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Posted
I know there is more than enough, what i meant is the rocking for the engine at highest gear at low speed. Torque alone wont cure that.

 

usually the torque for a litre bike is more than enough for most speeds.

 

but why do you want to go at very low speed at the highest gear?

 

it doesn't mean highest gear = most efficient.

 

you need to match the gear/rpm with the speed of the bike.

the correct gear with the appropriate speed is more efficient.

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Posted
I am sure those who ride 1000cc cant move to the top gear when you are at 40-70km/h.

 

why you want to go to the top gear at such low speed?

 

 

the rpm and correct gear is actually more important.

Posted

i'm riding a middleweight bike now and at first, i hated it's high revving nature. had to literally rev the **** out of the engine to get some nice pulling from the middle of the rpm range. want to overtake that lousy brat driving a sucky family car with spoilers or that fat arse in his mercedes, have to drop gear and full open throttle to really make him smell smoke. litre bike riders simply scoff and (with 1 hand resting on the tank with a yaya papaya face) open throttle slowly *poof* he's gone :lol:

 

i wanted to switch to a litre bike so badly, my lazy wrist and left foot encouraged me but in time, i sorta gotten used to the bike. it feels like a 400 below ~4500rpm but cross it and it pulls willingly. there were times where i just felt like: ah fudge it, i don't wanna close my throttle, just open smoothly to full in last gear and see how that retard crawls. to my surprise, i hit 165km/hr + in a few seconds, not very fast but very very stupid on an expressway where 30km/hr higher than the stated legal speed sends one straight to court with a revoked license. best part is, i still had 7-8000rpm to the redline.

 

it's impossible to ride a middleweight to it's full potential on singapore roads, in malaysia, discretion varies from person to person. imho, litre bikes are great fun but not so on our tp scrutinized eways. if 2a isn't enough, try a middleweight class 2, if you can't grow to like your middleweight or don't even want to bother, try a litre bike, it's a unique experience that most riders would like to have (i know i would but my wallet just told me to stfu).

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Posted

When I first rode my 2A bike on the road, I told the previous owner I bought it from, that there was so much power! Now.. You don't really feel the "pull" anymore, nor the power when you first transitioned from your 2B to 2A. Take note that riding in the driving school and riding outside is really different. You get to feel the power of the bike only when you're out on the roads.

 

Transitioning is good. It helps you to get used to the faster speed of travel until you eventually get to Class 2.

For the certainty of death and the knowledge of life's fragility, makes it worth living.

Posted

Repeated thread.....tons of such threads in SBF. Use search functions leh....all threads will yield same views, but end of day, thread starter still buy 2A bike.

 

Life is a cycle, so please recycle used threads :lol:

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Posted
why you want to go to the top gear at such low speed?

 

 

the rpm and correct gear is actually more important.

My problem is in fact I rode 400-600cc for many years and i always believe above 900cc i can surf on the torque whereby my R1 and Busa friends told mi is not possible to ride at top gear most of the time. I have understand their top gear ratio have a >300km/h. High reving nature got pros and cons.

 

Now I change gears more than a 600cc. It actually put more stress in everyday riding. As the speed approaches lower speed, you need to match the gears like you have mentioned, i have have to actually down gears rather than stay on it.

 

The myth of 600cc is enough for SG roads have finally cleared for mi. On our tp scrutinized eways, it actually put more stress on everyday riding. As on eway speed is easy to speed up to 160km/h without any effort.

 

it maybe a good thing for some but not for my case. Whereby a 600cc have 2 characteristics whereby under 6000rpm is quite soft for some, but when it reached 5 digits rpm, it would catapult like a scalded cat if you want it to.

Bikes Owned: LC125 RXZ135 GSXR400RP CB400VS CB400Spec2 SV650 02CBRF4i FZ1000 CBR929 05YZF-R6 CBR150 HondaSonic125 Yamaha_CygnusX125 KymcoGrandink_250 Hornet_250 04_Yamaha_Tmax Silverwing 400 FZ6_S2 GSXR600K7

 

Current bikes: NIL

Gear 4th

http://45.media.tumblr.com/f183dbd75b05df79cf6f77dba98d7339/tumblr_o1sqbk4h8Z1s5rcozo1_400.gif

Posted

Had no probs riding my R1 on the road. 6th gear 4K rpm = 95kph.

 

So I used 1st gear up to 50 kph, skipped to 3rd, throttle to 100kph, then skipped to 6th and just chilled all the way at 100.

 

When I want to use its bite, I'd be at the track or past customs on 2nd link.

 

 

Otherwise, I'll use my Phantom to putter around in SG.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v161/DeusXMachina/Lean2a.jpg
Posted
My problem is in fact I rode 400-600cc for many years and i always believe above 900cc i can surf on the torque whereby my R1 and Busa friends told mi is not possible to ride at top gear most of the time. I have understand their top gear ratio have a >300km/h. High reving nature got pros and cons.

 

Now I change gears more than a 600cc. It actually put more stress in everyday riding. As the speed approaches lower speed, you need to match the gears like you have mentioned, i have have to actually down gears rather than stay on it.

 

The myth of 600cc is enough for SG roads have finally cleared for mi. On our tp scrutinized eways, it actually put more stress on everyday riding. As on eway speed is easy to speed up to 160km/h without any effort.

 

it maybe a good thing for some but not for my case. Whereby a 600cc have 2 characteristics whereby under 6000rpm is quite soft for some, but when it reached 5 digits rpm, it would catapult like a scalded cat if you want it to.

 

that's why many litre bikes and above owners get a side bike. :cheeky:

 

i do agree with you, 600 is enough for sg roads and some touring.

got enough low end torque for daily riding, and quite good top end when you need it.

 

however it may seem boring to some as the power seems very "flat". but it's very easy to utilize the power. much usable.

 

saw my friend ride his fz6 like a toy bike, flip here and there. squeeze everywhere. when go msia, easily shoot > 230km/hr.

 

however for the real thing, nothing beats the litre bikes.

or maybe you can try a 750, best of both worlds?

 

but seriously for sg commuting, a phantom is very comfortable too.

can put box sumore.

Posted
no need lar. just stay with your spark and play pick up at traffic lights with the bigger bikes. =)

 

Haha, that's quite fierce.

~ Future Ride ~

CBR600rr :thumb:

 

~ Current Drive ~

Kia Cerato Forte SX 1.6 SJU

 

~ Previous Rides ~

1. Spark 135 FBA | 2. NSR 150 SP FS | 3. Yamaha x1 FY | 4. Honda s4 verS FP

Posted

What about roadbikes with detuned engine for city riding (Fazer, Bandit etc), their power range should be in the lower RPM, right?

Posted
What about roadbikes with detuned engine for city riding (Fazer, Bandit etc), their power range should be in the lower RPM, right?

 

actually no. doesn't really change much, just a little more torque but an inline 4 engine will always stay true to it's nature. the manufacturers do play cheat a little with the sprocket sizes so people will think that wah my race engine detune liao got this more power in the lower range..

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Posted

i am riding a wr200 , next year may 8th can enrol class 2 already. i never own a 2A bike cos i don like any of them and is a waste of money if the final aim is a class2 bike. just my 2cents worth:cheeky:

Posted

I would advice just be careful.Regarding having a side bike, I have my view on it.

Healthy discussion,No offense to anyone, the cl2 are good in term of road holding,braking and power to get out tricky situation than 2b,2a bikes.

 

That y I would never get a side bike since I spend so much on them for their much desirable advantage. Even one day my back give up on me, and can no longer ride sport bike anymore I would get a Fazer 600, or cl2 naked bike...

Bikes Owned: LC125 RXZ135 GSXR400RP CB400VS CB400Spec2 SV650 02CBRF4i FZ1000 CBR929 05YZF-R6 CBR150 HondaSonic125 Yamaha_CygnusX125 KymcoGrandink_250 Hornet_250 04_Yamaha_Tmax Silverwing 400 FZ6_S2 GSXR600K7

 

Current bikes: NIL

Gear 4th

http://45.media.tumblr.com/f183dbd75b05df79cf6f77dba98d7339/tumblr_o1sqbk4h8Z1s5rcozo1_400.gif

Posted
I would advice just be careful.Regarding having a side bike, I have my view on it.

Healthy discussion,No offense to anyone, the cl2 are good in term of road holding,braking and power to get out tricky situation than 2b,2a bikes.

 

That y I would never get a side bike since I spend so much on them for their much desirable advantage. Even one day my back give up on me, and can no longer ride sport bike anymore I would get a Fazer 600, or cl2 naked bike...

 

yeah, i once posted that i have no confidence riding a cub kia with thin and slippery stock tyres. got flamed for it.

 

the wider tyres, better grip together with the superb braking efficiency of most class2 bikes are really useful even in daily riding.

Posted
yeah, i once posted that i have no confidence riding a cub kia with thin and slippery stock tyres. got flamed for it.

 

the wider tyres, better grip together with the superb braking efficiency of most class2 bikes are really useful even in daily riding.

Same here, when i rode my friend new Sxxxx135....I think my mountain

bike can brake better due to its dual rotors set up.....

Bikes Owned: LC125 RXZ135 GSXR400RP CB400VS CB400Spec2 SV650 02CBRF4i FZ1000 CBR929 05YZF-R6 CBR150 HondaSonic125 Yamaha_CygnusX125 KymcoGrandink_250 Hornet_250 04_Yamaha_Tmax Silverwing 400 FZ6_S2 GSXR600K7

 

Current bikes: NIL

Gear 4th

http://45.media.tumblr.com/f183dbd75b05df79cf6f77dba98d7339/tumblr_o1sqbk4h8Z1s5rcozo1_400.gif

Posted

I rode 200, 400, 600 then now 800. IMHO, getting 2A is useful but not critical. It all depends on confidence, skill and mentality. Just give enough respect to the bike.

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Posted
actually no. doesn't really change much, just a little more torque but an inline 4 engine will always stay true to it's nature. the manufacturers do play cheat a little with the sprocket sizes so people will think that wah my race engine detune liao got this more power in the lower range..

 

Actually... their "de-tuning" is more towards changing

 

- cam (cam profile affects valve timing, and that affects the torque/power curve)

- ECU (ignition timing, fuel/air ratio)

- Gear ratios

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v161/DeusXMachina/Lean2a.jpg
Posted

i missed the smooth power of 600cc,litre bike is rough and u feel the vibration above 180km/h,my prev cbr600 can feel the smoothness at top speed of 265km/h..

Posted
litre bike is rough and u feel the vibration above 180km/h,my prev cbr600 can feel the smoothness at top speed of 265km/h..
how come ah? Litre bike ish not goods?
Posted
i missed the smooth power of 600cc,litre bike is rough and u feel the vibration above 180km/h,my prev cbr600 can feel the smoothness at top speed of 265km/h..

 

U sure not?

 

A liter bike is less stressed, and running at lower revs than a 600 at any given speed.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v161/DeusXMachina/Lean2a.jpg
Posted
U sure not?

 

A liter bike is less stressed, and running at lower revs than a 600 at any given speed.

Mebbe his got secret mods we all donno?

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