didnt drip the next day.

 

(if it is engine oil leak, then the next day should be still dripping mah).

 

just for info sharing only.

 

The driping of oil does happen, but very little if your oil flow is low, Likely you have high oil flow rate.

 

As the oil drip on the rear sprockets, Oil will be fling off backwards during the U-Turn back to the driving sprockets. While at the front sprocks, most of the oil will be thrown off as the force is greater there. This leaves only a thin film on the chain.

 

So it is normal to see an oil drip or 2 but not a puddle! if there is a puddle you should see oil stain on your rear Tire & Rim, rear fairing and some might fly onto your brake disc! DANGER! UNLESS you drip your oil at the top portion where the chain is returning to the front sprocket. So most of the oil will be thrown off at the engine area. Then I will agree.

 

Anyway, I am on this oiler for 2yrs+, didn't remember adjusting my chain tension. Also keeps my chain clean (fresh lube every few min!) really a cheap piece of equipment to invest in (little cash and some elbow grease!! )

 

I didn't trial and error using high oil flow setting. NOT GOOD! a ride round my neighbourhood, I find oil on my Tire, Rims, under my seat, swing arm, chain guard, rear brake lost effectiveness, even my rear shock also oily.

 

SO REMEMBER, LOW FLOW! 1 or 2 drops a min (never more)

[Aalex82]

That why this is a DIY sub forum... not a place to sell DIY stuff @ $25

 

I am always willing to help, not by doing it for you. I can help you help yourself!

 

anyway here is the list of things need (tools wise pls be creative and use what ever necessary)

 

Oil reservior - any container big enough for you and small enough to fit where ever you wanna put (GSR can only use those Film container under the seat)

 

Oil line - go to fish shop get those rubber hose meant for air pump. buy a metre or two

 

Valves - while at the fish shop, buy a regulator valve (usually green), an On/Off valve (those metal ones), and a few connectors (1 in 1 out). all are air pumps accessories

 

Hanger - sneak one metal cloth hanger out of your home. (or any flexible metal rod thin enough to go thru the air tube without choking.

 

Glue - expoxy and silicon (slow process). super glue (fast and effective)...

 

cable ties...

 

All set to go...

- Puncture a hole on the container and push the regulator valve (glue)

- connect and run the oil tube down to along the side fairing.

- oil tube should Emerge at the foot paddle area. put in the on/off valve.

- Unwind the cloth hangar, push it through the air tube. Then bend it according to the path to the rear sprocket. This will serve as the bone of the oil line, without it the rubber tube cannot retain the shape. Connect to the on/off valve.

- Then using the small section WD40 application tube (up to your judgement). attached to the plastic connector (1 in - 1 out extention) use glue to secure.

- now attach the connector to the end part of the oil line.

- Top up the oil into your oil reservoir, fully open both valves. suck on the end of the oil line. this is to start the oil moving, once the Oil flow starts, let gravity do the work! ENSURE THERE IS NO AIR TRAP ALONG THE OIL LINE, else the oil flow rate will be erratic. once the oil is about to reach the sprokets close on/off the valve.

- now fine tune the shape of the oil line and secure to swing arm using several cable tie (2 or 3 not too many, it will look ugly)

- Finally place a can under, open the on/off valve. Using the green regulator fine tune the oil flow. BE PATIENT ensure only 1 drop or less a min (take your time to do this, you can still tune it during day to day riding). TOO MUCH FLOW, you will see oil everywhere on your bike!

- Ultimately, your will get the oil flow you want... drop a few drops of super glue on the regulator valve screw thread and make it a permanent setting!

 

End! any questions can pose here, I believe many here can help!

 

Some people might be interested in Dual oiler , buy a Y connector (1in - 2out, also at fish shop). connect them to lube side of the sprockets HO SAY LIAO!

 

i hav a oiler wif mi for a year plus le..

is gd.. dun require often tighten of chain tension..

but i find that the green valve or the metal valve will leak thru its little gap..

so i use the orange and black valve as there is a rubber seal around the knot to prevent oil leak..

[gabriel06]

Some questions on the oiler:

 

1) What kind of oil do you use? ENgine oil / gear oil?

 

2) The regulator is suppose to be at the end, or anywhere on the line?

 

3) If i am not wrong, the 'metal plate' on the sprocket must be removed so that the tube can feed the oil onto it?

 

Just want to include a tip, if you want a tight connection between the tube and the connectors, heat up the rubber tube before slotting in it.

 

i think that the heating wont work, as this is not heat shrink tubing.. unless u say heat it up den use some sort of metal wire to twist it round the end..

 

heating would otherwise just expand it..

[feeufee]

It will work with rubber hose. Tried it million times with them. To have a super tight fit, select a slightly smaller diameter hose, heat it up and push the connector in. Sometimes u will have to cut the hose if u want to remove the connector after it cools down. Try it!

[gabriel06]

It will work with rubber hose. Tried it million times with them. To have a super tight fit, select a slightly smaller diameter hose, heat it up and push the connector in. Sometimes u will have to cut the hose if u want to remove the connector after it cools down. Try it!

 

have u tried it with rubber hose or air hose as per said in the above posts? and a million times.. wow your sure one busy man..

 

there is only one fixed diameter for air hose readily available in fish shops..

 

and the connectors are made specially for those air hose with that diameter.

 

care to share where to get ur "slightly smaller diameter hose" ?

[Nighthawk_250]

There 2 or 3 types of hose and flexibility with the same diameter.

 

The homefix DIY shop in marina square have a lot more hose type at that diameter, all diff hardness and flexibility.

 

I believe the harder type is good for heat and fit.

[Limsteel]

Aquarium does have different grade hoses...

Bur White, greenish, bluish - very soft

clear - mid stiffness (I am using this one)

Black - Hard and stiff (for pressurised co2 usage) this is more expensive and harder to find. the above 2 is very common.

 

All are of similar diameter, even if there is a difference, it is very slight.

[greysnail]

Guys juz wanna ask,if airtight,how the oil gonna flow?i've juz did mine but haven't fixed yet.Stuff i kapo from werk except the oil container.Do i need to make a small hole to release the vacuum or juz let it be.coz even with gravity pull,if there's a vacuum,the oil won't flow rite?

[gilbe3]

Yep, you got it right 'flying snail'.....you can use a heated small needle and poke a small hole somewhere near the top of the oil bottle. Hope you succeed....

[feeufee]

have u tried it with rubber hose or air hose as per said in the above posts? and a million times.. wow your sure one busy man..

 

there is only one fixed diameter for air hose readily available in fish shops..

 

and the connectors are made specially for those air hose with that diameter.

 

care to share where to get ur "slightly smaller diameter hose" ?

 

Ok, I was exaggerating, only tried it for about 5689 times.

 

There are many types of rubber hoses, the normal transparent types will be more suitable for heating and you can also see if your oil is travelling down the tube.

I think it would be safer to get the valves you require and then look for the hoses. And the outlets for the valves would have to be similar so you only need to buy one type of hose. The fish shop should have compatible hoses and valves. If not try hardware stores. For a selection of hoses, go Kelantan Lane, the road behind Ah Boy shop, under one of the HDB blocks, there is one shop that sells all kind of hoses for industrial use. You will most probably find something suitable.

Hope this helps....

[gabriel06]

Ok, I was exaggerating, only tried it for about 5689 times.

 

There are many types of rubber hoses, the normal transparent types will be more suitable for heating and you can also see if your oil is travelling down the tube.

I think it would be safer to get the valves you require and then look for the hoses. And the outlets for the valves would have to be similar so you only need to buy one type of hose. The fish shop should have compatible hoses and valves. If not try hardware stores. For a selection of hoses, go Kelantan Lane, the road behind Ah Boy shop, under one of the HDB blocks, there is one shop that sells all kind of hoses for industrial use. You will most probably find something suitable.

Hope this helps....

 

i see..

 

but just to inform others that not ALL hoses are suitable for your

"heating" method...

[Limsteel]

Updates... base on my maintenance record, my previous chain only lasted 1yrs 9months...

 

Using this oiler, it has been 2½yrs, My sprocket & chain still OK, worn but not worn out...

[gtsr]

That why this is a DIY sub forum... not a place to sell DIY stuff @ $25

 

I am always willing to help, not by doing it for you. I can help you help yourself!

 

anyway here is the list of things need (tools wise pls be creative and use what ever necessary)

 

Oil reservior - any container big enough for you and small enough to fit where ever you wanna put (GSR can only use those Film container under the seat)

 

Oil line - go to fish shop get those rubber hose meant for air pump. buy a metre or two

 

Valves - while at the fish shop, buy a regulator valve (usually green), an On/Off valve (those metal ones), and a few connectors (1 in 1 out). all are air pumps accessories

 

Hanger - sneak one metal cloth hanger out of your home. (or any flexible metal rod thin enough to go thru the air tube without choking.

 

Glue - expoxy and silicon (slow process). super glue (fast and effective)...

 

cable ties...

 

All set to go...

- Puncture a hole on the container and push the regulator valve (glue)

- connect and run the oil tube down to along the side fairing.

- oil tube should Emerge at the foot paddle area. put in the on/off valve.

- Unwind the cloth hangar, push it through the air tube. Then bend it according to the path to the rear sprocket. This will serve as the bone of the oil line, without it the rubber tube cannot retain the shape. Connect to the on/off valve.

- Then using the small section WD40 application tube (up to your judgement). attached to the plastic connector (1 in - 1 out extention) use glue to secure.

- now attach the connector to the end part of the oil line.

- Top up the oil into your oil reservoir, fully open both valves. suck on the end of the oil line. this is to start the oil moving, once the Oil flow starts, let gravity do the work! ENSURE THERE IS NO AIR TRAP ALONG THE OIL LINE, else the oil flow rate will be erratic. once the oil is about to reach the sprokets close on/off the valve.

- now fine tune the shape of the oil line and secure to swing arm using several cable tie (2 or 3 not too many, it will look ugly)

- Finally place a can under, open the on/off valve. Using the green regulator fine tune the oil flow. BE PATIENT ensure only 1 drop or less a min (take your time to do this, you can still tune it during day to day riding). TOO MUCH FLOW, you will see oil everywhere on your bike!

- Ultimately, your will get the oil flow you want... drop a few drops of super glue on the regulator valve screw thread and make it a permanent setting!

 

End! any questions can pose here, I believe many here can help!

 

Some people might be interested in Dual oiler , buy a Y connector (1in - 2out, also at fish shop). connect them to lube side of the sprockets HO SAY LIAO!

 

after reading this thread inspire me to make my own oiler.

i draw a layout. is it correct?

pls give some advise thks

 

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2008-7/1317350/chainoiler.JPG

[Limsteel]

Correct... I gave up the WD40 tube liao... I direct the air tube with the connector directly to the sprockets. after a while the connector form the shape..

[holymax7]

WOW.Thankks man!

[gtsr]

almost everything done but the epoxy glue i used seems like will never dry at all...

feels sticky after 2 days left to dry

i use the portion 1 to 1 as stated on back of cover.

i missed out something important? or is there any trick to using that?

[Aalex82]

almost everything done but the epoxy glue i used seems like will never dry at all...

feels sticky after 2 days left to dry

i use the portion 1 to 1 as stated on back of cover.

i missed out something important? or is there any trick to using that?

 

there are diff types of epoxy glue..

u try left it longer for the curing..

[kinwei]

almost everything done but the epoxy glue i used seems like will never dry at all...

feels sticky after 2 days left to dry

i use the portion 1 to 1 as stated on back of cover.

i missed out something important? or is there any trick to using that?

 

Either harderen spoilt or not enough.

[IceZ]

hi guys, juz installed a scotoiler...

Check wif u guys...can we replace stock oiler with EO?

[dragonforce]

heard of pple pouring eo instead of oiler before.. only problem is eo flings.. will dirty your rims..

[max_nhk]

You can mix eo with chain wax to make it stickier. I'm using a normal chain wax mixed with gear oil, ratio about 1:5.

[IceZ]

hmmm...indeed the EO is finer...try the sewing machine oil...so far i the results is gd