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Posted
Hey Ah Pek, Thanks for the grounding, bike pickup feels better! Do let me know if u got stocks for valve cleaner. Thanks again.

 

Ok..if any..will get for you guys.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Ah pek, my bike is having problem picking up speed from 100km/h+ onwards.

During that speed at gear 6, my rmp will slowly drop

Stay at around 6k rmp, cannot go higher.(rmp cannot increase even if i throttle more)

If i drop to gear 5, slightly more power but the rmp increases very slowly. The most is up to 7 rmp then cannot go up anymore le.

last time have no problem going to 120km but now after 100km is very hard to increase speed le.

Do you know why?

Is it clutch problem?

Can it be possible that 1 of my spark plug was removed?

Coz i don't know what the bike shop did when i send my bike for repair due to the coolant leaking.

 

 

I also read something posted by Fazli at the starting few pages of this thread.

 

Guys, for your info:

 

My bike the stuttering and flat spot as well as my engine die off was because of my meter. There is a PCB in the SPEEDOMETER side which broke and caused the current to leak. Was solved by the mechanic from Combine Motors. luckily it wasn't my CDI. Cost me $200+ to change just the internal of the SPEEDOMETER.

 

Now my bike feels good. FC also getting better.

 

Is it possible that it is caused by current leak?

Because i also change my circuit board before.

maybe current is leaking inside?

 

Thanks :)

Posted
Ah pek, my bike is having problem picking up speed from 100km/h+ onwards.

During that speed at gear 6, my rmp will slowly drop

Stay at around 6k rmp, cannot go higher.(rmp cannot increase even if i throttle more)

If i drop to gear 5, slightly more power but the rmp increases very slowly. The most is up to 7 rmp then cannot go up anymore le.

last time have no problem going to 120km but now after 100km is very hard to increase speed le.

Do you know why?

Is it clutch problem?

Can it be possible that 1 of my spark plug was removed?

Coz i don't know what the bike shop did when i send my bike for repair due to the coolant leaking.

 

 

I also read something posted by Fazli at the starting few pages of this thread.

 

 

 

Is it possible that it is caused by current leak?

Because i also change my circuit board before.

maybe current is leaking inside?

 

Thanks :)

 

Do not compare..his is a Vtec and does not applied to non-vtec version. Non Vtec do not have what they have in thier meter and that's speed sensor.

 

Since you just gott he leakage problem supposing solved by the bike shop..I suggest u go back to them and tell them u having this problem after what they had done. My advise is that you DON'T BRING IT TO ANY OTHER SHOP, YOUSELF OR ANYONE DO ANYTHING TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM!..otherwise, they will blame it that u meddle with it. Don't waste time..the sooner you go back to them the better. From what I see..your engine is loosing compression at high rpm or it could be electrical wiring problem of the carb sensor (the black thing hanging on the side of the right hand side carb).

 

Btw..what do you mean by..." possible that 1 of my spark plug was removed?"...do u mean to say u are running on three plugs only?..I'm confused.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Do not compare..his is a Vtec and does not applied to non-vtec version. Non Vtec do not have what they have in thier meter and that's speed sensor.

 

I quoted that phrase from this thread. How come he is talking about Vtec in Non Vtec thread?

That post was from year 2006. Maybe during that time he is still riding a non Vtec?

 

 

 

Since you just gott he leakage problem supposing solved by the bike shop..I suggest u go back to them and tell them u having this problem after what they had done. My advise is that you DON'T BRING IT TO ANY OTHER SHOP, YOUSELF OR ANYONE DO ANYTHING TO SOLVE THE PROBLEM!..otherwise, they will blame it that u meddle with it. Don't waste time..the sooner you go back to them the better. From what I see..your engine is loosing compression at high rpm or it could be electrical wiring problem of the carb sensor (the black thing hanging on the side of the right hand side carb).

 

Actually i am really afraid to go back that bike shop. Firstly that is the shop that sell me my this bike, with so many problem. I only went back to them because my bike is so called "under warranty". And i suspect they never do anything to my bike to solve the leaking. After i park my bike at the bike shop, the boss told me to collect it 4 hours later. When i came back for the bike. He told me everything is fixed. Just have to pay for the new coolant. I ask him what did he do to fix my bike, he refused to tell me. I open up my side panel. The coolant inside looks exactly the same as what u added for me. I ask him what type of coolant he added for me. He also refused to tell me. Then he charged me $30 for the coolant.

Fyi, there is new stain at the side of my engine block(after they clean it for me), so i think the coolant is still leaking. Need more time to monitor the coolant level.

 

How can i trust this bike shop to repair my bike again?

Is it possible that the bike shop removed 1 my spark plug(the one that has coolant leaking in it) so that i wont feel the jerkiness?

I'm afraid that the bike shop will just do something to cover up the symptoms of the problem instead of fixing it.

 

Thank you for the help ah pek :)

Posted
should have watch them do the job bro... never walk away frm ur bike not knowing what they do unless its a trusted mech or shop

 

Yeah. Learn it the hard way.

Btw do you rmb me?

We meet once at pureice's place to wash phantom(my previous bike)

Posted
You have to be more specific than that..EXACLTY leaking from where? If have to change radiator..its less than half of what the shop qouted u.

 

Hey, Thanks William for solving my coolant leak problem! In case u have forgotten, I'm the one riding the red Ver S =)

When I feel sad, I stop being sad and be awesome instead. True story. Hehe :thumb:

Posted

seems quiet these few days, btw guys i was qouted $105 for a change of cone bearing or stem bearing which ever u call it.. expensive or normal? coz i tot of buying from fjt and fixed it in jb.. cone bearing price $50

Posted

how to test you coolant fan is working or not. i leave it running after reaching car park from work, and its not running. wat will happen if coolant overheat?

Posted
how to test you coolant fan is working or not. i leave it running after reaching car park from work, and its not running. wat will happen if coolant overheat?

 

I also wanna know.. Anyone?

"Bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory"...

Posted
how to test you coolant fan is working or not. i leave it running after reaching car park from work, and its not running. wat will happen if coolant overheat?

 

This is what I learnt from Ah Fook Motors at AMK industrial.. Once you start ur bike, adjust ur idling to 3K RPM and let it run.. The engine will heat up very fast.. When it is very hot, if the fan is working it will automatically switch on.. You can try this method if you want.. But I guess there are other methods though.. Wait for William aka Ah Pek, the GURU, to reply.. hehe

When I feel sad, I stop being sad and be awesome instead. True story. Hehe :thumb:

Posted
This is what I learnt from Ah Fook Motors at AMK industrial.. Once you start ur bike, adjust ur idling to 3K RPM and let it run.. The engine will heat up very fast.. When it is very hot, if the fan is working it will automatically switch on.. You can try this method if you want.. But I guess there are other methods though.. Wait for William aka Ah Pek, the GURU, to reply.. hehe

 

Yah Saje right..there is another method which is straight forward and no need to waste petrol. What u need to do is ground the radiator fan switch (the one sticking out on your left side of the radiator with a wire). To ground it..just take a long wire and connect it together with the wire connector on the radiator fan switch by pulling out the wire connector and joining the long wire to it. Now..just turn "on" your bike (no need to start engine) and touch the other end of the long wire to any part of the bike that is ground like the fork etc..voila!..your fan should run.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Ah pek,

Just now when i wanna start my bike, no cranking sound.

Only tiack tiack sound of the relay.

What's wrong arh?

 

After a few min i try start my bike then okay le...

 

 

Btw, how do i measure the my battery?

I open the seat, got 1 battery cover.

Remove 1 screw then can see my battery le right?

Use my multimeter set to DV then connect 1 end to the + and one end to the - can already right?

Posted
Ah pek,

Just now when i wanna start my bike, no cranking sound.

Only tiack tiack sound of the relay.

What's wrong arh?

 

After a few min i try start my bike then okay le...

 

 

Btw, how do i measure the my battery?

I open the seat, got 1 battery cover.

Remove 1 screw then can see my battery le right?

Use my multimeter set to DV then connect 1 end to the + and one end to the - can already right?

 

Yes..could be starter carbon brush problem or battery. Yes..that's the way to check battery.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Gd evening gentlemen, been an active lurker in here :cheeky:

 

 

Anyway, anyone can estimate the cost to repair my now stricken bike?

Details are as follows (might wanna take out some popcorn for this :popcorn::

 

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/6088/img10048.jpg

 

 

I was happily cruising along at 120 km/h when out of nowhere, the bike lost power, then it went "pssh". Rear wheel locked up, did an impromptu "gelek" for i'd say 200m and came to a relatively smokey stop (quite dramatic eh?)

 

Anyway, upon closer inspection, Lo and behold, Hole in the lower engine casing!

 

http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/9057/img10047.jpg

 

 

Can see the conrod dangling there eh? Pardon the blurry image.

 

So anyway, managed to flag down a passing low loader and up the bike goes...

 

http://img716.imageshack.us/img716/883/img10049.jpg

 

 

He's a very nice gentleman, Mr Kalai. Should you want his contact details, do give me a PM :)

 

Cost me rm570 + RM30 for tol to tow the bike from km 174.5 to my place here in Ampang, KL.

 

Anyway, upon arrival, peeled of that dangling conrod for a closer visual inspection...

 

http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/7535/img10055.jpg

 

 

Yeap, definitely broken. As for how this incident happened in the first place, it befuddles me too! Ah well, what's done is done.

 

 

So anyway, I wonder if anyone has a rough idea on how much the impending cost will be. Most probably i'll get a local shop here in KL to do the overhaul. Need a rough gauge so to speak as well honestly, if the overhaul will cost half the value of the bike when i bought it 3 years ago, kind of not cost effective eh?

 

Thanks for reading. Do hope for replies soon!:pity:

August 2006 - April 2008 = White Stallion V 1.0

April 2008 - Present = White Stallion V 2.0 :thumb:

http://photos-d.ak.facebook.com/photos-ak-snc1/v317/70/77/501577230/n501577230_1096539_3132.jpg

 

Saddlebags be cool!

Posted
Hello Bros! Anyone one of you know where to get cheap mainstand for my version S? Cheap?

 

i have looked high and low for this without success...let me know if you find one.

http://simonnunis.smugmug.com/photos/684724736_fuDoa-M-1.jpg
Posted
i have looked high and low for this without success...let me know if you find one.

 

Okay.. I wanted to buy the easy stand from the PMO thread but the TS said ver S cannot be used.. Want to use the stand primarily to lubricate my chains.. Not willing to install the ezyoiler as I feel it doesn't goes well with my design.. Scottoiler to ex.. Manual lubrication still the best for me.

When I feel sad, I stop being sad and be awesome instead. True story. Hehe :thumb:

Posted

Ah pek,

 

My bike mileage coming to 90000km. So far i only did normal servicing(like change EO, spark plug, coolant). I saw this "Top Service Packages for:

Honda CB400"

 

this packages includes:

- Replacement of timing chain

- Replacement of tensioner

- Replacement of tensioner chain guide A

- Replacement of tensioner chain guide B

- Replacement of block gasket

- Replacement of head gasket

- Replacement of all 16 valve seals

- Service all 8 inlet valves

- Service all 8 exhaust valves

- Replacement of all 16 shims

- Balancing of all shims

- Lubricate/ adjust drive chain

- Check cam cover oring + 8 x head mountings

and more....

 

question is do i need to invest my bike for this type of servicing?

(current my bike is specII and 8years old with mileage coming to 90000km)

Pls advise. Thanks.

It Is Not How FAST You Can Travel, But How FAST You Can Handle?

Posted
Okay.. I wanted to buy the easy stand from the PMO thread but the TS said ver S cannot be used.. Want to use the stand primarily to lubricate my chains.. Not willing to install the ezyoiler as I feel it doesn't goes well with my design.. Scottoiler to ex.. Manual lubrication still the best for me.

 

Yes..manual oiling is the best. afterall..it is only to keep the chain oily to protect from oxygen and water so it won't rust for "O" and "X" ring...save $s.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Ah pek,

 

My bike mileage coming to 90000km. So far i only did normal servicing(like change EO, spark plug, coolant). I saw this "Top Service Packages for:

Honda CB400"

 

this packages includes:

- Replacement of timing chain

- Replacement of tensioner

- Replacement of tensioner chain guide A

- Replacement of tensioner chain guide B

- Replacement of block gasket

- Replacement of head gasket

- Replacement of all 16 valve seals

- Service all 8 inlet valves

- Service all 8 exhaust valves

- Replacement of all 16 shims

- Balancing of all shims

- Lubricate/ adjust drive chain

- Check cam cover oring + 8 x head mountings

and more....

 

question is do i need to invest my bike for this type of servicing?

(current my bike is specII and 8years old with mileage coming to 90000km)

Pls advise. Thanks.

 

You never mentioned how much...sounds like you can almost buy another 2nd S4.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Ah pek,

 

My bike mileage coming to 90000km. So far i only did normal servicing(like change EO, spark plug, coolant). I saw this "Top Service Packages for:

Honda CB400"

 

this packages includes:

- Replacement of timing chain

- Replacement of tensioner

- Replacement of tensioner chain guide A

- Replacement of tensioner chain guide B

- Replacement of block gasket

- Replacement of head gasket

- Replacement of all 16 valve seals

- Service all 8 inlet valves

- Service all 8 exhaust valves

- Replacement of all 16 shims

- Balancing of all shims

- Lubricate/ adjust drive chain

- Check cam cover oring + 8 x head mountings

and more....

 

question is do i need to invest my bike for this type of servicing?

(current my bike is specII and 8years old with mileage coming to 90000km)

Pls advise. Thanks.

 

1st question to ask yourself

 

Is your bike having any problem?

 

my spec II same age and mileage as you . Got no problem and running fine, only sound from shim and clutch plate. That 2 thing very common for cb400 .

Posted
Okay.. I wanted to buy the easy stand from the PMO thread but the TS said ver S cannot be used.. Want to use the stand primarily to lubricate my chains.. Not willing to install the ezyoiler as I feel it doesn't goes well with my design.. Scottoiler to ex.. Manual lubrication still the best for me.

 

Get those jack that bike shops are using?

But i don't know how much or where to get.

lol. haha...

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