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Posted

Hello All,

 

I just sold off my Shadow ACE and gotten myself a Revo.

 

Still very new to CB400, hence might need helps and advises from bros here moving forward.

 

I am still adapting to the increase of power, especially when moving on and changing of gear. :)

 

Overall, I am very satisfied with Revo, and hopefully moving forward it won't give me a lot of problem. Cheers! :)

-= Ride to Freedom, Freedom to Ride =-

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Posted (edited)
My instinct tells me how can a throttle body gets spoiled by water intrusion? And even if so, wouldn't a thorough cleaning resolves the problem? A 2-year old bike having wear and tear on the throttle body to the extent of beyond repair sounds very unconvincing.

 

I second that. Maybe its just dirty or some minor component needs to be replaced, But Boon Siew does not do such things so they replaced them :dot:

 

I third that! And I'm very curious as to how a throttle body of a 2y/o or even 3y/o bike can fail beyond repair.

 

IMHO that their explanation of water getting into the throttle body is at best, shallow. Ours is a naked bike, thus exposed to the elements. If we ride at say, 100km/h in a thunderstorm, the force of water should be the equivalent of water jets. I'm no scientist, so this is only a guestimate... :)

 

Having said that, I agree that we shouldn't wash our bikes with high pressure water jets. When sending my bike for wash, I always ask them to lower the pressure or ask them to cover the nozzle with their hands when spraying water on the bike.

 

Anyway, coming back to the throttle body, those parts that might fail would probably be the butterfly valve, bearings and springs. As the body itself is essentially a hollowed out piece of metal, I believe it shouldn't "fail" and those faulty parts can just be serviced or replaced.

 

Click here for more info on throttles and throttle bodies.

Edited by ramsnake
shouldn't wash

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted
hi revo bros and sis(if there is)

 

i want to ask.. a 2nd hand revo with abs..worth 12k.. is it ok?

 

Few days ago Bike Production selling 08 Revo ABS for 10k. Not sure still around a not. :)

 

You can call them or check out their post in advertisement board. Cheers.

-= Ride to Freedom, Freedom to Ride =-

Posted
Few days ago Bike Production selling 08 Revo ABS for 10k. Not sure still around a not. :)

 

You can call them or check out their post in advertisement board. Cheers.

 

Yup i was there.. saw it.. 12k is the one with pipe and abs.. 10k no pipe no abs..

was thinking of getting revo after i tried riding drz.. my mind went back to revo..

isthe price ok for both 2008 bike but diff systems?

Ride for our loves ones..:cool:

Posted
Yup i was there.. saw it.. 12k is the one with pipe and abs.. 10k no pipe no abs..

was thinking of getting revo after i tried riding drz.. my mind went back to revo..

isthe price ok for both 2008 bike but diff systems?

 

How old is the bike? other than pipe and abs, any other accessories?

-= Ride to Freedom, Freedom to Ride =-

Posted
How old is the bike? other than pipe and abs, any other accessories?

 

late 2008.. coe end 2018... there's a slider only.. tot of getting this one and join the revo family.. hehe.. i go other shops.. revo selling all above 12k but stock bikes..

Ride for our loves ones..:cool:

Posted

First hand revo without abs is 14.8k inclusive Coe. Additional 1k with abs.

 

Let's say the pipe cost 1k, that means cost different of new n 2nd hand bike is 3.8k different. Then u have to decide is 3.8k worth 4 years of the bike age? Maybe look into the condition of bike, and mileage.

-= Ride to Freedom, Freedom to Ride =-

Posted

Yup Condition of the bike is the primary priority when buying 2nd hand, Mine is with the ABS and bol'dor version 08 model registered in 09....mileage is high but if you have take good care of it , a 3 to 4 year old bike's condition can be better than a year old bike

http://i570.photobucket.com/albums/ss143/godsendworx/mesh/supporters/ldslds_siggy-1.gif

 

BY GODSENDWORX=)

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/305185-ldslds-GARAGE-SALES!!

Posted
Yup Condition of the bike is the primary priority when buying 2nd hand, Mine is with the ABS and bol'dor version 08 model registered in 09....mileage is high but if you have take good care of it , a 3 to 4 year old bike's condition can be better than a year old bike

 

thnkas for the tips guys.. mmmm from what i see together with my friend.. the bike still looks good.. the owner took care of the bike.. well i hav to ride it and see how it is.. lol.. ok la set.. sat take out bike la.. huat ah!

Ride for our loves ones..:cool:

Posted

Evening guys, quick question, It's better not to fix the crash bar onto our engine rather to bolt it to the frame right? If that is true, my revo's side where the clutch is, the crash bar is mounted onto the engine. Not the frame actually. Is it possible to mount it onto the frame or revo's crash bar just like that. I'm talking about 3 point crash bar. Very common one. Thanks guys! :D

http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m206/blade_trinity21/EditedRevo2.jpg
Posted
Evening guys, quick question, It's better not to fix the crash bar onto our engine rather to bolt it to the frame right? If that is true, my revo's side where the clutch is, the crash bar is mounted onto the engine. Not the frame actually. Is it possible to mount it onto the frame or revo's crash bar just like that. I'm talking about 3 point crash bar. Very common one. Thanks guys! :D

 

Haha. I noticed ur question has been stranded for days. I wish i could help! But i cant! Hope someone helps u soon!

Posted
Evening guys, quick question, It's better not to fix the crash bar onto our engine rather to bolt it to the frame right? If that is true, my revo's side where the clutch is, the crash bar is mounted onto the engine. Not the frame actually. Is it possible to mount it onto the frame or revo's crash bar just like that. I'm talking about 3 point crash bar. Very common one. Thanks guys! :D

 

 

By correct practice...the body chassis frame should absorb any impact of a fall bike or down by accident. The 3 point crash bar is see commonly is incorrect as the mounting points are at the engine mount points. This proved to be damaging to especially carbs bike as there be movement internally of components like the needles and floats where damage is very possible due to an impact when the bike falls heavily. As for REVO being a fuel injection bikes bearing no carbs..still I believe the four mounting points (two on each side) of the main front frame is there not for no purpose. In this case..two point mounting is recommended using those 2 points each side as the chassis be absorbing an impact fall.

 

If u can custom frabricate a 3 point ones making use of the chassis frame..that's fine but I have yet to see one. As for slider..its only right to mount them onto the chassis frame too.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

Haha. Thanks ah pek. Guess i learnt something useful today then. So in short. No crashbar in sg( or maybe u have yet to seen ) is mounted at the right place. Meaning quite pointless to install a crashbar huh?

 

When many people says ah pek grounding. Is it done by you? Maybe i can come find u do after i get my new bike!

Posted
Haha. Thanks ah pek. Guess i learnt something useful today then. So in short. No crashbar in sg( or maybe u have yet to seen ) is mounted at the right place. Meaning quite pointless to install a crashbar huh?

 

When many people says ah pek grounding. Is it done by you? Maybe i can come find u do after i get my new bike!

 

No..dat's not wat I meant...its better and recommended to have crashbar or at least slider but the mounting point on frame is there for u to use...not the engine mounting location..its know as two points crash bar by w locals here.

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted

alright. then maybe i will try to find a crashbar that is mounted onto the chassis frame, if not i shall use a slider then.

paiseh ah. ask again.

ah pek grounding done by u? =)

if 3,4,5 point grounding prices how much ah? ( for revo )

Posted
alright. then maybe i will try to find a crashbar that is mounted onto the chassis frame, if not i shall use a slider then.

paiseh ah. ask again.

ah pek grounding done by u? =)

if 3,4,5 point grounding prices how much ah? ( for revo )

 

There are many a mototiam that does this and each has their own setup and configuration..how effective, u would know once its done. Point grounding are normally refer to those done in cars and most effective for RF (Radio Frequency) interference and spike transient (short-lived oscillation in a system caused by a sudden change of voltage, current or load) that can damage electronics components in car equipment..as there rae too many ground references thus some negative are MORE negative than it should thus result in "pontential different (meaning +ve/-ve). For bike..we do not do that.."looping" should be adopted and when done proper..u get maxium electrial load supply to ur ignition coil thus resulted in better combustion which in turn..max horsepower from your engine.

 

What I said above is the what it suppose to be when RIGHT grounding is done. How it works?..if the motiam can explain it right (which is not explained here)..then u can trust that it be effective. In short..there is no such things as "how many points". U wanna count...mine ends up a lot...ha....x3!

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
There are many a mototiam that does this and each has their own setup and configuration..how effective, u would know once its done. Point grounding are normally refer to those done in cars and most effective for RF (Radio Frequency) interference and spike transient (short-lived oscillation in a system caused by a sudden change of voltage, current or load) that can damage electronics components in car equipment..as there rae too many ground references thus some negative are MORE negative than it should thus result in "pontential different (meaning +ve/-ve). For bike..we do not do that.."looping" should be adopted and when done proper..u get maxium electrial load supply to ur ignition coil thus resulted in better combustion which in turn..max horsepower from your engine.

 

What I said above is the what it suppose to be when RIGHT grounding is done. How it works?..if the motiam can explain it right (which is not explained here)..then u can trust that it be effective. In short..there is no such things as "how many points". U wanna count...mine ends up a lot...ha....x3!

 

thanks for the knowledge! =) will contact you if i want it done after i get my bike!

Posted (edited)
Hi guys, any good hand grips to recommend? My palm and wrist hurt when when riding with original grip.

 

Handle bar grips are a very personal thing. What is silky soft to the touch to one may be hard to another. Best is to look around yourself. FOC grip test is at any bike park. Just grip them so you know the difference. Chances are once you find the feel that you like, look for similar feel ones at the shops. If you're lucky, you'll find the exact ones that you've "tested".

 

If you find the stock grips hard, stay away from the Rizoma or "Rizoma design" ones.

 

Edit:

Stay away from the sponge type grips. Yes, they are soft but in our tropical weather, they are also good breeding ground for bacteria! Super smelly and unhygienic after awhile.

Edited by ramsnake

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted
Evening guys, quick question, It's better not to fix the crash bar onto our engine rather to bolt it to the frame right? If that is true, my revo's side where the clutch is, the crash bar is mounted onto the engine. Not the frame actually. Is it possible to mount it onto the frame or revo's crash bar just like that. I'm talking about 3 point crash bar. Very common one. Thanks guys! :D

 

By correct practice...the body chassis frame should absorb any impact of a fall bike or down by accident. The 3 point crash bar is see commonly is incorrect as the mounting points are at the engine mount points. This proved to be damaging to especially carbs bike as there be movement internally of components like the needles and floats where damage is very possible due to an impact when the bike falls heavily. As for REVO being a fuel injection bikes bearing no carbs..still I believe the four mounting points (two on each side) of the main front frame is there not for no purpose. In this case..two point mounting is recommended using those 2 points each side as the chassis be absorbing an impact fall.

 

If u can custom frabricate a 3 point ones making use of the chassis frame..that's fine but I have yet to see one. As for slider..its only right to mount them onto the chassis frame too.

 

No..dat's not wat I meant...its better and recommended to have crashbar or at least slider but the mounting point on frame is there for u to use...not the engine mounting location..its know as two points crash bar by w locals here.

 

Saw this question by @static369 but didn't answer coz I knew need quite some time to answer properly... :)

Thanks to @Ah Pek for answering :thumb:

 

Just to add on:

The sliders that I see in the market are also mounted to the engine mounting point. So, if anyone intends to get sliders instead of custom crash bars, do take note. I believe those sliders can't be mounted onto the chassis points just below the radiator that Ah Pek is talking about. This is because they may be too short to be effective.

 

Another consideration is that some of those popular-used-on-race bikes crash protectors come in the form of covers bolted onto the existing engine covers, typically at the clutch cover on the left and alternator cover on the right. The principle behind these is that the engine is a stressed-member and form part of the chassis. In most crashes the bike slides. The protectors are sliders and as such will protect the original covers. Worse case scenario is that the engines covers themselves can be replaced if need to. That being the case, if custom crash bars is not within your budget, those mounted on the engine mounting points will serve the same purpose as the engine covers.

 

At the end of the day, if the bike suffers impact damage to the engine area, in some cases even chassis mounted crash bars may not save your bike. This is because the impact may then cause the chassis to be bent or worse cracked, resulting in bike write-off.

 

The best protection is rider awareness to avoid accidents as much as possible. Followed closely by chassis mounted cars/sliders for some slide protection.

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

Posted

Sorry for the late post of pics of Hakim's throttle body. Suddenly very busy... :)

 

Here they are:

 

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h357/ramsnake/Honda%20Revo%20Throttle%20Body/ThrottleBodyTopView.jpg

 

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h357/ramsnake/Honda%20Revo%20Throttle%20Body/FrontView-ConnecttoEngine.jpg

 

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h357/ramsnake/Honda%20Revo%20Throttle%20Body/RevoHakimThrotleValves12.jpg

 

http://i1105.photobucket.com/albums/h357/ramsnake/Honda%20Revo%20Throttle%20Body/RevoHakimThrotleValves34.jpg

Be wary of the source of information for your bike's maintenance. Some FAQs are compiled by people who lack the technical know how. :angel:

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