[Group] Singapore BAJAJ Team (SBT)

[ORen]

Would probably ask if the sticker big enough to cover the faded area too, for $1 lol..

[revhappy]

Would probably ask if the sticker big enough to cover the faded area too' date=' for $1 lol..[/quote']

 

Haha *like*

[mjbs64]

But what does the diaphragm separate exactly ? The mixture air-fuel from the combustion chamber ? because i thought it was there just to help manage the air pression to allow the fuel movement' date=' hence should never get touched by the fuel.[/quote']

 

 

hmm my bad english again .. LOL ... it's the residue of the fuel dats got into the diaphrgm area along the gap of the slider during the slider being pull up n down upon open n close throttle n even during idling .. as the pic i posted u can see the fuel release out when the Jet needle being pulled when u open throttle so like said good AFR (mj/pj/needle jet combo) will prevent the fuel residue entered more into the diaphrgm area ... by chance it will eventually can go in during the vacuum process during idling too (fuel release from idle jet see pic again) n also throttling ( fuel release from mj n needle jet) .. reason also why our carb cannot take V power for long run as it will cause the diaphrgm wear much faster ..

 

btw dat video i did post before when we discussed on carb diaphrgm m AFR here ..

 

more pics on how our bs carb works .. do check on my profile album ...

 

btw i'm not an expert though .. kekeke

Edited March 10, 2012 by mjbs64

[revhappy]

BTW, here's the condition of my old damper coupling, before changing.

Looks like it has taken lot of abuse!

 

[ORen]

BTW, here's the condition of my old damper coupling, before changing.

Looks like it has taken lot of abuse!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]238584[/ATTACH]

 

Poor thing, got itself a totally new shape haha..

[alvinyansg]

@mjbs64 going for this?

 

http://www.rwsentosa.com/language/en-US/Specials/CybertronCon2012

 

but day pass sold out already...

[Charlton]

ported slider will reduce the chances of wet diaphragm...

but not prevent it...

 

hahaha.. roger that... cos ah teck was also quite shock to see my diaphragm is wet whereas MJ one is super dry... den both of us are curious y this thing happen.. den ah teck suggest that maybe my AFR is not right... too rich...

 

not leaked but its natural for the air fuel mixtures to enter through the vauum area .. reason why correct AFR is very important

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]238547[/ATTACH]

 

diaphrgm damaged cos fuel petrol is not friendly with natural rubber material when in contact

 

i hv posted this before on wd40 discussion .. hmm or i have not ..

 

http://www.marcorubber.com/compatibility.htm

 

hmm my bad english again .. LOL ... it's the residue of the fuel dats got into the diaphrgm area along the gap of the slider during the slider being pull up n down upon open n close throttle n even during idling .. as the pic i posted u can see the fuel release out when the Jet needle being pulled when u open throttle so like said good AFR (mj/pj/needle jet combo) will prevent the fuel residue entered more into the diaphrgm area ... by chance it will eventually can go in during the vacuum process during idling too (fuel release from idle jet see pic again) n also throttling ( fuel release from mj n needle jet) .. reason also why our carb cannot take V power for long run as it will cause the diaphrgm wear much faster ..

 

btw dat video i did post before when we discussed on carb diaphrgm m AFR here ..

 

more pics on how our bs carb works .. do check on my profile album ...

 

btw i'm not an expert though .. kekeke

 

haha... new things learnt... and also.. that mean your AFR is good.. kekeke...

 

just now install protec and get my main jet increase from 110 to 115.. now pick up improve.. engine not as hot as last time.. gonna monitor my fc... see how badly it affect...

[ORen]

Bigger main jet means you'll get a slightly higher FC, so a bit of decrease there in term of FC performance.

 

Anyone here can give tips on how to tweak the AFR to the optimal setting and how to know it is good ?

I remember Lindav explained it a few years back, but the damn search on this forum is a pain..so I'd appreciate it if anyone could spend some time doing a little AFR lesson

[revhappy]

Bigger main jet means you'll get a slightly higher FC, so a bit of decrease there in term of FC performance.

 

Anyone here can give tips on how to tweak the AFR to the optimal setting and how to know it is good ?

I remember Lindav explained it a few years back, but the damn search on this forum is a pain..so I'd appreciate it if anyone could spend some time doing a little AFR lesson

 

I read about it before, MJ bro also posted about it, there is that perfect ratio but I dont think it is measured in terms of number of turns. I was hoping someone to tell me in terms of number of turns, what the perfect setting is. But I think it varies depending on various other factors like the condition of the air filter etc so it may be specific to each bike and hence its only left to the pros to be done.

[mjbs64]

BTW, here's the condition of my old damper coupling, before changing.

Looks like it has taken lot of abuse!

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]238584[/ATTACH]

 

 

one of the reason why we use aftermarket damper ...

 

below pic the condition after using around 24000km ...

 

 

 

and this aftermarket brake shoe same brand ASK but this original Japan

 

 

 

worth the the change ....

[mjbs64]

I read about it before, MJ bro also posted about it, there is that perfect ratio but I dont think it is measured in terms of number of turns. I was hoping someone to tell me in terms of number of turns, what the perfect setting is. But I think it varies depending on various other factors like the condition of the air filter etc so it may be specific to each bike and hence its only left to the pros to be done.

 

 

one of the easy way as average or guide only is to understand n know the color of the spark plug ... see my album for the color dat are accepted to be either best, good or acceptable a guide from NGK ...

 

and to play around the numbers of turn is basically just an average since we do not have the proper tools like tuning kit or guage etc .. ...

 

keep the idling speed 1400+- 100 for best idling by adjusting the idle screw to have the idling stable ... see below does not matter if we dont have the tools ..

 

 

 

For the AFR .. what i normally do is always to have my engine warm up for around 5 mins or after riding few rounds or km ... than off it and start with a count of the total numbers of turn ( from close to full open) .. than i will just open 3 full turn as starting point from closed and ride along as usual with alternate speed mid to high rpm yes to whack the bike .. after few km ride i will check the color of my plug according to the guide from NGK .. and make adjustment accordingly .. eg if the color of the plug showed lean reading than i will turn out 1/4 turn each time to make it rich and ride as normal again .. will check again the plug and adjust by turn in or out depends on lean or rich until i get a good reading or acceptible ..

 

 

more pic at my album

 

my idle is kept the same around 1400+- as long it shows stable idling .. i happy with it

 

hmm take note of few things like proper spark plug heat range (ngk 8 0r 9) and good air filter (protec or knn) .. these helps to get better reading ...

 

 

Oh my method is not a perfect one but still it works like said as long as my spark plug reading as in the range as stated in the guide ...i happy with it ... oops broken english!! .. kekekeke

Edited March 10, 2012 by mjbs64

[mastera7x]

i think im like losing alot of new things here..

stickers...

a virtual cold war of Oren and Abang Mjbs64...(chill guys... even though i dont understand a sh!t about those technical things you guys discussed about..)

 

hmmm...

[phoenon]

No I think it's the main electrical unit, a little box inside the wiring system.

What you are referring to is the dasboard console, I think that's what Revhappy changed on his latst Pulsar.

 

okay thanks.. any idea about the price of the dashboard console?

[mjbs64]

i think im like losing alot of new things here..

stickers...

a virtual cold war of Oren and Abang Mjbs64...(chill guys... even though i dont understand a sh!t about those technical things you guys discussed about..)

 

hmmm...

 

 

how's ur grandmom ... hopes she's getting better ... our well wishes from us ..

 

hmm me n oren got cold war?? ... hahahaha .. dats normal lah bro .. like man u n liverpool .. on the field they are opponents but outside .. they drink together ... so same lah .. we are still bro n sis afterall ..

 

u take care of urself, ur bike n family too ok .. next time wat evet don let ur bro n sis waited for u without any msg ... i waited like cuccooo last btwo ... n do come our next btwo ... kakakakkaka

[mjbs64]

okay thanks.. any idea about the price of the dashboard console?

 

 

the little box dats the BCU ..

 

 

not sure whether at UM they have these gadgets for checking the speedo n bcu ... hmmm

 

 

[mjbs64]

My little brother in action ... hmm if we cant stop him than so just support him lah .. kekeke

 

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/428741_3168054714396_1056299428_3078465_392896837_n.jpg

 

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/429619_3168064954652_1056299428_3078474_1855867953_n.jpg

 

http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/429619_3168064994653_1056299428_3078475_1821874153_n.jpg

 

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/64336_3168142996603_1056299428_3078504_845890275_n.jpg

 

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/421828_3168029033754_181612093_n.jpg

 

http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/417633_10150654757983910_634938909_9217626_241308950_n.jpg

[ORen]

i think im like losing alot of new things here..

stickers...

a virtual cold war of Oren and Abang Mjbs64...(chill guys... even though i dont understand a sh!t about those technical things you guys discussed about..)

 

hmmm...

No not a war, more like two people with opinions and genuine sincere stand on a topic, with no hard feelings

Normal family stuff, you know

 

okay thanks.. any idea about the price of the dashboard console?

 

sorry, no idea, maybe you can give a ring to UM and ask Chris ?

Edited March 11, 2012 by O'Ren

[ORen]

@mjbs64 & @revhappy, thank you for the valuable input and MJ for taking the time to explain all this again.

I shall try and practice a bit on my bike next week to see if I got it right, I am due to change my spark plugs anyway I think.

But I have 2 questions:

1. If you change the AFR, how much must you ride to see a change on the spark plug head color ? Basically, how much km until you see if there's an impact to continue tuning the AFR ?

2. Where is the AFR screw ? (sorry, this one is a super mega basic question, but near the idle screw below there ?)

 

Today if all goes well I'll finally finish my running in post overhaul.

@alvinyansg, you remember when you ride tested my bike after the overhaul you said you heard like a loose screw inside making a rattling sound ? I heard it too yesterday night. Now I'm obsessed with it. I can't tell if it's from the engine or something loose on the fairing or something. Will double check all my screws, but I'm worried it is something inside the engine.

 

Also, I'm worried it's not easy to hear so later when I go to the bike shop it'll be like I made it up :cry:

 

Can't be something not tighten up, can it ? It's not coming from the exhaust, or the wheels. Has to be the engine...

Edited March 11, 2012 by O'Ren

[revhappy]

AFR screw is the volume control screw shown in the pic below. Its on the carb, you cannot miss it.

 

[mjbs64]

lets jammzzz

 

http://gilamotor.com/image.php/Posted%20by%20Fuad%20Arsyadi%20Gendut%20via%20FB%20fans%20page.jpg?image=http://gilamotor.com/wp-content/uploads/17693_1.jpg

[revhappy]

This is the 1st time I am owning a bike with the engine having glass window to check engine oil level. Thank God for that! I hate opening the filler cap just to check the level.

 

Again this bike too after filling 1 ltr of new EO, the level is at the bottom mark in the window, just like my previous UG2 pulsars. So now I have done a top up of about 100ml and it has reached the top. Waiting to see if that oil remains there or will it be reject by the bike, through the blow by gas tube into the air filter box.

[revhappy]

 

@alvinyansg, you remember when you ride tested my bike after the overhaul you said you heard like a loose screw inside making a rattling sound ? I heard it too yesterday night. Now I'm obsessed with it. I can't tell if it's from the engine or something loose on the fairing or something. Will double check all my screws, but I'm worried it is something inside the engine.

 

Also, I'm worried it's not easy to hear so later when I go to the bike shop it'll be like I made it up :cry:

 

Can't be something not tighten up, can it ? It's not coming from the exhaust, or the wheels. Has to be the engine...

 

Try to figure out from where it is coming from. But if you are 100% sure that it is from the engine, then just forget it. Overhauling is a very complex process and after overhauling too it is rare that the bike will be 100% back as factory settings. The rattling could be anything, not necessarily screw loose, it could be some part is not perfectly sitting where it should sit or just that the new parts and the old parts together are making some friction noise that is different from the factory setting. I wouldn't bother unless the sound really becomes worse or starts impacting performance.

[mjbs64]

This is the 1st time I am owning a bike with the engine having glass window to check engine oil level. Thank God for that! I hate opening the filler cap just to check the level.

 

Again this bike too after filling 1 ltr of new EO, the level is at the bottom mark in the window, just like my previous UG2 pulsars. So now I have done a top up of about 100ml and it has reached the top. Waiting to see if that oil remains there or will it be reject by the bike, through the blow by gas tube into the air filter box.

 

one scenario i want u to imagine ... what or how do you think the difference if you are paddling your canoe while on the surface of the water and paddling ur canoe under water .... kekeke

 

which one is over work?? .... just sharing

[ORen]

Try to figure out from where it is coming from. But if you are 100% sure that it is from the engine, then just forget it. Overhauling is a very complex process and after overhauling too it is rare that the bike will be 100% back as factory settings. The rattling could be anything, not necessarily screw loose, it could be some part is not perfectly sitting where it should sit or just that the new parts and the old parts together are making some friction noise that is different from the factory setting. I wouldn't bother unless the sound really becomes worse or starts impacting performance.

 

Sound advice, thank you - no impact on performance at all, bike is feeling great, can't wait to take it to 90-100km/h. I feel like I lost little abilities I had riding a bit faster, need to get a bit of practice.

[ORen]

Expected delivery date for the polo t-shirts is next Friday.

Do you want me to organize a collection meet-up next WE or you want to come at the BTWO the folowing Wed and pick it up ?

 

I want to avoid to have to arrange multiple meetings or collection times so please let me know which of the 2 above options you prefer.

If you can't make it, send someone to pick it up for you please. Thanks !