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Posted

hi guys, don't want to only come here and ask for help, so ill share some info for the community too.

 

As most of our bikes are pretty old, the shocks are probably gone. i did research and instead of refurbishing, which may not guarantee a long lasting shock (which some can consider, i asked bikelab and Teck Thye - price about 230-240.)

 

i got a pair of shocks from YSS (thailand brand) from chong aik @ 310 bucks, i chose them cos i heard their manufacturing and expertise has improved, and overseas ducati and triumph thruxton owners love YSS and get their higher end shocks. apparently they headhunted personnel from hyperpro and another suspension company.

 

however as i was on a budget i got their economic line. the model was the C302-T.

 

my review - it looks good and its preload adjustable. I can feel the shocks working and its pretty good for single riding.

 

however with my pillion it can be slightly harsh, even when i have dialed in the preload properly at 30mm (taking into account added passenger weight), lessing it by 5mm to 35 proved better, but i think the problem lies with the damping, i won't say its bad, but average. the compression is a tad bit too strong and the rebound seems a little too weak.

 

another gripe is that the preload is screw thread based, not the showa clicks, thus its harder to equalize the two shocks. but you can tune it more precisely

 

But overly im pleased with the purchase, it costs even less than half the price of a showa pair i think 700+?. but i dare say its only slightly poorer in performance than a showa shock.

 

recommended for a budget replacement, or try thier better shocks ( but i think gotta order from thailand )

 

ohlins 1k+

bitubo 800+

showa 700+

kayaba 600+

 

YSS 300+

gazi 200+

 

just a rough guide. but i heard bad things about gazi from overseas forums. so i think YSS is a better choice if you are deciding btw the two.

"I don't trust any bike I can't see through" - jay leno

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Posted

Also when i serviced my bike @ planet motors, my mech helped me pull the thermostat from the bike. his reasoning is that it helps the bike keep warm and easier to start in cool climate countries. irrelevant for hot singapore.

 

and true enough the bike engine became cooler, i could still touch the block (gingerly though) after some riding . quite an obvious drop in heat.

 

however it seems to be a debated subject on overseas forums. some say taking the thermostat out increases heat as coolant passes through the radiator too fast to cool, another school says its too cold and the engine cant warm up properly.

 

however i think in our stop and go traffic in singapore + hot climate , its a worthwhile consideration.

 

i was bought over when i saw a overseas forumner (cant find the link) who claims his 2 bikes without a thermostat had a noticable drop in heat during long track sessions. he had some pretty specific figures.

 

 

perhaps do some research and decide if this mod is for you.

"I don't trust any bike I can't see through" - jay leno

Posted

hi people... would like to know, while riding in lower gear but at fast speed, when closed throttle there will be a "pop" x2 sound. it is because to much petrol going in carb?

 

& i have a valve cleaner and seldom ride my bike, it is ok to pour in the valve clearner? and also do i need to travel fast as compare to the vitec? btw i'm riding ver S

 

thx

Posted
hi people... would like to know, while riding in lower gear but at fast speed, when closed throttle there will be a "pop" x2 sound. it is because to much petrol going in carb?

 

& i have a valve cleaner and seldom ride my bike, it is ok to pour in the valve clearner? and also do i need to travel fast as compare to the vitec? btw i'm riding ver S

 

thx

 

Its ok if you can live with it...doesn't affect performance or causes damage in future lah. It has something to do with your end can considering if its not a stock one. Other than that..it could be electrical load problem due to old ageing wirings. Valve cleaner is always good but use it with recommended dosage ratio.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
hello! wat is the recommended viscosity of engine oil for super 4? is it ok if i use car e.o? thinking of using the spc sae 15w40 e.o...

 

I have nv tried car eo before.. But ter hav been forumers who have tried and everyting looks fine

2005 aug - 2006 oct - Wave 125s FV4517M

2006 nov - 2007 jan - Super 4 Version s FP7529R

2007 jan - 2007 sept -spark 135 FBA3986G

2007 sep - 2010 apr - Honda XR400Sm FQ2901B

- Yamaha FZ150I

2010 apr - ????????? -Honda CB400 Spec I.III

-Yamaha FZ150I

Posted
Carbs component may be like u suggested but unlikely as wear and tear should be 'equally' worn. I suspect that your either left or right pair of carbs are either too lean or too rich. The best way is to take of the plugs and check for plug electrodes coloration...the darker blacker ones will be too rich..while the brownish white may be too lean. This is air/fuel tunning not carbs sync or know as balancing, its dufferent.

 

However..carbs balancing may caused this too..I understand u just had it synchronised but u can't be sure that it was done properly. For a start, suggest you check the spark plug condition.

 

Hi Ah Pek, can recommend anyone or shops that can do the air/fuel tuning? Thanks.

When I feel sad, I stop being sad and be awesome instead. True story. Hehe :thumb:

Posted
Hi Ah Pek, can recommend anyone or shops that can do the air/fuel tuning? Thanks.

 

No idea mannn!..if it had to be good..have to spend $$$s whith mototiam that uses DYNO machine. What I heard about those tuned by voltage or exhaust pules are all too good to be true.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

ah pek can recommend any shops that do dent removal on fuel tank? about the size of thumb and how much is it going to cost?

 

the only link i can find

yeo kee hin:

blk2 kallang ave

industrial center

01-148

Ph: 62935346

 

and hlc

*repair fuel tank dent will be price from $40.00 - $120.00.

Regards,

kifakw

 

Understeer is when you hit the wall with the front of the car

and oversteer is when you hit the wall with the rear of the car.

Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall,

torque is how far you take the wall with you.

Posted
ah pek can recommend any shops that do dent removal on fuel tank? about the size of thumb and how much is it going to cost?

 

the only link i can find

yeo kee hin:

blk2 kallang ave

industrial center

01-148

Ph: 62935346

 

and hlc

*repair fuel tank dent will be price from $40.00 - $120.00.

 

Heh bro..sorry mannn!..don't have suc lobang leh. Since its a "Thumb" size only..I remember here in other threads that they say tehre is the "cup sucking" method. A proper job actually required some cutting for access to paneling beating and a repair job.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hi All,

 

Firstly, I would like to wish all the pple in this forum, Happy Chinese New Year and happy holidays for non-Chinese riders.

 

I am a noob in S4 and just got myself a version R. I found that my throttle is quite hard when I tried to accelerate.

 

Is it due to the throttle cables? The mech(which I bought the bike from) claimed that he has changed it already before I took over.

 

Please advise..

WHEN YOU ARE RIDING, YOU ARE IN THE PICTURE UNLIKE DRIVING WHEREBY YOU CAN ONLY SEE PICTURE.o_O

Posted
Hi All,

 

Firstly, I would like to wish all the pple in this forum, Happy Chinese New Year and happy holidays for non-Chinese riders.

 

I am a noob in S4 and just got myself a version R. I found that my throttle is quite hard when I tried to accelerate.

 

Is it due to the throttle cables? The mech(which I bought the bike from) claimed that he has changed it already before I took over.

 

Please advise..

 

 

Chack ur handle grip...iszit too long and touching your balancer at the end.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Thanks for your prompt reply ah pek...

 

It's not too long. Standard ones. Actually I also changed my grips to troubleshoot the issue but of no use.

 

Maybe if it's not much of a problem, I would prefer you to do a quick check coz I need a third party to confirm this. (Some shop claimed throttle cable, some say it's adjustable, hard and soft).

 

Also, I lived in AMK, same area as you. But, it's all up to you lah as I understand the festive season is coming.

WHEN YOU ARE RIDING, YOU ARE IN THE PICTURE UNLIKE DRIVING WHEREBY YOU CAN ONLY SEE PICTURE.o_O

Posted
Thanks for your prompt reply ah pek...

 

It's not too long. Standard ones. Actually I also changed my grips to troubleshoot the issue but of no use.

 

Maybe if it's not much of a problem, I would prefer you to do a quick check coz I need a third party to confirm this. (Some shop claimed throttle cable, some say it's adjustable, hard and soft).

 

Also, I lived in AMK, same area as you. But, it's all up to you lah as I understand the festive season is coming.

 

No problem lah jsut for a look_see check up. Come by this Thurs afternoon say 1.30 pm like dat.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Tonite is even better, if u r free. Maybe u could Pm me ur location so that I could go there.

 

Thanks ah pek.

WHEN YOU ARE RIDING, YOU ARE IN THE PICTURE UNLIKE DRIVING WHEREBY YOU CAN ONLY SEE PICTURE.o_O

Posted
I wanna change new batt. Is it necessary to fully charged it as i've read somewhere that most workshop is reluctant to do that for ya even though it is recommended.

 

No..once the electrolytes are mixed..it's self charging. Tis is for the YTX 9BS type which has 90amperes (current) only..cost about $65-$75. If you go for the dry cell type like YTZ10S and YTZ12s..its 190 amps and 210 amps..very strong in current and last much longer. They are already "activated" (charged) from YUASA factory. Cost between $160-$200 depend on storage life.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Hi all.. I just bought ver s FP plate.. I use yoshi end can.. But the max mileage I clock was 290 den hit reserve.. Is it suppose to be like tat? Last time I ride spec 2, and the mileage is better den my current bike.. I tot ver s fuel can last longer den vtec.. Is it true?

Hot girl this week.. Anyone interested plz PM me.. :bounce:

Posted
No..once the electrolytes are mixed..it's self charging. Tis is for the YTX 9BS type which has 90amperes (current) only..cost about $65-$75. If you go for the dry cell type like YTZ10S and YTZ12s..its 190 amps and 210 amps..very strong in current and last much longer. They are already "activated" (charged) from YUASA factory. Cost between $160-$200 depend on storage life.

 

Thanks William...Once again u have save the day.:bow:

Posted
Hi all.. I just bought ver s FP plate.. I use yoshi end can.. But the max mileage I clock was 290 den hit reserve.. Is it suppose to be like tat? Last time I ride spec 2, and the mileage is better den my current bike.. I tot ver s fuel can last longer den vtec.. Is it true?

 

Your yoshi give give more power. At the cost of more fuel. It depends, my version s only manage 310km in stop and go city riding. Manage 370km in highway cruising.

Try travelling at 80-90 at highway for good fc.

“Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.†- Jeremy Clarkson

 

http://images54.fotki.com/v104/photos/3/1279813/10237619/IMG_0625-vi.jpg[

Posted

Thanks Ah Pek for taking a quick check of my bike. Your wisdom really impresses me.

 

In addition, I hope that we(non v-tech) are able to hang out someday or go for dinner together..

WHEN YOU ARE RIDING, YOU ARE IN THE PICTURE UNLIKE DRIVING WHEREBY YOU CAN ONLY SEE PICTURE.o_O

Posted
Your yoshi give give more power. At the cost of more fuel. It depends, my version s only manage 310km in stop and go city riding. Manage 370km in highway cruising.

Try travelling at 80-90 at highway for good fc.

 

wah bro ur comsumption bery good

compare to vtec models

Posted
wah bro ur comsumption bery good

compare to vtec models

 

Seems all the consumption numbers look better than mine. I only average 21.3km/l. Is it because I have a big windshield and 3 boxes? Or is it something else?

http://simonnunis.smugmug.com/photos/684724736_fuDoa-M-1.jpg
Posted
Seems all the consumption numbers look better than mine. I only average 21.3km/l. Is it because I have a big windshield and 3 boxes? Or is it something else?

 

Don't worry bro , mine 280km reserve Liao lol spec2

PEACE TO THE WORLD.

顺顺利利... å‘啊.

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