[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[Izammo]

Need some advise.

 

My idling is not so stable. It will drop abit for about every 5 secs interval.

 

Secondly, when the bike is hot. When moving off, feels like bike is stalling. Need to open throttle before releasing the clutch. However when cold, i can release clutch then open throttle smoothly.

[micheal]

Hi guys, new member to the family here! I just got a Ver S, currently its at my mech's place. He says the fork is too soft and needs servicing, as well as the engine getting unusually hot. Wheel bearing damn rough also and will be changed. Overall engine is quite smooth, so its a pretty good buy. Can't wait to ride!

 

To me, first thing to do, look for Pek to try his EO n coolant.

Won't disappoint u. Gd things must share.

 

If I got enough money, I will build ah Pek Statue n put it at cte exit amk ave 1

[teraboi]

LOL yeah I read about the legendary EO and coolant. But the big question is where to get and how? My current coolant ok leh, should wait for next flush right?

[lancelot_]

LOL yeah I read about the legendary EO and coolant. But the big question is where to get and how? My current coolant ok leh, should wait for next flush right?

 

PM Ah Pek for details. I have to be honest, i haven change my EO for coming 12 months and the engine is still in very good condition.

The Ah Pek Combo (EO, coolent and grounding), is a must try!

[teraboi]

PM Ah Pek for details. I have to be honest, i haven change my EO for coming 12 months and the engine is still in very good condition.

The Ah Pek Combo (EO, coolent and grounding), is a must try!

 

Thanks lancelot, so each time change EO should go to Ah Pek? Is it somewhere near amk ind park...

[micheal]

Double.....

[micheal]

To me, Ah Pek not only gd, but he's the best of the best!

 

The best he's, the best he was, the best ever be!!!

 

 

I will cut my bird if no gd :0

[ProFatSir]

FC check with you guys.

 

Machine 1995 PB1 NC31

Rider weight 95kg

Luggage weight 30kg

 

Speed under 110km/h gave me 25km/L

110-130km/h gave me 17km/L.

 

Normal a not?

At speed 110km,rpm is at 6500.

Rpm over 7000km start to drink petrol!

[fi_east]

to fellow ver s riders... just to share if your meter/rpm spoil, please dont buy the chiong one.. i bought the chiong one, its cheap but my temp light coming out accasionally is actually caused by using the chiong meter.. consult 2 diff shops and they say the same thing.. so what i did was to take out the circuit board from the original meter and transfer it to the the chiong one and it sure works.. no more temp light lighting up for me and all working fine now...

[teraboi]

Sigh my water is still boiling sian... I don't get it: if the optimal operating temperature is between 92°C to 104°C and water boils at 100°C, shouldn't it be normal for the water to boil? And if the water temperature is already at 100°C itself, how is it supposed to help cool the engine?

[greenruby79]

Ah Pek...you got PM

[slayer2cool]

Sigh my water is still boiling sian... I don't get it: if the optimal operating temperature is between 92°C to 104°C and water boils at 100°C, shouldn't it be normal for the water to boil? And if the water temperature is already at 100°C itself, how is it supposed to help cool the engine?

 

pure water at 1 atm boils at 100 deg C. but if you add coolant additives like what we usually do for our cooling system, engine ice, cool aid etc, boiling temp goes higher by a few degrees. so your coolant shouldnt be boiling off so easily unless your engine is really hot. and water helps with the cooling of the engine as water is one of the best medium to carry heat away due to its high specific heat capacity.

[kifakw]

Need some advise.

 

My idling is not so stable. It will drop abit for about every 5 secs interval.

 

Secondly, when the bike is hot. When moving off, feels like bike is stalling. Need to open throttle before releasing the clutch. However when cold, i can release clutch then open throttle smoothly.

 

it feels as though the power has no power when you are trying to move off right. And you'd need to throttle a little, before you can move off smoothly right?

 

it have got to do with the pins inside the engine, and if you are intending to change it for a smooth power delivery from standstill. You've got to change all 4 pins which is present in each piston.

 

From what I can remember, it is about 200++ to 300++ if you are thinking of replacing the pins.

 

Please do post here about the damage if you have replaced the faulty pins.

[Ah Pek]

it feels as though the power has no power when you are trying to move off right. And you'd need to throttle a little, before you can move off smoothly right?

 

it have got to do with the pins inside the engine, and if you are intending to change it for a smooth power delivery from standstill. You've got to change all 4 pins which is present in each piston.

 

From what I can remember, it is about 200++ to 300++ if you are thinking of replacing the pins.

 

Please do post here about the damage if you have replaced the faulty pins.

 

May be..may be not...I think your valves are mostly clogged with carebon. Try using Liquid Moly Valves cleaner first..cheaper that way..its equivalent to doing a valve grinding. Goggle for what inlet and outlet valves in an engine does...u get the idea.

[kifakw]

May be..may be not...I think your valves are mostly clogged with carebon. Try using Liquid Moly Valves cleaner first..cheaper that way..its equivalent to doing a valve grinding. Goggle for what inlet and outlet valves in an engine does...u get the idea.

 

hello ah pek, it is this product am i right? Any idea how much is it retailing for at Equipment Extreme?

 

http://list.gmarket.com.sg/item/LIQUI-MOLY-LIQUI-MOLY-CARBURETOR-AND-VALVE/402570623

 

OR is it this one

 

http://motorguide.oneshift.com/idb_view_item.php?iid=3910

Edited May 7, 2012 by kifakw

[Ah Pek]

hello ah pek, it is this product am i right? Any idea how much is it retailing for at Equipment Extreme?

 

http://list.gmarket.com.sg/item/LIQUI-MOLY-LIQUI-MOLY-CARBURETOR-AND-VALVE/402570623

 

OR is it this one

 

http://motorguide.oneshift.com/idb_view_item.php?iid=3910

 

Yes..the 150ml one is the one I uses and recommended. Dunno about Equipment Extreme..I have my own.

[kifakw]

Yes..the 150ml one is the one I uses and recommended. Dunno about Equipment Extreme..I have my own.

 

okay, i shall call and check the pricing with them.

 

i'll update the pricing here.

 

you got ur own supplier ah, ah pek?!

 

what about STP product ah pek?

 

http://www.stp.com/products/fuel-additives/fuel-injector-and-carburetor-treatment/

Edited May 7, 2012 by kifakw

[Ah Pek]

okay, i shall call and check the pricing with them.

 

i'll update the pricing here.

 

you got ur own supplier ah, ah pek?!

 

what about STP product ah pek?

 

http://www.stp.com/products/fuel-additives/fuel-injector-and-carburetor-treatment/

 

I have my own source. Tried but not to my preference in terms of effectiveness..IMHO.

[kayy]

Hey, guys.

I'm new here. Riding PB1. Would like to ask a question if ya ppl dun min.

 

1)Does the steering cone bearings or;

 

2)brake pump faulty (which in mainstand position, as i spin the rear wheel it has a scratchy sound on the disc brake, which makes it spin less then 5 rounds) or;

 

3)Softness/Leakage of the front & rear shocks;

 

that makes my bike can't really go. So far i tried till 140-145km/hr only. And that already made the bike vibrate quite badly.

 

Or, is it just that i should do the necessary :

 

1)Change cone bearing,

2)Service both the front/rear shock.

 

Just need some advice from you guys. Some say i need to do top service, valve clearance and etc.

[haoKR]

Hi,wanna check the price for a speedo for VerS. And any1 selling it.

Thx

[haoKR]

Hi,wanna check the price for a speedo for VerS. And any1 selling it.

Thx

[kifakw]

i've got this product from equpiment extreme instead

 

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/1581.jpg/$file/1581.jpg

 

the boss told me that this Valve Cleaner product belongs to car category, which i don't think so, as the mechanics of the inside are the same. and this product is a old product that liqui moly use to carry.

 

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/2001.jpg/$file/2001.jpg

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/us_2001.html?Opendocument&land=US

 

nevertheless, i shall try this new product and see how it goes.

[Ah Pek]

i've got this product from equpiment extreme instead

 

 

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/1581.jpg/$file/1581.jpg

 

the boss told me that this Valve Cleaner product belongs to car category, which i don't think so, as the mechanics of the inside are the same. and this product is a old product that liqui moly use to carry.

 

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/mediendb.nsf/gfx2/2001.jpg/$file/2001.jpg

http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/us_2001.html?Opendocument&land=US

 

nevertheless, i shall try this new product and see how it goes.

 

Wah...car valves and bike valves different arh???...one made of plastic and the other iron rod material arh???....Wah..ha!..ha!..ha! Anyway...good luck bro with ur new racing additive!....sighhh.

[Ah Pek]

Hey, guys.

I'm new here. Riding PB1. Would like to ask a question if ya ppl dun min.

 

1)Does the steering cone bearings or;

 

2)brake pump faulty (which in mainstand position, as i spin the rear wheel it has a scratchy sound on the disc brake, which makes it spin less then 5 rounds) or;

 

3)Softness/Leakage of the front & rear shocks;

 

that makes my bike can't really go. So far i tried till 140-145km/hr only. And that already made the bike vibrate quite badly.

 

Or, is it just that i should do the necessary :

 

1)Change cone bearing,

2)Service both the front/rear shock.

 

Just need some advice from you guys. Some say i need to do top service, valve clearance and etc.

 

If u have a 3 point crash ba installed..that could the cause. Anyway..check and tighten all ur ENGINE MOUNTING BOLTS, handle bar clamps and from fork upper and lower clamp bolts. You may need a mech to help using air compress box spanner tools to loosen than tighten them all again.

 

No such thing as valve clearance servicing for S4...when the time comes..u need to change "shims"..go google it and read about it.

[Izammo]

it feels as though the power has no power when you are trying to move off right. And you'd need to throttle a little, before you can move off smoothly right?

 

it have got to do with the pins inside the engine, and if you are intending to change it for a smooth power delivery from standstill. You've got to change all 4 pins which is present in each piston.

 

From what I can remember, it is about 200++ to 300++ if you are thinking of replacing the pins.

 

Please do post here about the damage if you have replaced the faulty pins.

 

May be..may be not...I think your valves are mostly clogged with carebon. Try using Liquid Moly Valves cleaner first..cheaper that way..its equivalent to doing a valve grinding. Goggle for what inlet and outlet valves in an engine does...u get the idea.

 

kifakw, yes. your first guess was right!

 

Ah Pek, using the valve cleaner now. on the first bottle. anyway do i use it every fuel top up or every certain mileage?

 

anyway, after my coil burnt and become unusable, i changed to new one, now the problem is no more the no power feeling (so i guess my pins still ok?), however, my idling is now at ~1.3k cold and ~1.6k hot. tried adjusting the idling but can't reach the knob. any tips to get my hands in there?

does changing coil affects the idling? checked with mech he said he didn't adjust anything with the carbs.