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Posted
i'm looking for a fat handle bar for my spec 3. Anyone selling?

 

Do check garage sales or better still, slackriders.com. Tons of handlebars ter.

2005 aug - 2006 oct - Wave 125s FV4517M

2006 nov - 2007 jan - Super 4 Version s FP7529R

2007 jan - 2007 sept -spark 135 FBA3986G

2007 sep - 2010 apr - Honda XR400Sm FQ2901B

- Yamaha FZ150I

2010 apr - ????????? -Honda CB400 Spec I.III

-Yamaha FZ150I

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Posted
Hey guys just I just got a Vtec 3 and I am very happy(my first 2A bike). However there's something bothering me. Posted this in the carburetor thread but nobody seem to go there so here goes:

 

My idling does not seem very stable. I can understand from a cold start the idling might not be so smooth. And true enough once the engine heats up the idling seems more constant and smooth. However at low rev just above idle the engine seems to be "pulsating" if you know what I am talking about. I can hear the engine seems to be going up and down and I can feel the vibration not being constant. It's very noticeable, and it sounds like when the engine is going to stall. This happens around 1500 to 2000rpm. So on 2nd gear for example in a carpark looking for parking space at low speed, my bike would keep jerking.

 

Anybody have any idea if this is normal or is there a problem with the carbs tuning or sync? Because if it's normal I don't want to waste $200 to $300 to wash and tune my carbs, and also I've tried some other super 4s when looking around after I passed my 2A and it seems to be common.

 

Also, anyone know if it's easy to remove the headers from the bike? I need to remove my stainless steel headers and give it a thorough polish. If anyone have a spec 3 workshop manual can pass to me?

 

ur problem sound like mine..its like irregular heart rhythm...skipping a beat or so..but mine is spec 1..what i did was just increase the idle so that it goes at 1.5rpm..its somehow more stable..but at low temp itll go like how u describe it...idk whats going on but i think ill wait for it to become more obvious..as in worse..then go service my carb...

NSR SP Dec 07

RXZ Feb Mar 08

Spark May July 08

RXZ July-Nov 08-09

X1 Dec - June 10

XR4 June Aug 10

RXZ Aug - Jan 10 - 11

S4 Feb 11- Mar 12

125z Mar 12 - ??

Posted
ur problem sound like mine..its like irregular heart rhythm...skipping a beat or so..but mine is spec 1..what i did was just increase the idle so that it goes at 1.5rpm..its somehow more stable..but at low temp itll go like how u describe it...idk whats going on but i think ill wait for it to become more obvious..as in worse..then go service my carb...

 

not a big issue, my spec 2 8 year plus never touch the carb before . at gear 2 looking for space without throttle sure will jerk . very common . save the money for other use.

Posted
Hey guys just I just got a Vtec 3 and I am very happy(my first 2A bike). However there's something bothering me. Posted this in the carburetor thread but nobody seem to go there so here goes:

 

My idling does not seem very stable. I can understand from a cold start the idling might not be so smooth. And true enough once the engine heats up the idling seems more constant and smooth. However at low rev just above idle the engine seems to be "pulsating" if you know what I am talking about. I can hear the engine seems to be going up and down and I can feel the vibration not being constant. It's very noticeable, and it sounds like when the engine is going to stall. This happens around 1500 to 2000rpm. So on 2nd gear for example in a carpark looking for parking space at low speed, my bike would keep jerking.

 

Anybody have any idea if this is normal or is there a problem with the carbs tuning or sync? Because if it's normal I don't want to waste $200 to $300 to wash and tune my carbs, and also I've tried some other super 4s when looking around after I passed my 2A and it seems to be common.

 

Also, anyone know if it's easy to remove the headers from the bike? I need to remove my stainless steel headers and give it a thorough polish. If anyone have a spec 3 workshop manual can pass to me?

 

is it like when you want to move off at traffic light the bike like want to stall? if yes, mean your floating pin in your carb old already. which will flood your carb during idling. if you want to save money, just throttle once before move off.

http://www.nea.gov.sg/cms/mss/gif/rainloc0.gif

 

Ride safely. Be courteous. =)
Posted

hi guyz,

today when i turned on my bike, all of a sudden the engine danger sign lights up but vanishes after i start the engine.

should i be on the lookout for any possible problem rising?

Posted
ur problem sound like mine..its like irregular heart rhythm...skipping a beat or so..but mine is spec 1..what i did was just increase the idle so that it goes at 1.5rpm..its somehow more stable..but at low temp itll go like how u describe it...idk whats going on but i think ill wait for it to become more obvious..as in worse..then go service my carb...

 

Hhaa. my phantom is having the same problem too lols.. but my engine died at traffic light. sad need to start and keep throttling

Class 3 - 29 May 2009

Class 2B -10 May 2010

Class 2A - 30 June 2011

2010-2011 Phantom 150

2011- Now GSR400

Posted
Hhaa. my phantom is having the same problem too lols.. but my engine died at traffic light. sad need to start and keep throttling

 

ala phantom..how much only service the carb...hahaha..one carb shouldnt be a prob to rectify it..

NSR SP Dec 07

RXZ Feb Mar 08

Spark May July 08

RXZ July-Nov 08-09

X1 Dec - June 10

XR4 June Aug 10

RXZ Aug - Jan 10 - 11

S4 Feb 11- Mar 12

125z Mar 12 - ??

Posted
Hey guys just I just got a Vtec 3 and I am very happy(my first 2A bike). However there's something bothering me. Posted this in the carburetor thread but nobody seem to go there so here goes:

 

My idling does not seem very stable. I can understand from a cold start the idling might not be so smooth. And true enough once the engine heats up the idling seems more constant and smooth. However at low rev just above idle the engine seems to be "pulsating" if you know what I am talking about. I can hear the engine seems to be going up and down and I can feel the vibration not being constant. It's very noticeable, and it sounds like when the engine is going to stall. This happens around 1500 to 2000rpm. So on 2nd gear for example in a carpark looking for parking space at low speed, my bike would keep jerking.

 

Anybody have any idea if this is normal or is there a problem with the carbs tuning or sync? Because if it's normal I don't want to waste $200 to $300 to wash and tune my carbs, and also I've tried some other super 4s when looking around after I passed my 2A and it seems to be common.

 

Also, anyone know if it's easy to remove the headers from the bike? I need to remove my stainless steel headers and give it a thorough polish. If anyone have a spec 3 workshop manual can pass to me?

 

Search my posts. I posted pdf file b4. :)

Riding Since 198+:

Honda C70, Yamaha 100 Sport, Suzuki BEST 110

Suzuki Panther 150, Yamaha 125 Antolo Scramble

YAMAHA LC135 YPVS (Trade in) 1997

YAMAHA RXZ135 (Trade in) 1998

HONDA WAVE 110 (Trade in) 2000

HONDA CBR150 Repsol (Trade in) 2004

HONDA CB400 Super Four Spec 3 Spec III (Trade in) 2010

HONDA CB400X 2014

Posted
bro,not sure if am right.but i think it quite common for a s4 to be like that?casue my old spec3(FBA) during low rpm throttle,the bike also like jerking/like go no go type.But after i install Pivot volt stabilizer and groudning,it help somehow.Yes it easy to remove the header.

 

That brings me to another question: What does voltage stabilizer and grounding do? Are they really beneficial?

Posted

Hi guys need your help here.

 

I got my bike almost 1 year ago and untill last week that i wash my carb. I was told frm the mech say previous owner changed the mainjet or pinjet something like that to a bigger size one. Then i was like thinking, no wonder my FC was like 230km/tank. At first i thought that was the average FC but found out, ppl are getting 300+km/tank.

 

So i told the mech not to changed first as i am on a tight budget. So other than changing the mainjet or pinjet etc etc, what else must i change in order for me to get my carb to be as STOCK condition as possible? Cus i dun want to get carroted from them. Thanks!

"Bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory"...

Posted

For carbs usually the most common ones are the main jet and pilot jet that ppl will change. Other than that, the wear and tear one would be the float jet (the one with the rubber cone tip). You'll definitely see results after changing all this back to stock at one go.

"Don't do onto others, what you don't want others to do onto you"

"What goes around, comes around"

Posted
ala phantom..how much only service the carb...hahaha..one carb shouldnt be a prob to rectify it..

 

Haha. since still can ride i dun care lah. Lols. 2 more months getting 2a already.. Hopefully can get a good and cheap spec 1 =)

Class 3 - 29 May 2009

Class 2B -10 May 2010

Class 2A - 30 June 2011

2010-2011 Phantom 150

2011- Now GSR400

Posted
That brings me to another question: What does voltage stabilizer and grounding do? Are they really beneficial?

 

IMO yes they work wonders on motorcycle.but not so much on car.

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/2353/85571635.png
Posted

hi guys, would like to ask a few questions, ytd i just change my coolant to engine ice, and also changed my starter carbon.

 

After changing and riding for aprox 30 mins, i parked my bike and the fan turned on. There is this super loud vibrating sound only when the fan is turn on, and this shee shee sound when my bike is on idling.. previously dont have such sounds and loud vibrating noises.

 

Btw after parking for a night also, can see some wet patch under my oil tank area on the floor, is the coolant leaking?

 

any help? thanks

A conclusion is what you get when you get tired of thinking

 

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/ac351/ianwenjun/IMG_0220-1-1.jpg

Posted
For carbs usually the most common ones are the main jet and pilot jet that ppl will change. Other than that, the wear and tear one would be the float jet (the one with the rubber cone tip). You'll definitely see results after changing all this back to stock at one go.

 

Thanks for the reply faz. = )

"Bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory"...

Posted
anyone can recommend where to duplicate spec3 key, how much currently & how long to be done?

 

Im also looking for a place to duplicate key for spec 2.

 

So far unique n the key shop beside Regina both do it for 60 including the programming.

 

Wonder if anywhere else does it for cheaper.

Posted

hi guys, for spec 1 what rack are you all using for your boxes? mine is the baseplate screws scratches the tailboard, saw some on the road got a lot space between the baseplate and the tail. looking for the kind..

Posted

hi bros.. just want to ask if anyone has experienced a kind of buzzing or vibration from somewhere at the front of the bike at a particular RPM range of about 4+k?

 

sounds quite metallic

 

it's like nothing... then buzzzzzzzzzzz... then nothing past 5k rpm.

 

at first i thought its the number plate, i tried touching it and the horns when at 4k rpm, but it didn't cure it or feel like they are the cause.

 

think the sound was always there for the past 2+ weeks that i've owned the bike, but recently began to notice it more.

 

anyone has any clue? =/

Posted

abit off topic but where can i get these turn signal?I tried LAB but could't find.

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/1194/photo1wu.jpg

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/9872/photo22l.jpg

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/2353/85571635.png
Posted
hi bros.. just want to ask if anyone has experienced a kind of buzzing or vibration from somewhere at the front of the bike at a particular RPM range of about 4+k?

 

sounds quite metallic

 

it's like nothing... then buzzzzzzzzzzz... then nothing past 5k rpm.

 

at first i thought its the number plate, i tried touching it and the horns when at 4k rpm, but it didn't cure it or feel like they are the cause.

 

think the sound was always there for the past 2+ weeks that i've owned the bike, but recently began to notice it more.

 

anyone has any clue? =/

 

Your wheel bearings? And sometimes it can be frm ur chains and sprox. Try oiling it and see how.

"Bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory"...

Posted
hi bros.. just want to ask if anyone has experienced a kind of buzzing or vibration from somewhere at the front of the bike at a particular RPM range of about 4+k?

 

sounds quite metallic

 

it's like nothing... then buzzzzzzzzzzz... then nothing past 5k rpm.

 

at first i thought its the number plate, i tried touching it and the horns when at 4k rpm, but it didn't cure it or feel like they are the cause.

 

think the sound was always there for the past 2+ weeks that i've owned the bike, but recently began to notice it more.

 

anyone has any clue? =/

 

Yep - I get a similar noise around 3K-3.5K revs. I've narrowed it down to 2 things -1) the IU-ERP device and 2) the glass pieces covering the rev counter and speed dials. My local garage helpfully put some sponge in to damp the vibrations of the IU. For the dials I've not figured a solution... yet!

2010 - Present Honda CB400 Spec III

2009-2010 Honda Phantom TA200

Posted
hi guys, would like to ask a few questions, ytd i just change my coolant to engine ice, and also changed my starter carbon.

 

After changing and riding for aprox 30 mins, i parked my bike and the fan turned on. There is this super loud vibrating sound only when the fan is turn on, and this shee shee sound when my bike is on idling.. previously dont have such sounds and loud vibrating noises.

 

Btw after parking for a night also, can see some wet patch under my oil tank area on the floor, is the coolant leaking?

 

any help? thanks

 

any help? thanks =)

A conclusion is what you get when you get tired of thinking

 

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/ac351/ianwenjun/IMG_0220-1-1.jpg

Posted

guys i just return from bike shop, and they told me that my waterpump(180) and thermostat(65) need to change, along with the stock coolant hose (180), engine ice (50) and some 3 way pump thing (65).. dunno if i remember the price correctly but they quote me 530 tentatively if the metal hose is still okay..

 

isit a lil overpriced? now my whole bike feels like a hot pan when im riding...

A conclusion is what you get when you get tired of thinking

 

http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/ac351/ianwenjun/IMG_0220-1-1.jpg

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