Kawasaki KRR150 Riders

[bukitmerah]

imo no need to use till 300v. even the guy from motul said 7100 is good enough for high performance bike for street use. unless you like go track and bike will be damn hot. then i think 300v will be useful.

to think that you also like me. never gone above 9k. nowadays ppl like us very rare le lor. haha.

 

my idea is simple: if i pay so much more money, it better be super duper near perfect, if not why pay more? of course more money MUST be better lah, or else why pay more?

 

you are joking, i don't even dare to go near 9k, besides 9k rpm on my bike is not even as fast as your maybe 7+k rpm on your bike?

[gutripper]

tried 95 & 98 on my kr, can't really tell the difference. However last time on previous old bike, 92 & 95 got VERY BIG difference. 92 makes my old bike "vibrate" & "shake" a lot with many white smoke, long journey get wrist pain. stick to 95 & NO problems at all. So i dare not use 92 on my kr so far. Maybe it is my previous bike was too old but i won't risk it. sticking to at least 95. maybe it won't make a difference if your bike is in good condition.

 

 

 

woah bro, the Motul "7100?" you used is like MORE than the total costs of my 2T & 4T & spark plug combined with still got some change left to buy kopi for mechanic.

 

300v so EXPENSIVE ah? It better be super bloody good then!

so big differences in budget we are talking about.

 

when i just got my bike, it was on mineral 2t that lasted me A LONG WAY around 1800+ km but the engine "screams" above 8k rpm so i "Just Let Go"...some more valve will sometimes jam. however when i change to semi-syn 2t, valve "automatically" "clears" by itself, i didn't do anything at all ! ( you know my bo chap pattern, i know nothing about fixing bikes )

 

when the bike "don't want", don't force. i just let it go. So if only using for transport, should not be a problem. maybe your friend want to "hard hard come" force the bike to go fast, so bike cannot tahan.

 

must treat bike like girl mah, she "don't want", don't "force" lah

 

 

 

paiseh, it means i shouldn't have answered your question, i have never gone above 9k ( even that is very rare for me ) so i am not qualified to tell the differences when at high "red-line" rpms.

 

Hmm...i have only tried 92, 98 and Shell V-power. Never tried 95. My FC is good. I don't mind paying the extra 1 dollar for better comfort and "shiokness". Its ok for u to reply. I have still learnt some stuff from your reply. Thanks.

[edwinwu91]

Hi guys. I got a hard-to-remove stain due to petrol leak. Any good ideas to remove the petrol stain? Thanks.

[garrickchoww]

Ya I get what u mean.

 

 

Use sticker and tuck in a little behind number plate. Won't fly out.

 

 

 

 

Hmmm...10cents difference per litre liddat lor. For about 1 dollar more per top-up I get a better pickup and smoother. It's really up to personal preference. For krr....92 also can use. No problem one.

 

hm i see... I dun dare 92...liken nt power only!!!

So far i will stick to 95 n above .NVR compromise other than that man..that's my stand.

Edited August 18, 2011 by garrickchoww

[garrickchoww]

@bugsy_

@edwinwu91

 

hm...i see thanks for info:) GG jb this sat.

Yeap will try V POWER one day!!!

[garrickchoww]

haha.. not really..

I'm not sure on other brands as I only tried Motul and one japanese brand for the past 3 years +..

Japanese brand is better but no longer available it's meant to keep your Engine as cool as possible..

Motul 300v and 7100, 300v is $30 or $32 (makes your bike lighter)

7100 $28 (change gear more smooth)

But I still prefer 7100.. even 300v is the more "premium" one.. I guess each of us knows what's best for our bike...

 

 

 

Yo bro.. 2T, if you dun wack above RPM 9, semi is ok..

Depending on how u ride den determine your 2T.. if you wan to buy those $5 one also possible.. dun wack above rpm 7.. lolx.. my friend's piston jam because he buy $5 2T (thinking he's going to sell off his bike the next day) wack today, piston jam at RPm8.. LOL..

 

Fuel grade depends on how responsive your bike will become.. *no damage to extremely little damage on petrol.. as we have our 2T pump to feed our piston 2T..

 

 

Yo bro haha ur friend sibei funny ah sial...hahaha!

HAHA i see... i gg MY this sat..So will prob b buying castrol from there!!!

No worries.. i wont use 5bucks 2T ..Today i juz folo-ed my frd Super4 go Mustafa..otw there halfway he ask me catch up n whack.Think got reach rpm8.

I using shell VSX..cost me 12 bucks.. so far still ok i think.At least better than the one the AS.Phoon gave me..called unclube.Like lousy only~

Edited August 18, 2011 by garrickchoww

[garrickchoww]

The other kr(orange) in MINE !!

Shell bumb into u soon. !!

 

WOAH COOL!~I suspected so too....U cheena boy ritez..Been observing n looking at ur KR for over a year sia..each time i head home n climb up the stairs~ COOL !!!Now i got felloW KR forum buddy who stays at my block.Contact me at 81632898 if wanna meet bro!! hehe ^^

 

 

THANKS EVERYONE.Really learn alot from u all man.

Sorry for spam...T-T

[Kyrul]

Use Motul 710 2T and can whack to RPM 12-13 without jamming like me =D

 

Ups for gd 2t!.. Anw those rider always like to ride high rpm pls use gd 2t. Worth the investment.. Engine lasts longer, lesser wear n tear

[wayliang]

my idea is simple: if i pay so much more money, it better be super duper near perfect, if not why pay more? of course more money MUST be better lah, or else why pay more?

 

you are joking, i don't even dare to go near 9k, besides 9k rpm on my bike is not even as fast as your maybe 7+k rpm on your bike?

its the same.

 

Hi guys. I got a hard-to-remove stain due to petrol leak. Any good ideas to remove the petrol stain? Thanks.

petrol leaked onto your paintwork? petrol will most likely 'eat' away your paintwork. your laquer first. if your layer of lacquer is thick then better. wont kanna paintwork.

careful next time on petrol. brake fluid lifts up paintwork too. its more terrible than petrol.

[edwinwu91]

@bugsy_

@edwinwu91

 

hm...i see thanks for info:) GG jb this sat.

Yeap will try V POWER one day!!!

 

you gg in tml? wanna go together? we go together lurh. text me at 94240920. call more people then we go together. =)

[edwinwu91]

its the same.

 

 

petrol leaked onto your paintwork? petrol will most likely 'eat' away your paintwork. your laquer first. if your layer of lacquer is thick then better. wont kanna paintwork.

careful next time on petrol. brake fluid lifts up paintwork too. its more terrible than petrol.

 

where can i get the lacquer?

[wayliang]

where can i get the lacquer?

 

i think cannot just touch up like that. you need to ask those painting experts. like blueacidic. alvin etc.

[drak3st3r]

For krr minimum RON(petrol quality) is 93 so if you pump 92, you will actually have pinging or engine knocking as ur fuel in the cylinder is self igniting instead of being ignited by the spark plug.

SO KRR DON'T PUMP BELOW 95.

V-power, Esso F1 and those expensive petrol is actually around 100 hence the added power and cost more.

Google engine pinging or engine detonation and you will understand more.

 

As for 2t, cheap doesn't mean useless. First u need to understand how and why engine seize(piston sieze or piston jam) happens.

To put it in simple terms, engine seizure happens cause the piston is not lubricated enough AND not cooled enough hence it expands then scrap against the block or cylinder wall then expand too much till no side clearence resulting in scraped metal 'locking' piston rings then suddenly your bike dies, your rear wheel locks, you fishtail and all the words start flying from your mouth. JAM

 

Petrol has 3 jobs that is to burn, lubricate and cool the piston. 2t is just to help to lubricate. Because petrol alone is not enough to lubricate the engine bearings, piston and stuffs. When whack like mad the 2t and petrol burned isn't replaced in time. The pistons starts heating up and expands fast resulting in friction, no 2t and petrol , rub rub rub rub rub then jam.

My friend uses motul high performance engine oil 2t and V-power. Just going at 90 on expressway, suddenly jam. Later find out carb not clean so clog main jet then not enough petrol goin into engine so piston jam.

 

I'm not saying all these expensive oils are no good. All I'm saying is they ain't a guarantee.

If u really want to whack mad and reduce ur chances of piston jam. Then go make sure you oil pump is set properly, ur carb is clean. The jet sizes are proper, your fuel and 2t tubes are clear, use a good fuel filter and check your air filters are in good condition. Use a gd coolant and also make sure the radiator is not clogged. Then use average 2t n petrol also can whack high high. All these information, is from my personal experience and research.

 

No offence to anyone.

 

I justify by my explanation because if I can use SPC mineral oil 2t and SPC 92 and SPC engine oil for my 23 year old TZR 125 and still whack and chase my friend super 4 and go from bbdc till bedok at 130 and all and not even a single piston jam in the 8 months i rode it, I dun think I need explain further.

 

Once again no offence to anyone, just my 20cents.Ride Safe

Edited April 9, 2012 by drak3st3r

[asdhao]

anyone know insurance for 21yo+(2yrs riding exp) cost range ? thanks

[adesmond2]

for kr minimum RON is 93 so if u use 92 u will actually have pinging or engine knocking as ur petrol is denonating and not fired by the spark plug. so kr dun go below 95 v-power is actuall around 100 hence the added power.

 

google engine pinging or engine detonation and u should understand more. as for 2t doesnt mean 2t cheap then useless. first u need to understand y engine seize happen

is cause piston not lubricated enough AND piston not cooled enough hence expand then rub against the block then expand too much no side clearence then jam.

 

petrol has 3 jobs that is to burn, lubricate and cool the piston. 2t is just to help to lubricate. cause petrol alone not enough. when whack like mad the 2t dont have time to coat the whole piston as the petrol and cant do it work properly.the pistons starts heating up then expand become bigger then more friction, no 2t and petrol , rub rub rub rub rub then jam.

my friend use motul high performance engine oil 2t v-power. just goin at 90 on expressway jam. later find out carb not clean so clog main jet then not enough petrol goin into engine so piston jam.

 

im not saying all these expensive oil are no gd.

all im saying is they aint a gurrantee.

if u really want to whack mad and reduce ur chances of piston. go make sure you oil pump is set properly, ur carb is clog free. the jet sizes are proper, ur tubes are clear, filter gd ones. use a gd coolant, make sure radiator not clogged. then use average 2t n petrol also can whack high high. all these info is from my experience and research. no offence to anyone.

 

i justify by my explanation because if i can use spc mineral oil 2t and spc 92 and spc engine oil for my 23 year oil tzr and still whack and chase my friend super 4 and go from bbdc till bedok at 130 and all the things and not even a single piston jam in the 8 months i rode it i dun think i need explain more.

 

 

once again no offence to anyone, just my 20cents.

 

This is a great explanation!

 

It does make sense so no one will flame you.. lolx.. dun worry about it..

[drak3st3r]

anyone know insurance for 21yo+(2yrs riding exp) cost range ? thanks

 

bro its 600 to 700, im 21+, 2+years riding experience. $642 ntuc, $800 msig.

[drak3st3r]

This is a great explanation!

 

It does make sense so no one will flame you.. lolx.. dun worry about it..

 

haha. thanks bro. just scared cause i just come in then start talking.

[adesmond2]

bro its 600 to 700, im 21+, 2+years riding experience. $642 ntuc, $800 msig.

 

wow.. still pain.. $642...

Lucky I'm old liaoz.. heehee..

 

haha. thanks bro. just scared cause i just come in then start talking.

 

LOL.. no worries.. experience counted.. and it does make sense..

 

*dun tell me this will do, "use cheap 2T to get good FC, because rough and good FC lor" *who would buy it? whahaha!!

[alvin8787]

for kr minimum RON is 93 so if u use 92 u will actually have pinging or engine knocking as ur petrol is denonating and not fired by the spark plug. so kr dun go below 95 v-power is actuall around 100 hence the added power.

 

google engine pinging or engine detonation and u should understand more. as for 2t doesnt mean 2t cheap then useless. first u need to understand y engine seize happen

is cause piston not lubricated enough AND piston not cooled enough hence expand then rub against the block then expand too much no side clearence then jam.

 

petrol has 3 jobs that is to burn, lubricate and cool the piston. 2t is just to help to lubricate. cause petrol alone not enough. when whack like mad the 2t dont have time to coat the whole piston as the petrol and cant do it work properly.the pistons starts heating up then expand become bigger then more friction, no 2t and petrol , rub rub rub rub rub then jam.

my friend use motul high performance engine oil 2t v-power. just goin at 90 on expressway jam. later find out carb not clean so clog main jet then not enough petrol goin into engine so piston jam.

 

im not saying all these expensive oil are no gd.

all im saying is they aint a gurrantee.

if u really want to whack mad and reduce ur chances of piston. go make sure you oil pump is set properly, ur carb is clog free. the jet sizes are proper, ur tubes are clear, filter gd ones. use a gd coolant, make sure radiator not clogged. then use average 2t n petrol also can whack high high. all these info is from my experience and research. no offence to anyone.

 

i justify by my explanation because if i can use spc mineral oil 2t and spc 92 and spc engine oil for my 23 year oil tzr and still whack and chase my friend super 4 and go from bbdc till bedok at 130 and all the things and not even a single piston jam in the 8 months i rode it i dun think i need explain more.

 

 

once again no offence to anyone, just my 20cents.

 

very good n clear explanation!

[garrickchoww]

you gg in tml? wanna go together? we go together lurh. text me at 94240920. call more people then we go together. =)

 

Haha bro but i gg with my pizzahut colleagues leh.Oh man i would want to...but i think nt a good idea haha

[gutripper]

Ups for gd 2t!.. Anw those rider always like to ride high rpm pls use gd 2t. Worth the investment.. Engine lasts longer, lesser wear n tear

 

Thanks bro. Any comments on Castrol Power 1 Racing 2T?

 

for kr minimum RON is 93 so if u use 92 u will actually have pinging or engine knocking as ur petrol is denonating and not fired by the spark plug. so kr dun go below 95 v-power is actuall around 100 hence the added power.

 

google engine pinging or engine detonation and u should understand more. as for 2t doesnt mean 2t cheap then useless. first u need to understand y engine seize happen

is cause piston not lubricated enough AND piston not cooled enough hence expand then rub against the block then expand too much no side clearence then jam.

 

petrol has 3 jobs that is to burn, lubricate and cool the piston. 2t is just to help to lubricate. cause petrol alone not enough. when whack like mad the 2t dont have time to coat the whole piston as the petrol and cant do it work properly.the pistons starts heating up then expand become bigger then more friction, no 2t and petrol , rub rub rub rub rub then jam.

my friend use motul high performance engine oil 2t v-power. just goin at 90 on expressway jam. later find out carb not clean so clog main jet then not enough petrol goin into engine so piston jam.

 

im not saying all these expensive oil are no gd.

all im saying is they aint a gurrantee.

if u really want to whack mad and reduce ur chances of piston. go make sure you oil pump is set properly, ur carb is clog free. the jet sizes are proper, ur tubes are clear, filter gd ones. use a gd coolant, make sure radiator not clogged. then use average 2t n petrol also can whack high high. all these info is from my experience and research. no offence to anyone.

 

i justify by my explanation because if i can use spc mineral oil 2t and spc 92 and spc engine oil for my 23 year oil tzr and still whack and chase my friend super 4 and go from bbdc till bedok at 130 and all the things and not even a single piston jam in the 8 months i rode it i dun think i need explain more.

 

 

once again no offence to anyone, just my 20cents.

 

I learnt something new today Thanks.

 

*dun tell me this will do, "use cheap 2T to get good FC, because rough and good FC lor" *who would buy it? whahaha!!

 

Wahaha...."rough and good FC": biggest load of rubbish I heard so far.

[bukitmerah]

for kr minimum RON is 93 so if u use 92 u will actually have pinging or engine knocking as ur petrol is denonating and not fired by the spark plug. so kr dun go below 95 v-power is actuall around 100 hence the added power.

 

google engine pinging or engine detonation and u should understand more. as for 2t doesnt mean 2t cheap then useless. first u need to understand y engine seize happen

is cause piston not lubricated enough AND piston not cooled enough hence expand then rub against the block then expand too much no side clearence then jam.

 

petrol has 3 jobs that is to burn, lubricate and cool the piston. 2t is just to help to lubricate. cause petrol alone not enough. when whack like mad the 2t dont have time to coat the whole piston as the petrol and cant do it work properly.the pistons starts heating up then expand become bigger then more friction, no 2t and petrol , rub rub rub rub rub then jam.

my friend use motul high performance engine oil 2t v-power. just goin at 90 on expressway jam. later find out carb not clean so clog main jet then not enough petrol goin into engine so piston jam.

 

im not saying all these expensive oil are no gd.

all im saying is they aint a gurrantee.

if u really want to whack mad and reduce ur chances of piston. go make sure you oil pump is set properly, ur carb is clog free. the jet sizes are proper, ur tubes are clear, filter gd ones. use a gd coolant, make sure radiator not clogged. then use average 2t n petrol also can whack high high. all these info is from my experience and research. no offence to anyone.

 

i justify by my explanation because if i can use spc mineral oil 2t and spc 92 and spc engine oil for my 23 year oil tzr and still whack and chase my friend super 4 and go from bbdc till bedok at 130 and all the things and not even a single piston jam in the 8 months i rode it i dun think i need explain more.

 

 

once again no offence to anyone, just my 20cents.

 

excellent. welcome & thanks for the info.

 

 

Wahaha...."rough and good FC": biggest load of rubbish I heard so far.

 

NOT Fc, i meant 2t consumption.

 

buy a $5 mineral 2t & any fully syn 2t. pour them into different containers & straight away you will notice how much "thinner" & faster the fully syn one will FLOW than the mineral 2t.

 

poke 1 SAME-SIZED hole each into the 2 containers to let the 2t leak drop by drop & see. the fully syn will leak faster than the mineral one. ( put 2 containers below to collect back the 2 different 2t. don't waste can still use for your bike )

 

that is why fully syn 2t is "supposed" in theory give better protection to your engine. it can FLOW FASTER to "protect" that is why they are termed "faster burning". Mineral 2t can also do the same job but only do it SLOWER. Both can do the job but 1 do it FASTER than the other thus it is more expensive. The slower one though cheaper, will FLOW MORE SLOWLY to your engine. No problem when your engine is already properly "warmed up" but a problem when you rev too much TOO SOON / EARLY .

 

just to clarify my "rubbish"...

Edited August 19, 2011 by bukitmerah

[edwinwu91]

Haha bro but i gg with my pizzahut colleagues leh.Oh man i would want to...but i think nt a good idea

 

nvm. thanks. just went in also. hmmm.

[drak3st3r]

wow.. still pain.. $642...

Lucky I'm old liaoz.. heehee..

 

 

 

LOL.. no worries.. experience counted.. and it does make sense..

 

*dun tell me this will do, "use cheap 2T to get good FC, because rough and good FC lor" *who would buy it? whahaha!!

 

haha yeah but want krr have to pay the price loh

 

siala, cheap 2t gd fc.haha i dun noe what to say liao

[drak3st3r]

very good n clear explanation!

 

thanks bro