[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

[ORen]

hey guys,

wad advised by guy doing MO for K&N filters to come check with you guys this thing...

 

I'm riding a pulsar 200, it's 3 years old, on the website it says pulsar 200 regardless of the model year (e.g. 2007, 2008) the K&N air filter i should be using is the BA-2201. Is that correct? Any of you using K&N BA2201 in your pulsar 200s?

 

Also, read on some indian bajaj forums that after they install the K&N air filter, that their air filter warning signal flashes constantly. Anyone experienced this too?

 

Thanks as always guys.

 

To add to what MJ said, I ride a P200, been using that filter for about a year I think, and never had any air filter warning, didn't have to unplug anything.

So maybe it depends on some batches of P200

[alvinyansg]

hey guys,

wad advised by guy doing MO for K&N filters to come check with you guys this thing...

 

I'm riding a pulsar 200, it's 3 years old, on the website it says pulsar 200 regardless of the model year (e.g. 2007, 2008) the K&N air filter i should be using is the BA-2201. Is that correct? Any of you using K&N BA2201 in your pulsar 200s?

 

Also, read on some indian bajaj forums that after they install the K&N air filter, that their air filter warning signal flashes constantly. Anyone experienced this too?

 

Thanks as always guys.

 

To add to what MJ said, I ride a P200, been using that filter for about a year I think, and never had any air filter warning, didn't have to unplug anything.

So maybe it depends on some batches of P200

 

 

here is the logic why it will light up...

pulsar filter sensor detects clog or dirty filter by light/dark shades on the stock sponge filter...

when filter is dirty, it will be darker shade and hence the warning light will light up...

when using protec or knn filter, the filter colour is darker and hence the sensor detects it as clogged/dirty filter...

2 ways to handle this...

1 unplug the sensor, 2 use a light pc of paper/foam to cover the filter sensor...

o'ren is also correct...

cause each individual bike is different...

[SC Gaban]

hey guys,

wad advised by guy doing MO for K&N filters to come check with you guys this thing...

 

I'm riding a pulsar 200, it's 3 years old, on the website it says pulsar 200 regardless of the model year (e.g. 2007, 2008) the K&N air filter i should be using is the BA-2201. Is that correct? Any of you using K&N BA2201 in your pulsar 200s?

 

Also, read on some indian bajaj forums that after they install the K&N air filter, that their air filter warning signal flashes constantly. Anyone experienced this too?

 

Thanks as always guys.

 

be warned. an indication means that ur bike is going to blow up.

[m0bIlEnErD]

MJ celebrates 21st Birthday with the Pulsar Family

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]238296[/ATTACH]

 

Getting long winded with age. Lol...

[ORen]

Tried to fix the fork brace but didn't succeed.

It seems that the alignment of the bolt holes on one screw is no taking into account the space used by the fork.

I managed to bolt in 3 screws, but then the last one wasn't aligned and couldn't fit.

I did not try to force too much, or move around the pieces to find a fit: I was afraid it would scratch the fork paint.

I did this in a sort of a dark place so I will try again tomorrow, this time, using some sticker tape to cover the fork to avoid scratches.

 

The brace with the Allen key to separate all 3 pieces:

 

http://i.minus.com/jisw8afVI3wG0.JPG

 

Pieces separated:

 

http://i.minus.com/j9Bz0pX31IJqr.JPG

 

http://i.minus.com/jbxoeGa2zbC0b0.JPG

 

Fixed the rings first, sliding them from the bottom slimer circumference, up to the top of the fork :

 

http://i.minus.com/jbkJ4bR0VfasqP.JPG

 

http://i.minus.com/jfKOtmJKy8je.JPG

 

http://i.minus.com/jbvXfhPPniPMfi.JPG

 

Positioned the main piece of the brace in the center and started screwing in each blot slowly, all at the same time,

each one a bit, to allow a continuous tightening of the brace at all sides at the same time.

No matter in what order I screwed the bolts in, I was always left with the front left one not fitting in the hole of the main piece:

 

http://i.minus.com/jbdP0upaLgNzEK.JPG

 

http://i.minus.com/jboxINPg6NwYCG.JPG

 

Of course I did this aligning all pieces as best as I could, even if it doesn't show in the photos because pieces slide a bit if you don't hold them in place - I tried to position the rigns on each fork at equal distance from the top.

 

http://i.minus.com/jlwuuNqNEaThV.JPG

 

http://i.minus.com/j2601lCkhHCFG.JPG

 

The photo is blur but you can see the screw getting out of the ring but not into the main brace piece:

 

http://i.minus.com/jbmN1Zbh6liCOC.JPG

 

 

Will try again tomorrow in day light, with the ability to play around with the rings position on the fork.

Also, it might be that because the brace is not meant to bent, and specifically meant to fit exactly, we might need to use a bit of strenght to force into position and align the last screw holes.

I didn't want to try that yet until I hear your feedback. (and I doubt I'll have the strength but we'll see ..)

[alvinyansg]

Tried to fix the fork brace but didn't succeed.

It seems that the alignment of the bolt holes on one screw is no taking into account the space used by the fork.

I managed to bolt in 3 screws, but then the last one wasn't aligned and couldn't fit.

I did not try to force too much, or move around the pieces to find a fit: I was afraid it would scratch the fork paint.

I did this in a sort of a dark place so I will try again tomorrow, this time, using some sticker tape to cover the fork to avoid scratches.

 

The brace with the Allen key to separate all 3 pieces:

 

http://i.minus.com/jisw8afVI3wG0.JPG

 

Pieces separated:

 

http://i.minus.com/j9Bz0pX31IJqr.JPG

 

http://i.minus.com/jbxoeGa2zbC0b0.JPG

 

Fixed the rings first, sliding them from the bottom slimer circumference, up to the top of the fork :

 

http://i.minus.com/jbkJ4bR0VfasqP.JPG

 

http://i.minus.com/jfKOtmJKy8je.JPG

 

http://i.minus.com/jbvXfhPPniPMfi.JPG

 

Positioned the main piece of the brace in the center and started screwing in each blot slowly, all at the same time,

each one a bit, to allow a continuous tightening of the brace at all sides at the same time.

No matter in what order I screwed the bolts in, I was always left with the front left one not fitting in the hole of the main piece:

 

http://i.minus.com/jbdP0upaLgNzEK.JPG

 

http://i.minus.com/jboxINPg6NwYCG.JPG

 

Of course I did this aligning all pieces as best as I could, even if it doesn't show in the photos because pieces slide a bit if you don't hold them in place - I tried to position the rigns on each fork at equal distance from the top.

 

http://i.minus.com/jlwuuNqNEaThV.JPG

 

http://i.minus.com/j2601lCkhHCFG.JPG

 

The photo is blur but you can see the screw getting out of the ring but not into the main brace piece:

 

http://i.minus.com/jbmN1Zbh6liCOC.JPG

 

 

Will try again tomorrow in day light, with the ability to play around with the rings position on the fork.

Also, it might be that because the brace is not meant to bent, and specifically meant to fit exactly, we might need to use a bit of strenght to force into position and align the last screw holes.

I didn't want to try that yet until I hear your feedback. (and I doubt I'll have the strength but we'll see ..)

 

tried installing yourself?

why not go UM to try?

[ORen]

tried installing yourself?

why not go UM to try?

 

Because I thought how hard can it be to screw in 4 bolts

Will try again tomorrow..if I can't do it and someone else here can, I'm sure I can get it installed for kopi money

[SC Gaban]

space cop gabans final transformation!!!

 

http://i674.photobucket.com/albums/vv109/Gaban84/DSC00034.jpg

[Charlton]

Because I thought how hard can it be to screw in 4 bolts

Will try again tomorrow..if I can't do it and someone else here can, I'm sure I can get it installed for kopi money

 

Same thinking as me.. result in having a fork that will not rebound, slightly dmg of the groove in de hole and scratch mark on the forks..

 

Sent from my LT15i using Tapatalk

Edited March 8, 2012 by Charlton

[nbk3]

http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g453/clickmeshare/20111015/eb8356af.gif

[Charlton]

Anyway, I got NGAT to fix it just now.. the process to modify it to b able to fix on our bike is quite tedious.

 

first of all, he need to get the hole angle correct.. he advise that when u got the brace, dun switch the side as all the holes positioning is different. My have problem as the hole is not align, so he has to enlarge. below is the pic of the hole need to be enlarge. (sorry o'ren.. have to borrow your picture)

http://i.minus.com/jbvXfhPPniPMfi.JPG

 

Next.. the reason why after i tighten my brace and my fork got stuck is because the center piece is slightly loose. after tighten, the brace actually pull the fork inward and result in the unsmooth travelling for the fork. NGAT just double side tape to fill up the gap..

 

http://i.minus.com/jboxINPg6NwYCG.JPG

 

End result

 

Tada!!! the fork is performing normal and slightly more stiff than usual... having less wobble at corner also.

 

OH YA!!! NGAT say, make sure he is free before asking him to install fork brace as this process need take some time for trial and error.. hahaha!!!

[ORen]

Oh boy.. but I thought they tested it before sending to us ..

@mjbs64, it's feedback time to them hehe.. Cannot be must drill the hole to enlarge, then some more tape and whatnot... :nono: :nono:

 

@Charlton: how much did you pay for it to be installed ? And can post the pic with what to drill I think you used white color, hard to see..

Thanks a lot for the feedback ! :thumb:

Yeah, immediately saw that by DIY very likely to scratch the fork paint so I just thought I'll do this when I can put some sticker to cover and protect..hmm.. *scratch head*

[mfk74]

Oh boy.. but I thought they tested it before sending to us ..

@mjbs64, it's feedback time to them hehe.. Cannot be must drill the hole to enlarge, then some more tape and whatnot... :nono: :nono:

 

@Charlton: how much did you pay for it to be installed ? And can post the pic with what to drill I think you used white color, hard to see..

Thanks a lot for the feedback ! :thumb:

Yeah, immediately saw that by DIY very likely to scratch the fork paint so I just thought I'll do this when I can put some sticker to cover and protect..hmm.. *scratch head*

 

mmm..P200 hv some difficulties to fix ..

Let's wait for my UG3...see whether can DIY myself or not...

[Seif]

@fircyber, transferred $2 that I owe u for the sticker, Ref# 7517097799

[Seif]

Getting long winded with age. Lol...

yeh lol

[revhappy]

SERVICE & SPARE PARTS AT UM

 

Servicing

1) Standard Package Servicing ......................................$6.00

 

Engine & Spark Plug

02) Rectified oil leaking on top of engine :

- 1pc cap camshaft + 2 pcs 'O' ring: .................... $35.00

- ball bearing (6301) @ $7.50 x 2 pcs ... $15

- ball bearing rear hub x 1 pc .... $8.50

- ball bearing (6302)........ $8.50

- ball bearing (6202) .... $8.00

03) 1pc diaphragm: .................................................. ....$25+5 for workmanship fees

04) 1pc Magneto gasket (for starter motor) : ....................$6.00

05) Wash + clean carburettor : .......................................$18.00

06) Engine holding bolt (long) ........................................... $8

07) Change Engine oil 1L ........................................$10.00

08) Change FS Mobil 1 Engine oil 1.2L(P200) ........................................$26.40

09) Change FS Mobil 1 Engine oil 1L(P180) .........................................$22.00

10) Denso spark plug (copper) .................................................. ....$6.50

11) NGK spark plug (copper) ..............................................$5.5 0

12) Respray engine block ..............................................$15

13) mj 115 ........................ $7.50

14)Magneto Assembly...................................................$220

 

 

Brake, Clutch, Choke & Throttle

01) 1pc Rear Brake Shoe: .............................................. $18

02) 5pcs clutch spring (for starter motor): ........................$2.50

03) 5pcs bush for clutch (for starter motor): .....................$2.50

04) Clutch cable .................................................. ..........$16.50

05) Brake pedal .................................................. .............. $25

06) Brake Fluid + labour .................................... $12

07) Throttle cable ..............................$17

08) New set of choke……………………………………… ……….. $18

09) Clutch gasket .................. .................. 1pc $4 (need 2 pcs)

10) Centrifugal gasket ................................ $1 a pc

11) Cultch plate Kit set .................... $78 ( if I'm not wrong)

12) clutch lever...................$12

13) Clutch plate ....................... $19.50

14) Front brake pad ................. $23 a pair

15) master cylinder diaphrgm .............. $6

16) Pump kit master cylinder + top brake fluid + labor .... $45

 

 

Wheels, Tyres, Chain and Sprockets

01) Rubber cap for chain case: .......................................$1.00

02) Front & Rear sprocket + Chain : ................................. $75

03) Front sprocket only (without labor) .............................$12.50

04) Rear sprocket only (without labor) ..............................$25

05) Sprockets & Chain P200 (1 set) ........................ $136

06) IRC rear tyre (P200) .................................................$ 75

07) Battlax rear & front tyre P200 .............................$210

08) Seal puntured tyre ..................... $5

[09) Rubber Coupling Damper ............ $10.50

10) Duro Tyre Rear (P180) ...........................$65

11) Spray both rims (paint excluded) .................... $80 [1 spray can = $5, need 1 can per rim]

 

Electricals, Signals, Sensors and Horn

01) Signal light lens .................................................. .....$4.00

02) Whole signal light assembly (1 piece)............................$20.00

03) Bulb for fuel gauge/speedometer/tachometer (for ver 2) ..$2.00

04) Service starter motor assembly: ................................$15.00

05) Horn per pc .................................................. ................. $25

06) Head Light bulb ............................$8.50 [lookalike white light/P200] $7 [lookalike yellow]

07) Number Plate bulb ........................................ $2

08) Battery Dry Cell ...................$40.50

09) Temperature sensor .............. $12

10) starter motor........$60(second hand)$145(brand new)+labour fee $25

11) pigtail switch ..... $5

12) CDI assembly ..... $98

13) rotor assembly ... $125

14) stator assbly comp ... $90

15) control switch RH ..... $65

16) switch electrical control unit .... $124

17) coil with labor and gasket ... $129

18) speedo meter cable ............$ 19.50

 

Accessories

01) Crash bar .................................................. .............$30.00

02) Kit Grommet sidecover......................................... .......$2.50

03) Latest Givi Monorack for top box ..................................$70 (+$10 labor)

04) RH footrest.......................................... ......................$36

05) LH footrest .................................................. ..............$32

06) Mirror per pcs .................................................. ..........$20

07) Handle bar .................................................. ...............$36

08) Pillon footrest per set .................................................. $13

09) Shield muffler .................................................. ...........$28

10) Weld metal pc on side stand ............................................... $15

11) Spray foot step panel and pillion grab holders (paint excluded)..$20

12) Install aftermarket front & rear fenders ................................. $60

13) Blank key(without key cutting) ...................................$3.00

14) Footrest bracket................................$3

 

 

Fork, Main Stand, Side Stand and Exhaust

01) SVC the fork.............................................. ... $40

02) Weld exhaust Pipe P180: ................................ $15.00 [Depends on how bad it is]

03) Weld exhaust pipe P200 ...................................$22 [Depends on how bad it is]

04) Exhaust gasket ........................... $3.50

05) Top up fork oil ...................$4

06) Weld main stand wif extension + barckets ............. $30

07) Steering cone set($33) + Ball bearing 1 set of 39pcs (Top 19pcs below 20pcs)($4) + Labour($25)............................$62

08) Respray Exhaust ........................................$30

09) Side stand(long one from P200).....................$20

10) Side stand spring........................................$5

 

MISC Items

01) Tap Fuel........................................$35 ('ON-Reserve-OFF' switch)

[mjbs64]

In Malaysia .. its call Boleh Land ... means got money all boleh

 

In Indonesia .. its call Plug n Play ... means got to play around with it

 

in Spore .. it's call hmm wat, why, where, who, bla bla bla ... means ????????

 

Like Optimus Prime will say ..

 

“Sometimes even the wisest of men and machines can be in error.” ...

 

 

kekekeke

[mjbs64]

Getting long winded with age. Lol...

 

yeh lol

 

wkwkwkwkw .. kekekeke .. Like Optimus Prime would say ... “It’s been an honor serving with you all.”

 

[frendless86]

I will be a good boy and wait for the new 200NS. Somebody tie my hands behind my back please?

[mjbs64]

I will be a good boy and wait for the new 200NS. Somebody tie my hands behind my back please?

 

 

yes .. all the way bro n be the first to get on that decepticon ride!!! ..

 

Optimus Prime say .. “Until that day… till all are one.”

 

woohooooooooooooo kekeke

[frendless86]

Decepticon? I don't wanna be common enemy~!

[Charlton]

Oh boy.. but I thought they tested it before sending to us ..

@mjbs64, it's feedback time to them hehe.. Cannot be must drill the hole to enlarge, then some more tape and whatnot... :nono: :nono:

 

@Charlton: how much did you pay for it to be installed ? And can post the pic with what to drill I think you used white color, hard to see..

Thanks a lot for the feedback ! :thumb:

Yeah, immediately saw that by DIY very likely to scratch the fork paint so I just thought I'll do this when I can put some sticker to cover and protect..hmm.. *scratch head*

 

@O'Ren check out the pic.. the red arrow pointing is the place that NGAT drill as the alignment of the screw is slightly off after inserting tape to the center piece.

 

sorry.. have to use your pic as i am now lazy to walk to carpark.. hehehe..

[ORen]

@Charlton, ok I see, thanks !

 

@mjbs64, please, we know lah, but don't say like that Indo plug and play must try and play around etc. I'm happy to try things, and DIY, and win some loose some.

But this was not really the deal, it's supposed to be something made for P200, made for the bike, specially designed for it. Tested. Used by others.

So by right, the product must be finished, or else, must say, we never tested, we're not sure, we hope it will fit, let's try and see how.

Then we order 1 piece, try see, then more. Like we always do.

 

This is not about MY boleh Indo boleh SG tak boleh. It's easy to say that... Is it or is it not presented like unscrew-put-screw-back-happy or not ?

So then it's not that here we talk talk complain ask questions etc.. We are all always trying learning testing, no problem with that. But this is not supposed to be the case !

And really, it's not that complicated: if it was an item from another bike, something we're not sure would fit, ok there is a risk we know of.

But no, this a tailor made item ! If the screws are not aligned with their holes, I mean what else is there to make sure of ?

 

Sorry, not trying to be negative, just stating my view, no trouble, in the end, everything is a good experience to take

Edited March 8, 2012 by O'Ren

[ORen]

I will be a good boy and wait for the new 200NS. Somebody tie my hands behind my back please?

 

That's the smartest decision, well done !

I remember having to wait almost a year between passing my 2B and getting the bike - wanted to finish saving the money to buy it without installment.

It was hard, and I was itching to just go to the shop and get it already. But when I finally got it, the feeling was even better

[alvinyansg]

@Charlton, ok I see, thanks !

 

@mjbs64, please, we know lah, but don't say like that Indo plug and play must try and play around etc. I'm happy to try things, and DIY, and win some loose some.

But this was not really the deal, it's supposed to be something made for P200, made for the bike, specially designed for it. Tested. Used by others.

So by right, the product must be finished, or else, must say, we never tested, we're not sure, we hope it will fit, let's try and see how.

Then we order 1 piece, try see, then more. Like we always do.

 

This is not about MY boleh Indo boleh SG tak boleh. It's easy to say that... Is it or is it not presented like unscrew-put-screw-back-happy or not ?

So then it's not that here we talk talk complain ask questions etc.. We are all always trying learning testing, no problem with that. But this is not supposed to be the case !

And really, it's not that complicated: if it was an item from another bike, something we're not sure would fit, ok there is a risk we know of.

But no, this a tailor made item ! If the screws are not aligned with their holes, I mean what else is there to make sure of ?

 

we have to face it...

no matter what everything has risks...

even custom made stuff has risks of not fitting perfectly...