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CB250 Nighthawk, Following  

17 members have voted

  1. 1. CB250 Nighthawk, Following

    • Coe sufficient
    • Modding potential
    • Parts availability
    • Plugs change frequency
    • Engine oil type and change frequency
    • Lifespan of original parts
    • Flexibility of cheaper parts use
    • Moifying potential
    • Able to use any grade of petrol fuel
    • Potential for 4 rounds of COE
    • Easy to pass inspection
    • Low road tax
    • Daily ride potential
    • Low fuel consumption
    • Ease of maintenance
    • Ease of riding


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Posted

To my knowledge, the stock headlight is symmetrical, shouldnt be an issue on your side.

Doubt the left/right hand drive is an issue.

 

As for the E & DOT marking, i dont recall seeing any marking at all on the outside. (casing)

Probably there's some marking on the inside of the casing which i did not notice, cant confirm to this. =\

black&white saves life.

enquire @ [email protected] | 94786'999

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Posted

To my knowledge, the stock headlight is symmetrical, shouldnt be an issue on your side.

Doubt the left/right hand drive is an issue.

 

As for the E & DOT marking, i dont recall seeing any marking at all on the outside. (casing)

Probably there's some marking on the inside of the casing which i did not notice, cant confirm to this. =\

black&white saves life.

enquire @ [email protected] | 94786'999

Posted
I'm troubleshooting my charging system. Seems that it's not right.

What's the problem here? Battery fully charged. Coil replaced six months ago.

 

Battery at rest - 12.67V

Ignition on - 12.3V

Idling at 1300rpm - 12.1~12.2V

4-5000rpm - 12.8~12.9V

 

Checked with multimeter.

 

There's no problem with it... Your rectifier is working perfectly fine... Ignition on with all lights up use power, idling will be lesser voltage because of spark plugs using power too... :) no problem...

Posted
There's no problem with it... Your rectifier is working perfectly fine... Ignition on with all lights up use power, idling will be lesser voltage because of spark plugs using power too... :) no problem...

 

Thanks for the reply. But shouldnt it be atleast in the mid 13V when running at 4000rpm?

 

Wondering why mine is so low.

Posted
I'm troubleshooting my charging system. Seems that it's not right.

What's the problem here? Battery fully charged. Coil replaced six months ago.

 

Battery at rest - 12.67V

Ignition on - 12.3V

Idling at 1300rpm - 12.1~12.2V

4-5000rpm - 12.8~12.9V

 

Checked with multimeter.

 

Base on ur tested data..it's either ur coil or rectifier or rectifier connector is faulty...or coil and rectifier. A good charing rate should be 14.2v dc while 13.8 is very good. Anything around 13.5v dc or just above 13.2v dc is indicative of life span of components.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Base on ur tested data..it's either ur coil or rectifier or rectifier connector is faulty...or coil and rectifier. A good charing rate should be 14.2v dc while 13.8 is very good. Anything around 13.5v dc or just above 13.2v dc is indicative of life span of components.

 

Thanks for your reply Ah Pek. Then I'll just get my mechanic to check on the items mentioned.

Posted
Thanks for your reply Ah Pek. Then I'll just get my mechanic to check on the items mentioned.

 

A good mech would first check the heat resistance plastic rectifier connector first for any burn marks and rust on connector pin blabes. If all is well..he will use a ok rectifier to 'replaced' and chck for correct voltage. If reult is bad..confirmed coil liao. If he really good and honest..he will replaced back ur old rectifier after replacing a new coil. If all is well..means u need not change rectifier.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
A good mech would first check the heat resistance plastic rectifier connector first for any burn marks and rust on connector pin blabes. If all is well..he will use a ok rectifier to 'replaced' and chck for correct voltage. If reult is bad..confirmed coil liao. If he really good and honest..he will replaced back ur old rectifier after replacing a new coil. If all is well..means u need not change rectifier.

 

Hi Ah Pek, thanks. I will try to talk and check with my mech if can try to use an ok rectifier to check first. But since I changed my coil not long ago, is the lifespan so bad?

Posted
Hi Ah Pek, thanks. I will try to talk and check with my mech if can try to use an ok rectifier to check first. But since I changed my coil not long ago, is the lifespan so bad?

 

No..unless that unit is a second one being installed without ur presence or left bike overnite at mototiam..anyrhing can happened and I do know this happened b4. There are cheap product made in China too..u have gotten one I do not know. Not sure what version of S4 u are riding but currently there is low or no stock at all for original ones..if have..freaking xpensive as demand is short.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
No..unless that unit is a second one being installed without ur presence or left bike overnite at mototiam..anyrhing can happened and I do know this happened b4. There are cheap product made in China too..u have gotten one I do not know. Not sure what version of S4 u are riding but currently there is low or no stock at all for original ones..if have..freaking xpensive as demand is short.

 

Yup, checked with distributor but they carry no stocks. Hopefully is not the coil problem, do not wish to part with money that much again.

Posted (edited)

Dear Cb400SF Riders,

 

Does anyone know if there is and where is the "Model plate" or "Manufacturer plate" or "data plate" on a CB400SF ? In order to homologate the bike in my country I must show it. I know where the Frame number and the Engine number are" but not where is that aluminum sticker (I am not sure the exact name of it in english could be "model plate", or "manufacturer plate" or "data plate", it should be an aluminum sticker ) ?

 

Would it be possible it is something not obligatory to have on Japanese bike made for Japan (or SIN or AUS) ?

 

It should show information about the maker (Honda), the Noise level (in Decibel), some Weight info, and possibly the Co2 level (

 

That would really help me, there is nothing about it the Honda manual.

 

Thanks

 

Jerome

Edited by djsick2000
Posted
Thanks for the reply. But shouldnt it be atleast in the mid 13V when running at 4000rpm?

 

Wondering why mine is so low.

 

Have u tried checking it after leaving it running for a few minutes? Should be 13-14V by then... Mine is the same... Idling 12, rpm 4-5k 13.5, after few minutes 14.2

Posted
I'm having this problem where the gear sometimes slips down from 5th of fourth upon hard riding. any reason for this?

 

Clutch slip maybe..

 

Have u tried checking it after leaving it running for a few minutes? Should be 13-14V by then... Mine is the same... Idling 12, rpm 4-5k 13.5, after few minutes 14.2

 

Still the same. I took the effort to bring my multimeter during riding, stop halfway and test. Same result..

 

But found out something new.. If i maintain 2k rpm constant, it will rise up to 14V however will drop back to 12.7 when reach 4-5k.

Posted

Anyone out there have your 2centsworth on why a CB400 super four ver. S might emmit white smoke ? The coolant may be leaking into the engine due to a worn out head gasket. The head gasket may be worn out due to low engine oil or not changing or topping off the oil when its time..? White smoke mainly due to coolant mixing with fuel in engine...? Need some answers...

Posted (edited)

Hi

I have a version r and i am thinking to made up an upgrade.I would like to ask you if it is possible and how.

The fork and the calipers that i have is the original version r,i think is the 2piston nissin same with pb1.

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b446/itom32/1037394_3_b.jpg

I want to change them with the 4 piston nissin calipers like version s fiiiT

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b446/itom32/003-005.gif

Does anybody knows if there are some kind of brackets or adapters for this job,or i must start looking for version s fork cases??

Edited by itom32

CB400 VTEC SpecIII Owner's Manual download

 

CB400 VTEC SpecIII Service Manual download

Posted

I got some news !

 

To anyone who would be wondering also...

 

For info, I contacted the shop where I bought the bike. Apparently, Japanese bikes over 250CC sold for the Japanese market (+ possibly Singapore and Australia too obviously), does not have any plate like these. (in the contrary to all bikes sold in Europe).

 

Good rides to all !

Posted (edited)

Well i found out the solution by myself.The 4 piston calipers that i have found is nissin from cbr600f4(1998).

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b446/itom32/DSC00001-2.jpg

It's the same calipers with first version s fiiiT:

http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b446/itom32/003-005.gif

I will use this kind of adapters to fit to my fork:

http://japan.webike.net/products/86719.html

I forgot to mention that the VTR1000 is equipt with the same calipers.

The question is if there are more cheaper adapters,somewhere.

Edited by itom32

CB400 VTEC SpecIII Owner's Manual download

 

CB400 VTEC SpecIII Service Manual download

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