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Product : Engine Oil Discussion


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Originally posted by darren_soh86@Apr 22 2006, 02:55 PM

hey guyz.. my last oil change i changed to Fuchs Silkolene Comp4.. Ester-based semi-syn.. i bought from Ah Gua lane.. bout SGD12.. pretty nab for a semi IMHO.. u guyz could try it out..

 

running for 3000+KM and going.. still pretty good.. btw i riding NSR150..

Have u checked out the price for comp4 locally? You might be surprised.

and depending which story you believe in, the EO available in msia are of a different made than what we have locally.

 

3000km + and going strong is not surprising on a 2-stroker where the main lubricating of pistons comes from 2t.

 

I heard that royal purple is tested to one bike after draining the EO out and its still running for a distance..Is it true?

 

what do you mean by that? :giddy: If its what I think it is, I have no idea what to say.

 

can my bajaj use royal purple? iam very interested in royal purple

 

Your bike can use any EO. Period.

& why the particular interest in RP can I ask?

Money should never change one's values.Making money is only a report card. It's a way to tell others how you are doing

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Originally posted by Al-demon@Apr 25 2006, 02:58 PM

Have u checked out the price for comp4 locally? You might be surprised.

and depending which story you believe in, the EO available in msia are of a different made than what we have locally.

 

3000km + and going strong is not surprising on a 2-stroker where the main lubricating of pistons comes from 2t.

the price here shd be ard the same area too.. maybe cheaper.. i din bother to find out.. anyway the Comp4 advertised on both SG FUCHS and MY FUCHS is exactly the same ma..

 

Comp 4 10W-40, 15W-50 and 20W-50

Electrosyntec Technology - Synthetic ester based 4-stroke engine oils for all high performance motorcycles. Electrosyntec uses electrostatic forces to bond low friction molecules to stressed metal surfaces, releasing hidden power and ensuring long term performance retention. The exceptional stay-in-grade formulation protects engines and transmissions. Ester synthetics combat wear and friction on all critical load surfaces at high temperatures and during cold starts. API SG, SH & SJ, JASO MA.

 

ppl always tink stuff from the other side of the sea all sux.. thats not true wat..

u go MY n tell the shop u wan cheap here cheap there of coz sux la..

 

:nono: :nono:

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fuch silkolene semi syn 15w50 cheapest i come across in SG is SGD$12..

got it for SGD$10.. used it on my krr and wave

absolutely no difference in getting it in MY..

Planet Motors

 

just something to share

i've used the fuch (fully syn) on my r1..

this is 20bux/ltr

bike feels more rough..

draggy to reach 299..

after 3.5k km mileage.. bike feels super heavy..

off to next oil change..

 

used elf..

bike feels smooth..

but after 3.5k km.. again feels super heavy..

off to next oil change..

 

used maxima extra fully syn..

all i can say for this product is just that it's simply superb..

i went up to 8k km mileage.. and upon my engine oil change..

the oil was still in good condition..

299 is a breeze..

everything feels smooth..

after 6k mileage..

when i dun go up north to clear carbon.. it tends to get heavy..

but once go for carbon clearing session..

everything is silky smooth again..

:thumb:

Some people measure their adventures in miles or days. I prefer "lamp posts".

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used castrol r4 not bad.still feels gd aft >6k

at present using putoline full syn,engine feels heavy.

plan change back 2 r4;but if u say maxima gd....

den shud gv a try! wer can get tat brand?motowld?

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Bro kambing, The Elf EO u tried till 3500km is Fully synthetic is it? :confused:

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Originally posted by cmR6@Apr 25 2006, 11:57 PM

used castrol r4 not bad.still feels gd aft >6k

at present using putoline full syn,engine feels heavy.

plan change back 2 r4;but if u say maxima gd....

den shud gv a try! wer can get tat brand?motowld?

R4 thin down quickly with high rpm. It depends on your usage pattern too.

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Originally posted by cmR6@Apr 25 2006, 11:57 PM

used castrol r4 not bad.still feels gd aft >6k

at present using putoline full syn,engine feels heavy.

plan change back 2 r4;but if u say maxima gd....

den shud gv a try! wer can get tat brand?motowld?

Mah parts selling it for 21bucks/ltr...

 

Currently, I using the maxima blend (semi-syn) in my nighthawk. My bike is much cooler, smoother and less vibration.

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Originally posted by RxzDelux@Apr 26 2006, 12:30 AM

Bro kambing, The Elf EO u tried till 3500km is Fully synthetic is it? :confused:

yes bro.. i used the fully syn elf..

18bux/ltr.. or was it 20.. hmmm forgot liao

:sweat:

Some people measure their adventures in miles or days. I prefer "lamp posts".

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Originally posted by RxzDelux@Sep 10 2004, 11:28 PM

Taken from the Royal Purple Website.

 

I think this question is VERY COMMON.

 

 

 

What viscosity do you recommend for motorcycles?

 

Follow the manufacturer's recommendations regarding viscosity. Most manufacturers recommend a 10W40 for 4-cycle, liquid-cooled motorcycles. Air / oil cooled motorcycles typically specify a 20W50. Check your owner's manual for verification or contact Royal Purple's Automotive Technical Department at 888-382-6300.

 

So conclusion is

 

Air or Oil cooled engines require 20W50 or anything that ends with 50 behind for protection of the engine when it is hot.

 

Liquid cooled or engines with coolant are recomended 10W40 or above....

 

 

Hope that helps ......

So for new bike, which is better to use Fully syn or semi-syn? and whats the diff with mineral oil?

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Have to add that using mineral oil is correct, but you also have to increase the frequency of oil change while running in with mineral oils so that 1) all the gunk get flushed out and 2) the mineral oil wouldn't last very long compared to synthetics so that means frequent replacing is required.

Even the smallest spark can start a massive forest fire...

 

Quotable Quotes: If you ride a motorcycle often, you will be killed riding it. That much is as sure as night follows day. Your responsibility is to be vigilant and careful as to continue to push that eventuality so far forward that you die of old age first

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ok cool. thanks.. so i jus did my second oil change. now my mileage is at 2000km. so when is the right mileage should i change from mineral oil to full syn?

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Originally posted by GoofRider@Apr 28 2006, 11:35 AM

ok cool. thanks.. so i jus did my second oil change. now my mileage is at 2000km. so when is the right mileage should i change from mineral oil to full syn?

Bro, wat bike are u riding...?

 

Different bikes/models, slightly different types of oil reccomended and frequency of oil change...., Hard/normal run in, etc...

"Let me tell you something you already know. The world ain't all sunshine and rainbows. It is a very mean and nasty place and it will beat you to your knees and keep you there permanently if you let it. You, me, or nobody is gonna hit as hard as life. But it ain't how hard you hit; it's about how hard you can get hit, and keep moving forward. How much you can take, and keep moving forward. That's how winning is done. Now, if you know what you're worth, then go out and get what you're worth. But you gotta be willing to take the hit, and not pointing fingers saying you ain't where you are because of him, or her, or anybody. Cowards do that!"

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Originally posted by kambing@Apr 25 2006, 10:51 PM

fuch silkolene semi syn 15w50 cheapest i come across in SG is SGD$12..

got it for SGD$10.. used it on my krr and wave

absolutely no difference in getting it in MY..

Planet Motors

 

just something to share

i've used the fuch (fully syn) on my r1..

this is 20bux/ltr

bike feels more rough..

draggy to reach 299..

after 3.5k km mileage.. bike feels super heavy..

off to next oil change..

 

used elf..

bike feels smooth..

but after 3.5k km.. again feels super heavy..

off to next oil change..

 

used maxima extra fully syn..

all i can say for this product is just that it's simply superb..

i went up to 8k km mileage.. and upon my engine oil change..

the oil was still in good condition..

299 is a breeze..

everything feels smooth..

after 6k mileage..

when i dun go up north to clear carbon.. it tends to get heavy..

but once go for carbon clearing session..

everything is silky smooth again..

:thumb:

Thanks for your comments kambing :thumb: I always tell pple, a quality oil will 'recover' after a good wack up north :thumb: A poor oil will turn watery/rough given the same abuse.

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Originally posted by ANR Impex@Apr 29 2006, 04:09 AM

Thanks for your comments kambing :thumb: I always tell pple, a quality oil will 'recover' after a good wack up north :thumb: A poor oil will turn watery/rough given the same abuse.

i find it kinda no logic....

but my fren using maxima extra feel the same way too(the oil "recover")

 

any1 knows why?..

--- A twist of the wrist ---

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Oil goes 'bad' in many ways. In bikes, the gearbox is physically very demanding on the oil molecules, shearing down the chains quickly, making the oil thinner as a result. This is one major reason not to use car oil in a bike, they're generally not made to withstand this kind of abuse and will thin down quickly.

 

Unfortunately, many 'motorcycle specific' oils aren't much better in this aspect, many are just repackaged car base oil with boosted antiwear additive package to meet JASO MA specs. These are what I term 'poor oils'. When ridden hard, these oils turn rough quickly because they physically break down. Good motorcycle specific oils are designed with shear resistance in mind, and this means using expensive synthetic PAO and ester bases.

 

However, there is another reason oil goes 'rough'. Moisture, unburnt fuel and combustion byproducts accumulate in the engine, any good oil will scavenge these impurities and keep it suspended, so that they do not form deposits on the engine internals or cause corrosion. Ester base oils like Maxima do this particularly well due to the polar nature of esters.

 

Engine oil then relies on heat to purge those volatile impurities from the oil. Unfortunately, the short 5~10km commute distances in relatively heavy traffic does not allow the oil to get hot enough sufficiently long to completely purge it. Impurities accumulate with short trips. A ride up North with enthusiastic opening of the throttle will 'cleanse' the oil more thoroughly. A good oil can endure the physical punishment of high rpm/load to 'recover', while a poor oil will deteriorate with the same use.

 

Click on the 4T Info/FAQ in my signature to read more about oil and its properties.

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so where can i get maxima oils?? been reading bot it here but cant seem to find where to buy. any help?

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top speed: TBC

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Originally posted by ANR Impex@Apr 29 2006, 05:17 AM

Oil goes 'bad' in many ways. In bikes, the gearbox is physically very demanding on the oil molecules, shearing down the chains quickly, making the oil thinner as a result. This is one major reason not to use car oil in a bike, they're generally not made to withstand this kind of abuse and will thin down quickly.

 

Unfortunately, many 'motorcycle specific' oils aren't much better in this aspect, many are just repackaged car base oil with boosted antiwear additive package to meet JASO MA specs. These are what I term 'poor oils'. When ridden hard, these oils turn rough quickly because they physically break down. Good motorcycle specific oils are designed with shear resistance in mind, and this means using expensive synthetic PAO and ester bases.

 

However, there is another reason oil goes 'rough'. Moisture, unburnt fuel and combustion byproducts accumulate in the engine, any good oil will scavenge these impurities and keep it suspended, so that they do not form deposits on the engine internals or cause corrosion. Ester base oils like Maxima do this particularly well due to the polar nature of esters.

 

Engine oil then relies on heat to purge those volatile impurities from the oil. Unfortunately, the short 5~10km commute distances in relatively heavy traffic does not allow the oil to get hot enough sufficiently long to completely purge it. Impurities accumulate with short trips. A ride up North with enthusiastic opening of the throttle will 'cleanse' the oil more thoroughly. A good oil can endure the physical punishment of high rpm/load to 'recover', while a poor oil will deteriorate with the same use.

 

Click on the 4T Info/FAQ in my signature to read more about oil and its properties.

thanks dude... :thumb:

--- A twist of the wrist ---

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Originally posted by Nuc_em@Apr 29 2006, 03:12 AM

how about fazer 1000cc??

Im not an expert for Fazer Machines, but I have 4 friends riding fazers.

 

3 are 1000s, and 1 is the 600 machine.

 

So far for this machine, it seems to run well with many types of engine oils, i believed almost all the EO brands that are covered in this thread so far.

Though i dont quite recalled the type of EO they are using, i do know tat all 4 are using different EO.

 

The type of EO depends of ur riding style and the kinda performance that u expect from the bike. Eg. if u always travel at high RPM, long distance crusing, track use, just normal sg ride, and etc.)

 

However, regular Oil chg is still e most impt factor.

 

 

 

:thumb:

"Let me tell you something you already know. The world ain't all sunshine and rainbows. It is a very mean and nasty place and it will beat you to your knees and keep you there permanently if you let it. You, me, or nobody is gonna hit as hard as life. But it ain't how hard you hit; it's about how hard you can get hit, and keep moving forward. How much you can take, and keep moving forward. That's how winning is done. Now, if you know what you're worth, then go out and get what you're worth. But you gotta be willing to take the hit, and not pointing fingers saying you ain't where you are because of him, or her, or anybody. Cowards do that!"

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