[Group] Super Four Non-VTEC Family: PB1 VerR & VerS

[Hondaman]

Maybe before buying try asking some of us lah to buy or not to buy. Or maybe some willing angels who can spare some time to help come down to take a look at the bike.

 

Old version of super4 is very hard to choose. if you were like me (Dont be like me ) who accidentally bought a bike by its paintworks then gud luck lah fork out money non-stop. now I managed to relax lah. still to come, COE,Rear Suspension. aiyah...

 

Sometime you see old S4 that doesnt look promising but you never know if the engine is good. I've seen one ah pek style s4 and the engine is bloody solid. I dont even know if the engine ON or not sia. Silent and also powerful tested by my mech. he gave a thumbs up to the owner but sadly the owner use only 1 month liao...after that kena stolen at Jb .

 

usually as what I note down from some old experts is the Engine sound, if its sound as what you like eg; stable and a little silent then its good. Then check the front Fork for leaking or worn out or importantly DENTS. one of my fren bought a bike which actually has a dent on the fork, the oil kept leaking out even if he change the seal. Then if bike shop let you test, ride it straight and look forward to see if the bike follows ur language by gg straight, if its not, then most prob the handlebar or the whole frame already not aligned.That is a bigger problem. Then asked the owner (if you buy from an owner) how he usually service it. to be precise, EO change every 5000km, OF can change together with EO or every 10000km, Spark Plug as what I heard change every 10000km but it depends lah if you not a tourer or a racer than it can last long. Easy to know if SPark Plug blow is when you pull throttle, there will be a Bop Bop Bop sound coming from the exhaust. its an indication of one of the spark plug blown or also during heating up, if you brave u can touch a bit on the header to feel the heat. if one is still cold then yeah its dead. if the Owner gave funny2 anwers of servicing than something wrong there. Air filter can change after 1 year or maybe lesser if you're a tourer.But it can last long also if you're just a normal rider.

 

Things that need to remember that is vital to your control of the bike is, Brake pads & Calipper servicing.This is important. One of my friend just had a fall bcoz of the front calipper suddenly jammed. Then Steering Cone also change when you feel the front is wobbly or jerking when you pressed the front brakes. Clutch & throttle cable is a little tricky coz we do not know when its going to snapped. So just try to play safe with it lah. Most importantly is the coolent system (Radiator, pump, thermorstate, coolent hose etc.) need to do some maintenance. The main problem is always the Coolent system. coz its an old bike so does the whole system. So Change all 7 or 8 hoses i think, if you need be, try change the metal hose too (I experienced it once when the metal hose burst while riding. Pity the white car beside me for getting all the rust water from the burst ).

 

So far that is what I took note of or already experienced it. Maybe if there is someone who knows better, please highlights the correct procedure.

 

DIY maintenance can lah if you're good but if not, better put the pressure on the mechanics at least if anything happen we got someone to point to. .

 

Modification of the carb,jettings etc is ok lah but as you know it acts as a double-edge sword. It give something and takes back something in return and that we do not know of. maybe the lifespan of the engines, the huge consumption on the petrol or maybe worst case scenario but play safe lah if you want to do modifications coz this bike is not Spec 3 liao.

 

Our engines are much powerful because we do not depend on vtec valve. And true we can still outrun vtecs if we want anytime. ehehehe. Nonetheless Non-vtecs are still a good touring and general bike to use if we do proper maintenance. you should check Japan site, they still regards Non vtec S4 as a powerful bike rather than the vtecs.

 

Thats it for my 2cents worth. Jeng Jeng Jeng!

[Marcheline]

Maybe before buying try asking some of us lah to buy or not to buy. Or maybe some willing angels who can spare some time to help come down to take a look at the bike.

 

Old version of super4 is very hard to choose. if you were like me (Dont be like me ) who accidentally bought a bike by its paintworks then gud luck lah fork out money non-stop. now I managed to relax lah. still to come, COE,Rear Suspension. aiyah...

 

Sometime you see old S4 that doesnt look promising but you never know if the engine is good. I've seen one ah pek style s4 and the engine is bloody solid. I dont even know if the engine ON or not sia. Silent and also powerful tested by my mech. he gave a thumbs up to the owner but sadly the owner use only 1 month liao...after that kena stolen at Jb .

 

usually as what I note down from some old experts is the Engine sound, if its sound as what you like eg; stable and a little silent then its good. Then check the front Fork for leaking or worn out or importantly DENTS. one of my fren bought a bike which actually has a dent on the fork, the oil kept leaking out even if he change the seal. Then if bike shop let you test, ride it straight and look forward to see if the bike follows ur language by gg straight, if its not, then most prob the handlebar or the whole frame already not aligned.That is a bigger problem. Then asked the owner (if you buy from an owner) how he usually service it. to be precise, EO change every 5000km, OF can change together with EO or every 10000km, Spark Plug as what I heard change every 10000km but it depends lah if you not a tourer or a racer than it can last long. Easy to know if SPark Plug blow is when you pull throttle, there will be a Bop Bop Bop sound coming from the exhaust. its an indication of one of the spark plug blown or also during heating up, if you brave u can touch a bit on the header to feel the heat. if one is still cold then yeah its dead. if the Owner gave funny2 anwers of servicing than something wrong there. Air filter can change after 1 year or maybe lesser if you're a tourer.But it can last long also if you're just a normal rider.

 

Things that need to remember that is vital to your control of the bike is, Brake pads & Calipper servicing.This is important. One of my friend just had a fall bcoz of the front calipper suddenly jammed. Then Steering Cone also change when you feel the front is wobbly or jerking when you pressed the front brakes. Clutch & throttle cable is a little tricky coz we do not know when its going to snapped. So just try to play safe with it lah. Most importantly is the coolent system (Radiator, pump, thermorstate, coolent hose etc.) need to do some maintenance. The main problem is always the Coolent system. coz its an old bike so does the whole system. So Change all 7 or 8 hoses i think, if you need be, try change the metal hose too (I experienced it once when the metal hose burst while riding. Pity the white car beside me for getting all the rust water from the burst ).

 

So far that is what I took note of or already experienced it. Maybe if there is someone who knows better, please highlights the correct procedure.

 

DIY maintenance can lah if you're good but if not, better put the pressure on the mechanics at least if anything happen we got someone to point to. .

 

Modification of the carb,jettings etc is ok lah but as you know it acts as a double-edge sword. It give something and takes back something in return and that we do not know of. maybe the lifespan of the engines, the huge consumption on the petrol or maybe worst case scenario but play safe lah if you want to do modifications coz this bike is not Spec 3 liao.

 

Our engines are much powerful because we do not depend on vtec valve. And true we can still outrun vtecs if we want anytime. ehehehe. Nonetheless Non-vtecs are still a good touring and general bike to use if we do proper maintenance. you should check Japan site, they still regards Non vtec S4 as a powerful bike rather than the vtecs.

 

Thats it for my 2cents worth. Jeng Jeng Jeng!

 

Hey bro! Thanks for the heads-up. For a while there, I thought my mini-brembos had ABS, cos everytime I press the front brakes, the steering would be jerking forward and backwards slightly before stopping, as though the brake calipers were engaging and disengaging many times a second. Now I know my steering cone is koyak! Back to Unique tomorrow.

 

And yeah.. I bought my baby based on the engine. The paintwork was cracked, previous owner had a fall before, exhaust got funny zziiiing sound (yet to be solved), meter light faulty, but the engine is damn solid. It's really a blessing in disguise I guess. Can hear it purring nicely at idle, as though it were off! And no problems starting cold at all.

 

And gkdozer, hope you can solve the problem soon. 1.5k for repairs is ouch.

 

Things to do:

1) Paste 3M white rim sticker (Thx Ivakarazi!)

2) Change steering cone (Thx Hondaman!)

3) Change seat cushion

4) ........ Many more things yet to be done

 

And minton! That triangular shaped side panel is already a tell-tale sign that it's a Non-Vtec! Haha.. Screw the previous owner for being so cheeky, spray-painting Spec II on it. Lol.

 

Ooh.. A Non-Vtec outing to M'sia. Can our mostly 10 year old engines take the stress? Hope its not a case of 20 going and only 14 made it back. Heheh.

[Darkness19]

A Non-Vtec outing to M'sia will be great

[Marcheline]

And we need no other than the lao-jiao down here, who has toured on his Ver S before. Mr. Hondaman, please stand up!

[AsHaRiE]

Hahaha.. wadafark.. one of our forummer SaRasta rode up to phuket on her version S.. I do have afew more frens that tours with a couple of version S averaging 150-160kmph and they say its possible and nice indeed.. but in saying that.. of course pre-touring maintenance is an absolute must .. i.e electrical wirings, engine oil, tyres and especially coolant.. you dun wan your engine to go bust on the NSHW.. it'll cost a bomb to tow it back to sg..

 

So..seafood at perling anyone?? just an idea..Hondaman can lead the pack..

[smiley73]

Maybe before buying try asking some of us lah to buy or not to buy. Or maybe some willing angels who can spare some time to help come down to take a look at the bike.

 

Old version of super4 is very hard to choose. if you were like me (Dont be like me ) who accidentally bought a bike by its paintworks then gud luck lah fork out money non-stop. now I managed to relax lah. still to come, COE,Rear Suspension. aiyah...

 

Sometime you see old S4 that doesnt look promising but you never know if the engine is good. I've seen one ah pek style s4 and the engine is bloody solid. I dont even know if the engine ON or not sia. Silent and also powerful tested by my mech. he gave a thumbs up to the owner but sadly the owner use only 1 month liao...after that kena stolen at Jb .

 

usually as what I note down from some old experts is the Engine sound, if its sound as what you like eg; stable and a little silent then its good. Then check the front Fork for leaking or worn out or importantly DENTS. one of my fren bought a bike which actually has a dent on the fork, the oil kept leaking out even if he change the seal. Then if bike shop let you test, ride it straight and look forward to see if the bike follows ur language by gg straight, if its not, then most prob the handlebar or the whole frame already not aligned.That is a bigger problem. Then asked the owner (if you buy from an owner) how he usually service it. to be precise, EO change every 5000km, OF can change together with EO or every 10000km, Spark Plug as what I heard change every 10000km but it depends lah if you not a tourer or a racer than it can last long. Easy to know if SPark Plug blow is when you pull throttle, there will be a Bop Bop Bop sound coming from the exhaust. its an indication of one of the spark plug blown or also during heating up, if you brave u can touch a bit on the header to feel the heat. if one is still cold then yeah its dead. if the Owner gave funny2 anwers of servicing than something wrong there. Air filter can change after 1 year or maybe lesser if you're a tourer.But it can last long also if you're just a normal rider.

 

Things that need to remember that is vital to your control of the bike is, Brake pads & Calipper servicing.This is important. One of my friend just had a fall bcoz of the front calipper suddenly jammed. Then Steering Cone also change when you feel the front is wobbly or jerking when you pressed the front brakes. Clutch & throttle cable is a little tricky coz we do not know when its going to snapped. So just try to play safe with it lah. Most importantly is the coolent system (Radiator, pump, thermorstate, coolent hose etc.) need to do some maintenance. The main problem is always the Coolent system. coz its an old bike so does the whole system. So Change all 7 or 8 hoses i think, if you need be, try change the metal hose too (I experienced it once when the metal hose burst while riding. Pity the white car beside me for getting all the rust water from the burst ).

 

So far that is what I took note of or already experienced it. Maybe if there is someone who knows better, please highlights the correct procedure.

 

DIY maintenance can lah if you're good but if not, better put the pressure on the mechanics at least if anything happen we got someone to point to. .

 

Modification of the carb,jettings etc is ok lah but as you know it acts as a double-edge sword. It give something and takes back something in return and that we do not know of. maybe the lifespan of the engines, the huge consumption on the petrol or maybe worst case scenario but play safe lah if you want to do modifications coz this bike is not Spec 3 liao.

 

Our engines are much powerful because we do not depend on vtec valve. And true we can still outrun vtecs if we want anytime. ehehehe. Nonetheless Non-vtecs are still a good touring and general bike to use if we do proper maintenance. you should check Japan site, they still regards Non vtec S4 as a powerful bike rather than the vtecs.

 

Thats it for my 2cents worth. Jeng Jeng Jeng!

 

 

NIce write up

[Hondaman]

Hahaha.. wadafark.. one of our forummer SaRasta rode up to phuket on her version S.. I do have afew more frens that tours with a couple of version S averaging 150-160kmph and they say its possible and nice indeed.. but in saying that.. of course pre-touring maintenance is an absolute must .. i.e electrical wirings, engine oil, tyres and especially coolant.. you dun wan your engine to go bust on the NSHW.. it'll cost a bomb to tow it back to sg..

 

So..seafood at perling anyone?? just an idea..Hondaman can lead the pack..

 

Yeah Sarasta! the only shorty jamaican wannabe gal who ever rode her mighty Ver S all the way to Phuket and came back safely. Then after that KL to & fro many times with speed of 190km/h until finally she changed to Yamaha Fazer 600. hehehhe.

 

Also Mr Spider175 whom rode to Thailand also with his ver S.

 

Aiyoh I cant be the leader of the pack lah. Mr Sino can be a leader too. Asharie also can be one. in fact the only uncle laojiao who good in touring that i know of is WINGZERO. Been following him a few times.Dunno why he quiet now.. .For touring ride, just need to do the regular check and then major checks like suspension, carburator and importantly radiator/coolent and tyres.

[tim17]

sorry... think nowadays i had been posting up a lot of question... am still 5 days new to my VersionS...

 

am thinking of changing my meter LED to white.. any recommendation?

 

and also thinking of doing 4 point grounding without volt stablalizer.. wanna have a smoother pick up.. and a better FC... now my FX is like 22km per L..

 

anybody tired BROQUET? really help??

 

and when i'm riding at 90 or 100km/H... the RPM is around 4-5.. is this normal? or am I over-rev?

[Marcheline]

Nice ride, tim17!

[tim17]

Nice ride, tim17!

 

thank you....

[Darkness19]

sorry... think nowadays i had been posting up a lot of question... am still 5 days new to my VersionS...

 

am thinking of changing my meter LED to white.. any recommendation?

 

and also thinking of doing 4 point grounding without volt stablalizer.. wanna have a smoother pick up.. and a better FC... now my FX is like 22km per L..

 

anybody tired BROQUET? really help??

 

and when i'm riding at 90 or 100km/H... the RPM is around 4-5.. is this normal? or am I over-rev?

 

i tink nobody has use the broquet yet,for the non vtec,but i heard is quite effective,alot of gd comments,i am tinking of trying it for my specIII & VerS

[tim17]

i tink nobody has use the broquet yet,for the non vtec,but i heard is quite effective,alot of gd comments,i am tinking of trying it for my specIII & VerS

 

you got spec3 and versionS? LOL... rich rich rich...

 

am wanna try the broquet on my VersionS... 22km per litre not good enough...

[Marcheline]

Broquet.. I'm already getting about 25km/l for my Ver S, even with occasional whacks of up to 140km/h. Put Broquet can reach until 30km/l meh?

 

You haven't entered NS and you have two bikes?! One Ver S and one Spec III????

[Marcheline]

Got a question. My left handlegrip is stable at any speed and I can't feel any vibration at all. My right side, there's this vibration which I can't seem to remove. When I travel freehand, my bike also tends to fall sideways to the right. Now my question is this:

 

Is this caused by the right fork being in need of repair?

Or will changing the steering cone solve this?

 

What's the probable cause that you can think of?

[sino74]

Got a question. My left handlegrip is stable at any speed and I can't feel any vibration at all. My right side, there's this vibration which I can't seem to remove. When I travel freehand, my bike also tends to fall sideways to the right. Now my question is this:

 

Is this caused by the right fork being in need of repair?

Or will changing the steering cone solve this?

 

What's the probable cause that you can think of?

 

bro ,

- check to see whether ur fork has oil leaks --> fork oil seal need to replace.

- check whether ur front tyre is bald --> replace if not pump ur front tyre @ 200-210psi.

- lastly tighten ur steering cone .

[Marcheline]

Hey bro sino74,

 

Fork is fine, although I feel that it's too stiff when going over humps etc. Time to change the fork oil?

 

Front and rear tyres are new Sportec ME1's.

 

How to tighten steering cone? Based on what Hondaman said regarding the jerky feeling whilst braking with front brakes, shouldn't a replacement of the steering cone be done?

[sino74]

Maybe before buying try asking some of us lah to buy or not to buy. Or maybe some willing angels who can spare some time to help come down to take a look at the bike.

 

Old version of super4 is very hard to choose. if you were like me (Dont be like me ) who accidentally bought a bike by its paintworks then gud luck lah fork out money non-stop. now I managed to relax lah. still to come, COE,Rear Suspension. aiyah...

 

Sometime you see old S4 that doesnt look promising but you never know if the engine is good. I've seen one ah pek style s4 and the engine is bloody solid. I dont even know if the engine ON or not sia. Silent and also powerful tested by my mech. he gave a thumbs up to the owner but sadly the owner use only 1 month liao...after that kena stolen at Jb .

 

usually as what I note down from some old experts is the Engine sound, if its sound as what you like eg; stable and a little silent then its good. Then check the front Fork for leaking or worn out or importantly DENTS. one of my fren bought a bike which actually has a dent on the fork, the oil kept leaking out even if he change the seal. Then if bike shop let you test, ride it straight and look forward to see if the bike follows ur language by gg straight, if its not, then most prob the handlebar or the whole frame already not aligned.That is a bigger problem. Then asked the owner (if you buy from an owner) how he usually service it. to be precise, EO change every 5000km, OF can change together with EO or every 10000km, Spark Plug as what I heard change every 10000km but it depends lah if you not a tourer or a racer than it can last long. Easy to know if SPark Plug blow is when you pull throttle, there will be a Bop Bop Bop sound coming from the exhaust. its an indication of one of the spark plug blown or also during heating up, if you brave u can touch a bit on the header to feel the heat. if one is still cold then yeah its dead. if the Owner gave funny2 anwers of servicing than something wrong there. Air filter can change after 1 year or maybe lesser if you're a tourer.But it can last long also if you're just a normal rider.

 

Things that need to remember that is vital to your control of the bike is, Brake pads & Calipper servicing.This is important. One of my friend just had a fall bcoz of the front calipper suddenly jammed. Then Steering Cone also change when you feel the front is wobbly or jerking when you pressed the front brakes. Clutch & throttle cable is a little tricky coz we do not know when its going to snapped. So just try to play safe with it lah. Most importantly is the coolent system (Radiator, pump, thermorstate, coolent hose etc.) need to do some maintenance. The main problem is always the Coolent system. coz its an old bike so does the whole system. So Change all 7 or 8 hoses i think, if you need be, try change the metal hose too (I experienced it once when the metal hose burst while riding. Pity the white car beside me for getting all the rust water from the burst ).

 

So far that is what I took note of or already experienced it. Maybe if there is someone who knows better, please highlights the correct procedure.

 

DIY maintenance can lah if you're good but if not, better put the pressure on the mechanics at least if anything happen we got someone to point to. .

 

Modification of the carb,jettings etc is ok lah but as you know it acts as a double-edge sword. It give something and takes back something in return and that we do not know of. maybe the lifespan of the engines, the huge consumption on the petrol or maybe worst case scenario but play safe lah if you want to do modifications coz this bike is not Spec 3 liao.

 

Our engines are much powerful because we do not depend on vtec valve. And true we can still outrun vtecs if we want anytime. ehehehe. Nonetheless Non-vtecs are still a good touring and general bike to use if we do proper maintenance. you should check Japan site, they still regards Non vtec S4 as a powerful bike rather than the vtecs.

 

Thats it for my 2cents worth. Jeng Jeng Jeng!

 

:clapping:

 

A Non-Vtec outing to M'sia will be great

 

y not we join this month mass gatherin n from there we'll work things out.

 

And we need no other than the lao-jiao down here, who has toured on his Ver S before. Mr. Hondaman, please stand up!

 

what about ver R

[smiley73]

you got spec3 and versionS? LOL... rich rich rich...

 

am wanna try the broquet on my VersionS... 22km per litre not good enough...

 

Tim17 Your Ver S tail look like PB1 type. can take a pic of your engine

[Marcheline]

Bro, my Ver S tail also looks like that leh..

[smiley73]

Bro, my Ver S tail also looks like that leh..

 

mine PB1 behind consist 2 section... maybe newer ver S one whole piece type ba... engine design can tell.

[tim17]

Tim17 Your Ver S tail look like PB1 type. can take a pic of your engine

 

?? from seeing my engine.. you will be able to see is it PB1 or versionS??

 

how to see the different?? the shop told me this bike is VersionS le...

 

below is a photo of my engine.. please enlighten me

 

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2293/1991330366_ce6904565b.jpg

[Hondaman]

Hahaha....relax2 ver S got the 1st edition and 2nd edition. Urs is the 1st edition and supposedly the head and exhaust must look as same as PB1. I heard that the 1st edition is supposedly meant for better fuel consumption but not for performance. Then they change it to 2nd edition and that is for performace. But if you can tune the 1st edition, its performance is better than the 2nd edition. Mikedirt is using 1st edition ver S and its a power bike.

[smiley73]

Hahaha....relax2 ver S got the 1st edition and 2nd edition. Urs is the 1st edition and supposedly the head and exhaust must look as same as PB1. I heard that the 1st edition is supposedly meant for better fuel consumption but not for performance. Then they change it to 2nd edition and that is for performace. But if you can tune the 1st edition, its performance is better than the 2nd edition. Mikedirt is using 1st edition ver S and its a power bike.

 

Thanks for the enlightenment...

 

?? from seeing my engine.. you will be able to see is it PB1 or versionS??

 

how to see the different?? the shop told me this bike is VersionS le...

 

below is a photo of my engine.. please enlighten me

 

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2293/1991330366_ce6904565b.jpg

 

 

you Ver S. Look @ the Fin of the engine compare to mine you see the diff.

[tim17]

Hahaha....relax2 ver S got the 1st edition and 2nd edition. Urs is the 1st edition and supposedly the head and exhaust must look as same as PB1. I heard that the 1st edition is supposedly meant for better fuel consumption but not for performance. Then they change it to 2nd edition and that is for performace. But if you can tune the 1st edition, its performance is better than the 2nd edition. Mikedirt is using 1st edition ver S and its a power bike.

 

you mean tune the curb so that i can get a better performance? by the way.. i wanna try BROQUET on my VersionS.. what is your recommendation??

 

and hondaman... do you live and eat with super4??

[smiley73]

you mean tune the curb so that i can get a better performance? by the way.. i wanna try BROQUET on my VersionS.. what is your recommendation??

 

and hondaman... do you live and eat with super4??

 

22km/L very good... I think you more or less decided to put BROQUET cos keep mention about it... what i think this will not improve much of fuel comsumption. what is you ideal figure that consider good? maybe u check will the dealer how much more can u save compare to present 22km/L.

 

service you curb and have proper tuning will hence better fuel comsumption and performance