Product : Engine Oil Discussion

[WanFazer]

Semi syn oil is already cheap enuf imo n still wanna save further by using eo made for cars coz its much more cheaper ? No thanx... I might know nuts bout eo but there's always a reason y eo for bikes r made specifically for bikes... Trial n error ? Unless to overhaul my engine is very cheap, nope i wnt even dream of trying it... Bottomline is, i paid $35K ++ for my ride, i wnt wanna screw up juz coz i want to save a few $$ n in e end i got to fork out $$$$$ more..

 

E only thing that i've tried out n proven is to use semi syn 10w-40 @ 16000km my bike still feel as new (well only 7mths old ) ...

[shahrul_azmil3]

i wonder is there 5w30, 0w20 semi syn or similier.

 

hrm. . . .

 

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Xparent Cyan Tapatalk

[revhappy]

One thing that I would like to highlight is EO contamination. As the engine gets older, it creates more combustion by-products, aka soot. This soot mixes with the EO which makes it lose it properties, hence even the best eo being rendered useless very soon.

 

My pulsar currently the piston/cylinder condition isn't top notch and hence the eo gets very dirty very soon. Hence I have decided to stick with good old mineral oil(Mobil 20W50) and change every 1.5k kms.

[WanFazer]

There's a place to remove e carbon at e piston heads.. Somewhere in sin ming area...

[shahrul_azmil3]

cant juz send to any bike service area n service the top? change gasket n workmenship only mar

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Xparent Cyan Tapatalk

[Hydher]

Semi syn oil is already cheap enuf imo n still wanna save further by using eo made for cars coz its much more cheaper ? No thanx... I might know nuts bout eo but there's always a reason y eo for bikes r made specifically for bikes... Trial n error ? Unless to overhaul my engine is very cheap, nope i wnt even dream of trying it... Bottomline is, i paid $35K ++ for my ride, i wnt wanna screw up juz coz i want to save a few $$ n in e end i got to fork out $$$$$ more..

 

E only thing that i've tried out n proven is to use semi syn 10w-40 @ 16000km my bike still feel as new (well only 7mths old ) ...

 

What brand are you using? How much and where.

[WanFazer]

What brand are you using? How much and where.

 

Maxima @ loois... Price wise is best u ask them

[Hydher]

Maxima @ loois... Price wise is best u ask them

 

You stick to the manual reccomended changes? eg manual state 6k and with semi you still change at 6k? (monitoring oil levels though)

 

Im riding a gsxr 1000. Dun know if its alright.

[Hydher]

Double bubble

Edited April 19, 2012 by Hydher

[bengie]

Just bought a schnell maximax 2 100%syn...5w60

NOt sure about 60wt of oil as 1st time using.

Previously have been using 50wt such as chexx,maxima ETC..

I will be changing it tomorrow.

 

Its spec is API SG/CF,JASO-MA

 

for those who uses car brand eo, do not use this brand. I rather use it's bike eo. I feel I need to change eo at only 1000km travelled. this brand is worse than carlube. even hedo is better. what's next? hmmmm

[Isopropyl]

a couple of days ago, my friend and i arranged to go for evening classes after work. he was riding yamaha R15 and needed to service his bike. on the way to school, we ride to the nearest motorcycle shop.

 

he told the uncle to change both oil and filter. when the uncle unscrew the drain plug, i was kind of taken aback. i mean i have seen pretty much oil change and also DIY for my own bike. what came out of the crankcase was different. sure it was pitch black. but there seem to be a slight greyish discolouration and yellowish tint. i can't really tell. it appear to be sticky and thicker then usual. i sense sludge?

 

staight away i ask what his OCI was. he was not sure how many kilometers he was on this oil but estimate to be about 5,000-6,000km. he change his oil based on feeling how his bike's engine run.

 

next, he ask for the cheapest oil in the shop. i did told him to use some better juice in there since he is going to give the oil some pretty good mileages. he reply it doesn't matter as long as there is oil in it. i took a look at the bottle and the oil was API SE rated!!! even my kup ask for at least API SF.

 

in the earlier days, he took his bike to Hong Leong for servicing regularly. now he is just use the cheapest available stuffs. i pity his poor bike.

[CSV]

well, some people are like that. bike is just a transport, get whatever is cheapest and allows it to run, put it in and forget about it.

 

when time comes for engine rebuild or whatever, maybe then he will realise, getting better oils would have saved him the money in the longer run.

[ludacris10]

@Iso. What's the difference between API SE / SF

[crazydj]

Actually, the rating doesnt really matter, as lomg as your interval changes are short. So if you change every 1k km, then any rating doesnt matter, But if you change every 6k, then better get oils with a better rating. As for me, i dont really care because 6k km is about nearly a year of riding and i change oil once every 2 to 3 months. Not even 2km i think. Lol, so under utilised my bike.

[Isopropyl]

@Iso. What's the difference between API SE / SF

 

2 requirements was added to API SF compare to SE. overhead valve train wear and fuel economy.

 

new requirements was added to the oil based on the era's engine design as well as others policy factors. it will be good to follow manual recommendation although i tend to agree small bike like kup can get away with it as their engine basically is pretty much the same through out the years. as crazydj mention, just keep the interval short as those oil uses lower quality base stock. still, i will suggest get something like SF or even better at SG. those oil just doesn't cost that much more. it will be good to know SE standard is set in early 70s. time have pass...

[revhappy]

I am currently using Mobil Mineral 20W50 on my bajaj pulsar it is API SG. Its one of the cheapest M/C oil money can buy, yet perfect for my OCI of 1.5k kms.

 

My daily mileage also very less only 20kms and I ride only on week days, so 1.5k Kms happens after 3 months

Edited May 10, 2012 by revhappy

[MERCENARY]

I just tried Chex 9000 Fully Syn made in Germany that costs me $18 per bottle.

Cause Motul 15w 50 costs $22 and Motul 300V costs $33 at Unique and the rest not suitable for my Xr 400.

 

So far so good,its indeed thick now got to see reliability and durability.

[Isopropyl]

I am currently using Mobil Mineral 20W50 on my bajaj pulsar it is API SG. Its one of the cheapest M/C oil money can buy, yet perfect for my OCI of 1.5k kms.

 

My daily mileage also very less only 20kms and I ride only on week days, so 1.5k Kms happens after 3 months

 

i think you can safely drag it up to 2,000km with life still in it.

[Isopropyl]

I just tried Chex 9000 Fully Syn made in Germany that costs me $18 per bottle.

Cause Motul 15w 50 costs $22 and Motul 300V costs $33 at Unique and the rest not suitable for my Xr 400.

 

So far so good,its indeed thick now got to see reliability and durability.

 

chex is good. when i changed the oil out, the warm oil is still thicker then the 40wt oil i pour in. shear stable:thumb:

[revhappy]

I just tried Chex 9000 Fully Syn made in Germany that costs me $18 per bottle.

Cause Motul 15w 50 costs $22 and Motul 300V costs $33 at Unique and the rest not suitable for my Xr 400.

 

So far so good,its indeed thick now got to see reliability and durability.

 

Chex is good, but 18$ is overpriced for it. Someplaces it used to sell at 14$. But now most places it is 16$. I think the motul you mention is I think semisyn 5100 is also overpriced, it can be got for 16-18$

[michael_25]

I just tried Chex 9000 Fully Syn made in Germany that costs me $18 per bottle.

Cause Motul 15w 50 costs $22 and Motul 300V costs $33 at Unique and the rest not suitable for my Xr 400.

 

So far so good,its indeed thick now got to see reliability and durability.

 

XR4 is reputable for it reliability, the only cons is it will consume E.O.

Do check and top up if E.O. run low.

[aswin]

I use castrol racing oil. Has worked well for me

[Isopropyl]

I use castrol racing oil. Has worked well for me

 

i use castrol too... but castrol lorry oil:cheeky:

 

i thinking of adding this for my next oil change. read alot of good things about it and some UOA show slightly lower wear metal with it. Schaeffer make good stuffs:thumb: of course, if you are already using good oil, there is no need to add anything.

 

at $15 per bottle, with a treatment rate of 10% it should last me for about 5 oil change.

[CSV]

Caltex just introduced Havoline with Deposit Shield. Exceeds API SN rating which is the highest standard now. Though its available in malaysia for now.

 

Interested to try though i just changed my EO from w40 to w50 Chex.

 

bike seems to perform better with 50 weight. previous maxima 40 weight degraded around 2k mark, which is unusually low for 3L worth. Maxima on my phantom was the best whereby the bike felt light and vibration was minimal.

 

I guess each bike prefers different types of oil.

 

next up, ROCKOIL!

[Isopropyl]

Caltex just introduced Havoline with Deposit Shield. Exceeds API SN rating which is the highest standard now. Though its available in malaysia for now.

 

Interested to try though i just changed my EO from w40 to w50 Chex.

 

bike seems to perform better with 50 weight. previous maxima 40 weight degraded around 2k mark, which is unusually low for 3L worth. Maxima on my phantom was the best whereby the bike felt light and vibration was minimal.

 

I guess each bike prefers different types of oil.

 

next up, ROCKOIL!

 

did you experience a hit in FC changing to 50wt?