Kawasaki KRR150 Riders

adesmond2 · June 14, 2011

Try to pump in more air and see your fc.

Anyway, I have the same case as you last time. My fc drop till 20km/litre. I tried:

1. Pump tyres 230kpa each.
2. Service carburator and change smaller jetting than stock
3. Full service

Nothing work because my block is old and got minor scratches. So compression gone. So I changed block and piston.($650) total. FC shoot up to 28-34km/litre. My advice is maybe u try full service(to see if your block is old and got scratches) or piston ring wear out(piston ring have an impact on fc when I read online). During full service, also ask them change to stock setting if your's is not stock. (Main 270 pilot 22.5). After full service, see if your FC improved. If never improve, standby $650, contact me we go change block and piston. Hahaha.

bro.. got a HUGE question for you.. After you change block..

What's the main difference? Compression accurate, how about the speed/pick up? better?

*I full service every 6 months and FC still around there.. not much of a diff.. BUT.. 3 years ago when i first got my bike.. FC WAS 34km/L..

-JueLz- · June 14, 2011

Anybody knows if there is any on-site mechanic i can call to change my snapped clutch cable? My krr is now stuck at gleneagles hopsital. Please text me number at 90162281. Thanks guys.

bukitmerah · June 14, 2011

Try to pump in more air and see your fc.

Anyway, I have the same case as you last time. My fc drop till 20km/litre. I tried:

1. Pump tyres 230kpa each.
2. Service carburator and change smaller jetting than stock
3. Full service

Nothing work because my block is old and got minor scratches. So compression gone. So I changed block and piston.($650) total. FC shoot up to 28-34km/litre. My advice is maybe u try full service(to see if your block is old and got scratches) or piston ring wear out(piston ring have an impact on fc when I read online). During full service, also ask them change to stock setting if your's is not stock. (Main 270 pilot 22.5). After full service, see if your FC improved. If never improve, standby $650, contact me we go change block and piston. Hahaha.

THANKS A LOT TO ALL OF YOU GUYS ( Ice..., desmond, SparkerS1, gutripper, Eno ) for replying.

See i got same case as desmond, when i first got my bike 3 months ago, my FC = 35km/L ! Now after 3 months, "suddenly" sink to 25 that is why i "blur" already.

thanks a lot for the info i learned here. as for the change, now no money yet, so i will "tolerate" FC until my 1st full service probably at nov ( before annual inspection ). will probably change a pair of tyres then. got to really save up 1st lah! ( change block & piston very ex leh )

still can't multi-quote, so i will reply 1 by 1 here,

gutripper, thanks, i think i will increase to 30 front & 31 rear, my present pressure ( 29 front & 30 rear ) feels a bit too slow on long highways. i will increase gradually till i feel comfortable. maybe i use softer now since my front not exactly "new".

SparkerS1, what pressure will you recommend then for 90/80 front & 110/70 rear then? will like to hear your views as you are more experienced. my weight is 75kg & i normally carry a 8kg tools bag to work ( tied to fuel tank )

desmond, didn't know box make such a big difference. But as i never have pillion whereas you pillion everyday, of course got difference mah! as for you typed 110/80 where the 80mm is higher than my 110/70 by 10mm, right? or is there something i dunno?

Edited June 14, 2011 by bukitmerah

adesmond2 · June 14, 2011

THANKS A LOT TO ALL OF YOU GUYS ( Ice..., desmond, SparkerS1, gutripper, Eno ) for replying.

See i got same case as desmond, when i first got my bike 3 months ago, my FC = 35km/L ! Now after 3 months, "suddenly" sink to 25 that is why i "blur" already.

thanks a lot for the info i learned here. as for the change, now no money yet, so i will "tolerate" FC until my 1st full service probably at nov ( before
annual inspection ). will probably change a pair of tyres then.

still can't multi-quote, so i will reply 1 by 1 here,

gutripper, thanks, i think i will increase to 30 front & 31 rear, my present pressure ( 29 front & 30 rear ) feels a bit too slow on long highways. i will increase gradually till i feel comfortable. maybe i use softer now since my front not exactly "new".

SparkerS1, what pressure will you recommend then for 90/80 front & 110/70 rear then? will like to hear your views as you are more experienced.

desmond, didn't know box make such a big difference. But as i never have pillion whereas you pillion everyday, of course got difference mah! as for you typed 110/80 where the 80mm is higher than my 110/70 by 10mm, right, or is there something i dunno?

ohh.. sorry.. it's 110 something.. whaha...

bukitmerah · June 14, 2011

lolx.. 20mm bro.. maybe you can try one day and pump and see if you like anot..
corner not really slow lei.. i can "touch" the floor with my fairing.. LOL.. my fairing did kanna scratch before one time and i never go that low ever since that day..LOL..

FC wise.. yup.. weight + all the stuff i got + pillion everyday + box + etc etc.. whahhaa...

took out my box once.. and waha! 24km/L...

1) maybe my arms are not as strong as yours but i like the "softer" touch feeling better, i can "feel" the road & traction better, respond to the bike a bit quicker. it feels lighter & more agile. Stopping feels more confident too. However, i have to probably lose a bit of FC & top speed & acceleration. A bit too slow on highways but very good in traffic jam & wet slippery roads.

Edit: i guess tyres will wear out faster too, harder tyres tend to last longer i "think" ( anybody can rebut me if i am wrong on this )

2) i may be wrong on this ( any experts out there who can correct me ? ) but my opinion is i think a rider is faster by keeping the bike more upright, leaning over actually slows you down i "think". i suspect ( any experts? ) the racers on TV go so low to slow down as much as they can to FORCE the bike round the corner as they have braked too late ( which is GOOD in racing as you want to brake as late as you can ). in the real world roads, i ( maybe only me ) tend to go slow early into the corner hence it is not needed for me to "knee down" go low, as i feel i can go faster by accelerating through the corner safely & more upright. however my "style" may lead to slow lap times on the track ( due to slowing down too early ) which is why i believe the racers go down.

racers i believe, want to go as fast as they can for as long as they can on the straights, brake as LATE as they dared before the corners, go down & force their bike by slowing down round the corner, hit the apex of the curve, exit as soon as they can by getting upright & FLY off the curve as EARLY as possible.

3) as for me, i am more concerned about safety, so i never need to go that low, however when my tyres were too hard, my bike becomes a bit too upright, too fast & wants to zoom off the curve in a straight line, so i end up slowing down too much to corner. besides the sharp corners may have "spillage" or cars braking suddenly in front so it is not very advisable to go so low. keeping it upright may be slower but at least there is more traction & i can emergency brake without toppling ( common even with pros but racers don't care, they are paid to take risks , win at all costs not finish last safely )

Edited June 14, 2011 by bukitmerah
edit 1) & 2) & 3)

ahwee888 · June 14, 2011

hi bro n sis. saw a few videos on youtube about krr outing. would like to ask is there any up coming outing?

simon85 · June 14, 2011

Currently using 33 front/ 40 rear.

bro.. u mean 33 and 40 is in PSI unit?

adesmond2 · June 14, 2011

1) maybe my arms are not as strong as yours but i like the "softer" touch feeling better, i can "feel" the road & traction better, respond to the bike a bit quicker. it feels lighter & more agile. Stopping feels more confident too. However, i have to probably lose a bit of FC & top speed & acceleration. A bit too slow on highways but very good in traffic jam & wet slippery roads.

Edit: i guess tyres will wear out faster too, harder tyres tend to last longer i "think" ( anybody can rebut me if i am wrong on this )

2) i may be wrong on this ( any experts out there who can correct me ? ) but my opinion is i think a rider is faster by keeping the bike more upright, leaning over actually slows you down i "think". i suspect ( any experts? ) the racers on TV go so low to slow down as much as they can to FORCE the bike round the corner as they have braked too late ( which is GOOD in racing as you want to brake as late as you can ). in the real world roads, i ( maybe only me ) tend to go slow early into the corner hence it is not needed for me to "knee down" go low, as i feel i can go faster by accelerating through the corner safely & more upright. however my "style" may lead to slow lap times on the track ( due to slowing down too early ) which is why i believe the racers go down.

racers i believe, want to go as fast as they can for as long as they can on the straights, brake as LATE as they dared before the corners, go down & force their bike by slowing down round the corner, hit the apex of the curve, exit as soon as they can by getting upright & FLY off the curve as EARLY as possible.

3) as for me, i am more concerned about safety, so i never need to go that low, however when my tyres were too hard, my bike becomes a bit too upright, too fast & wants to zoom off the curve in a straight line, so i end up slowing down too much to corner. besides the sharp corners may have "spillage" or cars braking suddenly in front so it is not very advisable to go so low. keeping it upright may be slower but at least there is more traction & i can emergency brake without toppling ( common even with pros but racers don't care, they are paid to take risks , win at all costs not finish last safely )

yo bro.. very long sia.. whahaha...

1) Arms wise.. maybe? but sometimes we use counter steering? the bike turning left but you keep your body straight? *emergency cornering as maybe short of abit more to complete that turn and etc.. N yup.. lesser air did grip the tyres better but.. I normally dun really "think" so much for grips as the % of braking infront and behind, for my bike, I've gotten used to it.. I know exactly how much more before my wheel lock and skid and etc.. but than again.

2) leaning does slow you down, but to maintain, keep your rev maintain.. if you wan to speed up during corner, go in with high rev + brake if you scare.. *I'm not a racer but aga aga..

3) same.. after 1 incident of scratch fairing.. scare liaoz.. lolx..

hi bro n sis. saw a few videos on youtube about krr outing. would like to ask is there any up coming outing?

lolx.. soon.. waiting for icekipz or anyone..

bro.. u mean 33 and 40 is in PSI unit?

yup yup.. that's PSI..

Edited June 14, 2011 by adesmond2

bukitmerah · June 14, 2011

yo bro.. very long sia.. whahaha...

1) Arms wise.. maybe? but sometimes we use counter steering? the bike turning left but you keep your body straight? *emergency cornering as maybe short of abit more to complete that turn and etc.. N yup.. lesser air did grip the tyres better but.. I normally dun really "think" so much for grips as the % of braking infront and behind, for my bike, I've gotten used to it.. I know exactly how much more before my wheel lock and skid and etc.. but than again.

2) leaning does slow you down, but to maintain, keep your rev maintain.. if you wan to speed up during corner, go in with high rev + brake if you scare.. *I'm not a racer but aga aga..

3) same.. after 1 incident of scratch fairing.. scare liaoz.. lolx..

lolx.. soon.. waiting for icekipz or anyone..

1) thanks again. yah, "counter-steering" useful . i actually meant i occasionally DID NOT "counter-steer" ENOUGH. So softer tyres allow me to get away with it in case i forget but harder ones are less forgiving with my mistakes.

2) lean over & rev high can go faster i know but if i suddenly brake / slow down too much while riding very "lean-over", very easy to "buang". So if i chose to go low, i got no choice but to go fast to maintain stability, less power only easy topple. More upright easier, any unexpected emergenies ( spilled oil / sand or scared drivers in front jam brake ), i got more "options".

but "slower" & less "stylo-milo" lah ! lolx!

SparkerS1 · June 14, 2011

SparkerS1, what pressure will you recommend then for 90/80 front & 110/70 rear then?

For me, last time i used 90/80 & 120/80, front 180-200kpa, rear 220-240kpa, weight is 65KG.

You can try front 180-200kpa, rear 220-250kpa, see if works for u, try Front 200kpa Rear 250kpa first

gutripper · June 14, 2011

THANKS A LOT TO ALL OF YOU GUYS ( Ice..., desmond, SparkerS1, gutripper, Eno ) for replying.

See i got same case as desmond, when i first got my bike 3 months ago, my FC = 35km/L ! Now after 3 months, "suddenly" sink to 25 that is why i "blur" already.

thanks a lot for the info i learned here. as for the change, now no money yet, so i will "tolerate" FC until my 1st full service probably at nov ( before annual inspection ). will probably change a pair of tyres then. got to really save up 1st lah! ( change block & piston very ex leh )

still can't multi-quote, so i will reply 1 by 1 here,

gutripper, thanks, i think i will increase to 30 front & 31 rear, my present pressure ( 29 front & 30 rear ) feels a bit too slow on long highways. i will increase gradually till i feel comfortable. maybe i use softer now since my front not exactly "new".

SparkerS1, what pressure will you recommend then for 90/80 front & 110/70 rear then? will like to hear your views as you are more experienced. my weight is 75kg & i normally carry a 8kg tools bag to work ( tied to fuel tank )

desmond, didn't know box make such a big difference. But as i never have pillion whereas you pillion everyday, of course got difference mah! as for you typed 110/80 where the 80mm is higher than my 110/70 by 10mm, right? or is there something i dunno?

Bro. 110/80 doesn't mean it is 80mm tire height. The second number is the aspect ratio of the tire. 110 is the tire width. 80 is the aspect ratio and that means the tire height is 80% of the width. 110/70 means the tire height is 70% of the tire width. If any experts here think I am wrong, please correct me.

bro.. u mean 33 and 40 is in PSI unit?

Yea PSI. In kpa it should be 230 front and 280 rear.

gutripper · June 14, 2011

1) maybe my arms are not as strong as yours but i like the "softer" touch feeling better, i can "feel" the road & traction better, respond to the bike a bit quicker. it feels lighter & more agile. Stopping feels more confident too. However, i have to probably lose a bit of FC & top speed & acceleration. A bit too slow on highways but very good in traffic jam & wet slippery roads.

Edit: i guess tyres will wear out faster too, harder tyres tend to last longer i "think" ( anybody can rebut me if i am wrong on this )

2) i may be wrong on this ( any experts out there who can correct me ? ) but my opinion is i think a rider is faster by keeping the bike more upright, leaning over actually slows you down i "think". i suspect ( any experts? ) the racers on TV go so low to slow down as much as they can to FORCE the bike round the corner as they have braked too late ( which is GOOD in racing as you want to brake as late as you can ). in the real world roads, i ( maybe only me ) tend to go slow early into the corner hence it is not needed for me to "knee down" go low, as i feel i can go faster by accelerating through the corner safely & more upright. however my "style" may lead to slow lap times on the track ( due to slowing down too early ) which is why i believe the racers go down.

racers i believe, want to go as fast as they can for as long as they can on the straights, brake as LATE as they dared before the corners, go down & force their bike by slowing down round the corner, hit the apex of the curve, exit as soon as they can by getting upright & FLY off the curve as EARLY as possible.

3) as for me, i am more concerned about safety, so i never need to go that low, however when my tyres were too hard, my bike becomes a bit too upright, too fast & wants to zoom off the curve in a straight line, so i end up slowing down too much to corner. besides the sharp corners may have "spillage" or cars braking suddenly in front so it is not very advisable to go so low. keeping it upright may be slower but at least there is more traction & i can emergency brake without toppling ( common even with pros but racers don't care, they are paid to take risks , win at all costs not finish last safely )

"Harder" tires last longer since a properly inflated tire has less contact with the road.

If raining or slippery, don't go so fast and brake early. Traffic jams...sometimes u need the acceleration to get out of sticky situations when lane-splitting. Your bike will not "topple" during a lean unless your tires are worn-out, road is bad, going too slow, braking hard/slowing down too much during corner, turn off throttle or its very slippery.

If you do not want to e-brake in a corner, look far ahead and see the road situation long before entering the corner and try not to follow fast behind cars into a corner....they will most likely slow down if approaching a filter lane, driver no skill in bends or another vehicle is in front of them. This is all matters of judgement, alertness and how you assess the road situation to make a wise decision. I do not think it is wise to speed into a corner or do a very low lean on unfamiliar roads.

Upright bikes go faster. But in a corner on a normal road, its faster if u lean as u don't to have to brake as much. Pro racers keep their bikes more upright but compensate by going "knee-downs". I don't think you will be doing "knee down" on a normal road riding right? Lol. Lets put it this way, if you go around a bend like the one at Yishun dam from Yishun Ave 1. You are going to lose to the guy leaning and going at 140km/hr 100% of the time if you intend to keep you bike straight without going knee-down. If you want to keep bike upright, you have to go slower or do a knee down lor. If you keep it upright and go fast without knee down....you are going straight into the kerb! So tell me....who's gonna be faster in a corner? Lean or no lean? Hahahaha!

1) thanks again. yah, "counter-steering" useful . i actually meant i occasionally DID NOT "counter-steer" ENOUGH. So softer tyres allow me to get away with it in case i forget but harder ones are less forgiving with my mistakes.

2) lean over & rev high can go faster i know but if i suddenly brake / slow down too much while riding very "lean-over", very easy to "buang". So if i chose to go low, i got no choice but to go fast to maintain stability, less power only easy topple. More upright easier, any unexpected emergenies ( spilled oil / sand or scared drivers in front jam brake ), i got more "options".
but "slower" & less "stylo-milo" lah ! lolx!

1) I do not think that is counter-steering.

2) Thats why you shouldn't be caught in a situation where you have to e-brake in a corner or go low on unfamiliar stretches of road. I only play for fun on empty and familiar roads.

gutripper · June 14, 2011

yo bro.. very long sia.. whahaha...

1) Arms wise.. maybe? but sometimes we use counter steering? the bike turning left but you keep your body straight? *emergency cornering as maybe short of abit more to complete that turn and etc..

I don't think thats counter-steering lol.

bukitmerah · June 14, 2011

"Harder" tires last longer since a properly inflated tire has less contact with the road.

If raining or slippery, don't go so fast and brake early. Traffic jams...sometimes u need the acceleration to get out of sticky situations when lane-splitting. Your bike will not "topple" during a lean unless your tires are worn-out, road is bad, going too slow, braking hard/slowing down too much during corner, turn off throttle or its very slippery.

If you do not want to e-brake in a corner, look far ahead and see the road situation long before entering the corner and try not to follow fast behind cars into a corner....they will most likely slow down if approaching a filter lane, driver no skill in bends or another vehicle is in front of them. This is all matters of judgement, alertness and how you assess the road situation to make a wise decision. I do not think it is wise to speed into a corner or do a very low lean on unfamiliar roads.

Upright bikes go faster. But in a corner on a normal road, its faster if u lean as u don't to have to brake as much. Pro racers keep their bikes more upright but compensate by going "knee-downs". I don't think you will be doing "knee down" on a normal road riding right? Lol. Lets put it this way, if you go around a bend like the one at Yishun dam from Yishun Ave 1. You are going to lose to the guy leaning and going at 140km/hr 100% of the time if you intend to keep you bike straight without going knee-down. If you want to keep bike upright, you have to go slower or do a knee down lor. If you keep it upright and go fast without knee down....you are going straight into the kerb! So tell me....who's gonna be faster in a corner? Lean or no lean? Hahahaha!

1) I do not think that is counter-steering.

2) Thats why you shouldn't be caught in a situation where you have to e-brake in a corner or go low on unfamiliar stretches of road. I only play for fun on empty and familiar roads.

thanks, you seem to know more than me, i have a lot to learn from you.

1) i think desmond just "say" wrongly by mistake, but i think most of us know what he is trying to say. i believed he actually intend to meant balancing by the other hand & NOT the body, sometimes mistakes in language, lah! i think he just type wrongly...

2) thanks for clarifying the 70% thing...i had wrongly assumed 70 means 70mm in height.

3) i agree with ALL your points above about technique. all i was saying was that sometimes it may not be advisable to lean too low due to same reasons you said...slowing down suddenly & might topple ( happened to me before in the past ). btw, no offence ( please don't misunderstand me ) & i am not showing off ( you all should know i am not the boastful type by now ), in my humble opinion, the bend you mentioned for example isn't exactly a sharp "slow" bend, it should be considered a "fast" curve. the difference is only who is faster ( which i am not interested in winning ) but probably not "dangerously-slow-enough-for-you-to-topple" bend ( might sound funny but true ) unlike some other places.

4) however thanks again for clarifying the racers thing about leaning. i have no track experience so i dunno. i just saw those guys & drew conclusions ( which i know can be wrong ) just from my own observations. i notice that even they don't "drag" their knees, they just touched for a brief moment & they get their knees up asap again.

5) thanks to SparkerS1, will try out your advice.

Edited June 14, 2011 by bukitmerah

gutripper · June 14, 2011

thanks, you seem to know more than me, i have a lot to learn from you.

1) i think desmond just "say" wrongly by mistake, but i think most of us know what he is trying to say. i believed he actually intend to meant balancing by the other hand & NOT the body, sometimes mistakes in language, lah! i think he just type wrongly...

2) thanks for clarifying the 70% thing...i had wrongly assumed 70 means 70mm in height.

3) i agree with ALL your points above about technique. all i was saying was that sometimes it may not be advisable to lean too low due to same reasons you said...slowing down suddenly & might topple ( happened to me before in the past ). btw, no offence ( please don't misunderstand me ) & i am not showing off ( you all should know i am not the boastful type by now ), in my humble opinion, the bend you mentioned for example isn't exactly a sharp "slow" bend, it should be considered a "fast" curve. the difference is only who is faster ( which i am not interested in winning ) but probably not "dangerously-slow-enough-for-you-to-topple" bend ( might sound funny but true ) unlike some other places.

4) however thanks again for clarifying the racers thing about leaning. i have no track experience so i dunno. i just saw those guys & drew conclusions ( which i know can be wrong ) just from my own observations. i notice that even they don't "drag" their knees, they just touched for a brief moment & they get their knees up asap again.

5) thanks to SparkerS1, will try out your advice.

Haha better to learn from the other pros la haha. I am just a p-plater *paiseh*. Racers do that so that their tires also get more contact surface with the track.

bukitmerah · June 14, 2011

Haha better to learn from the other pros la haha. I am just a p-plater *paiseh*. Racers do that so that their tires also get more contact surface with the track.

i already know you are a p-plater from:-1) your bike pic & 2) you once mentioned in a earlier post you got your 2b on Aug 2010.

however i do not discriminate, i can always learn from anybody. Anyway, i think only uncle Alvin & maybe SparkerS1 ( dunno ) is older than me, most of you are younger than me but i am still humble & seek advise & learning. My age does NOT make me a better rider automatically.

PS: read my signature...

Edited June 14, 2011 by bukitmerah

tik · June 15, 2011

yo. bike still available ?

yup still available.. 500 cash and carry..

I looking for krr rear seat , who selling cheap pls pm me

kr seat put on s4 ah??

Eno · June 15, 2011

bro.. got a HUGE question for you.. After you change block..
What's the main difference? Compression accurate, how about the speed/pick up? better?

*I full service every 6 months and FC still around there.. not much of a diff.. BUT.. 3 years ago when i first got my bike.. FC WAS 34km/L..

Compression how to noe accurate? Haha. All I can tell u is that engine is smoother. I don't usually pick up fast. All I can say is bike never vibrate much at high speed.

And yup, u full service every 6 months and get good fc maybe because your block still in good condition. My block was in bad condition so no matter how I full service it, it will still be bad. That's why I recommended bukitmerah to full service first then see the situation. If his fc improved, then he's lucky like u. If fc still the same or worsen, he'll be unlucky like me. Hahaha.

THANKS A LOT TO ALL OF YOU GUYS ( Ice..., desmond, SparkerS1, gutripper, Eno ) for replying.

See i got same case as desmond, when i first got my bike 3 months ago, my FC = 35km/L ! Now after 3 months, "suddenly" sink to 25 that is why i "blur" already.

thanks a lot for the info i learned here. as for the change, now no money yet, so i will "tolerate" FC until my 1st full service probably at nov ( before annual inspection ). will probably change a pair of tyres then. got to really save up 1st lah! ( change block & piston very ex leh )

34km/l down to 25km/l in 3 8months..Hmm, last time mine went down from 28km/l to 20km/l..Full service went up to 25km/k then down back to 20km/l in about 2-3 months also. Fed up.

chanster · June 15, 2011

yeow motor at amk ave 10 i did mine there

How much did you pay??

chanster · June 15, 2011

Where is your shop located at? I'm interested

haoKR · June 15, 2011

yup still available.. 500 cash and carry.

where to view

Msg me 9270 8891

ahwee888 · June 15, 2011

Hi bro n sis. Saw a few videos on youtube on krr outing. So when is the Krr outing?

Cheer

ahwee888 · June 15, 2011

ahwee888 · June 15, 2011

bukitmerah · June 15, 2011

Compression how to noe accurate? Haha. All I can tell u is that engine is smoother. I don't usually pick up fast. All I can say is bike never vibrate much at high speed.

And yup, u full service every 6 months and get good fc maybe because your block still in good condition. My block was in bad condition so no matter how I full service it, it will still be bad. That's why I recommended bukitmerah to full service first then see the situation. If his fc improved, then he's lucky like u. If fc still the same or worsen, he'll be unlucky like me. Hahaha.

34km/l down to 25km/l in 3 8months..Hmm, last time mine went down from 28km/l to 20km/l..Full service went up to 25km/k then down back to 20km/l in about 2-3 months also. Fed up.

thanks, i will go full service 1st & see how it goes...change block very ex leh !

Edited June 15, 2011 by bukitmerah

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