Kawasaki KRR150 Riders

[drak3st3r]

kawasaki-motor.co.id/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=20&Itemid=468

kawasaki.com.my/productpage.php?do=product_detail&pro_id=100&year=product_year1

 

 

the top one is the indonesian model and the bottom is malaysian which is also singapore model.

[drak3st3r]

i c...clean engine 870ml!

i normally open n let the old eo out till totally nothing cum out then i turn the bike left or right few time n wait n i proceed to do other part later then cum back n close it.

 

yeap thats a very good way

 

 

as for krr infos

 

kawasaki-motor.co.id/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=20&Itemid=468

 

kawasaki.com.my/productpage.php?do=product_detail&pro_id=100&year=product_year1

 

go to the following sites

 

the top one under ninja 150rr is the indonesian model and the bottom is malaysian which is also singapore model.

 

engine wise all same except looks and the sprocket.

hope this clears a whole lot of doubts

[tony2sg]

yeap thats a very good way

 

 

as for krr infos

 

kawasaki-motor.co.id/index.php?option=com_content&view=category&layout=blog&id=20&Itemid=468

 

kawasaki.com.my/productpage.php?do=product_detail&pro_id=100&year=product_year1

 

go to the following sites

 

the top one under ninja 150rr is the indonesian model and the bottom is malaysian which is also singapore model.

 

engine wise all same except looks and the sprocket.

hope this clears a whole lot of doubts

no engine not same their block and piston is smaller model last time i bought the piston for my KR our block is #1808 they using another size block and piston,the kicker rod & sprocket is different than ours one mechanic say our ZX got lot of problem so the malaysian model is RR is a replica with problem solved model

[garrickchoww]

modifying airbox will help pick up but your topend suffer.. lesser compression when you using your top gear..

Drankster has answered your 2nd question..

 

 

 

yup yup..

 

 

 

14/39 520 chain..

0.87.. should be the correct one..

 

 

 

normally bike shops say 0.87 so they pour in 900ml.. because bike getting older.. thus they will eat "abit" of EO.. if want to check.. after your drain out, pour back into your EO bottle to see how much is left..

More EO is better than lesser EO.. heehee..

 

 

 

 

 

That sounds EXACTLY the same problem as I'm having.. *everytime you park, everytime have 2T right? That means 2T pump spoilt.. get it change to "save 2T"!! Else your 2T will drain faster than you think..

 

YESH YESH!!Wa so my heart is lightened when i know someone ever had this prob or have it now...at least got common topic..if not i emo..e only one lol..

Ur's still leak nowadays or change 2T pump den ok alr?

*Ya main point everytime park..will leak.. forms on e ground directly below fairing bottom.Haha... i currently no time yet leh zz. Next mon i will go ah chong shop and do...No choice lor.. i monitor 2T every 2 Days.. and top up little by little bit everytime i monitor...eat not too fast...yet not too slow.. but its definitely higher den norm.

[haoKR]

YESH YESH!!Wa so my heart is lightened when i know someone ever had this prob or have it now...at least got common topic..if not i emo..e only one lol..

Ur's still leak nowadays or change 2T pump den ok alr?

*Ya main point everytime park..will leak.. forms on e ground directly below fairing bottom.Haha... i currently no time yet leh zz. Next mon i will go ah chong shop and do...No choice lor.. i monitor 2T every 2 Days.. and top up little by little bit everytime i monitor...eat not too fast...yet not too slow.. but its definitely higher den norm.

 

2T container spoil izzit

u open tail fairing n c. mayb crack or wad

[garrickchoww]

2T container spoil izzit

u open tail fairing n c. mayb crack or wad

 

Haha nope i guess Prev replaced with a secondhand one alr..cos old one got crack..

And my stomach nvr leak 2T...Prev when leak it dripped onto stomach

[drak3st3r]

no engine not same their block and piston is smaller model last time i bought the piston for my KR our block is #1808 they using another size block and piston,the kicker rod & sprocket is different than ours one mechanic say our ZX got lot of problem so the malaysian model is RR is a replica with problem solved model

 

krr has always been 150cc bro. they might have invovled diff stroke and bore size but as far as i know it has been the same. there are even brazilian models.

 

malaysia and thai have two more types of krr which are krr ssr and krr se. this were older then our models. they are often termed powerful ones. older ones had cast iron block stronger but heavier later ones have nikasil lighter strong but cannot bore.

 

krr se cdi on our bikes will make ours fly. which u will know if u have tried. our blocks have gasket fully for blocks. older ones had o ring gasket for the top block seal. so ya. i have seen both and have friends with various blocks. the main thing is the engine is the same as far as i know cause all of them have the same gear ratios and primary reduction gear.

 

newer one sprocket is 14 42,older ones is 14 39 which is the same as ours. the frame is also diff for our neighbours which is pretty obvious ah.

 

maybe you are talking about kr 1 block which is a 125cc block. cause that bike is 250cc.

[tony2sg]

krr has always been 150cc bro. they might have invovled diff stroke and bore size but as far as i know it has been the same. there are even brazilian models.

 

malaysia and thai have two more types of krr which are krr ssr and krr se. this were older then our models. they are often termed powerful ones. older ones had cast iron block stronger but heavier later ones have nikasil lighter strong but cannot bore.

 

krr se cdi on our bikes will make ours fly. which u will know if u have tried. our blocks have gasket fully for blocks. older ones had o ring gasket for the top block seal. so ya. i have seen both and have friends with various blocks. the main thing is the engine is the same as far as i know cause all of them have the same gear ratios and primary reduction gear.

 

newer one sprocket is 14 42,older ones is 14 39 which is the same as ours. the frame is also diff for our neighbours which is pretty obvious ah.

 

maybe you are talking about kr 1 block which is a 125cc block. cause that bike is 250cc.

 

yes may be you are right i bought piston, rings and o-rings for my bike nothing can use,i buy whole block piston from here and change,waste of money and piston rings and o-rings sleeping at home anybody wanted to buy or not i dont know here got the same size

[adesmond2]

its like this if you overhaul the oil to be poured is 870ml. if oil change is 700ml or till it touches the upper line. oil should be drained with vehicle straight, it should also be checked when straight. if you top up 700 and still not touching upper line then idle the bike fore about a min then wait for about 5 mins the hold bike straight and check, if still not touching upper line then top up. engine oil should not go above upper line by very much cause when bike running the the oil hotter will be pressurised == not good. hope that clears up lots of doubts. some top up 750 ml cause they leave it to drain for longer time hence more old oil come out. so top up more.

 

wooo~ Understood.. btw, if above line, bike will be hotter?

 

i c...clean engine 870ml!

i normally open n let the old eo out till totally nothing cum out then i turn the bike left or right few time n wait n i proceed to do other part later then cum back n close it.

 

ya.. I old man liaoz.. need to gain knowledge.. grow until old, learn until old..

 

YESH YESH!!Wa so my heart is lightened when i know someone ever had this prob or have it now...at least got common topic..if not i emo..e only one lol..

Ur's still leak nowadays or change 2T pump den ok alr?

*Ya main point everytime park..will leak.. forms on e ground directly below fairing bottom.Haha... i currently no time yet leh zz. Next mon i will go ah chong shop and do...No choice lor.. i monitor 2T every 2 Days.. and top up little by little bit everytime i monitor...eat not too fast...yet not too slow.. but its definitely higher den norm.

 

yup.. go go.. after changing 2T pump, everything settled.. no more dripping of 2T..

I really check everytime for drips or etc.. normally if got chain lube den drip, it's common.. Of cuz.. I dun lube daily.. whahhaha..

if I didn't recall wrongly.. around 35..

 

krr has always been 150cc bro. they might have invovled diff stroke and bore size but as far as i know it has been the same. there are even brazilian models.

 

malaysia and thai have two more types of krr which are krr ssr and krr se. this were older then our models. they are often termed powerful ones. older ones had cast iron block stronger but heavier later ones have nikasil lighter strong but cannot bore.

 

krr se cdi on our bikes will make ours fly. which u will know if u have tried. our blocks have gasket fully for blocks. older ones had o ring gasket for the top block seal. so ya. i have seen both and have friends with various blocks. the main thing is the engine is the same as far as i know cause all of them have the same gear ratios and primary reduction gear.

 

newer one sprocket is 14 42,older ones is 14 39 which is the same as ours. the frame is also diff for our neighbours which is pretty obvious ah.

 

maybe you are talking about kr 1 block which is a 125cc block. cause that bike is 250cc.

 

wow.. chiam! btw, you stay in SG ar? why got so many friends around the world one sia?

[alvin8787]

drak3st3r

[tony2sg]

Anyone here know whether modifying my airbox will help in pickup? And what is the difference between the difference models or kr, like zx150rr, superkips, ninja etc? Mine is a 03 model, which catergory i belong to?

airbox modifying will give pick up yes but keep in mind that your engine also getting more air mixture FC will go down

[adesmond2]

drak3st3r

[ATTACH=CONFIG]221986[/ATTACH]

 

wooo.. what's that? Carb's cap?

[Smoker]

airbox modifying will give pick up yes but keep in mind that your engine also getting more air mixture FC will go down

 

There is no real use when modifying the airbox. The carb on the KR150 can only allow that much air into the cylinder. The amount of air that goes into the cylinder is the amount that can be sucked in by the piston. This air that gets sucked in must pass through the reed valve.

So what i am saying is that modifying the airbox will only give you induction noise (The sucking sound) and no gains. As tony2sg said when modifying the air box you will need to increase the main jet size in the carb or else it will run lean and burn a whole in your piston.

 

Oh and modifying the carb also make the bike heavier on fuel.

[drak3st3r]

wooo.. what's that? Carb's cap?

 

Yeah tts the carb cap. Haha. And I stay in Singapore. Make friends thru other country krr forums and all loh. I saw u in one of the Kawasaki forums too. But can't remember which.

 

There is no real use when modifying the airbox. The carb on the KR150 can only allow that much air into the cylinder. The amount of air that goes into the cylinder is the amount that can be sucked in by the piston. This air that gets sucked in must pass through the reed valve.

So what i am saying is that modifying the airbox will only give you induction noise (The sucking sound) and no gains. As tony2sg said when modifying the air box you will need to increase the main jet size in the carb or else it will run lean and burn a whole in your piston.

 

Oh and modifying the carb also make the bike heavier on fuel.

 

Let me ask u this. If modifying the air box only serves to increase induction noise and nothing else then why increase main jet. Modifying the air box is to allow air to flow inside carb with out restrictions. This means the same amount of air wil flow fast. To put it anoth way is now more air flows in the sme time. Also with lesser restriction now the engines sucks in air easier. Simple la bro. U wear mask and breather harder mah. U take it out u breathe in faster. When at engine high speeds this small thing makes a huge difference

[Smoker]

Yeah tts the carb cap. Haha. And I stay in Singapore. Make friends thru other country krr forums and all loh. I saw u in one of the Kawasaki forums too. But can't remember which.

 

 

 

Let me ask u this. If modifying the air box only serves to increase induction noise and nothing else then why increase main jet. Modifying the air box is to allow air to flow inside carb with out restrictions. This means the same amount of air wil flow fast. To put it anoth way is now more air flows in the sme time. Also with lesser restriction now the engines sucks in air easier. Simple la bro. U wear mask and breather harder mah. U take it out u breathe in faster. When at engine high speeds this small thing makes a huge difference

 

You are missing the point. Air is a non restrictive and follows the path laid out for it. let me explain to you in this way maybe then you will understand. The airbox has a volume lets say 500cc the carb is a 28mm flat slide. Every time the piston moves down it suck air and fuel through the reed valve. The Piston can only suck in that much fuel and air thought the reed value. Now let me tell you this The airbox volume is more that enough for any 28mm or 30mm carb to handle.

 

I tell you what. If you have a dyno here in Sing I will pay for the dyno run before and after modifying the airbox and then you can post the results here for all to see.

[drak3st3r]

You are missing the point. Air is a non restrictive and follows the path laid out for it. let me explain to you in this way maybe then you will understand. The airbox has a volume lets say 500cc the carb is a 28mm flat slide. Every time the piston moves down it suck air and fuel through the reed valve. The Piston can only suck in that much fuel and air thought the reed value. Now let me tell you this The airbox volume is more that enough for any 28mm or 30mm carb to handle.

 

I tell you what. If you have a dyno here in Sing I will pay for the dyno run before and after modifying the airbox and then you can post the results here for all to see.

 

u dun have to pay for a dyno bro.hahaha let me explain k. for us human air is this soft easy flowing thing which has no restrictions but for a engine at high speeds it aint the same. air which to us is super fast flowing and all becomes thick like oil to us to the engine. this can be explain by u breathing when standing and breathing when running at full speed. u will breathe harder when running and this i dun need a dyno. if u see air flow dynamics u will realise that air nearest to the transfers ports get sucked in first and then the adjacent air moves to replace its place, this continues till the air from the airbox moves into the carb and all the other places. if an airbox mod and things dun have any real effect, then i really pity KnN and BMC and those racing companies for selling millions of products and yet continue to sell them and make money with no proof.

 

i think i wanna take this time to also explains the so called mods done to a air box.

first is the removal of the air filter. this allows air to follow unrestricted but also allows dirt to go into carbs.

second the removal of the snorkel, the primary use of this is to reduce the induction noise but one of the side effects is the restricted flow of air into the airbox. removal of this allows a larger area for airflow and an easier one at the cost of induction noise.

3rd is the making of holes on the top lid of the airbox. this is actually done to allow more air to go inside the airbox bypassing the airfilter and snorkel. a shorter length means air arrives at carbs fast.

4th take out whole lid, a very much bigger area for ait intake. much faster air flow and much louder.

 

now i dun see why any of these would help in performance gains. dyno run can only be used to a level as they can NEVER produce the same environment as a real run. if modifiying the airbox intake is no use then i dun know what to say about the ram air intake systems used in the japanese big bikes like r1 k9 zx 10 and all of which operate on the principles of air flow

[adesmond2]

Yeah tts the carb cap. Haha. And I stay in Singapore. Make friends thru other country krr forums and all loh. I saw u in one of the Kawasaki forums too. But can't remember which.

 

 

 

Let me ask u this. If modifying the air box only serves to increase induction noise and nothing else then why increase main jet. Modifying the air box is to allow air to flow inside carb with out restrictions. This means the same amount of air wil flow fast. To put it anoth way is now more air flows in the sme time. Also with lesser restriction now the engines sucks in air easier. Simple la bro. U wear mask and breather harder mah. U take it out u breathe in faster. When at engine high speeds this small thing makes a huge difference

 

whahaha~ Yup yup.. Once I'm crazy on one thing, I'll go totally into it.. LOL! But dump everything after my feverish ends.. LOL~~

 

 

You are missing the point. Air is a non restrictive and follows the path laid out for it. let me explain to you in this way maybe then you will understand. The airbox has a volume lets say 500cc the carb is a 28mm flat slide. Every time the piston moves down it suck air and fuel through the reed valve. The Piston can only suck in that much fuel and air thought the reed value. Now let me tell you this The airbox volume is more that enough for any 28mm or 30mm carb to handle.

 

I tell you what. If you have a dyno here in Sing I will pay for the dyno run before and after modifying the airbox and then you can post the results here for all to see.

 

LOL~ chill chill.. everyone got their theory..

I do agreed what you mean is air box is there to "capture" a certain amount of volume and your piston/carb/reed value is taken into consideration..

That's why your bike need to be re-tune after your drill holes or change to anything that drak3t3r has mentioned below..

The increase of power because of removing airbox + re-tune has a huge diff of pick up.. of cuz.. with pick up increase, top end automatic suffer abit..

 

Tested and proven..

Ask the old birds.. hahaha~~

 

u dun have to pay for a dyno bro.hahaha let me explain k. for us human air is this soft easy flowing thing which has no restrictions but for a engine at high speeds it aint the same. air which to us is super fast flowing and all becomes thick like oil to us to the engine. this can be explain by u breathing when standing and breathing when running at full speed. u will breathe harder when running and this i dun need a dyno. if u see air flow dynamics u will realise that air nearest to the transfers ports get sucked in first and then the adjacent air moves to replace its place, this continues till the air from the airbox moves into the carb and all the other places. if an airbox mod and things dun have any real effect, then i really pity KnN and BMC and those racing companies for selling millions of products and yet continue to sell them and make money with no proof.

 

i think i wanna take this time to also explains the so called mods done to a air box.

first is the removal of the air filter. this allows air to follow unrestricted but also allows dirt to go into carbs.

second the removal of the snorkel, the primary use of this is to reduce the induction noise but one of the side effects is the restricted flow of air into the airbox. removal of this allows a larger area for airflow and an easier one at the cost of induction noise.

3rd is the making of holes on the top lid of the airbox. this is actually done to allow more air to go inside the airbox bypassing the airfilter and snorkel. a shorter length means air arrives at carbs fast.

4th take out whole lid, a very much bigger area for ait intake. much faster air flow and much louder.

 

now i dun see why any of these would help in performance gains. dyno run can only be used to a level as they can NEVER produce the same environment as a real run. if modifiying the airbox intake is no use then i dun know what to say about the ram air intake systems used in the japanese big bikes like r1 k9 zx 10 and all of which operate on the principles of air flow

 

lolx~~ Yup yup..

[Smoker]

u dun have to pay for a dyno bro.hahaha let me explain k. for us human air is this soft easy flowing thing which has no restrictions but for a engine at high speeds it aint the same. air which to us is super fast flowing and all becomes thick like oil to us to the engine. this can be explain by u breathing when standing and breathing when running at full speed. u will breathe harder when running and this i dun need a dyno. if u see air flow dynamics u will realise that air nearest to the transfers ports get sucked in first and then the adjacent air moves to replace its place, this continues till the air from the airbox moves into the carb and all the other places. if an airbox mod and things dun have any real effect, then i really pity KnN and BMC and those racing companies for selling millions of products and yet continue to sell them and make money with no proof.

 

i think i wanna take this time to also explains the so called mods done to a air box.

first is the removal of the air filter. this allows air to follow unrestricted but also allows dirt to go into carbs.

second the removal of the snorkel, the primary use of this is to reduce the induction noise but one of the side effects is the restricted flow of air into the airbox. removal of this allows a larger area for airflow and an easier one at the cost of induction noise.

3rd is the making of holes on the top lid of the airbox. this is actually done to allow more air to go inside the airbox bypassing the airfilter and snorkel. a shorter length means air arrives at carbs fast.

4th take out whole lid, a very much bigger area for ait intake. much faster air flow and much louder.

 

now i dun see why any of these would help in performance gains. dyno run can only be used to a level as they can NEVER produce the same environment as a real run. if modifiying the airbox intake is no use then i dun know what to say about the ram air intake systems used in the japanese big bikes like r1 k9 zx 10 and all of which operate on the principles of air flow

 

LOL you make me laugh. So you are the man. Please do the math to entertain me. Please tell me how much air does a KR150 suck in at say 10500rpm. When you get the answer to check the volume of the airbox as well :shock. Well I am glad you mentioned the transfer ports. So tell me again you must air flows thought those little transfer ports?

As for the KNN and BMC they sell filters that are less restrictive and please do once again entertain me by using a dyno to show me the difference LOL. Once again you get that induction noise that you are looking for when using a KNN or the likes. Oh side note KNN nor BMC has never said you need to mod you airbox lol

 

As for am air yes that FORCE air into the airbox. Not like some airbox mod i did under the tank bhahahhahaha

 

Sigh

[drak3st3r]

LOL you make me laugh. So you are the man. Please do the math to entertain me. Please tell me how much air does a KR150 suck in at say 10500rpm. When you get the answer to check the volume of the airbox as well :shock. Well I am glad you mentioned the transfer ports. So tell me again you must air flows thought those little transfer ports?

As for the KNN and BMC they sell filters that are less restrictive and please do once again entertain me by using a dyno to show me the difference LOL. Once again you get that induction noise that you are looking for when using a KNN or the likes. Oh side note KNN nor BMC has never said you need to mod you airbox lol

 

As for am air yes that FORCE air into the airbox. Not like some airbox mod i did under the tank bhahahhahaha

 

Sigh

 

glad i cheered u up, now for the math i cant calculate for you precisely as i dun have enough info pretaining to it but roughly i can say for each stroke the volume of the cylinder is 148ml which at 10500 rpm would have a 2t ratio of around 1l is to 50 ml which then equates to about 140.95 cc of air fuel mixture which then at an ideal air to fuel ratio of 12.7 is to 1 equates to about 130 cc or 130 ml of air per stroke. the air box is usually as far as i know set to about 3 times the size of intake which then equates to about around 390cc

 

about your transfer ports question, i dun actually get you.

 

if u claim that knn and bmc filters are less restrictive then how did u say in your previous post that air is non restricted and follows the path laid for it. if it indeed is non restricted or is non rectrictive and follows the path laid for it then there should not be ANY diff when using a aftermarket filter of ram air intake or short air intake or cold air intake.

you sir have contradicted yourself by say air is non restricted then agreeing to the fact that after market filter are less restrictive.

 

last but not least knn didnt say use airbox, true but they also sell filters that are to be used INSIDE the oem airbox in place of the OEM filter to ENABLE better filtration without being restrictive like the OEM filters.

 

i rest my case

[Rxz1907]

drak3st3r: do u have krr150 manual.. the one which they show u how to open engine so on??

[drak3st3r]

drak3st3r: do u have krr150 manual.. the one which they show u how to open engine so on??

 

No bro I Dun have. Sorry.

[alvin8787]

wooo.. what's that? Carb's cap?

 

yes..PWL!i misplace the click n lazy to find!

[alvin8787]

There is no real use when modifying the airbox. The carb on the KR150 can only allow that much air into the cylinder. The amount of air that goes into the cylinder is the amount that can be sucked in by the piston. This air that gets sucked in must pass through the reed valve.

So what i am saying is that modifying the airbox will only give you induction noise (The sucking sound) and no gains. As tony2sg said when modifying the air box you will need to increase the main jet size in the carb or else it will run lean and burn a whole in your piston.

 

Oh and modifying the carb also make the bike heavier on fuel.

 

You are missing the point. Air is a non restrictive and follows the path laid out for it. let me explain to you in this way maybe then you will understand. The airbox has a volume lets say 500cc the carb is a 28mm flat slide. Every time the piston moves down it suck air and fuel through the reed valve. The Piston can only suck in that much fuel and air thought the reed value. Now let me tell you this The airbox volume is more that enough for any 28mm or 30mm carb to handle.

 

I tell you what. If you have a dyno here in Sing I will pay for the dyno run before and after modifying the airbox and then you can post the results here for all to see.

 

LOL you make me laugh. So you are the man. Please do the math to entertain me. Please tell me how much air does a KR150 suck in at say 10500rpm. When you get the answer to check the volume of the airbox as well :shock. Well I am glad you mentioned the transfer ports. So tell me again you must air flows thought those little transfer ports?

As for the KNN and BMC they sell filters that are less restrictive and please do once again entertain me by using a dyno to show me the difference LOL. Once again you get that induction noise that you are looking for when using a KNN or the likes. Oh side note KNN nor BMC has never said you need to mod you airbox lol

 

As for am air yes that FORCE air into the airbox. Not like some airbox mod i did under the tank bhahahhahaha

 

Sigh

 

yours talking look like someone...............

[alvin8787]

LOL you make me laugh. So you are the man. Please do the math to entertain me. Please tell me how much air does a KR150 suck in at say 10500rpm. When you get the answer to check the volume of the airbox as well :shock. Well I am glad you mentioned the transfer ports. So tell me again you must air flows thought those little transfer ports?

As for the KNN and BMC they sell filters that are less restrictive and please do once again entertain me by using a dyno to show me the difference LOL. Once again you get that induction noise that you are looking for when using a KNN or the likes. Oh side note KNN nor BMC has never said you need to mod you airbox lol

 

As for am air yes that FORCE air into the airbox. Not like some airbox mod i did under the tank bhahahhahaha

 

Sigh

 

still keep the RD350!!!nice!!!

[tony2sg]

whahaha~ Yup yup.. Once I'm crazy on one thing, I'll go totally into it.. LOL! But dump everything after my feverish ends.. LOL~~

 

 

 

 

LOL~ chill chill.. everyone got their theory..

I do agreed what you mean is air box is there to "capture" a certain amount of volume and your piston/carb/reed value is taken into consideration..

That's why your bike need to be re-tune after your drill holes or change to anything that drak3t3r has mentioned below..

The increase of power because of removing airbox + re-tune has a huge diff of pick up.. of cuz.. with pick up increase, top end automatic suffer abit..

 

Tested and proven..

Ask the old birds.. hahaha~~

 

 

 

lolx~~ Yup yup..

 

 

hi Bro's let us make ourself clear from the airbox holes,kawasaki got a R&D team with expert and engineers sure they will think this aspect last time i drilled my airbox pickup is great but FC and carbon deposit on the valve is higher three months onetime need to go full servicing full tank can go below 200km,i coverback the holes there is a slighter diff in pickup FC 280 for full tank no valve jam for 6 months.stock condition KR sure can close meter without any modification whatever modification we doing is for oursatisfaction only