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Posted
Thanks for your information bros, i am particularly concern about thread life, from what i read, M3 is very sticky but the thread life is extremely short, some say it only last 4000km, how about M5? is the thread life better?

 

I have used for abt 8000km. Still gpin well

2005 aug - 2006 oct - Wave 125s FV4517M

2006 nov - 2007 jan - Super 4 Version s FP7529R

2007 jan - 2007 sept -spark 135 FBA3986G

2007 sep - 2010 apr - Honda XR400Sm FQ2901B

- Yamaha FZ150I

2010 apr - ????????? -Honda CB400 Spec I.III

-Yamaha FZ150I

Posted
I wld suggest Ah pek's coolant too. From experience it's effective and furthermore at a more reasonable price.

 

cant believe someone chose to believe on some no-research, no-race history, self concocted coolant over race-proven brands like Engine Ice, Coolaide or Waterwetter..

 

it's your money, your bike..

 

Thanks for your information bros, i am particularly concern about thread life, from what i read, M3 is very sticky but the thread life is extremely short, some say it only last 4000km, how about M5? is the thread life better?

 

4000KMs is about a EO change cycle.. unless your mileage is all track times, normal travelling will not finish your tyres by 4000KMs..

many factors affect tyre thread life: weight of rider, weight of bike, tyre pressure, distance travelled, weather, road condition, purpose of usage, etc etc..

 

on average, a rear tyre on a CB400 should last abt 6-8months..

 

tyres that lasts long are hard and dangerous during wet weathers or even on dry roads..

you cant have best of both worlds, either it's lasting and slippery or sticky and short-lived..

Posted
cant believe someone chose to believe on some no-research, no-race history, self concocted coolant over race-proven brands like Engine Ice, Coolaide or Waterwetter..

 

it's your money, your bike..

 

ah pek's EO is no doubt self concocted, but its been used by many and proven to be very smooth and durable oil than other brands..

 

as for the coolant, its not self concocted but high performance coolant used on cars. it may or may not be overkill on bike, but y not since it maybe more effective than cheap ones.. jus that if you have spare cash to spare!

Posted
guys can the shaky clutch housing be repaired or do we need to change the whole housing i stop the vibrating sound? if can be repaired, any idea how much it cost?

 

Check out the clutch thread...all ur answers is there

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n74/outspoken_69/newsignature2.jpg

I wanted to change the world. But I have found that the only thing one can be sure of changing is oneself.

Posted
Hi, I used M1 previously and currently using M3 cos had some offer that time. I wld say the grip is good even on wet weather:)

I have used engine ice before. Personally I think it's just a waste a money bro. Initially feels shiok after a while the effect gone and that's like very fast. I wld suggest Ah pek's coolant too. From experience it's effective and furthermore at a more reasonable price.

Anw, just to share my experience with unique too. After reading all ur comments abt them I realised that I too might have been 'kenna chop'... Cos so far I have changed my tyres twice with them and both time they told me my bearings have cracked and must be replaced... if not wld affect my rims and the cost of that later will be even more expensive. Personally bros, one mech shop that I will trust in terms of price and service is Ah Fook Motors and am saying this from personal experience ofcos as I do most of my stuff there;)

 

Any shops u guys wld recommend to

Change tyres? And also what aftermarket brakehose will u reccomend? Was thinking of HEL and heard currently there is a new one called STAR if am not wrong.Cheers!:)

 

Ups for Ah Fook motor...very honest guy but too bad his shop is a small one so couldnt get much accessories but for servicing...sure to look for him...

 

Star is only available at Unique...HEL is good enuf....i changeout at HL Cycle...behind Unique...same price and can go for foam wash at half price after that...

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n74/outspoken_69/newsignature2.jpg

I wanted to change the world. But I have found that the only thing one can be sure of changing is oneself.

Posted

which shop provide good service and cheap engine oil?? i want to try motul or maxima...

:thumb: :thumb:

RxZ FR 89..J [Aug2007-Dec07]

CB400 Vtec 1 FU 24..E [sept08-Nov09]

CB400 Vtec 1 FT 14..R [July10-???]

Posted
ah pek's EO is no doubt self concocted, but its been used by many and proven to be very smooth and durable oil than other brands..

 

as for the coolant, its not self concocted but high performance coolant used on cars. it may or may not be overkill on bike, but y not since it maybe more effective than cheap ones.. jus that if you have spare cash to spare!

 

lets just not start a war,he either have knowledge on chemistry or he doesnt,either way,to each their own.

 

to clear doubts on others who wants to try but really kookoo on engineering,ah pek is not just using any self concocted EOs,its just good brand EOs he's using on top of additive of some brand which im not going to reveal out of respect.EOs are jst trial and error thing that depends on ur engine,some engine may have effect while some may not,so u try once,if not ok then just use normal EO,if good then go to him again.dont worry he wont dare destroy ur engine as he change the eo himself at his void deck..anything can find him there.

 

about the coolant he used,if i recalled,vaguely however,he's using some car coolant and its BMW's one..im not sure.but i heard BMW..i forgot..

 

trusting blindly is bad,neither it is good to distrust someone solely on pre-judgement assumptions without weighing some pros and cons.

either way is unfair n unjust.some familiar brand also may not be good to our bike..so yeah..just ask around and/or research..

 

just pls dont try to bring others down..with the exception of bikeshops.heh heh

NSR SP Dec 07

RXZ Feb Mar 08

Spark May July 08

RXZ July-Nov 08-09

X1 Dec - June 10

XR4 June Aug 10

RXZ Aug - Jan 10 - 11

S4 Feb 11- Mar 12

125z Mar 12 - ??

Posted

oh blurcock..im not pointing out on u..just adding on top of ur reply..

NSR SP Dec 07

RXZ Feb Mar 08

Spark May July 08

RXZ July-Nov 08-09

X1 Dec - June 10

XR4 June Aug 10

RXZ Aug - Jan 10 - 11

S4 Feb 11- Mar 12

125z Mar 12 - ??

Posted
cant believe someone chose to believe on some no-research, no-race history, self concocted coolant over race-proven brands like Engine Ice, Coolaide or Waterwetter..

 

it's your money, your bike..

 

 

 

4000KMs is about a EO change cycle.. unless your mileage is all track times, normal travelling will not finish your tyres by 4000KMs..

many factors affect tyre thread life: weight of rider, weight of bike, tyre pressure, distance travelled, weather, road condition, purpose of usage, etc etc..

 

on average, a rear tyre on a CB400 should last abt 6-8months..

 

tyres that lasts long are hard and dangerous during wet weathers or even on dry roads..

you cant have best of both worlds, either it's lasting and slippery or sticky and short-lived..

 

Excuse me...where did u ever get the information that the coolant I recommended for the average Joe is self self concocted coolant?

 

What makes u think race-proven brands like Engine Ice, Coolaide or Waterwetter works for everyone? I read and hear enough about others using them too but did not work for them as it claims it works for u or similar model of bikes. And in the first place..does everyone need to use race proven coolant on a day to day commuter bike cooling system? I tried them all and its not my preference and as you claimed.

 

What makes you think so what u using are the same type of coolant in specification that is use in the races beside brand names?

 

Just leave ppl to thier own choice and stay with what they had used before and they like..just like you with ur race-proven brands like Engine Ice, Coolaide or Waterwetter..

Stupid Hurts!.:giddy:Speed doesn't kill, mistakes does :faint:

BEER!...it's cheaper than fuel now! DRINK!..DON'T RIDE!

Posted
u can try planetmotor or sengkwang.But if u got the cash go sengkwang do,u even can make your exhaust point slightly upwards =)

 

Thanks for the info koxie. By making my exhaust point slightly upwards lke cool man.

"Bikes don't leak oil, they mark their territory"...

Posted
Hi, I used M1 previously and currently using M3 cos had some offer that time. I wld say the grip is good even on wet weather:)

 

Anw, just to share my experience with unique too. After reading all ur comments abt them I realised that I too might have been 'kenna chop'... Cos so far I have changed my tyres twice with them and both time they told me my bearings have cracked and must be replaced

 

Was thinking of HEL and heard currently there is a new one called STAR if am not wrong.Cheers!:)

 

how about M5? is the thread life better?

 

M5 grip is even way better than M3.

 

regarding changing of the bearings, should check the bearings urself, no problem no change.

maybe ur riding condition too rough thus damaged the bearings? So far mine no problem and nobody ask me to change when i changing tires.

 

I using STAR brake hose, quite nice, cheaper than HEL and more colours to choose from, it's still a steel braided hose afterall

Yamaha RXZ, Kawasaki ZX KR150, Yamaha Spark135, Honda CB400 REVO NC42, Suzuki DRZ400SMK8, Aprilia RS125, Suzuki GSXR600K9, Honda RS150R

Click on the bike models for Information/Servicing/Maintenance on Kawasaki KR150, Honda CB400 Revo, Suzuki DRZ400SM and Suzuki GSXR

 

Facebook HONDA CB400 REVO

 

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Posted
cant believe someone chose to believe on some no-research, no-race history, self concocted coolant over race-proven brands like Engine Ice, Coolaide or Waterwetter..

 

it's your money, your bike..

 

 

 

Hi, thanks for ur concern. Personally i believe branding are all for marketing purposes and just cause they are being used in races that doesnt mean that they are best for everyday usage too. Anyways my bike performs great under his EO and Coolant so like u said its my money and my bike ;i am happy that way. No offense. Cheers!

:shades: CBR 1000rr:{12-??} :shades:
Posted
M5 grip is even way better than M3.

 

regarding changing of the bearings, should check the bearings urself, no problem no change.

maybe ur riding condition too rough thus damaged the bearings? So far mine no problem and nobody ask me to change when i changing tires.

 

I using STAR brake hose, quite nice, cheaper than HEL and more colours to choose from, it's still a steel braided hose afterall

 

Yup i also guess so perhaps should be gentler when approaching humps in the future..lol...ya heard from my friends' too that M5 is good as well.

 

Ok thanks bro, i would then choose between HEL and STAR since both equally performs:)

:shades: CBR 1000rr:{12-??} :shades:
Posted
Ups for Ah Fook motor...very honest guy but too bad his shop is a small one so couldnt get much accessories but for servicing...sure to look for him...

 

Star is only available at Unique...HEL is good enuf....i changeout at HL Cycle...behind Unique...same price and can go for foam wash at half price after that...

 

Yup agree that he's a honest guy bro which explains my repeated visits. Cos i normally before changing any parts will check the prices in alot of shops and realised that Ah Fook's prices are cheaper for the parts as well as labor.

 

Ok thanks for the info on brake hoses. Noted with Thanks:)

:shades: CBR 1000rr:{12-??} :shades:
Posted

Hey guys just I just got a Vtec 3 and I am very happy(my first 2A bike). However there's something bothering me. Posted this in the carburetor thread but nobody seem to go there so here goes:

 

My idling does not seem very stable. I can understand from a cold start the idling might not be so smooth. And true enough once the engine heats up the idling seems more constant and smooth. However at low rev just above idle the engine seems to be "pulsating" if you know what I am talking about. I can hear the engine seems to be going up and down and I can feel the vibration not being constant. It's very noticeable, and it sounds like when the engine is going to stall. This happens around 1500 to 2000rpm. So on 2nd gear for example in a carpark looking for parking space at low speed, my bike would keep jerking.

 

Anybody have any idea if this is normal or is there a problem with the carbs tuning or sync? Because if it's normal I don't want to waste $200 to $300 to wash and tune my carbs, and also I've tried some other super 4s when looking around after I passed my 2A and it seems to be common.

 

Also, anyone know if it's easy to remove the headers from the bike? I need to remove my stainless steel headers and give it a thorough polish. If anyone have a spec 3 workshop manual can pass to me?

Posted
Hey guys just I just got a Vtec 3 and I am very happy(my first 2A bike). However there's something bothering me. Posted this in the carburetor thread but nobody seem to go there so here goes:

 

My idling does not seem very stable. I can understand from a cold start the idling might not be so smooth. And true enough once the engine heats up the idling seems more constant and smooth. However at low rev just above idle the engine seems to be "pulsating" if you know what I am talking about. I can hear the engine seems to be going up and down and I can feel the vibration not being constant. It's very noticeable, and it sounds like when the engine is going to stall. This happens around 1500 to 2000rpm. So on 2nd gear for example in a carpark looking for parking space at low speed, my bike would keep jerking.

 

Anybody have any idea if this is normal or is there a problem with the carbs tuning or sync? Because if it's normal I don't want to waste $200 to $300 to wash and tune my carbs, and also I've tried some other super 4s when looking around after I passed my 2A and it seems to be common.

 

Also, anyone know if it's easy to remove the headers from the bike? I need to remove my stainless steel headers and give it a thorough polish. If anyone have a spec 3 workshop manual can pass to me?

 

bro,not sure if am right.but i think it quite common for a s4 to be like that?casue my old spec3(FBA) during low rpm throttle,the bike also like jerking/like go no go type.But after i install Pivot volt stabilizer and groudning,it help somehow.Yes it easy to remove the header.

http://img600.imageshack.us/img600/2353/85571635.png
Posted

hey peeps.. any recommendation which shop for CB400 top service (valve clearance, timing chain etc). Cuz got read before shops never do a gd job. Btw... Roughly what would d cost be?

Apr 2006 - Oct 2009: Yamaha RXZ 135 (FS 3*** E)

Oct 2009 - CURRENT: CB400 Spec 1 (FT 7*** J)

Posted
hey peeps.. any recommendation which shop for CB400 top service (valve clearance, timing chain etc). Cuz got read before shops never do a gd job. Btw... Roughly what would d cost be?

 

Wat happen to ur bike. Fpr this, u cn go to unique thread and see d price. Tt should be d standard price for u to gauge arpund

2005 aug - 2006 oct - Wave 125s FV4517M

2006 nov - 2007 jan - Super 4 Version s FP7529R

2007 jan - 2007 sept -spark 135 FBA3986G

2007 sep - 2010 apr - Honda XR400Sm FQ2901B

- Yamaha FZ150I

2010 apr - ????????? -Honda CB400 Spec I.III

-Yamaha FZ150I

Posted

erm my bike alrdy reached 105K le. tink its time fr a top svc liao. moreover everytime start engine will haf that 'tick tick tick' sound. so was looking ard fr a reliable shop that does top svc fr cb400.

Apr 2006 - Oct 2009: Yamaha RXZ 135 (FS 3*** E)

Oct 2009 - CURRENT: CB400 Spec 1 (FT 7*** J)

Posted
erm my bike alrdy reached 105K le. tink its time fr a top svc liao. moreover everytime start engine will haf that 'tick tick tick' sound. so was looking ard fr a reliable shop that does top svc fr cb400.

 

D tick tick tick soud is d shims. Ters no damag to d engine for tt. Maybe ah pek can advise u whether it is needed on tt??

2005 aug - 2006 oct - Wave 125s FV4517M

2006 nov - 2007 jan - Super 4 Version s FP7529R

2007 jan - 2007 sept -spark 135 FBA3986G

2007 sep - 2010 apr - Honda XR400Sm FQ2901B

- Yamaha FZ150I

2010 apr - ????????? -Honda CB400 Spec I.III

-Yamaha FZ150I

Posted
D tick tick tick soud is d shims. Ters no damag to d engine for tt. Maybe ah pek can advise u whether it is needed on tt??

 

i see. well if nt needed to do top svc, i'm more than happy. haha. but i did ask ard and did some read up on this forum, a lot of ppl mentioned based on my mileage and that ticking sound problem, i was advised to go fr a top svc.

Apr 2006 - Oct 2009: Yamaha RXZ 135 (FS 3*** E)

Oct 2009 - CURRENT: CB400 Spec 1 (FT 7*** J)

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