DIY Chain Oiler

[ahchua5582]

guys... I jus installed a oiler using Mr LIMSTEEL's gravity method!!! Its works... now, I'm jus waiting to see if it leaks from the plastic bottle which I had made a whole with using a heated screwdriver (Thanks Calyban, for the heated solution)!!!, Now, I'm very hard that the damn thing wont leak!!!...cos, I oli use super glue to seal up every possible leakage!!! wait for my good news...

[mi5trooper]

i don't see a page 7 leh. hmm...

[zasrock]

ya.. where is page 7... anyway calyban can you leave ur contact so it is easier to contact you regrading the diy oiler. Thanks

[calyban]

ya.. where is page 7... anyway calyban can you leave ur contact so it is easier to contact you regrading the diy oiler. Thanks

 

Hey this thread has been revived!

 

sorry sorry, I must have been sleeping when I last posted the reference to the pics.

They are actually on this same thread, page 4, bottom half.

 

My mobile number is 96251262, SMS me if anyone is interested duo-sprocket applicator oilers.

[ahchua5582]

[ahchua5582]

anyone nid oiler.. jus pm me....

[ahchua5582]

no one interested in oilers?? Calyban, where r u?!!!

[tkjacko78]

Hiz guys, i am currently diy my chain oiler. Here some info for those who want to diy their chain oiler too.

 

I did some research in SBF before i start doing it.

This are the item u need.

[tkjacko78]

this is how it look like when on the bike

[tkjacko78]

the on off switch.

[senate747]

bro,i hv a diy oiler as well. just wanted to let u knw that try to use those plastic valves instead of the metal ones cos the normal metal ones leak easily. i use those pipe seal (white color tape) n went a few rounds on the screw thread of the plastic valves so that they will not leak. will post a pic soon.

[kucari]

how much is est. cost?is it better than scottoiler?

 

anybody want to install diy chain oiler on my bike?

[senate747]

how much is est. cost?is it better than scottoiler?

 

anybody want to install diy chain oiler on my bike?

 

think it will cost range from 0 to $15 dependin on what u use. the thing abt diy oiler is that u have to manually turn the valve on n off each time u move off. i will say that scotoiler is a gd investment if u have the $$ cos it cost $180 and its auto. i opted for a diy oiler for my current bike cos i do not know when i will change it.

[devilsadd]

hi there... may i noe the diy chain oiler can be place on cbr 400??? and can i noe de stuff to buy for the chain oiler??? i mean de name of the stuff...

[Limsteel]

Tried to find my thread on the chain oiler seems like it was deleted.

 

Most of the stuff can be bought from the Aquarium... I bought Air Tube, Connectors, Valves... etc from there...

 

Cable tie, bottle, white tape, epoxy, glue, etc can be purchase at NgoKimTiam (hardware shop)

 

All in all I spent less then a dollar... as I have most of the stuff.

 

Scott Oiler though a very good investment but the returns is really not very worth it... just imagine if you could spend a min to lube your chain before or after a ride daily (just spray to any of the expose area) it would be very as good as having scott oiler.

[devilsadd]

can anyone list mi de whole list of things required???

 

gonna tried it out...

[sjay09]

i did try once, and used silicon to try seal off the hole after inserting the valve. but silicon is not that good. the whole thing came out after 3 days. anything works better?

 

also, anyone knows where can get a regulating valve that has the same size as the air tube? wanted to regulate the flow, but with the on/off valve either get too slow a drop, around 3-4min a drop, or too fast that it floods the chains. thanx.

[Aalex82]

i did try once, and used silicon to try seal off the hole after inserting the valve. but silicon is not that good. the whole thing came out after 3 days. anything works better?

 

also, anyone knows where can get a regulating valve that has the same size as the air tube? wanted to regulate the flow, but with the on/off valve either get too slow a drop, around 3-4min a drop, or too fast that it floods the chains. thanx.

 

U can try use eproxy to seal it.. Those need to mix type a and b together. As for the regulating valve, i use 2 valves. One to regulate, one juz to switch on or off.

[kucari]

anybody does community service chain oiler...?

i mean install in on my bike with minimal fee?

[Limsteel]

I organised 1 DIY session but only 1 GSR turn up All very interested ask them to come down do together only 1 turn up...

 

lucky for me, I had something to do... else Liao Chor!

[kucari]

alamak....i must have missed it..

do inform me if u want 2 organize again!

[Nighthawk_250]

Did one myself. Epoxy is the only way to go if u want to have a leak proof system.

 

Bought mine $25 in this forum way back, use after sometime it leaks and gets real messy.

[Limsteel]

That why this is a DIY sub forum... not a place to sell DIY stuff @ $25

 

I am always willing to help, not by doing it for you. I can help you help yourself!

 

anyway here is the list of things need (tools wise pls be creative and use what ever necessary)

 

Oil reservior - any container big enough for you and small enough to fit where ever you wanna put (GSR can only use those Film container under the seat)

 

Oil line - go to fish shop get those rubber hose meant for air pump. buy a metre or two

 

Valves - while at the fish shop, buy a regulator valve (usually green), an On/Off valve (those metal ones), and a few connectors (1 in 1 out). all are air pumps accessories

 

Hanger - sneak one metal cloth hanger out of your home. (or any flexible metal rod thin enough to go thru the air tube without choking.

 

Glue - expoxy and silicon (slow process). super glue (fast and effective)...

 

cable ties...

 

All set to go...

- Puncture a hole on the container and push the regulator valve (glue)

- connect and run the oil tube down to along the side fairing.

- oil tube should Emerge at the foot paddle area. put in the on/off valve.

- Unwind the cloth hangar, push it through the air tube. Then bend it according to the path to the rear sprocket. This will serve as the bone of the oil line, without it the rubber tube cannot retain the shape. Connect to the on/off valve.

- Then using the small section WD40 application tube (up to your judgement). attached to the plastic connector (1 in - 1 out extention) use glue to secure.

- now attach the connector to the end part of the oil line.

- Top up the oil into your oil reservoir, fully open both valves. suck on the end of the oil line. this is to start the oil moving, once the Oil flow starts, let gravity do the work! ENSURE THERE IS NO AIR TRAP ALONG THE OIL LINE, else the oil flow rate will be erratic. once the oil is about to reach the sprokets close on/off the valve.

- now fine tune the shape of the oil line and secure to swing arm using several cable tie (2 or 3 not too many, it will look ugly)

- Finally place a can under, open the on/off valve. Using the green regulator fine tune the oil flow. BE PATIENT ensure only 1 drop or less a min (take your time to do this, you can still tune it during day to day riding). TOO MUCH FLOW, you will see oil everywhere on your bike!

- Ultimately, your will get the oil flow you want... drop a few drops of super glue on the regulator valve screw thread and make it a permanent setting!

 

End! any questions can pose here, I believe many here can help!

 

Some people might be interested in Dual oiler , buy a Y connector (1in - 2out, also at fish shop). connect them to lube side of the sprockets HO SAY LIAO!

[gilbe3]

Firstly a big thank you to Limsteel for giving me some verbal explantions about his DIY oiler. I was lucky to be able to see the pictures of his deleted thread. With Limsteel's help, I was able to make a DIY oiler seven months ago and it is still working PERFECTLY! So for those who are keen and not too lazy to do, here are some of my contributions:

1. You got to do it yourself so that you can maintain or further improve your oiler.

2. For me, I used waterproof cement to glue the necessary parts. I also find that it is better to roughen the suface to get a better grip (for cement)

3. I did not apply glue to seal the regulator dead. Instead I used correction ink to mark a dot on the screwing cap of the regulator. This dot represents 1 drop of oil a minute. In this way I can regulate the flow if I want to.

4. To make a good joint, use those white tape (for tap use) on the connectors before joining it to the rubbber tubes. For more kiasu people like me, I then use thin copper wires to tighten the parts that are joined.

5. I did not use the WD red tube. Instead my white transparent tube touches the sprocket directly. I find that this is better cos the red tube may be dislodged after sometime.

6. Between the regulator and the on/off regulator, I used rubberied tube (green in colour) and not those transparent types. The green rubber tube is more flexible than the transparent ones (more stiff). This is to allow for some movement as the swing arm moves up and down when the bike is in motion.

So you guys, good luck to your DIY oiler. My oiler costs me less than 4 dollars. It works so well that when I sold my bike, I was unwilling to to give it to the buyer. I wanted the buyer to make one himself. It was also a very satisfying personal effort. $4 vs $180 Scottoiler! Thank you once again to Limsteel!

[mi5trooper]

i think there is a reason for scottoiler lah. maybe the oil they use also got reason one. i am using "DIY" type of oiler too. I find that it is kind of messy/oily on the swing-arm. got 1 time, i say big oil drip out near my shifter level. i though die liao, engine oil leak. now i come to think of it, it must be too many oil use on the chain that it goes to the small spoket and start dripping. becos it didnt drip the next day.

 

(if it is engine oil leak, then the next day should be still dripping mah).

 

just for info sharing only.