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Posted

Just wondering anyone know what the sound means. Havent gone to mechanic yet.

Sound appears when i release throttle when in gears 2-3-4. 1-5-6 no sound....

 

Any ideas on what might be the problem?

Just surfaced after recent service, (full service + change chain+sprocket)

 

thanks much! =)

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Posted

it should just be backfiring... and should not be related to the gears. maybe after your servicing your carburetor is tuned a little richer, causing the backfiring. well you can adjust the air-fuel ratio to be a little leaner, although it is perfectly fine for your phantom to back fire a little every now and then... :thirsty:

http://photos.friendster.com/photos/78/20/5760287/2_900727903l.jpg
Posted

i had a similar backfiring problem awhile back. but mine was everytime i closed throttle.

 

and i actually changed the air suction thing at planet. cost ard $60 and the problem was solved.

Got bike must ride!

 

SYM Maxsym 400i - 09/11/12 to current

Phantom TA200 - 07/08/09 to 09/11/12

Posted
i had a similar backfiring problem awhile back. but mine was everytime i closed throttle.

 

and i actually changed the air suction thing at planet. cost ard $60 and the problem was solved.

 

I did the same too.

Dragstar 400 classic & Zx6r

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi guys, is this overkill to maintain a phantom? (Grab from wikipedia)

Engine oil ~ 10W40 grade or Higher, 1 L per 2,000 km

 

Spark plug ~ Change per 5,000 km

 

Air filter ~ Clean per 5,000 km. Change per 10,000 km

 

Brake Fluid ~ Change per 10,000 km. Top up if low level.

 

Cleaning the carburetor is discouraged unless you are a very competent mechanic.

Tune and clean only if problem arises. Under the fuel switch is a small bowl which can be cleaned to remove water or debris.

 

Brake Pads ~ Honda Original

 

Chain ~ DID

Lubricate per 500 km (Scottoiler [1], Maxima Chain Spray or used engine oil)

Change when it can no longer be tightened

 

Sprockets ~ Usually change together with chain

 

Tyres ~ Metzelers Lazertec Front, ME77 Back

When worn out or more than 5 years from manufactured date

When changing tyres, tell the mechanic to check wheel bearings as well

 

Full Servicing ~ per 5,000 km

Posted

need help...jus renew coe for a TA200...dn know if long time never ride liao or what...TA200 when travelling at 100 and above the front fork can sense vibration leh,and cut corners and turning must really really slow down....scare scare leh

 

is the vibration normal...smemore the bike good condition and bike from boon siew

 

where can i get damper for TA200 so as to help in cornering and turning???

 

[email protected]

Posted
need help...jus renew coe for a TA200...dn know if long time never ride liao or what...TA200 when travelling at 100 and above the front fork can sense vibration leh,and cut corners and turning must really really slow down....scare scare leh

 

is the vibration normal...smemore the bike good condition and bike from boon siew

 

where can i get damper for TA200 so as to help in cornering and turning???

 

[email protected]

 

ermm.... it could your tyre, front wheel bearing, fork oil lvl (check if seals crack)....front will become shaky when either side oil lvl is low.

 

imo, this not racing bike, no point install stabliser, just regularly check seal condition and oil lvl.

 

hope it helps

Posted
need help...jus renew coe for a TA200...dn know if long time never ride liao or what...TA200 when travelling at 100 and above the front fork can sense vibration leh,and cut corners and turning must really really slow down....scare scare leh

 

is the vibration normal...smemore the bike good condition and bike from boon siew

 

where can i get damper for TA200 so as to help in cornering and turning???

 

[email protected]

 

Not forgeting your steering cone.. Might need replacement..

JOSHUA

class2B -26/2/09

class 2A -27/7/10

class 3 - 6/1/11

class 2 - 30/8/12

 

http://i920.photobucket.com/albums/ad44/jtzx/Image0020_JROT42b4_edited.gif?t=1246004022

Posted
Not forgeting your steering cone.. Might need replacement..

 

And also check fork hydraulic fluid. May be uneven.

Suzuki RG125 Gamma, Suzuki GN125, Suzuki GSX400FW, Suzuki GSXR 400'J', Honda CBX400F, Kawasaki EN400,Suzuki Intruder 750, Yamaha FZX750 Baby VMAX, Daihatsu Charade, Fiat X19 Bertone, Mitsubishi Lancer, Yamaha RXS 115, Honda TA200

Posted
Hi guys, is this overkill to maintain a phantom? (Grab from wikipedia)

Engine oil ~ 10W40 grade or Higher, 1 L per 2,000 km

 

Spark plug ~ Change per 5,000 km

 

Air filter ~ Clean per 5,000 km. Change per 10,000 km

 

Brake Fluid ~ Change per 10,000 km. Top up if low level.

 

Cleaning the carburetor is discouraged unless you are a very competent mechanic.

Tune and clean only if problem arises. Under the fuel switch is a small bowl which can be cleaned to remove water or debris.

 

Brake Pads ~ Honda Original

 

Chain ~ DID

Lubricate per 500 km (Scottoiler [1], Maxima Chain Spray or used engine oil)

Change when it can no longer be tightened

 

Sprockets ~ Usually change together with chain

 

Tyres ~ Metzelers Lazertec Front, ME77 Back

When worn out or more than 5 years from manufactured date

When changing tyres, tell the mechanic to check wheel bearings as well

 

Full Servicing ~ per 5,000 km

 

Not overkill. Just to maintain your bike in tip top condition.

Suzuki RG125 Gamma, Suzuki GN125, Suzuki GSX400FW, Suzuki GSXR 400'J', Honda CBX400F, Kawasaki EN400,Suzuki Intruder 750, Yamaha FZX750 Baby VMAX, Daihatsu Charade, Fiat X19 Bertone, Mitsubishi Lancer, Yamaha RXS 115, Honda TA200

Posted
Hi guys, is this overkill to maintain a phantom? (Grab from wikipedia)

Engine oil ~ 10W40 grade or Higher, 1 L per 2,000 km Acceptable

 

Spark plug ~ Change per 5,000 km Overkill

 

Air filter ~ Clean per 5,000 km. Change per 10,000 km Overkill

 

Brake Fluid ~ Change per 10,000 km. Top up if low level. Overkill

 

Cleaning the carburetor is discouraged unless you are a very competent mechanic.

Tune and clean only if problem arises. Under the fuel switch is a small bowl which can be cleaned to remove water or debris.

 

Brake Pads ~ Honda Original

 

Chain ~ DID

Lubricate per 500 km (Scottoiler [1], Maxima Chain Spray or used engine oil)

Change when it can no longer be tightened Acceptable

 

Sprockets ~ Usually change together with chain Acceptable

 

Tyres ~ Metzelers Lazertec Front, ME77 Back

When worn out or more than 5 years from manufactured date

When changing tyres, tell the mechanic to check wheel bearings as well

 

Acceptable

 

Full Servicing ~ per 5,000 km

Overkill

 

Spark plug i advise 50000-80000km then change unless you see your plug center electrode or the conductor has been seriously worn out... u may think its 5 dollars a pop, so maybe u wont think anything of it, but spark plugs are 1 of the toughest component to be featured inside the combustion chamber...

 

Air filter 30000km then change, although its cheap but then again your overdoing it by change every 10000km...

 

brake fluid no need bleed and bleed and bleed, i used my ta for 1.8 years i nv touched the brake fluid at all...if its spongy then u bleed, if not dont waste the money again as usual...

 

the rest are all ok imo, anyway i rode my ta200 over 150000km so this is my exp, no power loss nothing still the same....

 

X9 best? o.O

 

NSHW exit to Pasir Gudang highway that right sweeping bend, i clocked over 120kmh 2 up, no wobble nothing, solidly planted, maybe u can ask the FJR and DynaGlide that was chasing behind me with difficulty and u know the ans....lol

 

need help...jus renew coe for a TA200...dn know if long time never ride liao or what...TA200 when travelling at 100 and above the front fork can sense vibration leh,and cut corners and turning must really really slow down....scare scare leh

 

is the vibration normal...smemore the bike good condition and bike from boon siew

 

where can i get damper for TA200 so as to help in cornering and turning???

 

[email protected]

 

if your saying your fork is very soft, chances are the fork seal and the fork oil are shot to pieces, anyway to judge whether your fork is gone, tie a cable tie on either 1 fork stanchion (the very shiny one) and see how much does your fork compresses, if the cable tie is less than 30mm to the triple clamp that means its gone...

 

anyway phantom dont need a steering damper to corner, because of its steering rake angle, u'd be countersteering rather radically to enter the corner, and the tolerance level is very wide compared to other rather front assembly that is more sports handling, as the headshake effect is very visible...

 

Not overkill. Just to maintain your bike in tip top condition.

 

i'd concur with your statement, but because TA200 is a very rugged design bike, the abuse it takes as a daily affair compared to a full blown motogp bikes, the reason is this, all street legal bikes or cars are made to last, whereas a race car or bike, has to be stripped down after every race for overhauling, as their engine are at their peaked efficiency, that is why ppl mod stock cars or bikes to go faster, because they are design to be bloody inefficient so that they can last a lifetime w/o emptying your assets...

Go as far as you can see; when you get there, you'll be able to see farther.

J. P. Morgan

Posted
Overkill

 

Spark plug i advise 50000-80000km then change unless you see your plug center electrode or the conductor has been seriously worn out... u may think its 5 dollars a pop, so maybe u wont think anything of it, but spark plugs are 1 of the toughest component to be featured inside the combustion chamber...

 

i just realized that i havent change spark plug for 40,000km.... so still can tahan another year..

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/th_twins.jpg
Posted

so u r saying my fork seal n fork oil is gone...but the seal looks but naked eyes ok leh...and oil not leaking also,if leaking can tell one...maybe i have not been riding for quite some time...but the IRC tyres sure uneven...never mind...use till botak first. Ya...handshake effect ....is what i mean....think bopian lah....2B

Posted
ermm.... it could your tyre, front wheel bearing, fork oil lvl (check if seals crack)....front will become shaky when either side oil lvl is low.

 

imo, this not racing bike, no point install stabliser, just regularly check seal condition and oil lvl.

 

hope it helps

 

from what u mentioned....more probably my IRC tyres cause from the naked eyes already looks uneven...confirm my fork seal not leaking and condition good....never mind...use till botak first.

Posted
Suddenly felt my ear itchy sia.....

 

u kena pager hiang si boh....how come can anyhow come in chap jik kar one....more and more pai kia like the devil...jia lat....

 

i think the devil has already brainwashed soundless, so Ben u are next better watch out....lol

 

Next the devil will come in here and start posting...

 

so u r saying my fork seal n fork oil is gone...but the seal looks but naked eyes ok leh...and oil not leaking also,if leaking can tell one...maybe i have not been riding for quite some time...but the IRC tyres sure uneven...never mind...use till botak first. Ya...handshake effect ....is what i mean....think bopian lah....2B

 

wat i'd advice is check the air pressure first, once ok ride, if problem persist, check will bearing by turning the wheel and hear for tell tale sound of sound coming from bearing, disc and brake pad rubbing nvm...

 

if not check your steering cone bearing by rocking the bike back and forth with front brake engaged, if the handlebar is locked tightly with no clicking sound, it means the cone bearing is ok...

 

next checking the front fork oil level by putting a stick in thru the suspension top cap, bu do rmb, open one cap at a time to check, if not u open both the bike will juz sink down cuz there is nothing to suppress the fork from diving down...both fork oil level should be the same amt, out by abit 10mm is ok...

 

next if the fork oil u check is grey in color and is smelly, time to replace the fork oil...as for tire, check to see when was the manufacturing date, if its over by more than five years than its time to replace them, cuz the rubber has harden up till its not flexing much.. To check for tire date of Birth check the 4 digits that are stamped on the sidewall, your no should be like this, 1108 or 5109---1st 2 digits refer to the week of the year, hence the no. would not be more than 52, next the last 2 digits refer to the year ie 2008 is 08, 2009 is 09 so on so forth....

 

last but not least, if the bike has been sitting at the carpark for too long esp open air carparks, chances of the fork seal gone is very high due to the sunlight, rain, sunlight, and rain, hence the rubber has harden up, and water has start to slowly seep in...

 

Dear friends, confirm need to sell my Shadow by end May 2011.

Help spread the word.

 

'97 Shadow 400

COE till 2017

Pearl white with red trim

Puig windscreen, rear box, saddle bags & Hella horns

 

Asking $4200 firm,

Cash deal only.

 

Paging for VIDAK!!!

 

My Phantom also go 400km no need to top up. :cheeky:

 

i whack you ah...your one is 20L tank leh....some more is positive drive, X9 only 12L and the final drive is thru belt, and it will nv attain 90% output efficiency at all de lor, how to compare.... :giddy:

Go as far as you can see; when you get there, you'll be able to see farther.

J. P. Morgan

Posted

@hamsterwhale

 

That's all about it to maintain a phantom?

 

Engine oil ~ 10W40 grade or Higher, 1 L per 2,000 km Acceptable

 

Spark plug ~ Change per 5,000 km Overkill

 

Air filter ~ Clean per 5,000 km. Change per 10,000 km Overkill

 

Brake Fluid ~ Change per 10,000 km. Top up if low level. Overkill

 

Cleaning the carburetor is discouraged unless you are a very competent mechanic.

Tune and clean only if problem arises. Under the fuel switch is a small bowl which can be cleaned to remove water or debris.

 

Brake Pads ~ Honda Original

 

Chain ~ DID

Lubricate per 500 km (Scottoiler [1], Maxima Chain Spray or used engine oil)

Change when it can no longer be tightened Acceptable

 

Sprockets ~ Usually change together with chain Acceptable

 

Tyres ~ Metzelers Lazertec Front, ME77 Back

When worn out or more than 5 years from manufactured date

When changing tyres, tell the mechanic to check wheel bearings as well

 

Acceptable

 

Full Servicing ~ per 5,000 km

Posted
@hamsterwhale

 

That's all about it to maintain a phantom?

 

Engine oil ~ 10W40 grade or Higher, 1 L per 2,000 km Acceptable

 

Spark plug ~ Change per 5,000 km Overkill

 

Air filter ~ Clean per 5,000 km. Change per 10,000 km Overkill

 

Brake Fluid ~ Change per 10,000 km. Top up if low level. Overkill

 

Cleaning the carburetor is discouraged unless you are a very competent mechanic.

Tune and clean only if problem arises. Under the fuel switch is a small bowl which can be cleaned to remove water or debris.

 

Brake Pads ~ Honda Original

 

Chain ~ DID

Lubricate per 500 km (Scottoiler [1], Maxima Chain Spray or used engine oil)

Change when it can no longer be tightened Acceptable

 

Sprockets ~ Usually change together with chain Acceptable

 

Tyres ~ Metzelers Lazertec Front, ME77 Back

When worn out or more than 5 years from manufactured date

When changing tyres, tell the mechanic to check wheel bearings as well

 

Acceptable

 

Full Servicing ~ per 5,000 km

 

Just found out that my tyres are original ones from 2002. Already 9 years old. Anyone can recommend a place which is reasonable?

Suzuki RG125 Gamma, Suzuki GN125, Suzuki GSX400FW, Suzuki GSXR 400'J', Honda CBX400F, Kawasaki EN400,Suzuki Intruder 750, Yamaha FZX750 Baby VMAX, Daihatsu Charade, Fiat X19 Bertone, Mitsubishi Lancer, Yamaha RXS 115, Honda TA200

Posted
Just found out that my tyres are original ones from 2002. Already 9 years old. Anyone can recommend a place which is reasonable?

 

juz head over to Bafang as i like to call it or Pl@n3t motors...the price will be market so no worries on being a carrot...

Go as far as you can see; when you get there, you'll be able to see farther.

J. P. Morgan

Posted
@hamsterwhale

 

That's all about it to maintain a phantom?

 

Engine oil ~ 10W40 grade or Higher, 1 L per 2,000 km Acceptable

 

Spark plug ~ Change per 5,000 km Overkill

 

Air filter ~ Clean per 5,000 km. Change per 10,000 km Overkill

 

Brake Fluid ~ Change per 10,000 km. Top up if low level. Overkill

 

Cleaning the carburetor is discouraged unless you are a very competent mechanic.

Tune and clean only if problem arises. Under the fuel switch is a small bowl which can be cleaned to remove water or debris.

 

Brake Pads ~ Honda Original

 

Chain ~ DID

Lubricate per 500 km (Scottoiler [1], Maxima Chain Spray or used engine oil)

Change when it can no longer be tightened Acceptable

 

Sprockets ~ Usually change together with chain Acceptable

 

Tyres ~ Metzelers Lazertec Front, ME77 Back

When worn out or more than 5 years from manufactured date

When changing tyres, tell the mechanic to check wheel bearings as well

 

Acceptable

 

Full Servicing ~ per 5,000 km

 

what more u need?

 

the rest of the wear and tear items i nv cover...too exhaustive....nv ending, so this are the basic items...

Go as far as you can see; when you get there, you'll be able to see farther.

J. P. Morgan

Posted

tks for all the advice fellow bikers for my TA200...as i renew coe for 10 years liao...must keep and use the bike..this weekend will be bring it to a bikeshop to check the entire front and see what the mechanic have to say...lucky TA200 easy to maintain and resolve the problems...if class 2 nightmare liao...i tend to believe is the tyres....but wait for them to open up the fork seals and check the fork oil 1st...and also the steering cone and whatever not they can check and resolve my front handshaking effect....cause sometimes a bit scary when travelling with all the cars around you.

 

since staying in the west...will be gg to those bike shop at Midview at Toh Guan there....dun think mechanic will find TA200 issues a headache...wish me luck and good days to all bikers here...

 

We live to ride.....1 of our motto

 

will update after mechanic's findings

Posted
what more u need?

 

the rest of the wear and tear items i nv cover...too exhaustive....nv ending, so this are the basic items...

 

It's good enough already :)

Posted

Hi all,

 

what do the restrictor caps in the exhaust look like and how easy are they to remove them yourself?

 

Does anyone have any hints/tips/photos?

 

thanks,

Rich

Posted

Phantoms exhaust baffle plates, silencer or restrictor plates should be the same as other bikes, if im not wrong with a torchlight shine thru one of the exhaust holes and look thru the hole being shined, if u can see a wall at the end of the hole, that is the silencer construction u are looking at...

 

to remove u need a long and strong pole(for use as a battering ram) that can fit into the exhaust hole and a hammer...put the pole in till it stops and use the hammer to whack it real hard till the wall plating comes off...and viola, u've derestrict your pipes and do the same to the other hole also lah...

 

But, one note of caution, after doing that, there is no way of reversing the operation, unless u either change a new pipe costing 600+ or u cut it open and weld it back...and also ur valve in your engine block will get damage faster than in stock condition, cuz the back pressure is actually doing its job of helping the exhaust valve open with less effort...maybe u wiki engine operation u'll understand more, but wat i can tell u is this, after opening the hole, the exhuast note...sucks big time, thats y afew went thru this option and actually changed back their pipes not long after...

 

Cheers!

Go as far as you can see; when you get there, you'll be able to see farther.

J. P. Morgan

Posted

Hi guys! need some help from you guys, recently i send my bike for mainteiance, and was told that my bike was leaking EO, cosh the carburetor and surrounding are stain with black sticky stuff, my mechanic help me wash it out and let it run idle to check where's e leak, but end of the day nth came out.

 

But today after riding for a short distance for work, i spotted some yellowish on my carburetor and wire. Is it possbile that the leaking problem is there which is the yellow stain stuck on my bike.

 

Please help!

Posted

ur engine gasket is leaking at the top and bottom block mating area, dont bother changing it unless its SPEWING out engine oil...

 

As for the yellow substance, could be something melted have a closer look and best smell it to know whether its petroleum or rubber based substance, from there on slowly trace

Go as far as you can see; when you get there, you'll be able to see farther.

J. P. Morgan

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