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Posted
How u know got powercut bro. Urs is the malaysia Cdi is it. Malaysia cdi not powerful it's more of like slow. I have full revved till 12k rpm on krr. Japan Cdi is much more stronger. U might need to change ur spark plug head to a high quality one

 

Now tt explains is. For me kr 24 to 27 average anything less is bad tuning ready

 

drak3st3r like pro man! Can I have your hp number, msn or fb? I really newb in KR & would like to learn more from you.

Posted
hi, anyone know on where to go for nice and cheap paintwork/airbrush?
cheap = not good and good = not cheap

 

Just found out that my CDI has power cut. Now I'm looking for 2nd hand CDI.
big diff meh with cdi change

http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/artpark/297843_10150305373042639_564927638_8154723_1047297513_n-1.jpg

http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af191/artpark/IMG_0029.jpg

Posted
drak3st3r like pro man! Can I have your hp number, msn or fb? I really newb in KR & would like to learn more from you.

 

yes!

this guy just like desmond!

got bike knowledged,friendly n willing to teach/help without hiding any other intension earing $ or bring u go HOLLAND!:thumb:

Posted

@bugsy_ bro u can try tighten if you feel uncomfortable then u can change lo! my fren did it in JB for RM110, should be quite reasonable.

Yamaha Supreme X1 - April 2011 till September 2011

Kawasaki KRR ZX150 - September 2011 till August 2012

CB400 VTEC II - August 2012 - Current

 

"I Don't Ride Fast, I Fly Low"

Posted

Anyway guys I'm still looking for head fairing for kawa. Paintwork does not have to be nice, abit crack here and there also can but cannot corner or clips area crack. I am also looking for 2nd hand IU, big or small one dosen matter also. Please PM me. Thanks!!

Yamaha Supreme X1 - April 2011 till September 2011

Kawasaki KRR ZX150 - September 2011 till August 2012

CB400 VTEC II - August 2012 - Current

 

"I Don't Ride Fast, I Fly Low"

Posted
How u know got powercut bro. Urs is the malaysia Cdi is it. Malaysia cdi not powerful it's more of like slow. I have full revved till 12k rpm on krr. Japan Cdi is much more stronger. U might need to change ur spark plug head to a high quality one

 

Now tt explains is. For me kr 24 to 27 average anything less is bad tuning ready

 

bro~~ where to get japan CDI? issit that power? and btw what u mean by 24 to 27 tunning.. how to see? newbie to kr too~~ ;D

Class 2B ~ 09 June 2010 (2nd attempt passed)

 

Class 2A ~ ?

 

Class 2 ~ ?

 

Kr 150 ~ 19 June 2010 ~ 3 Jan 2014

 

Yamaha Fz16 Naked ~ 16 Jan 2014 ~ ?

Posted
How u know got powercut bro. Urs is the malaysia Cdi is it. Malaysia cdi not powerful it's more of like slow. I have full revved till 12k rpm on krr. Japan Cdi is much more stronger. U might need to change ur spark plug head to a high quality one

 

Now tt explains is. For me kr 24 to 27 average anything less is bad tuning ready

 

bro.. mine only 18~20.. Max 24

Main jet 270, air jet 25.. Tune around 0.8 round.. I'm heavy weight with a heavy box.. any recommendation for higher FC? ;)

 

yes!

this guy just like desmond!

got bike knowledged,friendly n willing to teach/help without hiding any other intension earing $ or bring u go HOLLAND!:thumb:

 

haha.. no point hiding intension earnings ma.. If wan to earn, tell you upfront liaoz.. :)

Just like you also ma.. no earning, teach me air spray.. *but I noob.. dunno how to airspray nicely like yours.. I'm still jealous your bike sia.. will drool over it.. whahaha...

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted
yes!

this guy just like desmond!

got bike knowledged,friendly n willing to teach/help without hiding any other intension earing $ or bring u go HOLLAND!:thumb:

 

thanks u thank u. i like learning and teaching alot la. tts where all these knowledge come from.haha. still got more to learn.

 

test fix the carb n pm me the result,can!

 

sure thing. but not anytime soon la, cause i getting an rxz for myself. so either i will test on my friends bike or wait till i get my krr or test on my rxz.hahah lagi best.

 

anyone know change cone bearing ard how much? mine damm loose alr not nice to corner.

dun need change if loose. can just tighten but make sure its not loose because bearing spoilt or anything. feel for jerk when turning, if have change new ones. costs only 65 ringgit in malaysia. if no jerk then just tighten, think 10 ringgit like that.

 

bro~~ where to get japan CDI? issit that power? and btw what u mean by 24 to 27 tuning.. how to see? newbie to kr too~~ ;D

its quite hard either u pay 300 plus to 400 and buy from kawaski thailand or see if anyone letting go on the market. but beware its super rare. i used to have one and i sold it.the person who bought it use till his ignition coil burn cause the cdi has a stronger spark so the wire n coil couldnt take it. he had to change to yz 125 ignition coil.

 

actually its not because its japan so its good. the japan cdi people commonly refer to is a specific model of krr cdi which is 1454 and was only madi in japan. it was one of the very first cdis and was originally introduced on the krr serpico. now the question is so what?? and the answer is krr serpico has a horsepower of 40 where as our krr zx is only 31.haha. so where u think the added horsepower come from. one of the reason is their cdi and hence the search for the cdi continues.hahaha

 

that cdi has a better power curve. mean for our normal cdi the peak power is 31hp at 10500. for serpico cdi its 40 hp at 11000rpm. from this u can see that u have a longer rpm of about 500rpm since the time u open ur valve. dun think so little cause it quite makes a huge difference at goin at 200 kph. haha.also the serpico cdi has a so called better low end and mid range curve meaning ur pickup is slightly faster and ur mid range is more smooth and responsive.

 

24 to 27 i am referring to the distance u can go for a liter of petrol. so its like 24km per liter.

to find out your. top up petrol full tank, reset your meter by turning the knob at the side of the meter on the left.then ride till u hit reserve without opening your valve to get the most accurate reading.see the meter readying is show what. then divide by 10.5. so it u get 315 then 315km divide by 10.5L u get 30km per liter. and tts a superb mileage.haha

bro.. mine only 18~20.. Max 24

Main jet 270, air jet 25.. Tune around 0.8 round.. I'm heavy weight with a heavy box.. any recommendation for higher FC? ;)

haha.. no point hiding intension earnings ma.. If wan to earn, tell you upfront liaoz.. :)

Just like you also ma.. no earning, teach me air spray.. *but I noob.. dunno how to airspray nicely like yours.. I'm still jealous your bike sia.. will drool over it.. whahaha...

 

haha. actually can improve slightly.

if u dun whack then u can lower the jet one size so a little leaner.

get a good coolant to keep temperature low then remove unnecessary stuffs and all.

importantly your tyre pressure plays a big part.

pump air to stock pressure if u below 90 and if over 90 then pump the pillion weight pressure.

then dun always pump full tank. carry extra half tank petrol everywhere u go for what? carry petrol only to waste petrol carrying it. haha.

 

one last and important thing . workout and fc auto decrease.haha... just kidding. no offence at all bro. everyone healthy live long and happy.

Posted

haha. actually can improve slightly.

if u dun whack then u can lower the jet one size so a little leaner.

get a good coolant to keep temperature low then remove unnecessary stuffs and all.

importantly your tyre pressure plays a big part.

pump air to stock pressure if u below 90 and if over 90 then pump the pillion weight pressure.

then dun always pump full tank. carry extra half tank petrol everywhere u go for what? carry petrol only to waste petrol carrying it. haha.

 

one last and important thing . workout and fc auto decrease.haha... just kidding. no offence at all bro. everyone healthy live long and happy.

 

one jet lower? You mean 260 or 22.5?

 

Btw, I can't afford to lower to 260 (temp always high)

22.5 tested, bike wun start with too little air.. (kick 20 times lor)..

 

Coolant is the best = engine ice..

Tyre pressure is 41PSI at the back and 35 PSI infront.. normally I put 2 more PSI because air will leak everytime we pull out.. :)

 

hmm.. I cannot let my tank go below 1/2 lei.. *tank rusty.. whahaha..

 

Workout = cannot because back issues.. swimming sometimes.. (going back to be weekly soon..) ;)

no worries.. :)

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted
bro.. mine only 18~20.. Max 24

Main jet 270, air jet 25.. Tune around 0.8 round.. I'm heavy weight with a heavy box.. any recommendation for higher FC? ;)

 

haha.. no point hiding intension earnings ma.. If wan to earn, tell you upfront liaoz.. :)

Just like you also ma.. no earning, teach me air spray.. *but I noob.. dunno how to airspray nicely like yours.. I'm still jealous your bike sia.. will drool over it.. whahaha...

 

haha!

in this world got many this type of ppl wan!

hahaha!

this mean i too sensitive

a sign of getting old liao!!

hahaha

Posted
thanks u thank u. i like learning and teaching alot la. tts where all these knowledge come from.haha. still got more to learn.

 

 

 

sure thing. but not anytime soon la, cause i getting an rxz for myself. so either i will test on my friends bike or wait till i get my krr or test on my rxz.hahah lagi best.

 

 

dun need change if loose. can just tighten but make sure its not loose because bearing spoilt or anything. feel for jerk when turning, if have change new ones. costs only 65 ringgit in malaysia. if no jerk then just tighten, think 10 ringgit like that.

 

 

its quite hard either u pay 300 plus to 400 and buy from kawaski thailand or see if anyone letting go on the market. but beware its super rare. i used to have one and i sold it.the person who bought it use till his ignition coil burn cause the cdi has a stronger spark so the wire n coil couldnt take it. he had to change to yz 125 ignition coil.

 

actually its not because its japan so its good. the japan cdi people commonly refer to is a specific model of krr cdi which is 1454 and was only madi in japan. it was one of the very first cdis and was originally introduced on the krr serpico. now the question is so what?? and the answer is krr serpico has a horsepower of 40 where as our krr zx is only 31.haha. so where u think the added horsepower come from. one of the reason is their cdi and hence the search for the cdi continues.hahaha

 

that cdi has a better power curve. mean for our normal cdi the peak power is 31hp at 10500. for serpico cdi its 40 hp at 11000rpm. from this u can see that u have a longer rpm of about 500rpm since the time u open ur valve. dun think so little cause it quite makes a huge difference at goin at 200 kph. haha.also the serpico cdi has a so called better low end and mid range curve meaning ur pickup is slightly faster and ur mid range is more smooth and responsive.

 

24 to 27 i am referring to the distance u can go for a liter of petrol. so its like 24km per liter.

to find out your. top up petrol full tank, reset your meter by turning the knob at the side of the meter on the left.then ride till u hit reserve without opening your valve to get the most accurate reading.see the meter readying is show what. then divide by 10.5. so it u get 315 then 315km divide by 10.5L u get 30km per liter. and tts a superb mileage.haha

 

 

haha. actually can improve slightly.

if u dun whack then u can lower the jet one size so a little leaner.

get a good coolant to keep temperature low then remove unnecessary stuffs and all.

importantly your tyre pressure plays a big part.

pump air to stock pressure if u below 90 and if over 90 then pump the pillion weight pressure.

then dun always pump full tank. carry extra half tank petrol everywhere u go for what? carry petrol only to waste petrol carrying it. haha.

 

one last and important thing . workout and fc auto decrease.haha... just kidding. no offence at all bro. everyone healthy live long and happy.

sur...no problem!

mine japan cdi 1523,not denso1454

Posted
one jet lower? You mean 260 or 22.5?

 

Btw, I can't afford to lower to 260 (temp always high)

22.5 tested, bike wun start with too little air.. (kick 20 times lor)..

 

Coolant is the best = engine ice..

Tyre pressure is 41PSI at the back and 35 PSI infront.. normally I put 2 more PSI because air will leak everytime we pull out.. :)

 

hmm.. I cannot let my tank go below 1/2 lei.. *tank rusty.. whahaha..

 

Workout = cannot because back issues.. swimming sometimes.. (going back to be weekly soon..) ;)

no worries.. :)

 

may b try lower needle 1/2 click.but pickup abit slow

b4 stock block 250/27.5air=308km..one kick start

after not stock block 250/27.5air=210-220km..one kick start

now 250/25air=280-290km..but must on choke start-(

Posted
haha!

in this world got many this type of ppl wan!

hahaha!

this mean i too sensitive

a sign of getting old liao!!

hahaha

 

haha.. no lah.. sensitive is good and bad.. I'm sensitive when first time meeting up with new people also.. *scare I tio eaten up.. whahaha!

 

sur...no problem!

mine japan cdi 1523,not denso1454

 

Alvin.. CDI really makes a diff? & where to find sia.. all CDI no power cut seems like very old liaoz lei..

 

may b try lower needle 1/2 click.but pickup abit slow

b4 stock block 250/27.5air=308km..one kick start

after not stock block 250/27.5air=210-220km..one kick start

now 250/25air=280-290km..but must on choke start-(

 

hmm.. the main thing is 250 for yours wor..*maybe cannot open the slider liaoz.. whahhaa..

*Bike shop ask me change carb.. say the "part" where the slider move might have been "opened" thus bigger FC and etc..

*pocket pain! :(

 

Want to ask.. coolant is already Engine ice.. but temp always go up after 2 traffic light.. around 1/4 close to 1/2...

Block new, gear new.. everything internal new sia.. cannot think of why liaoz.. Fuel I maintain 270 cuz scare overheat.. :(

Normally, rev until RPM 6 den change gear.. gear 1 maybe around RPM 5.. but the rest is RPM 6.. Temp will maintain around slightly 1~3mm above the blue line.. can see white line liaoz.. Stop for 30min, on back engine.. Temp still "touch" inbetween blue/white line..

Radiotor also new one.. Can't think of any other possibilities.. :(

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted
one jet lower? You mean 260 or 22.5?

 

Btw, I can't afford to lower to 260 (temp always high)

22.5 tested, bike wun start with too little air.. (kick 20 times lor)..

 

Coolant is the best = engine ice..

Tyre pressure is 41PSI at the back and 35 PSI infront.. normally I put 2 more PSI because air will leak everytime we pull out.. :)

 

hmm.. I cannot let my tank go below 1/2 lei.. *tank rusty.. whahaha..

 

Workout = cannot because back issues.. swimming sometimes.. (going back to be weekly soon..) ;)

no worries.. :)

from ur post below i see ur temp reading is ok leh. mine always is between 1/4 and 1/2 thats the norm bro. after i whack made then will be very close to 1/2 once i stuck in customs for 2 hours. tts the only time my temp go up till 3/4 plus plus near high. temp gauge is 1/2 is perfectly normal. and also japanese manufactures got this habit of jetting there carbs a lil on the rich side. this is shown during you inspection. it will show around 5 % for stock bike. mine i tune till 2%. that means i bike is just off the perfect balance by 2 %.also try radiator wash then use engine ice should have no problem.

 

tyre pressure tot krr is only 22 and 25 leh. so high meh. i remeber seeing something like 20 plus only on the kawasaki stick on the swingarm near tyre. wording in thai but i see the no. i know what they talk about.

 

if got rust do acid wash loh. then buy a simple fuel line inline filter loh. those transperant one then can see if got dirt then change. malaysia sell 2 rm only.haha.

 

workout i got nothing to say other than listen to doctor advice. i have study for doctor yet. if i study then i recommend you. hahahhahaha

 

sur...no problem!

mine japan cdi 1523,not denso1454

1523 is another type which came after 1454, still better than malaysia ones but still not better than 1454 but nonetheless its good too.

 

Alvin.. CDI really makes a diff? & where to find sia.. all CDI no power cut seems like very old liaoz lei..

cdi makes a difference. the faster and more powerful your cdi can signal a spark the faster and more better the explosion in your block then more power. delayed ignition timing and weak sparks cause very bad performance

*Bike shop ask me change carb.. say the "part" where the slider move might have been "opened" thus bigger FC and etc..

*pocket pain! :(

i think he meant your carb ported. simply to say krr carb you port become like stock tzm carb.

krr is vm28ss and tzm is vm30ss.

if your carb is indeed ported than that totally explains your fc comsumption and the heat. cause stock main jet is 270 for stock bore of 28mm but ported means your bore is 29 or 30 and that means you main should increase to 280 or 290 like that. but since u using 270 it means u already running lean ready and so your bike heating up easier. but since your carb ported if u increase your jet your fc will be worser sia. best is use back original. alvin uncle has one selling cheap what. get from him la. stock jetting should be perfectly fine IF u didnt mod anything that requires a jetting.

 

Want to ask.. coolant is already Engine ice.. but temp always go up after 2 traffic light.. around 1/4 close to 1/2...

Block new, gear new.. everything internal new sia.. cannot think of why liaoz.. Fuel I maintain 270 cuz scare overheat.. :(

Normally, rev until RPM 6 den change gear.. gear 1 maybe around RPM 5.. but the rest is RPM 6.. Temp will maintain around slightly 1~3mm above the blue line.. can see white line liaoz.. Stop for 30min, on back engine.. Temp still "touch" inbetween blue/white line..

 

Radiotor also new one.. Can't think of any other possibilities.. :(

 

that is actually perfectly normal. my bike the moment cold start also above blue. blue means not ideal temp. must above blue and below 1/2 the ideal.

Posted
haha.. no lah.. sensitive is good and bad.. I'm sensitive when first time meeting up with new people also.. *scare I tio eaten up.. whahaha!

 

 

 

Alvin.. CDI really makes a diff? & where to find sia.. all CDI no power cut seems like very old liaoz lei..

 

 

 

hmm.. the main thing is 250 for yours wor..*maybe cannot open the slider liaoz.. whahhaa..

*Bike shop ask me change carb.. say the "part" where the slider move might have been "opened" thus bigger FC and etc..

*pocket pain! :(

 

Want to ask.. coolant is already Engine ice.. but temp always go up after 2 traffic light.. around 1/4 close to 1/2...

Block new, gear new.. everything internal new sia.. cannot think of why liaoz.. Fuel I maintain 270 cuz scare overheat.. :(

Normally, rev until RPM 6 den change gear.. gear 1 maybe around RPM 5.. but the rest is RPM 6.. Temp will maintain around slightly 1~3mm above the blue line.. can see white line liaoz.. Stop for 30min, on back engine.. Temp still "touch" inbetween blue/white line..

Radiotor also new one.. Can't think of any other possibilities.. :(

 

I CHANGE 1 MORE airbox which only got 16 hole n now can 1 kick start liao!

 

u mean the screw on top the slider?

i got 1 stock also got this problem

n i open till spoilt!!

 

my temp never over blue when riding

only above white when traffic jam

go to 1/2 when keepp high rev at station.

 

i experience temp heat up fast b4 on my LC125

coolant pump spoilt n block gasket got leak(cos use only 1pc instead of whole gasket n apply glue not perfect)

but your case..all new n overhaul..Radiotor new...after ask ah chong n let me know

i want to learn 1 more thing...

 

###may b need to change RIDER or change new girl pillion-)(this is joking)

Posted

my bike always have to open choke den can start. is it normal for kr?

Yamaha Supreme X1 - April 2011 till September 2011

Kawasaki KRR ZX150 - September 2011 till August 2012

CB400 VTEC II - August 2012 - Current

 

"I Don't Ride Fast, I Fly Low"

Posted
from ur post below i see ur temp reading is ok leh. mine always is between 1/4 and 1/2 thats the norm bro. after i whack made then will be very close to 1/2 once i stuck in customs for 2 hours. tts the only time my temp go up till 3/4 plus plus near high. temp gauge is 1/2 is perfectly normal. and also japanese manufactures got this habit of jetting there carbs a lil on the rich side. this is shown during you inspection. it will show around 5 % for stock bike. mine i tune till 2%. that means i bike is just off the perfect balance by 2 %.also try radiator wash then use engine ice should have no problem.

 

tyre pressure tot krr is only 22 and 25 leh. so high meh. i remeber seeing something like 20 plus only on the kawasaki stick on the swingarm near tyre. wording in thai but i see the no. i know what they talk about.

 

if got rust do acid wash loh. then buy a simple fuel line inline filter loh. those transperant one then can see if got dirt then change. malaysia sell 2 rm only.haha.

 

workout i got nothing to say other than listen to doctor advice. i have study for doctor yet. if i study then i recommend you. hahahhahaha

 

 

1523 is another type which came after 1454, still better than malaysia ones but still not better than 1454 but nonetheless its good too.

 

haha.. ok lor.. *I never port.. full stock except carb change jets only.. :)

 

I CHANGE 1 MORE airbox which only got 16 hole n now can 1 kick start liao!

 

u mean the screw on top the slider?

i got 1 stock also got this problem

n i open till spoilt!!

 

my temp never over blue when riding

only above white when traffic jam

go to 1/2 when keepp high rev at station.

 

i experience temp heat up fast b4 on my LC125

coolant pump spoilt n block gasket got leak(cos use only 1pc instead of whole gasket n apply glue not perfect)

but your case..all new n overhaul..Radiotor new...after ask ah chong n let me know

i want to learn 1 more thing...

 

###may b need to change RIDER or change new girl pillion-)(this is joking)

 

haha..

ya.. correct..

Shoick lor.. maybe weight + box + etc etc.. haha..

*ask ah chiong liao but he say Normal la.. Lol.. i change close to everything.. haixx.. sianz..

Maybe change rider.. whahaha.. Pillion small size lei.. It's rider who is big size.. :p

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted
haha.. ok lor.. *I never port.. full stock except carb change jets only.. :)

when i mean your carb ported i am actually referring to what the mechanic say as the part where the slide move open bigger. so that means air will go in more. like u make the big hole in the carb even bigger.

Posted
when i mean your carb ported i am actually referring to what the mechanic say as the part where the slide move open bigger. so that means air will go in more. like u make the big hole in the carb even bigger.

 

haha.. that means every old bike will like this de.. because all will slowly "auto" port.. haha~~

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted
haha.. that means every old bike will like this de.. because all will slowly "auto" port.. haha~~

 

emaybe hor. cause my previous carb the slider damaged. like got a circle image on the slider cause of air "hitting" the go polish slider, polish become damn shiny but become smaller. lucky it didnt affect the performance much.

Posted
emaybe hor. cause my previous carb the slider damaged. like got a circle image on the slider cause of air "hitting" the go polish slider, polish become damn shiny but become smaller. lucky it didnt affect the performance much.

 

ok.. I think mine has problem liaoz.. Time to change carb.. whahha.. *$$$ flying off again... =(

Kindly read thru at least the intro section first before decide to post any comments.... thanks... :cool:

 

Please proceed to this website/web link if you guys have any technical issues on Kawasaki Kips/KR150, I'll update the 1st POST as and when there's a new question. Newbies questions on the top as well. :)

 

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6285055#post6285055

Posted
ok.. I think mine has problem liaoz.. Time to change carb.. whahha.. *$$$ flying off again... =(

 

carb not so ex what. just get alvin carb then use the best parts of both carb and u got a gd carb ready. cheap and gd solution

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