SBF Silverwings Cafe 2008 - JDM/Euro 400/600

[SW9000]

Received my bike at 3pm.... already completed 100km and done 1st oil and filter change at FS.

 

Anyway, where to get the head light protector and the coolant radiator guard also? The radiator so exposed I don't feel safe. Arboh.. must DIY liao.

 

And true, the front fork is too soft. Comfy for straight road but cornering very scary de.

[scoobydoo]

Hope to complete the initial 100km + 400km run in by this week.

hi nance, u doing only 500km for run-in only ha (according to manual)? seems a bit short leh.

i also got my bike from ah lee, but ah piau (chief mech at level 1) suggested to do 3k km for run-in

hmmm...

[HelmetBOX1605198525]

wa lau eh. so Qiao...... Went to find botak.. he sick today..... win liao.. i sick he also sick... duh....

 

wasted my time.....

Who knows if feelfree tire coming in already? My Front CMI liao. .i need to change. .Where can change and roughly how muchy...... -_-

 

may to june

[Simple001]

wat time? call me

 

I am interested.... Can u let me know when u r going there again? I would like to tag along as I did not manage to find the place previously.....

[bigcow]

I am interested.... Can u let me know when u r going there again? I would like to tag along as I did not manage to find the place previously.....

 

haha.... got to see that X9hopeful how 1st.

[spin37]

hmmm front oil change liao..

rear suspension changed aftermarket liao.. SHIOK MAN.. feels almost like my old S4... almost as hard.....

At least Corner wont bua the main stand.... hahahhaha

 

how much for rear shocks ?

[Maos Adventure]

wa lau eh. so Qiao...... Went to find botak.. he sick today..... win liao.. i sick he also sick... duh....

 

wasted my time.....

Who knows if feelfree tire coming in already? My Front CMI liao. .i need to change. .Where can change and roughly how muchy...... -_-

 

my friend change to gold standard but the size abit different.

but he can still go touring with it.

 

its a up to individual.

[Simple001]

haha.... got to see that X9hopeful how 1st.

 

Calling X9hopeful..... Calling X9hopeful...

[bigcow]

Calling X9hopeful..... Calling X9hopeful...

 

i give u his number then u call him wan? haha

[BlackChocobo]

Received my bike at 3pm.... already completed 100km and done 1st oil and filter change at FS. Hmm... somebody's 650 is striped. Hope quick recovery for the bike.

 

Anyway, where to get the head light protector and the coolant radiator guard also? The radiator so exposed I don't feel safe. Arboh.. must DIY liao.

 

And true, the front fork is too soft. Comfy for straight road but cornering very scary de.

 

I think we can get the info of radiator guard from the forum... Must look look...

 

I'm also looking for changing of fork... sian a lot of money gonna be taken out liao...

[bigcow]

I think we can get the info of radiator guard from the forum... Must look look...

 

I'm also looking for changing of fork... sian a lot of money gonna be taken out liao...

 

for the radiator guard, is just getting the bbq mesh then diy.

[BlackChocobo]

for the radiator guard, is just getting the bbq mesh then diy.

 

Hmm... Sounds easy...

[Swing 7777]

i wonder at FS the burgerking 650 tt's being stripped is who's

[BlackChocobo]

Suddenly thought of this...

 

For engine oil type, 5W40, 10W50 and so on... What does W means and which is thicker, which is thinner? How many types are there?

 

What type of engine use what oil?

 

For new bikes (my SWing for example) what type should I use? When should I choose to another type?

 

The mech at Tai Hin told me to use fully synthetic oil for new engine as its smoother... Then when piston gets rougher, use semi as they are thicker and can cover the scratches on te piston to maintain the engine better... Any inputs on this advice?

[Maos Adventure]

i wonder at FS the burgerking 650 tt's being stripped is who's

 

your good friend one.

[BlackChocobo]

One more thing... Just to check, why there are people who wants to change to a LeoVince exhaust?

What benefits (if any) can we get from a change of it?

[Swing 7777]

One more thing... Just to check, why there are people who wants to change to a LeoVince exhaust?

What benefits (if any) can we get from a change of it?

 

Exhaust change only can gain a couple of ponies (full system).The main thing is the weight.Stock exhaust usually very heavy n has caterlyzer.Aftermarket usually straight through.but in sg i tink many go for asthetics.

[scoobydoo]

Suddenly thought of this...

 

For engine oil type, 5W40, 10W50 and so on... What does W means and which is thicker, which is thinner? How many types are there?

W=Winter = meaningless in singapore... eo in our engines are considerably warm even at "cold start"

what follows behind W = viscosity = important!!!

higer = more viscous, higher resistance to stress/flow (commonly called "thicker")

30 is more viscous/thicker than water, 40 is more viscous than 30, bla bla bla

What type of engine use what oil?

manual says viscosity 30 to 40, if using synthetic eo must meet minimum JASCO-MA & API-SG standards

 

For new bikes (my SWing for example) what type should I use? When should I choose to another type?

follow what manual says... there's already so many make/model/grades to choose from

what's best depends more on how u stress the engine. for SW, there's no such thing as drop gear and "tua" at high rev... so higher revs = higher speeds ask yourself how fast can you or intend to ride. if don't intend to do prolonged high speed rides (e.g. touring up NS h/w at >7k rpm, overtaking don't count), then fully-syn may be a waste of $$ as semi would do just fine. some pp say if only normal "transport riding" in sinkapor, semi can liow

... my cost-benefit crap again... but if $$ diff not much, why not pamper the ride... whahahaha

 

do see 2nd quote about why pp choose synthetic eo (preferable > grade IV)

The mech at Tai Hin told me to use fully synthetic oil for new engine as its smoother... Then when piston gets rougher, use semi as they are thicker and can cover the scratches on te piston to maintain the engine better... Any inputs on this advice?

got some truth, but not totally. its true that thicker oils can mask many things, but they don't solve the problem... see 1st quote

some mechs recommend only upgrade as downgrades will have adverse "wear-n-tear" effects on engine

suggest you ask & read around... then judge for yourself

Silverwing Euro SW400 '06 model

 

EFI mapping

 

rpm 4.5k --> 80 to 84 km/h

rpm 5k --> 90 to 94 km/h

rpm 5.4k --> 100km/h

rpm 5.8 to 5.9k --> 110km/h

 

also see quoted reference below...

 

btw, type in engine oil rating in google or yahoo and you'll get answer liow

Source: Wikipedia

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

 

The Society of Automotive Engineers, usually abbreviated as SAE, has established a numerical code system for grading motor oils according to their kinematic viscosity. SAE viscosity gradings include the following: 0, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 40, 50, 60 or 70. Some of the numbers can be suffixed with the letter W.

 

Single-grade, or monograde motor oil

For single-grade oils, the kinematic viscosity is measured at a reference temperature of 100°C (212°F) in units of mm²/s or the equivalent older non-SI units, centistokes (abbreviated cSt). Based on the range of viscosity the oil falls in at that temperature, the oil is graded as an SAE number 0, 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 or 70. The higher the viscosity, the higher the SAE grade number is. These numbers are often referred to as the weight of a motor oil. The reference temperature is meant to approximate the operating temperature to which motor oil is exposed in an engine.

The viscosity of single-grade oil derived from petroleum unimproved with additives changes considerably with temperature. As the temperature increases, the viscosity of the oil decreases logarithmically in a relatively predictable manner. On single-grade oils, viscosity testing can be done at cold, winter (W) temperature (as well as checking minimum viscosity at 100°C or 212°F) to grade an oil as SAE number 0W, 5W, 10W, 15W, 20W, or 25W. A single-grade oil graded at the hot temperature is expected to test into the corresponding grade at the winter temperature; i.e. a 10 grade oil should correspond to a 10W oil. For some applications, such as when the temperature ranges in use are not very wide, single-grade motor oil is satisfactory; for example, lawn mower engines, and vintage or classic cars.

 

Multi-grade motor oil

The temperature range the oil is exposed to in most vehicles can be wide, ranging from cold ambient temperatures in the winter before the vehicle is started up to hot operating temperatures when the vehicle is fully warmed up in hot summer weather. A specific oil will have high viscosity when cold and a low viscosity at the engine's operating temperature. The difference in viscosities for any single-grade oil is too large between the extremes of temperature. To bring the difference in viscosities closer together, special polymer additives called viscosity index improvers, or VIs are added to the oil. These additives make the oil a multi-grade motor oil. The idea is to cause the multi-grade oil to have the viscosity of the base number when cold and the viscosity of second number when hot. This enables one type of oil to be generally used all year, and when multi-grades were initially developed, they were frequently described as all-season oil. The viscosity of a multi-grade oil still varies logarithmically with temperature, but the slope representing the change is lessened. This slope representing the change with temperature depends on the nature and amount of the additives to the base oil.

 

The API/SAE designation for multi-grade oils includes two grade numbers; for example, 10W-30 designates a common multi-grade oil. Historically, the first number associated with the W (again 'W' is for Winter, not Weight) is not rated at any single temperature.

 

The "10W" means that this oil can be pumped by your engine as well as a single-grade SAE 10 oil can be pumped. "5W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "10W". "0W" can be pumped at a lower temperature than "5W", and thins less at temperatures above 99°C (210°F).

 

The second number, 30, means that the viscosity of this multi-grade oil at 100°C (212°F) operating temperature corresponds to the viscosity of a single-grade 30 oil at same temperature. The governing SAE standard is called SAE J300. This "classic" method of defining the "W" rating has since been replaced with a more technical test where a "cold crank simulator" is used at increasingly lowered temps. A 0W oil is tested at -35°F, a 5W at -30°F and a 10W is tested at -25°F. The real-world ability of an oil to crank in the cold is diminished soon after put into service. The motor oil grade and viscosity to be used in a given vehicle is specified by the manufacturer of the vehicle (although some modern European cars now make no viscosity requirement), but can vary from country to country when climatic or mpg constraints come into play. Oil circulates through the piston oil rings to cool and lubricate the compression rings. Inside gasoline engines, the top compression ring is exposed to temperatures as high as 500°F.

 

Many new vehicles are marked to use 5W-20 oil (Honda, Ford, and more recently Toyota) which is not much thinner than a 30 weight oil. Nay-sayers of 20 weight oil's ability to protect engines should note that typically, 30 weight oils shear down into the 20 weight range anyway. Most engine wear is during start-up and warm-up period, where the thinner 20 weight oil's flow is desirable. Overall, lab test results of the wear metals contained in used oil samples show low or lower wear with 20 weight than 30 in applications it is specified for. Some ultra fuel efficient and hybrid vehicles are marked to use 0W-20 oil.

 

For some selective mechanical problems with engines, using a more viscous oil can ameliorate the symptoms, i.e. changing from 5W-20 to 20W-50 may eliminate a knocking noise from the engine but doesn't solve the problem, just "masks" it. Excess amounts of oil consumed by an engine burning it can be addressed by using a thicker oil, a 10W-40 might not burn off as fast compared to a 5W-30. A newer product that also addresses this issue is the "High-Miles" oils now marketed. They tend to be slightly thick for their grades, contain extra additives and seal conditioners. Apparently the formulation of these oils works well in many instances.

 

note:

it is best to refer to your bike's manual for the recommended ratings of engine oil to use

 

Synthetic motor oil:

Instead of making motor oil with the conventional petroleum base, "true" synthetic oil base stocks are artificially synthesized. Synthetic oils are derived from either Group III mineral base oils, Group IV, or Group V non-mineral bases. True synthetics include classes of lubricants like synthetic esters as well as "others" like GTL (Methane Gas-to-Liquid) (Group V) and polyalpha-olefins (Group IV, also called PAO), although actual base oil content of finished blended motor oils is not a factor.

 

Higher purity and therefore better property control theoretically means synthetic oil has good mechanical properties at extremes of high and low temperatures. The molecules are made large and "soft" enough to retain good viscosity at higher temperatures, yet branched molecular structures interfere with solidification and therefore allow flow at lower temperatures. Thus, although the viscosity still decreases as temperature increases, these synthetic motor oils have a much improved viscosity index over the traditional petroleum base. Their specially designed properties allow a wider temperature range at higher and lower temperatures and often include a lower pour point. With their improved viscosity index, true synthetic oils need little or no viscosity index improvers, which are the oil components most vulnerable to thermal and mechanical degradation as the oil ages, and thus they do not degrade as quickly as traditional motor oils.

 

Synthetic lubricants are designed for "long life" extended drain intervals, but most users rarely run them long enough to gain a cost-effective return. If a "synthetic" oil costs 2 to 3 times as much as a conventional oil, it would have to be used for 2 to 3 times longer than a conventional oil just to break even.

[anodise57]

wa scooby.. thats quite a big for digestion... Got exam for this????

 

hahaha

 

Good reading material manzz.... Swee ah

[scoobydoo]

wa scooby.. thats quite a big for digestion... Got exam for this????

 

hahaha

 

Good reading material manzz.... Swee ah

whahaha... that's why got highlighted portions

big fish cannot digest? eat the eyes and cheek meat first, the rest 慢慢来

[scoobydoo]

hmmm front oil change liao..

rear suspension changed aftermarket liao.. SHIOK MAN.. feels almost like my old S4... almost as hard.....

At least Corner wont bua the main stand.... hahahhaha

was really considering what you did... for safety

speed was a little fast at roundabout linking KJE to BKE (towards PIE) the other day, almost went off line... scary siah

must bear in mind 安全第一

[anodise57]

well.... mine was old bike liao.. At 1st wanted to change a pair of OE ones....but i felt the new bike also quite soft....

Might as well...

 

Feels Shiok ah!!!!!!

[anodise57]

wrong entry.. paiseh

[SW9000]

hi nance, u doing only 500km for run-in only ha (according to manual)? seems a bit short leh.

i also got my bike from ah lee, but ah piau (chief mech at level 1) suggested to do 3k km for run-in

hmmm...

 

Most friends say just ride normally and don't 'wack' it can liao.

But to play safe, I'll just stay within rpm 5 (90km/h) for 1st 500km.

Bring it up to rpm 6 slowly for next 500km and then rpm 7 till 1500km.

Should be ok by then.... I hope. hehe.

[bigcow]

Most friends say just ride normally and don't 'wack' it can liao.

But to play safe, I'll just stay within rpm 5 (90km/h) for 1st 500km.

Bring it up to rpm 6 slowly for next 500km and then rpm 7 till 1500km.

Should be ok by then.... I hope. hehe.

 

this way is very good. but forgetting, riding a scooter, only have to run-in the block, piston & that 2 pieces of gears. unlike manual bikes, have to run-in more cos they have a gear box to run-in.