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[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS


sino74

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Hi,

 

Any recommendations for a good motor shop in the North near Yishun for servicing a S4 ver S?

 

I bought a 14 yrs old S4 a few weeks ago and have some observations.

 

1. The rpm is fluctuating within a range of 500rpm during idling, is this normal for a old bike? When I increase throttle, I can feel the fluctuation as well. Is this a serious problem?

 

2. I can feel heat near my legs and thighs while riding the bike, is this normal? I was riding Phantom TA200 before and had no prior experience with S4.

 

3. How does one test the "temp" light indicator? The light does not illuminate when the bike is just turned on with the key without starting engine.

 

For your kind advise please.

 

Thanks!

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Hi,

 

Any recommendations for a good motor shop in the North near Yishun for servicing a S4 ver S?

 

I bought a 14 yrs old S4 a few weeks ago and have some observations.

 

1. The rpm is fluctuating within a range of 500rpm during idling, is this normal for a old bike? When I increase throttle, I can feel the fluctuation as well. Is this a serious problem?

 

2. I can feel heat near my legs and thighs while riding the bike, is this normal? I was riding Phantom TA200 before and had no prior experience with S4.

 

3. How does one test the "temp" light indicator? The light does not illuminate when the bike is just turned on with the key without starting engine.

 

For your kind advise please.

 

Thanks!

 

1. The rpm is fluctuating within a range of 500rpm during idling, is this normal for a old bike? When I increase throttle, I can feel the fluctuation as well. Is this a serious problem?

 

Not sure how bad it is base on your discription but for old bikes..its inevitable sometime. The meter may be old liao and the needle can sometime fluctate quite badly bekuz the pick-up inductor coil for the needle indicator may be pretty used liao or the wire that provide analog information from the sensor may be oxidies (coated with carbon due to fair wear and tear of electrical current flow on copper).

2. I can feel heat near my legs and thighs while riding the bike, is this normal? I was riding Phantom TA200 before and had no prior experience with S4.

 

That's expected if you have "4" 100cc engine with bigger bores and shorter strokes oppose to ur single cyclinder Phantom. Then again..can't say how "hot" is hot..as you may have coolant problem.

 

3. How does one test the "temp" light indicator? The light does not illuminate when the bike is just turned on with the key without starting engine.

 

Yah..have to agreed here that Honda never made a "self check" for led fucntion here. By default..it does not light up when the ignition key is turn "On". There are two ways..either you take the meter's covers off and acccess the led and supply a 5vdc to it and see if it lits or take off ur tank and access the heat sensor switch connector and use a lighter to heat up the connector and see if the temp led lits supposing if it reach 112 degreed celsius.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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Thanks to Ah Pek for the quick reply.

 

1. For the engine rpm fluctuation, I don't think that its a meter/pointer issue as I can "hear" the fluctuation from the engine/exhaust as well. The fluctuation is real, albeit within a small range, I am just not sure what to do or if its actually normal for an old bike.

 

2. The engine heat is bearable and I sure hope its normal. How does one check if he has a coolant problem or not?

 

3. I wasn't sure of the engine heat and that's why I was wondering if my "temp" led is actually working. I might find a chance to swap the bulbs from the "oil" light to the "temp" light, since my "oil" light is working fine. I hope its easy to do so.

 

4. Lastly, any recommendations for a good motor shop in the North near Yishun for servicing a S4 ver S?

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Ahpek if my engine leaking at the middle block means what ar? My father helped me put coolant sealant and it has stop leaking. Do i need to flush the rads and put water/coolant after that? Also you know anywhere that can tune carb?

WTS: CB400-PB1

 

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1. For the engine rpm fluctuation, I don't think that its a meter/pointer issue as I can "hear" the fluctuation from the engine/exhaust as well. The fluctuation is real, albeit within a small range, I am just not sure what to do or if its actually normal for an old bike.

 

Am confuse now..what do u mean by can hear "fluctuatio"?..can be seen but not heard...can u describe any abnormal noise from the engine that time with the fluctuation?

 

2. The engine heat is bearable and I sure hope its normal. How does one check if he has a coolant problem or not?

 

Coolant in reserve tank boiling..fan cutting "On" too often and "Teml lite" coming "on".

3. I wasn't sure of the engine heat and that's why I was wondering if my "temp" led is actually working. I might find a chance to swap the bulbs from the "oil" light to the "temp" light, since my "oil" light is working fine. I hope its easy to do so.

 

4. Lastly, any recommendations for a good motor shop in the North near Yishun for servicing a S4 ver S?

 

Most shop can do lah but just don't get chop. Make sure that they can do corrective problem after a job is done. Can try Ah Fook at AMK Ave 3 Blk 5032 #295 AMK Industrial Park 2 (turn in when u see Caltex Station).

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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Ahpek if my engine leaking at the middle block means what ar? My father helped me put coolant sealant and it has stop leaking. Do i need to flush the rads and put water/coolant after that? Also you know anywhere that can tune carb?

 

Yes..total caacity should be 1.8 to 2 litres of coolant and whatever he puts combined.

 

Tune carbs?...Why?..what makes u think u have to do that? Tunning carbs is different from carbs balancing and synchronisation which often mistaken for carbs tunning...make sure u know what want.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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@Ah Pek

 

Okay means to stop the engine from leaking die die have to put the sealant with the coolant T.T! or have to spend 1k to overhaul!

 

I actually dont know but right now my fc is around 17km/l (using mileage/petrol ratio) and I wash my carbs and my exhaust sound like not stable?

Edited by ludacris10

WTS: CB400-PB1

 

Search my threads! Thanks for viewing!

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@Ah Pek

 

Okay means to stop the engine from leaking die die have to put the sealant with the coolant T.T! or have to spend 1k to overhaul!

 

I actually dont know but right now my fc is around 17km/l (using mileage/petrol ratio) and I wash my carbs and my exhaust sound like not stable?

 

Read my post carefully...I'm saying you still have to use coolant with whatever ur father put in...u don't have to flush radiator.."flush" means using "chemical" wash agent.

 

Overhauling a bike may or may not solve ur 17km/l problem..it can just be simply ur riding style or the routes u use daily that is costing you 17km/l fc. Can be your tyre size..chain slack..tyre air pressure..your suspension..list goes on about things that u don't do i an "overhaul"...just like you wash carbs.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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Hi bro..thanks..was okay lah but my tour thru their mangrove swamp for bird photography was screwed..the agent didn't submitted my booking after it was paid..made me wait almost 1 hr somemore.

 

Wah... What type of service liddat one? Nvm lah bro, can go to Sungei buloh mangrove swamp lehh.. hehe

When I feel sad, I stop being sad and be awesome instead. True story. Hehe :thumb:

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Oh ya forget to ask. Any mods/tweaks to make the engine run better/more efficient? Planning to do grounding from you ar pek but wanna try running stock for a few months.

 

You can try his EO. Very smooth. Or use green oil. Can save fuel consumption too.

When I feel sad, I stop being sad and be awesome instead. True story. Hehe :thumb:

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Oh ya forget to ask. Any mods/tweaks to make the engine run better/more efficient? Planning to do grounding from you ar pek but wanna try running stock for a few months.

 

Its not regarded as a "mod" lah..just right good stuff use for good maintenance of the bike.

 

Superfour is a real hardly, tough and reliable bike and great all round performer. However..still have to be taken care off too some extend. Just emphaize much on ,aintaining its coolant system and use of good engine oil with agents that further helps prolong its reliabilty.

 

Occassionally.u hear of engine blockwater jacket crack, con rod bearing burn out..etc..all these are due to items use for internal maintenance. As for grounding..ithelps in providing electrical load needed by the ignition coil to produce better spark for a better combustion thus result in better horsepower of what the bike gives.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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ah pek , can i buy a bottle of premix coolant from you ? my last bottle going to finish soon .

 

Sure think bro..but why so fast finished?

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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Wah... What type of service liddat one? Nvm lah bro, can go to Sungei buloh mangrove swamp lehh.. hehe

 

U bet I be there again and again. Wanna visit the White bellies hang out again..and hope and wif some luck bump into them Pipy Hornbills again..ha...x3!

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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Major failure when attempting to DIY spray my side cover. Any spray shops to recommend?

 

LOL!...send to Ah Fook lah. Saw him repraying a whole S4 today for $250...may be he charge u $25 for that piece for a good job.

 

Anyway.just remember that when doing respraying..the "Prep" stage is the MOST IMPORTANT..that is the surface has to washed..find sanded and washed again and make sure no oily residues. Basically what I meant here is tghe surface must be clean thoroughly and also only spray thin layers and the distance of spraying is at least 10" to 12" away. Each layer mush be dried under hot sun or use a torch burner to assist. Wait till cool again and fine sand again before spraying. Repeat 3 to 4 layers and you have one reliable paint job that last for YEARS!

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

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LOL!...send to Ah Fook lah. Saw him repraying a whole S4 today for $250...may be he charge u $25 for that piece for a good job.

 

Anyway.just remember that when doing respraying..the "Prep" stage is the MOST IMPORTANT..that is the surface has to washed..find sanded and washed again and make sure no oily residues. Basically what I meant here is tghe surface must be clean thoroughly and also only spray thin layers and the distance of spraying is at least 10" to 12" away. Each layer mush be dried under hot sun or use a torch burner to assist. Wait till cool again and fine sand again before spraying. Repeat 3 to 4 layers and you have one reliable paint job that last for YEARS!

 

I used hair dryer instead for drying because I did it on a rainy day. Ya lor, I guess I might send to him for spraying. Is he using 2k paint or normal spray cans? The red that I got from the spray seems to be of a different shade. And, there's a fingerprint mark on it because my baby nephew went to touch it before it was competely dry. LOL!

Edited by Rider Saje

When I feel sad, I stop being sad and be awesome instead. True story. Hehe :thumb:

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U bet I be there again and again. Wanna visit the White bellies hang out again..and hope and wif some luck bump into them Pipy Hornbills again..ha...x3!

 

Goodluck in chasing the birds! hahahaha.

When I feel sad, I stop being sad and be awesome instead. True story. Hehe :thumb:

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