Yamaha YZF-R6

[OhMiGosh]

as for fairing i don think can~ most likely due to shape! but Fer exhuast shouldn't be a problem~

 

asked with bikeshop le.. they say end-can same but header different. wont fit de..

[mich]

`chUn;3798880']where to get the midpipe?

 

i try find at ebay dunno hw to seach ?

i type R6midpipe , no result =.-

 

ytd i went amk seng kwang ask to removed the "BOX" they say ask me go thosam seng kwang for them to check again and must get mech to removed the pipe b4 sending to them ..

 

very ma fan lor =.-

 

bro, u removin the box then put wat to join the middle part? mid pipe? but remember our 4-2-1, the 2 area still got cat wor.. i m findin place to remove it as SK say cannot the metal will go out of allignment..

[Dzesario]

jazz wheel dude... opp HKL

 

ok thx bro...

[Shawn--]

Anyone interested to order the crash bar at SK?

[YyuAnN]

envy u guys with ur R6. anyway jus wanna ask. the whole R6 bike cant store aniting right? the seat cannot be opened one right?

[3chUn]

sorry lag , repeat post

[Lion]

envy u guys with ur R6. anyway jus wanna ask. the whole R6 bike cant store aniting right? the seat cannot be opened one right?

 

Pillion seat can be opened up. However, storage space is very minimal. The factory tool kit itself takes up the whole compartment space.

[3chUn]

To remove the box of cos mafan, is with the header lehs. When you remove, the airflow and all im sure there is a change,so are you gona place a PC3?

 

planning to place a PC3..

 

but is there any other ways to adjust the fuel setting other den placing a PC3?

 

i wanna remove cos even with a yoshi on my bike the pipe still sound very ***** =.- my fren yoshi on his RVF sound much more louder den mine lor..

[3chUn]

bro, u removin the box then put wat to join the middle part? mid pipe? but remember our 4-2-1, the 2 area still got cat wor.. i m findin place to remove it as SK say cannot the metal will go out of allignment..

 

den how ?

 

no way to removed it?

[hanzi24]

`chUn;3798880']where to get the midpipe?

 

i try find at ebay dunno hw to seach ?

i type R6midpipe , no result =.-

 

ytd i went amk seng kwang ask to removed the "BOX" they say ask me go thosam seng kwang for them to check again and must get mech to removed the pipe b4 sending to them ..

 

very ma fan lor =.-

 

this is one of the midpipe, t-tuner... reviews rather good but it's look is very bad... the cheapest midpipe so far: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Mid-Pipe_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35573QQihZ004QQitemZ140201394000QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

[mich]

`chUn;3801736']den how ?

 

no way to removed it?

 

thats what my question is also...lookin for shop which can do it..now even SK say cannot do it,dunno where else can do..

 

they say cut already very hard to joint back..i even sugguested that they cut away the cat area n replace with hollow ones also cannot..

[hanzi24]

thats what my question is also...lookin for shop which can do it..now even SK say cannot do it,dunno where else can do..

 

they say cut already very hard to joint back..i even sugguested that they cut away the cat area n replace with hollow ones also cannot..

 

but seems like not that difficult, i have been doing read ups past few months on midpipe and most of them in US actually just DIY, sawing the cat off and join up the midpipe with clamps provided...

[mich]

but seems like not that difficult, i have been doing read ups past few months on midpipe and most of them in US actually just DIY, sawing the cat off and join up the midpipe with clamps provided...

 

but if use clamp to just tighten n join back,will it be secure? maybe tml i go SK check with them again..really hope to find a solution to this...

[3chUn]

this is one of the midpipe, t-tuner... reviews rather good but it's look is very bad... the cheapest midpipe so far: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Mid-Pipe_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ35573QQihZ004QQitemZ140201394000QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

 

tis 1 look great !!!

anyshop carry tis in?

 

anyone wanna get it together?

[hanzi24]

but if use clamp to just tighten n join back,will it be secure? maybe tml i go SK check with them again..really hope to find a solution to this...

 

this im not sure, u can go http://www.r6-forum.com and read up the details on midpipe mod... dun think any of them has unsecure issues...

[AR2 Performance]

Pillion seat can be opened up. However, storage space is very minimal. The factory tool kit itself takes up the whole compartment space.

 

 

Chuck the OEM tool kit and repack with what essential for emergency uses. I don't tink you can use the C-spanner to adjust while on the road, or use the spark plug holder to change spark plug unless its intended right? The below is what i bring along, might not be the optimal, but sure helped many who ahd troubles when we go out

 

1. Single Screwdriver with swopable philips or minus head x01

2. Allen key size (probably 4,5 & 6) x01 set

3. 1 spanner of size 10 & 12 x01

4. Foldable scissor like those u use in primary school x01

5. Cable ties x10

6. Bicycle torch light x01

 

The above 5 items are kept in a handphone pouch & only takes up an approximate 15x5x3cm of space in the super "hamster sized" compartment.

 

Hope it helps

[AR2 Performance]

I was just wondering why you guys dont try the hard run-in? I heard it will cut down time spent for running-in and gain or a few bhp?

 

Some info that i plugged out from a post back in August '07............. but just like newspapers and tabloids, don't believe in EVERYTHING you read...Comprehend, analyze & trial. Decision lies in you. Homework needs to be done, before selection of personal choice.

 

We all learn as we ride, share, think and analyse though. There has been a relatively huge argument/debate/sharing in SBF for sometime on hard & soft run-ins. ---> Sensitive issue if the posts go in the "wrong" direction. Its great to see this thread in the "healthy" zone

 

 

 

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These are my personal experience/opinions...

 

 

Which is better? To the user to DECIDE:-

 

It has always been MAJORITY (OEM run-in spec) vs minority (moto-man recommendations) issue on run-ins. Theoretically, if 2 same bikes (same care, type of use, with like maybe 100,000km mileage which equally ridden as harsh & hard, same EO etcetc.. but too many variables) were to be torn apart right to the valves and conrods at the same time, that would probably be a best bet to which is better. But... we can't achieve that, unless someone does the above mentioned on 2 spanking new bikes and run all day & night long, and does some good analysis/testing.

 

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The final result everyone is look for:

 

But back to the books/basics/engineering. The ultimate reason for run-in is to keep a motorcycle's compression ratio optimal by having a good seal between your multiple piston rings and cylinder walls. In a more rider's general view/comprehension, is to keep your machine going strong with years of use.

 

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Simplified explaination of ring seal:-

 

To many common consensuous, piston rings actually don't seal the combustion pressure by spring tension. "Scraping" of EO to prevent it from entering the combustion chamber is what the ring tensions' primary job.

 

If a ring of about 5-10 lbs of spring tension is pushing on cylinder wall, it is not logically & technically for it withstand a motorcycle's combustion pressure in units of PSI? What seals is basically the actual combustion gas pressure itself, forcing it outward against the cylinder wall.

 

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What "run-in" actually does:-

 

Brand new rings are not optimal to perform a good seal, thus a need to "run-in" to ensure good seal all the way around the bore (cylinder walls). If sufficient combustion pressure is strong enough during "run-in", the entire ring will wear into the cylinder surface, to seal the combustion pressure as well.

 

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How is the engine designed for any run-ins:-

 

A new cylinder wall is rough/crosshatched/honed, thus will wear the rings down. So matter you hard or soft run-in, the optimal roughness is be gone (that is why metal bits are obvious in the first oil change). So if the rings aren't forced against the walls soon enough, they'll use up the roughness before they fully seat. Once that happens there is no solution but to re-hone/re-hatch the cylinders, install new rings and start over again.

 

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I have witness also:-

 

1. An 03R6 (like you i was curious on "hard" run-ins.. so there you go.. a guinea pig back then) with "hard" run-in via ROAD, and still going as strong as its was out from the showroom despite having almost 50,000km mileage of hard riding.

 

2. Brand new K5 1000s on "hard" run-ins via DYNO, when compared with another with "soft" run-in, the dyno figures were healthier (dynoed within 5000km..)

 

With ALL the above in mind:-

 

I took chance to try "hard" run-in a new R6 (only at 18,000km now.. still as strong & hitting 276~286kmh well, but not enough mileage for any outstanding reviews.), after a "soft" run-in with a previous VFR (at 40,000km it really feels a bit nuah and never hit 255kmh as well as before).

 

But a bad bad run-in method is to stay at 1 constant rpm all the way, coz you don't get good "loading" between your rings n walls, be it with a "soft" or "hard" run-in method.

 

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All in all, we are not saying which is better. But just sharing out the logic behind the need for an effective run-in.

 

With the logical and technical information in hand, I myself decided for "hard" run-in the effort also to find out myself which is better.

 

If your worry is the engine gonna blow in the first 500kmh of hard riding, it would have blown during the QC stage of 1 lot.

 

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DISCLAIMER:-

 

The above mentioned in terms of bike results are solely individual experience and encounters. We are not liable for any mishaps occurred in view of our results.

 

 

 

More break-in discussions --> http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153621

[299]

Why not get a full system instead, by tampering the cataylzer is illegal,it may cost u more .

 

My 2 cents worth.

[gunshead]

look carefully

 

http://www.topspeed.com/motorcycles/motorcycle-reviews/yamaha/2008-yamaha-yzf-r6-ar43366/pictures.html

 

euro version colors differ with asian colors

 

http://www.ibike.com.hk click yamaha

[Non Stop Racing]

another tactical by diy guru master ar2. up for you my fren !!! enjoy reading even though i finish run in long ago.. hard hard too. haha

[Non Stop Racing]

`chUn;3801728']planning to place a PC3..

 

but is there any other ways to adjust the fuel setting other den placing a PC3?

 

i wanna remove cos even with a yoshi on my bike the pipe still sound very ***** =.- my fren yoshi on his RVF sound much more louder den mine lor..

 

2 word - FULL SYS .

[Lion]

Chuck the OEM tool kit and repack with what essential for emergency uses. I don't tink you can use the C-spanner to adjust while on the road, or use the spark plug holder to change spark plug unless its intended right? The below is what i bring along, might not be the optimal, but sure helped many who ahd troubles when we go out

 

1. Single Screwdriver with swopable philips or minus head x01

2. Allen key size (probably 4,5 & 6) x01 set

3. 1 spanner of size 10 & 12 x01

4. Foldable scissor like those u use in primary school x01

5. Cable ties x10

6. Bicycle torch light x01

 

The above 5 items are kept in a handphone pouch & only takes up an approximate 15x5x3cm of space in the super "hamster sized" compartment.

 

Hope it helps

That was good info

 

Any idea whether a brand new bike, done 200+ km riding on road still qualifies for hard-run in?

[LamerFornica]

`chUn;3801728']planning to place a PC3..

 

but is there any other ways to adjust the fuel setting other den placing a PC3?

 

i wanna remove cos even with a yoshi on my bike the pipe still sound very ***** =.- my fren yoshi on his RVF sound much more louder den mine lor..

 

Chun u put Yoshi also ah?? wah sianx i tink i go remove liaos cos you put yoshi liaos. If you just adjust the current fuel settings it will just be a general setting only but your air flow and fuel is different at every power band so you need a PC3 to configure.

[Syrus]

tempting.....http://www.oppracing.com/images/3151-complete-kit-r6-06-07/

[ravenSP]

2 word - FULL SYS .

 

yeah, why not? a fs a more worth it