Yamaha YZF R1ders

[TinyTanic]

soak in wat bro? engine oil ah? y must soak? hmm..

 

If never soak n u just whack fix up, the clutch will always engage like stick hard together like tat. U kick in first gear it will die off. Cos ive try b4 on my tzm... so its better to soak in E.O to make it not to stick together n got librication. If got ppls can help me explain better. Me no good at explaining.

 

UPPZZZ~!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Wooohoooo... Free mechanic next time round...

guys u know who to call!!! =P

 

Hahaha. Dont double quote lah bro... Aniway, how to pose pics from iphone???

[Muskal]

ic ic. upzz.. gd effort bro. save labour cost. wanna learn also how to diy stuff. oni thing done so far is chage own end can. nxt wanna try the brake pad.. learning2

[TinyTanic]

ic ic. upzz.. gd effort bro. save labour cost. wanna learn also how to diy stuff. oni thing done so far is chage own end can. nxt wanna try the brake pad.. learning2

 

Brake pad lagik easy... 1/2 and hour u can finish both front pad without doin bleeding. Just stand by degreaser or brake cleaner.

[pum9kin_h3ad]

Brake pad lagik easy... 1/2 and hour u can finish both front pad without doin bleeding. Just stand by degreaser or brake cleaner.

 

Bro, planning to open your own bike servicing shop soon?

[TinyTanic]

Bro, planning to open your own bike servicing shop soon?

 

Haha. No capital lah bro. Just free lance mechanic can lah. Ahakz

[Muskal]

Haha. No capital lah bro. Just free lance mechanic can lah. Ahakz

 

freelance = free mechanic? haha. i tink changing urself save cost..

[TinyTanic]

freelance = free mechanic? haha. i tink changing urself save cost..

 

yup super true... save alot of $$$ on labour charge. And u can knw how well or badly ur bike performs if do it on ur own....

[TinyTanic]

guys heres the pics....

 

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/6375/32731447.jpg

remove fairing, drain eo and pardon my dad at the back... he look n give in a help to prepare the tools

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/8475/38087581.jpg

drain plug and spanner size 17

http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/9959/88260793.jpg

frame slider remove break torque on the clutch bolt and un-latch the clutch cable

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/1482/50824219.jpg

the carbon graphite gasket

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/3267/15325339.jpg

new bearings clutch plate n roller bearing ready to be fix... soak overnite

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/5585/48466667.jpg

friction plate ready to be use

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/5376/35451059.jpg

the real thing... clutch assembly

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9493/22025502.jpg

back of the clutch cover. can u spot the graphite carbon gasket?

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/2611/23144348.jpg

see the push rod? tats the freaking hard piece to align when fixing up

http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/8784/41722348.jpg

see the pink marking? still like new after 47090km

http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/3523/35798739.jpg

clutch springs clutch bolt and the shims

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/6051/77156539.jpg

the pressure plate. removing of the bearing i use brass bar n rubber mallet

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/6751/59409665.jpg

only the 1st clutch plate has the different marking while the rest follow the same on the centre marking

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7977/84074581.jpg

friction plate slight bluish

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/2481/81247237.jpg

1st plate on the right while the last inner plate is on the left

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/5387/54488425.jpg

the wear marking is visible n turn bluish soon if not change

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/489/75361479.jpg

the damage deep scoring on the last friction plate

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/9068/30136510.jpg

the close up image

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/8277/36703639.jpg

final pics before i start stripping the clutch assembly.

Edited December 26, 2010 by TinyTanic

[MI_R1]

guys heres the pics....

 

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/6375/32731447.jpg

remove fairing, drain eo and pardon my dad at the back... He look n give in a help to prepare the tools

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/8475/38087581.jpg

drain plug and spanner size 17

http://img264.imageshack.us/img264/9959/88260793.jpg

frame slider remove break torque on the clutch bolt and un-latch the clutch cable

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/1482/50824219.jpg

the carbon graphite gasket

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/3267/15325339.jpg

new bearings clutch plate n roller bearing ready to be fix... Soak overnite

http://img522.imageshack.us/img522/5585/48466667.jpg

friction plate ready to be use

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/5376/35451059.jpg

the real thing... Clutch assembly

http://img402.imageshack.us/img402/9493/22025502.jpg

back of the clutch cover. Can u spot the graphite carbon gasket?

http://img690.imageshack.us/img690/2611/23144348.jpg

see the push rod? Tats the freaking hard piece to align when fixing up

http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/8784/41722348.jpg

see the pink marking? Still like new after 47090km

http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/3523/35798739.jpg

clutch springs clutch bolt and the shims

http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/6051/77156539.jpg

the pressure plate. Removing of the bearing i use brass bar n rubber mallet

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/6751/59409665.jpg

only the 1st clutch plate has the different marking while the rest follow the same on the centre marking

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7977/84074581.jpg

friction plate slight bluish

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/2481/81247237.jpg

1st plate on the right while the last inner plate is on the left

http://img291.imageshack.us/img291/5387/54488425.jpg

the wear marking is visible n turn bluish soon if not change

http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/489/75361479.jpg

the damage deep scoring on the last friction plate

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/9068/30136510.jpg

the close up image

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/8277/36703639.jpg

final pics before i start stripping the clutch assembly.

 

well done.....

[TinyTanic]

well done.....

 

Thanx bro....

[Muskal]

nice pic bro.. congrats. noher knowledge gain.. ya i believe if u hands on your own bike , u wld knw it well. cant be some one who rides n leave it all to mech.. they are doing business no matter hw nice hey will also chop u also.. gt a fren who is too reliant on mech. changing spark plug also he go to shop as he say don dare take out.. haiyo. neva try den neva learn..

[winner]

Hi any bro riding r1 08 can tell me full tank can go how far before fuel light on? Thanks

[TinyTanic]

nice pic bro.. congrats. noher knowledge gain.. ya i believe if u hands on your own bike , u wld knw it well. cant be some one who rides n leave it all to mech.. they are doing business no matter hw nice hey will also chop u also.. gt a fren who is too reliant on mech. changing spark plug also he go to shop as he say don dare take out.. haiyo. neva try den neva learn..

 

Haha. Pics is normal bro. But taking the pics is hard. Me having hard time glove on glove off just to snap the pics. So when will be ur turn to show ur DIY project???

 

 

Hi any bro riding r1 08 can tell me full tank can go how far before fuel light on? Thanks

 

Ive try mine, get 200-210 b4 reserve. Maintain 90-100km/h

[winner]

Thanks bro, cos my friend one only can go 160km before the light on..... Thanks

[detoxifyed]

Hey any kind souls can help me with my problem, my bike keeps on and off shut off, sometimes when clutch in and sometimes when i'm opening throttle then die off, i've changed the magnetic and fuel pump but still like that isit the throttle body sensor? or anything that you guys can share with me? needs help...!

[Muskal]

Thanks bro, cos my friend one only can go 160km before the light on..... Thanks

i tink ur fren riding style bro. wen i just get the my r1, i also use to get aard 180 then reserve.. now ard 200 to 210 average. i get b4 225. depends hw u ride.

[Muskal]

Haha. Pics is normal bro. But taking the pics is hard. Me having hard time glove on glove off just to snap the pics. So when will be ur turn to show ur DIY project???

 

if i gt chance to learn from someone or look t videos i would bro. haha. exciting to diy on the bike.. can learn more stuff..

[TinyTanic]

if i gt chance to learn from someone or look t videos i would bro. haha. exciting to diy on the bike.. can learn more stuff..

 

Sure can lah. Trust urself fully when u do major big project...

 

Aniway regarding sum technical question, my voltage when idle is 13.4v - 13.6v. When riding the highest voltage it can go is 14.0v. Isit still ok or time to change the coil?

[TinyTanic]

if i gt chance to learn from someone or look t videos i would bro. haha. exciting to diy on the bike.. can learn more stuff..

 

Sure can lah. Trust urself fully when u do major big project...

 

Aniway regarding sum technical question, my voltage when idle is 13.4v - 13.6v. When riding the highest voltage it can go is 14.0v. Isit still ok or time to change the coil?

[tsm]

Hey any kind souls can help me with my problem, my bike keeps on and off shut off, sometimes when clutch in and sometimes when i'm opening throttle then die off, i've changed the magnetic and fuel pump but still like that isit the throttle body sensor? or anything that you guys can share with me? needs help...!

 

Do you mean clutch in hit gear 1 and it will die off? or even in neutral gear open throttle will kill it?

[tsm]

Sure can lah. Trust urself fully when u do major big project...

 

Aniway regarding sum technical question, my voltage when idle is 13.4v - 13.6v. When riding the highest voltage it can go is 14.0v. Isit still ok or time to change the coil?

 

14V is good. Coil is OK.

Edited December 27, 2010 by tsm

[fly24leo]

Hi any bro riding r1 08 can tell me full tank can go how far before fuel light on? Thanks

 

mine 220 - 230km usually ...

depending on how full u squeeze and top up yr tank...

its good to maintain a full tank while riding as the whole tank will be damn hot if its empty....

 

Hey any kind souls can help me with my problem, my bike keeps on and off shut off, sometimes when clutch in and sometimes when i'm opening throttle then die off, i've changed the magnetic and fuel pump but still like that isit the throttle body sensor? or anything that you guys can share with me? needs help...!

 

yr model is R1 '07-08 model ?

try washing yr throttle body...

meantime.. take care while riding and be careful as u know yr engine may stall when the pipes blow off louder than usual...

[LeonHaslam]

Nah I'm riding one too, but I'm a lurker at the thread there. Noticed you posting.

 

:help:

i'm a lady rider n dun wish to be stalked

 

 

Btw, Merry Xmas n Happy new Year guys...was on leave since Fri n back to office today...abit late for wishing all R1 Riders....

 

anyway Armpit good job on your project!! any side effects? hehehe...

[TinyTanic]

Yo haslam thanx... Yup2 very good side effect bro. Now clutch in no more rattle n not as jerky when kick in 1st gear. N only problem is align the push rod into the cluch cover.. Took me almost an hour to fix tat cover... Almost give up...

[winner]

hi bro, when my friend got the bike, full tank only can go 140km. then he when back to bike shop and the shop adjust something and the bike can go 160km. now the bike shop ask him to send back again and check.