[Discussion] General Queries From Newbies

[hamsterwhale]

it could be the carbon starter that may be giving you problems, in addition to battery flat.

 

so next time if bike cannot start, and you hear eeeeeek sound from right side chrome cover, probably is the carbon starter.

 

what ah chong from planet will do is give it a good whack with a block of wood. I AM NOT KIDDING.

 

but because i love my bike, what i usually do is remove the right chrome cover and tap around the wire and fuse area, you should see the neutral light go on and off as you tap. then try starting again and tap again.

 

what happened is the relay contact point over time has oxidise or lay term rust, all u need is some sandpaper and also derusting agent WD40 give it a squirt and it'll gain back its former glory, then if u wanna prevent oxidisation from building up, slap some grease over the contact points and all is well

[CSV]

hamster, teach me spray where.

 

the wd40 on the contact points of the battery? or the carbon starter there?

 

i dont know where is the exact location of it, i just whack the area with all the fuses and wires and the neutral light will come back on. haha.

[revhappy]

Hey guys,

 

I just got myself a used phantom. It is FY plate the newer version.

 

I opened the air filter:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]210546[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]210547[/ATTACH]

 

Can you please let me know if this Air filter is dirty or is the color yellow? Is this stock or aftermarket? What is the cost of replacing this filter and any good after market filter for phantom?

Edited July 9, 2011 by revhappy

[naim]

Hey guys,

 

I just got myself a used phantom. It is FY plate the newer version.

 

I opened the air filter:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]210546[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]210547[/ATTACH]

 

Can you please let me know if this Air filter is dirty or is the color yellow? Is this stock or aftermarket? What is the cost of replacing this filter and any good after market filter for phantom?

 

looks a little dusty to me.. can change la if u want.. no harm.. its cheap n last long anyway.. if frm LAB, i heard its $10? nt too sure.. i bought genuine one from Eversuccess for $22.. abit ex..

[Hydher]

Its dusty mate.

[revhappy]

Thanks bros, just came back from LAB and bought an air filter for 10$ and an NGK nickel spark plug DPR8EA-9 for 3$ really cheap

 

I need to change my sprocket and chain also. I checked with LAB and he said it starts from 40$. I dont need O-Ring or X-Ring. The std roller chain will do, I will just oil it every 500 kms will do. I need to know about the stock sprocket ratios for my phantom. Mine is the newer version 2004 FY plate. Can somebody tell me the stock sprocket sizes? Also I would like to reduce the gearing ratio a bit i.e. reduce the rear sprocket size so that cruising on highway is at lower RPM. Any suggestions on what sizes available?

[CSV]

bring to planet and just tell ah chong you wanna up sprocket size.

 

most people recommend 1 teeth more for the front, or 3 more for rear. either or, not both. in any case, increasing teeth will increase your top speed at the sake of lower acceleration. give and take thing.

[revhappy]

bring to planet and just tell ah chong you wanna up sprocket size.

 

most people recommend 1 teeth more for the front, or 3 more for rear. either or, not both. in any case, increasing teeth will increase your top speed at the sake of lower acceleration. give and take thing.

 

 

Thanks bro. How is Planet in terms of prices? I dont want to get an O'ring or X'ring chain, just a std roller chain will do as long as it is 520. I researched on sprockets. The stock size is 13 front and 41 rear, so I guess I will go with either 14 front or 38 rear. I read somewhere that having bigger sprocket in the front is better than having a smaller sprocket in the rear, although effect is same, provided there is enough space in the front for a 14 tooth sprocket to fit. I was planning to just go to Ah Boy and do it for cheap like 40$. I dont intend to spend 130-150$ etc for it.

 

Another thing I noticed is that phantom's chain wears out very fast compared to other bikes. I have heard many cases of phantom's chain making noise or sagging untill cannot tight. May be the bike is too heavy for the chain?

[Kevs]

Hey guys,

 

I just got myself a used phantom. It is FY plate the newer version.

 

I opened the air filter:

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]210546[/ATTACH]

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]210547[/ATTACH]

 

Can you please let me know if this Air filter is dirty or is the color yellow? Is this stock or aftermarket? What is the cost of replacing this filter and any good after market filter for phantom?

 

Thanks bros, just came back from LAB and bought an air filter for 10$ and an NGK nickel spark plug DPR8EA-9 for 3$ really cheap

 

I need to change my sprocket and chain also. I checked with LAB and he said it starts from 40$. I dont need O-Ring or X-Ring. The std roller chain will do, I will just oil it every 500 kms will do. I need to know about the stock sprocket ratios for my phantom. Mine is the newer version 2004 FY plate. Can somebody tell me the stock sprocket sizes? Also I would like to reduce the gearing ratio a bit i.e. reduce the rear sprocket size so that cruising on highway is at lower RPM. Any suggestions on what sizes available?

 

Thanks bro. How is Planet in terms of prices? I dont want to get an O'ring or X'ring chain, just a std roller chain will do as long as it is 520. I researched on sprockets. The stock size is 13 front and 41 rear, so I guess I will go with either 14 front or 38 rear. I read somewhere that having bigger sprocket in the front is better than having a smaller sprocket in the rear, although effect is same, provided there is enough space in the front for a 14 tooth sprocket to fit. I was planning to just go to Ah Boy and do it for cheap like 40$. I dont intend to spend 130-150$ etc for it.

 

Another thing I noticed is that phantom's chain wears out very fast compared to other bikes. I have heard many cases of phantom's chain making noise or sagging untill cannot tight. May be the bike is too heavy for the chain?

 

1) I recommend K&N, buy once, use for life...

once its dirty(which to me, hardly) just get a recharge kit, wash & recharge the filter & its good to used again! no more replacement of air filters!

 

2) Chain management, correct me if im wrong, most chains out there are O-rings. Its still up to rider how to tk care of it's lifespan. Maybe can try ezzyoiler, frm @ezzyoiler's thread.

DIY is cheaper than the other brandings selling outside. & it works too.

 

3) as for workmanship, cheap doesnt mean its good, expansive doesnt mean its better either.

main thing is that you can trust your bike on a dependable & honest mech/workshop.

food for thought.

[revhappy]

1) I recommend K&N, buy once, use for life...

once its dirty(which to me, hardly) just get a recharge kit, wash & recharge the filter & its good to used again! no more replacement of air filters!

 

2) Chain management, correct me if im wrong, most chains out there are O-rings. Its still up to rider how to tk care of it's lifespan. Maybe can try ezzyoiler, frm @ezzyoiler's thread.

DIY is cheaper than the other brandings selling outside. & it works too.

 

3) as for workmanship, cheap doesnt mean its good, expansive doesnt mean its better either.

main thing is that you can trust your bike on a dependable & honest mech/workshop.

food for thought.

 

Thanks, next time I will surely try K&N. Regarding workmanship, I had a pulsar before and I have done several things at Ah Boy for it, like change sprockets /chain, fit rear box, change fork oil. They have dont the job well on all 3 occasions even though the pulsar is not that common.

 

In case of Phantom, they handle atleast 10 phantoms a day, I have no doubt on their workmanship

[Kevs]

Thanks, next time I will surely try K&N. Regarding workmanship, I had a pulsar before and I have done several things at Ah Boy for it, like change sprockets /chain, fit rear box, change fork oil. They have dont the job well on all 3 occasions even though the pulsar is not that common.

 

In case of Phantom, they handle atleast 10 phantoms a day, I have no doubt on their workmanship

 

well, its up to the rider's decision.

[hamsterwhale]

i wonder what makes u think u do not need a o-ring chain, a bushless chain is almost throwing money into drain for no result, the reason a o-ring is there is to store the oil n grease, and to prevent dust particles from entering the linkage of the chain plates.

 

lemme give u quote u a scenerio, if u juz happen to finish lubing ur chain, u ride out and u get caught in the rain, what do u think will happen to your oil that u juz lubed in the chain, this is the only 1 i'll quote, cuz there is tons of scenerios that'll happen...

 

yes its cheap, but then again this is not 'a penny saved is a penny earn' situation but rather 'penny wise pound foolish'

 

but then at the end of the day this is your own decision, im juz highlighting out to you only, and ur air filter is still clean no need change....

[revhappy]

Have some read through this article:

 

http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_about_motorcycle_chains.htm

 

One of the biggest “Myths” when it comes to Motorcycle Chains is that a O-Ring chain will last longer than a “non-sealed (not O-ring) Chain! A non-sealed chain with the same Tensile Strength or slightly higher.....will last as long or longer in most cases if lubed about every 2 weeks of riding with a Premium Chain Lube!!!(but not X-Ring Type Chains) The “standard type” O-ring design allows dust, grit, & dirt to get between the inner & outer Side Plates. Sooo, in most cases the lubrication in the chain is gone after around 4,000 miles! Sure you can lube the chain as often as a “non-O-ring” chain & it will last longer, but that defeats the purpose & extra money of buying a O-ring Chain! In most cases, the O.E.M suppliers (RK & D.I.D) don’t even make a O-ring chain in a “Retail Box” anymore except to supply the Motorcycle Manufacturers to package-up as Genuine Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, or Suzuki parts!!!!!!

 

 

Also a non o-ring chain is 1/3rd the cost of an O-ring. How long do you think an O-Ring will last? I am sure a standard chain even without lubing at all will easily last 20k kms.

[hamsterwhale]

why are u quoting a 2005 webpage?that is no longer relevant? technology do not stagnant, and moreover the statement is not made by a manufacturer, its made by a webstore...in short i doubt the statement and it does not hold truth

 

there is a simple reason why a O ring is definitely better than a non sealed chain...its not about the lubing or wat, most impt is the particles of dust itself that'll enter and slowly degrade the link itself period...that is the one that is causing the wear n tear, not the lubing process that'll determine a lifespan of a chain, unless ur talking about same type of chain which is constantly being lubed and one that is not lubed at all, then u'll see the difference....

 

anyway yes a bushless chain can be used, but at the end u'll be spending more to change the chain itself in the long run then buying a normal o-ring chain...

 

i give u an example, i changed mine in msia, sprocket + chain whole set rm150, last me at least 30000km with no lubing...so if u change a whole set + chain lube maintainence, i cant see how it can outlast 30000km, and how it can be cheaper if u were to buy a bushless chain...

[hamsterwhale]

http://chain-guide.com/basics/2-2-4-wear-of-working-parts.html

[madman]

i hafta agree on this... i did not hav to change or tighten my chain for 2 yrs when using a jolly expensive gold chain...

[hurricane_sg]

Dear All,

 

Could you please share with me the places/workshops that I can get my new old-phantom bike washed at a reasoable rate?

 

Apologies for not be able to join the bike wash outing.

Thanks.

[karlie]

To the newbie Photofreak82 , Killjou , Justino, and the not so newbie ngjingzhi, hecter85 and hurricane_85....why not come join the PK on FNO and be with them to learn all you want about bike and lot more, may i ask what is holding you guys back ? make an effort as you have taken the first step to buy and own a bike, make full use and enjoy to the fullest what biking can have. PM me in private or share here your thoughts and see how we can "accomodate" new perception, new ideas. Except for Karlie and Monoblue who, i understand have not got a bike yet...do pm me and i can share how to get the best bargain and when you do buy your bike, please join us (I actually have have not join yet, this friday is my first virgin ride on FNO - Friday Night Out with them ) in this way you will be sort of "hand holding" by the experience rider - your short cut to better riding and gain full knowledge in the shortest time. best of the fun and joy that money can nevr buy, i assure you. thank you for hearing me out my 2 cents opinion. Cheers

 

will be getting my bike soon! gonna go around the shops tomorrow looking for one

[revhappy]

hey guys,

 

I tried to replace the spark plug on my own, but the right side chrome part screws are very tight. I tried using a star screw driver and cant open.

 

Then I thought I could just insert a couple of fingers underneath the chrome part and try to pull out the spark plug cable. But for some reason its very hard and cant pull it out.

 

Any idea what I am doing wrong? Is it pull it out or unscrew it?

[hamsterwhale]

hey guys,

 

I tried to replace the spark plug on my own, but the right side chrome part screws are very tight. I tried using a star screw driver and cant open.

 

Then I thought I could just insert a couple of fingers underneath the chrome part and try to pull out the spark plug cable. But for some reason its very hard and cant pull it out.

 

Any idea what I am doing wrong? Is it pull it out or unscrew it?

 

ok the screws on the chrome cover might be threadlocked, what u can do is spray wd40 to the behind of the chrome cover where the screws thread are, and let it sit for 10mins before u unscrew, if all else fails, u need a impact screw to unloosen it....

 

as for the spark plug cable, do u mean the spark plug cap or the ignition wire itself? anyway both are able to be pulled out by simply wriggling it from side to side and pulling at the same time, btw u need to remove the chrome cover before u can access the spark plug due to the angle that u need to fit the spark plug wrench in, which will not give u enough clearance...

 

HUAT AH!

[revhappy]

ok the screws on the chrome cover might be threadlocked, what u can do is spray wd40 to the behind of the chrome cover where the screws thread are, and let it sit for 10mins before u unscrew, if all else fails, u need a impact screw to unloosen it....

 

as for the spark plug cable, do u mean the spark plug cap or the ignition wire itself? anyway both are able to be pulled out by simply wriggling it from side to side and pulling at the same time, btw u need to remove the chrome cover before u can access the spark plug due to the angle that u need to fit the spark plug wrench in, which will not give u enough clearance...

 

HUAT AH!

 

Thanks bro

[willtam]

will be getting my bike soon! gonna go around the shops tomorrow looking for one

 

why buy from bike shop ....look here SFB or some other internet ie "locanto or Gumtree" that owner post for sale ...best bargain anytime than bike shop

[hamsterwhale]

why buy from bike shop ....look here SFB or some other internet ie "locanto or Gumtree" that owner post for sale ...best bargain anytime than bike shop

 

uncle tam not everyone has the financial ability to buy a bike full cash, some are students n some might be serving the nation, so going to a bike shop for hire purchase is the only solution for them, unless kalie doesnt knows there is a Buy n Sell section in PK...lol

[CSV]

hamster, you still haven't tell me where to spray wd40 on the battery to prevent the carbon starter problem.

[hamsterwhale]

duuh tot i told u already...ok anyway u know where the main fuse is? its located at the starter relay there, the one with the red color tab, open it up, see the four female hole?...ok can see right?...SPRAY!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

lol