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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 7.7k
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Posted

hi, does anyone knows if cb400 revo have a fan at the front side of the bike like vtec 1,2,3 to cool it down ?

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Hello all,

Currently I ride a Spec 2 (2002)

I have questions for the ideal RPM number when idling stop..

Should be around 1000, 2000 or some more thousand RPM??

if unstable it makes the engine sound not good leh..

Unstable RPM for the exactly problem.. Up and down especially when first start-up the engine.

 

And how to fix 'em? Is it bcz the Carb things or any else??

Thanks

Regards

Edited by Asyonkz
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi All, anyone knows where to buy the windshield for spec 2? thanks !

12 Jun 2008 - Class 2B

28 Jun 2008 - Honda Phantom TA 200 (COE 11/3/17)

17 Jan 2009 - Class 3

27 Oct 2009 - Class 2A

28 May 2016 - Yamaha Fino 115 (COE 04/8/24)

9 June 2017 - Honda CB400 Spec 2 (COE 02/1/23)

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

hi guys. i have a 2005 super four spec 3 with 60,000 km on the clock.

 

lately i have been having trouble starting the bike because the HISS light will not turn off. so the starter just keeps spinning, but the motor won't fire.

 

any ideas or suggestions would be super helpful.

 

thanks.

 

quick

guns don't kill people; chuck norris kills people

Posted
  quickster212 said:
hi guys. i have a 2005 super four spec 3 with 60,000 km on the clock.

 

lately i have been having trouble starting the bike because the HISS light will not turn off. so the starter just keeps spinning, but the motor won't fire.

 

any ideas or suggestions would be super helpful.

 

thanks.

 

quick

 

It's likely the software in your key is corrupted..need reprogramming. If you have a spare key..try it. There was a case I encountered like yours from one of the rider in the past that has this problem..the key he use was a spare..but when use original..all is well. Good luck bro.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
  Jumpingbeanns said:
Hi guys, recently took over a spec 1 . Today i notice there was some leaks on the left near the gear shifter area. Any idea what is it ? EO Leaking ??

 

http://imgur.com/a/1bhmF

 

No photo..don't think anyone can help you if it's eo or coolant. However..if you had just oiled your chain..it's just over excess oil lube dripping. If you have not, it's your gear shift lever oil seal worn..need to change..15-20 mins job..just have the O-ring seal replaced..cost fro $6 - $12 depending on the shop rental and mechanic pay. If it's coolant..just that your coolant over flow if the coolant reservoir top up is too high when its hot.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted (edited)
  Jumpingbeanns said:
thanks for the prompt reply ! hmmi have reuploaded the pictures. Don't think it's my chain since i just change it ..

 

 

1)20170706_182259.jpg

 

 

2)20170706_182237.jpg

 

Did you oil the chain or the mech oiled for you after changing? base on your first photo..could be rusty or contaminated coolant leaking from the coolant ball joint unit or the host. Best bring to experience mechanic like Ah Chong to have a look at it. Check if your coolant reservoir level is dropping after than usual. If possible..run the engine and see where the leak is from and use your fingers to feel if it's oil or water.

Edited by Ah Pek

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
  Ah Pek said:
It's likely the software in your key is corrupted..need reprogramming. If you have a spare key..try it. There was a case I encountered like yours from one of the rider in the past that has this problem..the key he use was a spare..but when use original..all is well. Good luck bro.

 

hi ah pek.

 

thanks for the info! i gave the spare key to the mech, and with a little fiddling, the bike started right up!!

 

now all i have to do is have a spare key made or have the old one reprogrammed.

 

thanks again.

guns don't kill people; chuck norris kills people

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Ah Pek, Rectified the issue alr it was the CDI. But new problem, went to service my bike last week and changed EO,plug and oil filter. After that the mechanic had problem starting the bike, he told me i had low fuel left that's why couldn't start my fuel gauge had 2 bars left. I went to top up a $10 fuel afterwards about 1 bar more and after travelling for 30mins on the expressway and parked in a shopping mall carpark to run some errand i encounter the same issue again couldn't start bike i had 2 bars of fuel left, i tried push start didn't worked as well . so i pushed it to a nearby petrol station this time i pump full tank.

 

Getting really paranoid thinking the mech "Done something" to my bike, Is my fuel sensor broken ? Previously i had no issue starting the bike even when my bike is on 2,1 or in reserve ...

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Hi all, may I get some advice on which spec cb400 should I get??

 

My friend recommended me to get spec 3 cb400 as it is the newest carb model and the parts will be newer as well. But as I browse through, spec 3 is really way more expensive compared to spec 1 and spec 2. Is spec 3 really worth the additional $$?? All I am looking for is less problem during the long haul of owning the bike. Vtec open at which rpm doesn't matter to me. Need some advice from senior thanks!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
  mrwaynetan said:
Hi all, may I get some advice on which spec cb400 should I get??

 

My friend recommended me to get spec 3 cb400 as it is the newest carb model and the parts will be newer as well. But as I browse through, spec 3 is really way more expensive compared to spec 1 and spec 2. Is spec 3 really worth the additional $$?? All I am looking for is less problem during the long haul of owning the bike. Vtec open at which rpm doesn't matter to me. Need some advice from senior thanks!

 

CB400 spec 3 is the most reliable of all the CB400 family at this point of time.It is carbs model so parts,servicing and maintenance is definitely more economical and reliable than revo which has some issues.I recently saw a revo going for injectors replacement at the famous mototiam at ubi which cost $1000plus! Spec 3 of course afterall is an old bike model with the last batch being produced in 2008.

Its defintely worth the money as it really gives you a piece of mind in maintensnce compared to other class 2A and even 2B models.But it takes well abit of fortune to find a really really good condition spec 3.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi guys, so recently i think on Sunday, I had problem starting the bike. When i press the start switch, can hear a 'tok' sound and it does not start. So i had to run start the bike. Sunday was the first time it happened. So sometimes the bike starts fine but sometimes need to run start.

 

Apart from that, the IU also sometimes work and sometimes does not. I rode the bike to Racewerkz and the mechanic knocked something then the bike can start liao. He told me is either the starter carbon or the starter motor? He said that I can replace the starter carbon first then see how it goes or can just change the whole thing. He said that changing the starter carbon would be $120 and if want to change the whole thing would be $400. The mechanic was not sure abt the IU issue.

 

So i would like to check if the starter is the issue here? And if it is right, is the price the normal or is it too much?

Any idea abt why the IU sometime work and sometime doesnt? Can i go VICOM and just get it checked?

 

I ride a spec 3 btw.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi all, I have an issue with my CB400 Spec 2. Whilst changing my headlight bulb, I happened to push the wires in back a little to fit back the headlight. When I did that, my signal pole lights, speedometer light and speedometer function went off. I am still able to start my bike and the headlight can be switched on. Upon closer inspection of the wires in the harness, I am able to see that some wires have been melted off and are frayed from wear and tear. I guess when i pushed back the wires, it broke off and the power to some of the functions I mentioned above got affected.

 

My question is, how do I about fixing this issue? Is this just a harness change issue and if so how much do you think it will cost and where do you recommend I go? Many thanks for your help!

 

Cheers.

Posted
  rvd said:
Hi all, I have an issue with my CB400 Spec 2. Whilst changing my headlight bulb, I happened to push the wires in back a little to fit back the headlight. When I did that, my signal pole lights, speedometer light and speedometer function went off. I am still able to start my bike and the headlight can be switched on. Upon closer inspection of the wires in the harness, I am able to see that some wires have been melted off and are frayed from wear and tear. I guess when i pushed back the wires, it broke off and the power to some of the functions I mentioned above got affected.

 

My question is, how do I about fixing this issue? Is this just a harness change issue and if so how much do you think it will cost and where do you recommend I go? Many thanks for your help!

 

Cheers.

 

Take off your seat. Take the left cover off and you see a small black plastic fuse box. Squeeze the catch and open the box. You see there is a label on the back of the cover indicating which fuse for what function. As for your case..bike won't start is your "iginition" and the "signal pole lights, speedometer light and speedometer"..all is another fuse. This are red in color code and mean 5 AMPs rating only..just have them replaced. Look carefully if u have unused spare fuses inside..normally there is one or two..depends. If do not have..take out the last end fuse which is for "fan"..use that to replaced the iginition blown fuse and ride to Mustaff or LAB and get the fuses..cheap at 20 cents to 50 cents a piece. U can also use a strand of thin wire and wrapped across the fuse two end fuse connections blade as a temporary solution. Good luck and ride safe.Cheers!

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi bros, I have a problem with my spec 1, when starting the bike up after a day or two, the engine somehow is unable to warm up even though I rev is constantly for a solid 10-15mins. It will still stall at neutral when i'm at a junction even though i've been riding for a good 20+ mins. Next, i'm unable to throttle past 60-70km/hr and the rpm meter wont go above 5k. I've been to 2 mechanics and one told me it was spark plugs issue (So I changed the plugs) and the other one simply said electronic problem. However, even after changing plugs this problem still persisting so if anyone can help me will be good. Thanks!

Posted
  BoomBoomTime said:
Hi bros, I have a problem with my spec 1, when starting the bike up after a day or two, the engine somehow is unable to warm up even though I rev is constantly for a solid 10-15mins. It will still stall at neutral when i'm at a junction even though i've been riding for a good 20+ mins. Next, i'm unable to throttle past 60-70km/hr and the rpm meter wont go above 5k. I've been to 2 mechanics and one told me it was spark plugs issue (So I changed the plugs) and the other one simply said electronic problem. However, even after changing plugs this problem still persisting so if anyone can help me will be good. Thanks!

 

Go to Planet Motor and look for Ah Chong..he should be familiar with such problem. Could be faulty neutral switch near under the side stand that may need replacement or rev sensor faulty.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
  Ah Pek said:
Go to Planet Motor and look for Ah Chong..he should be familiar with such problem. Could be faulty neutral switch near under the side stand that may need replacement or rev sensor faulty.

 

 

I haven't been to Ah Chong but this problem is still persisting.. Now the issue is my throttle feels very sluggish and I hit vtec at very low speeds. Example: 1st gear drag till 25 hit vtec already and at last gear (6th) I'm going at 80km/h and feeling the whirring sound & heat of vtec in the engine coming on already so I need to cruise at 60-70kmph.. I usually go JB Ahboy to settle my servicing all but this seems like a much bigger issue than just a sensor. If u got any of such cases before pls feel free to advice.. thank you Ah Pek.

  • 2 weeks later...

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