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Posted

I did it on my ex ver s. Bought with exchange my mod pipe to a stock spec3 pipe since he's selling his bike to shop. Vtec pipe can fit to a ver s but ver s fit to vtec need to add brackets.

 

Sent from my MB511 using Tapatalk

Past to present rides

 

Honda nsr sp 150 pro arm

Honda super4 ver s - yamaha rxz 135

Honda cbr 600 rr

Suzuki hayabusa 1300 - yamaha cygnus 125 - yamaha lc135 spark

Aprilia sr max 300 I.e

 

http://p1.bikepics.com/2013/10/22/bikepics-2608839-full.jpg

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Posted

had anyone used bmw grips on their version S before? the looks of my newly installed cheapo rizoma lookalike grips is so ugly...uneven cuts at the ends and there's huge gap between the grip n the balancer and between the throttle grip n switches as well..

 

wat grips are u guys using on ur version S? pls do share....:(

'97 CB400 F3V (NC31) :cool:

Posted
had anyone used bmw grips on their version S before? the looks of my newly installed cheapo rizoma lookalike grips is so ugly...uneven cuts at the ends and there's huge gap between the grip n the balancer and between the throttle grip n switches as well..

 

wat grips are u guys using on ur version S? pls do share....:(

 

U can get it from "Performance Motor" (BMW Agent) along at Bukit Timah road. Use to be $20..now slightly more I think bekuz too many S4 rider popularised it...ha....x3!

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Rizoma grips looks great but not good for the hand.. Bmw grips are far way better..

 

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Posted
Why he recommend?...didn't u asked him? My advise?...stay with the original...I skipped the details..as there are other preferred options to make ur bike perform better without spending that much..less the looks of a Yoshi of course.

 

Thanks again for your advice. This vs is my first 2A bike so not familiar with lots of things. Luckily there's SBF to answers my queries. Care to share tips on making my bike perform better. Thanks in advance. Cheers

Posted
Thanks again for your advice. This vs is my first 2A bike so not familiar with lots of things. Luckily there's SBF to answers my queries. Care to share tips on making my bike perform better. Thanks in advance. Cheers

 

For performance..as far as possible..do not deviate from what's stock and standard. Just get the right eo for ur ride..right meaning, correct vicosity for ur age of bike and any enhanve that can make the oil run cooler. Grounding when done right with provide better electrical load..especially spark plugs sparking for good combustion thus regain ur lost horsepower and last but not least..take care of the cooling system..never use tap water to mixed..use only distilled or ionised water to premix with concentrated coolant.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

ah pek, recently my coolant level ran low and so i asked the shop to top up the coolant during my EO change. its some green colour no-brand coolant. I believe coolant can dry off given enough time and rides. However my friend seem to disagree. I checked my coolant hose and visually it looks good, my radiator is hot to the touch after my ride (which means its working) and fins still look good. I have no idea when was the last time the previous Ver S owner did any servicing on the cooling system but reservoir seems to have rust in it (rust colour stuff when looking into the reservoir).

 

Is it ok to just flush the sytem first and dont change the hose? Hose is like 180 bucks and i dont wanna unnecessary change things when i dont need too. I was thinking of just flushing and buying a bottle of coolant and top it up every now and then. Does coolant brand really matter or are those really gimmicks? LOL never own a water cooling system engine before so threading unknown water for abit.

Posted

ah pek, recently my coolant level ran low and so i asked the shop to top up the coolant during my EO change. its some green colour no-brand coolant. I believe coolant can dry off given enough time and rides. However my friend seem to disagree. I checked my coolant hose and visually it looks good, my radiator is hot to the touch after my ride (which means its working) and fins still look good. I have no idea when was the last time the previous Ver S owner did any servicing on the cooling system but reservoir seems to have rust in it (rust colour stuff when looking into the reservoir).

 

Is it ok to just flush the sytem first and dont change the hose? Hose is like 180 bucks and i dont wanna unnecessary change things when i dont need too. I was thinking of just flushing and buying a bottle of coolant and top it up every now and then. Does coolant brand really matter or are those really gimmicks? LOL never own a water cooling system engine before so threading unknown water for abit.

Posted
ah pek, recently my coolant level ran low and so i asked the shop to top up the coolant during my EO change. its some green colour no-brand coolant. I believe coolant can dry off given enough time and rides. However my friend seem to disagree. I checked my coolant hose and visually it looks good, my radiator is hot to the touch after my ride (which means its working) and fins still look good. I have no idea when was the last time the previous Ver S owner did any servicing on the cooling system but reservoir seems to have rust in it (rust colour stuff when looking into the reservoir).

 

Is it ok to just flush the sytem first and dont change the hose? Hose is like 180 bucks and i dont wanna unnecessary change things when i dont need too. I was thinking of just flushing and buying a bottle of coolant and top it up every now and then. Does coolant brand really matter or are those really gimmicks? LOL never own a water cooling system engine before so threading unknown water for abit.

 

Different coolant does makes the difference. I won't comment on other brands but I'm using concentrated coolant and mixs (ionize or distilled water) only when to be used. Won't state the brand here as I'm don't want to sound like promoting it. When u hve "Milo" (rust dust) colour..it means that where radiator is rusting and its not good. Yes..u can do what u mentioned but if there is rust in ur system..u have to check ur reserve tank return tubing and remove as much rust as u can from the main hose that may already be clogged with rust. Rusts comes from tap water being use in ur coolant or coolant taht does not has anti-rusting or coolant pump lube agent in them. Your coolant pump impeller blades can also break if its been rusting for a long while thus circulation of hot coolant is inefficient. As long as the host is not puncture..u can always use it but make sure to refresh if the right coolant for further protection against rust.

 

For a piece of mind and all things put right..I suggest u drained all ur coolant, wash the reserve tank, scrape of rust in affected hoses and top up with coolant that has anti-rust and lube agent..don't have to borther for the next 2-3 years..just do topping up...and yes..tell ur friend that coolant does evaporate thru uses..its just a question of the "rate" it does so. Tell him to heat up a cup of water and see if the content last forever...sighhh.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

hi, im new to s4. im intending on buying one.. is vtec really useful? will i be losing out a lot if i get a verR or S? how about power cut? i see that quite often around, but no idea what it does.

Posted
Different coolant does makes the difference. I won't comment on other brands but I'm using concentrated coolant and mixs (ionize or distilled water) only when to be used. Won't state the brand here as I'm don't want to sound like promoting it. When u hve "Milo" (rust dust) colour..it means that where radiator is rusting and its not good. Yes..u can do what u mentioned but if there is rust in ur system..u have to check ur reserve tank return tubing and remove as much rust as u can from the main hose that may already be clogged with rust. Rusts comes from tap water being use in ur coolant or coolant taht does not has anti-rusting or coolant pump lube agent in them. Your coolant pump impeller blades can also break if its been rusting for a long while thus circulation of hot coolant is inefficient. As long as the host is not puncture..u can always use it but make sure to refresh if the right coolant for further protection against rust.

 

For a piece of mind and all things put right..I suggest u drained all ur coolant, wash the reserve tank, scrape of rust in affected hoses and top up with coolant that has anti-rust and lube agent..don't have to borther for the next 2-3 years..just do topping up...and yes..tell ur friend that coolant does evaporate thru uses..its just a question of the "rate" it does so. Tell him to heat up a cup of water and see if the content last forever...sighhh.

 

 

 

I have been using the coolant for more than 2 years and counting and the coolant is still the same color, only need to top up. Up for ah pek coolant.

Posted

@ Ah Pek. Hi Ah Pek, 2 thumbs up for your EO change yesterday, engine response is the smoothest I have ever experienced. :)

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m206/blade_trinity21/EditedRevo2.jpg
Posted
@ Ah Pek. Hi Ah Pek, 2 thumbs up for your EO change yesterday, engine response is the smoothest I have ever experienced. :)

 

Enjoy ur ride bro..and stay safe :0)

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
I have been using the coolant for more than 2 years and counting and the coolant is still the same color, only need to top up. Up for ah pek coolant.

 

Thanks Sihan0110..haven't seen u for quite awhile :0)

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
Different coolant does makes the difference. I won't comment on other brands but I'm using concentrated coolant and mixs (ionize or distilled water) only when to be used. Won't state the brand here as I'm don't want to sound like promoting it. When u hve "Milo" (rust dust) colour..it means that where radiator is rusting and its not good. Yes..u can do what u mentioned but if there is rust in ur system..u have to check ur reserve tank return tubing and remove as much rust as u can from the main hose that may already be clogged with rust. Rusts comes from tap water being use in ur coolant or coolant taht does not has anti-rusting or coolant pump lube agent in them. Your coolant pump impeller blades can also break if its been rusting for a long while thus circulation of hot coolant is inefficient. As long as the host is not puncture..u can always use it but make sure to refresh if the right coolant for further protection against rust.

 

For a piece of mind and all things put right..I suggest u drained all ur coolant, wash the reserve tank, scrape of rust in affected hoses and top up with coolant that has anti-rust and lube agent..don't have to borther for the next 2-3 years..just do topping up...and yes..tell ur friend that coolant does evaporate thru uses..its just a question of the "rate" it does so. Tell him to heat up a cup of water and see if the content last forever...sighhh.

 

had a check on my reservoir when it was cold just now. so far my green coolant has no rust in it but yeah reservoir has brown stuff on the wall. so i can safely assume my system is still ok with rust but think will just do a proper flush soon enough. do like what you said, clean all the rust up nice and proper.

 

also another qn, i suspect the OEM coolant the shop use is from castrol cos i believe theirs is green. is it ok to to mix/ top up with other coolant? shop only top up till minimum level previously, dont really feel right till its at the max level :)

Posted
had a check on my reservoir when it was cold just now. so far my green coolant has no rust in it but yeah reservoir has brown stuff on the wall. so i can safely assume my system is still ok with rust but think will just do a proper flush soon enough. do like what you said, clean all the rust up nice and proper.

 

also another qn, i suspect the OEM coolant the shop use is from castrol cos i believe theirs is green. is it ok to to mix/ top up with other coolant? shop only top up till minimum level previously, dont really feel right till its at the max level :)

 

I believe Castrol don't provide their coolant in this manner..new Castrol coolant is "translucent green" not even green like RAD or DIAX green. Real coolant is colourles. Different company uses diffent colour to signature their very own.

 

Yeap...it's ok to mix.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

need major help wit my version S...ytd after my bike wash the bike now give me problem...firstly notice that my engine brake seems weirdly stronger than before...speeding at gear 6 then close throttle suddenly the bike is like being slowed down forcefully with vibration i didnt notice tis before my bike wash...and tis happens to all gears as well...and to make it worse jz now for no reason my bike like no power like tat...struglling to hit rpm5 must force throttle then the bike slowly gain power even then like asthma like tat...haiz

 

check coolant still above low lvl

carb cleaning, spark plug, eo, air filter all done last dec

 

which bikeshop open tomorrow (sunday)? :weep:

'97 CB400 F3V (NC31) :cool:

Posted

HI IM LOOKING FOR STOCK SUPER 4 signal light or any non led signal lights??. Anyone can sell me cheap cheap?? Urgent. NEED GO 4 inspection.. Rent oso can. Sms 82470605

Posted
I believe Castrol don't provide their coolant in this manner..new Castrol coolant is "translucent green" not even green like RAD or DIAX green. Real coolant is colourles. Different company uses diffent colour to signature their very own.

 

Yeap...it's ok to mix.

 

thanks Ah Pek :) I managed to buy Diax from Esso. Though I believe its a concentrated 500 ml bottle. Will have to get distilled water and get it top up. thank you!

Posted (edited)
Try lifting the front tyre and rotate it? Or try pushingthe bike from stationary and see if it feels heavy.

Not strong enuf to lift the front on my own but the bike does indeed feel heavy when i push frm stationary...any idea why?

 

Also where to adjust the idling anyway...morning my bike idling kinda low then usual...

Edited by exwhyzee

'97 CB400 F3V (NC31) :cool:

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