Adding little 2T oil into fuel tank for 4-stroke bike and feel the smoothness

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

Is it recommanded to add 2T into fuel tank for 2 stroke bike?

 

sound logical

[Sky99]

Why would you wanna do that? You bike should have a 2T reservior and pump to feed the required amount of 2T. Unless you have faulty 2T pump, or you want to feed extra 2T due to extreme high speed (Racing) or long distance (touring). Else I dont see the point, even when many 2 Stroke riders are doing it...

 

Thought it will slightly improve the power or something

[SparkerS1]

Is it recommanded to add 2T into fuel tank for 2 stroke bike?

 

Yes, one capful of 2T every full tank of petrol you pumped if you have the 2T reservoir.

 

For those 2 strokers wifout 2T reservoir is still premix as normal.

[CSV]

Based on my bike label, it recommends Ron95. but several web site all stated Ron91 is sufficient, here is one . My usual cruise speed is around 90-110km/h, I rarely do high acceleration pickup. I started off with premium, then lower to 98 then 95, don't feel much diff. Drop it to 92 (and it is SPC) and I still don't feel much different. People kept telling me that Ron92 is really powerless (even worst for SPC). My butt dyno tells me there are no significant different. That's maybe why I can't feel anything different after adding 2T.

 

I am using the Castrol 2T gold bottle from LABs, Added 26ml to my 17liter tank (1.5ml 2T per liter of petrol). My bike aren't behaving abnormally. Morning, Afternoon, Night start - OK. Engine run as usual, but I think it sounded quieter, and feels slightly smoother (Psycho effect?? I really donno). Just did a 74Km round isle yesterday (SengKang, TPE, SLE, BKE, PIE, AYE, exit Lower Delta - World Trade Ctr - Telok Blangah Hill - Telok Blangah Cr - Lower Delta, ECP, KPE, Hougang, SengKang). All in order.

 

Will be trying out the ASNU service after a few session of 2T (to clean my injector), so I don't mind trying it to see if it really clogs up my injectors through I feel the duration might be too short to show any significant clogging.

 

kudos to you. i am using same 2t as you. for me, i get improved fuel efficiency. though its not constant, which i attribute to my riding style for that tank of fuel. it is much easier to get higher fuel efficiency with the 2t infused petrol though.

[ooitn]

2T same as many other engine oil...is a lubricative component.

you can add any oil into the engine, cooking oil, gear box oil the result will be the same..piston moves smoother that is why you get the feeling of smoother, quieter and due to the smoothness, better FC is obtained.

 

Now, 4 strock engine asked to fill 4T into the sump, not into the combustion chamber, why..because the combustion chamber must stay clean after each combustion, ZERO residue the best...but this is not possible..carbon surely happened so the recommendation is to use high grade of petrol..higher grade petrol burns more throughly the lower one, no much in power generation, just like red flame and blue flame..if you know.

 

by feeding 2T into fuel tank means direct feeding of engine oil into the combustion chamber: Good is that better lubrication effect like what most of you had felt. Bad is that more ingrediant is added into burning. Engine oil(cooking oil lagi worst) burn slower then petrol, so more residue is created. Those that not able to exhaust out would be left in the chamber to be GRIND by the piston..ho sei liao.

 

And adding 2T direct in to the fueling system face one more risk: oil do not flow as well as petrol in tiny pipe line or injection system, if allow to left under prolong time in this pipelines , might clock the lines....

[lauhs8]

Lets calculate the cost saving portion then ones will realise if it is worth while or not. Good luck.

[byte77]

2T same as many other engine oil...is a lubricative component.

 

by feeding 2T into fuel tank means direct feeding of engine oil into the combustion chamber: Good is that better lubrication effect like what most of you had felt. Bad is that more ingrediant is added into burning. Engine oil(cooking oil lagi worst) burn slower then petrol, so more residue is created. Those that not able to exhaust out would be left in the chamber to be GRIND by the piston..ho sei liao.

 

And adding 2T direct in to the fueling system face one more risk: oil do not flow as well as petrol in tiny pipe line or injection system, if allow to left under prolong time in this pipelines , might clock the lines....

 

2T oil is different from 4T oil as it is made to lubricate as well as clean burning.

If the 2ml/1L ratio can clog the fuel line, those car drivers would have complained it.

 

Pls read the functions of 2T oil: http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/320565-Adding-little-2T-oil-into-fuel-tank-for-4-stroke-bike-and-feel-the-smoothness?p=7057344&viewfull=1#post7057344

Edited October 25, 2011 by byte77

[ooitn]

2T oil is different from 4T oil as it is made to lubricate as well as clean burning.

 

Pls read : http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/320565-Adding-little-2T-oil-into-fuel-tank-for-4-stroke-bike-and-feel-the-smoothness?p=7057344&viewfull=1#post7057344

 

Next advise will be at cost...

First, do you know the different between 2 stroke engine and 4 stroke? if not go get this knowledge first.

2 Stroke engine do not self lub better the 4 stroke because it got shorter cycle or 2 actions at the same time, more problematic in lub and clean. So 2T oil is formulated. 2 stroke engine exhaust twice as much as 4 stroke, so any residue should be better exhausted out.

 

for 2T in 2 stroke engine is not prefered but something like BO PIAN...can't do without it.

 

 

if you add 2T into 4 stroke engine:[protection against the build up of carbon deposits on the engine and spark plug] this will wrosten.

[protection against exhaust system blocking] this will also worsten.

with all the beautiful and power advertise statement only means one thing, the problem is there, just their oil is better. So of no 2T oil in your chamber, zero problem, no worry!

 

So keep chaging 4T is the best for 4 stroke engine, even 2T manufactory fo not recommend it to 4 stroke, why should you?

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

ref http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/piston_diag_guide.htm [TABLE=width: 100%]

[TR]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/lam_logo.gif

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/lam_logo.gif

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/lam_logo.gif

[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

[TABLE=width: 98%, align: left]

[TR]

[TD=align: center]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/lloydys_lambrettas_3D.gif

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: right]Two Stroke Piston Diagnosis

[TABLE=width: 859]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]The process of examining a used piston can tell a mechanic helpful information on the condition of an engine. When an engine failure occurs, the piston is likely to take the brunt of the damage. A careful examination of the piston can help a mechanic trace the source of a mechanical or tuning problem. This technical article serves as a guide for the most common mechanical problems that plague engines.

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]PERFECT BROWN CROWN

The crown of this piston shows an ideal carbon pattern. The transfer ports of this two-stroke engine are flowing equally and the colour of the carbon pattern is chocolate brown. That indicates that this engine's carb is jetted correctly.

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston14.jpg

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]BLACK SPOT HOT

The underside of this piston has a black spot. The black spot is a carbon deposit that resulted from pre-mix oil burning on to the piston because the piston's crown was too hot. The main reasons for this problem are overheating due to too lean carb jetting or coolant system failure.

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston15.jpg

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]ASH TRASH

This piston crown has an ash color, which shows that the engine has run hot. The ash color is actually piston material that has started to flash (melt) and turned to tiny flakes. If this engine was run any longer, it probably would,ve developed a hot spot and hole near the exhaust side and failed. The main causes of this problem are too lean carb jetting, too hot spark plug range, too far advanced ignition timing, too much compression for the fuel's octane, or a general overheating problem.

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston16.jpg

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]SMASHED DEBRIS

This piston crown has been damaged because debris entered the combustion chamber and was crushed between the piston and the cylinder head. This engine had a corresponding damage pattern on the head's squish band. The common causes of this problem are broken needle bearings from the small or big end bearings of the connecting rod, broken ring ends, or a dislodged ring centering pin. When A problem like this occurs, its important to locate where the debris originated. Also the crankcases must be flushed out to remove any left over debris that could cause the same damage again. If the debris originated from the big end of the connecting rod, then the crankshaft should be replaced along with the main bearings and seals.

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston17.jpg

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]CHIPPED CROWN DROWNED

This piston crown chipped at the top ring groove because of a head gasket leak. The coolant is drawn into the combustion chamber on the down-stroke of the piston. When the coolant hits the piston crown it makes the aluminium brittle and it eventually cracks. In extreme cases the head gasket leak can cause erosion at the top edge of the cylinder and the corresponding area of the head. Minor leaks of the gasket or o-ring appear as black spots across the gasket surface. An engine that suffers from coolant being pressurized and forced out of the radiator cap's vent tube, is a strong indication of a head gasket leak. In most cases the top of the cylinder and the face of the cylinder head must be resurfaced when a leak occurs. Most mx bikes have head stays mounting the head to the frame. Over time the head can become warped near the head stay mounting tab, because of the forces transferred through the frame from the top shock mount. It's important to check for warpage of the head every time you rebuild the top end.

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston18.jpg

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]SHATTERED SKIRT

The skirts of this piston shattered because the piston to cylinder clearance was too great. When the piston is allowed to rattle in the cylinder bore, it develops stress cracks and eventually shatters.

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston19.jpg

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]SNAPPED ROD

The connecting rod of this engine snapped in half because the clearance between the rod and the thrust washers of the big end was too great. When the big end bearing wears out, the radial deflection of the rod becomes excessive and the rod suffers from torsion vibration. This leads to connecting rod breakage and catastrophic engine damage. The big end clearance should be checked every time you rebuild the top end. To check the side clearance of the connecting rod, insert a feeler gauge between the rod and a thrust washer. Check the maximum wear limits in your engine's factory service manual.

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston20.jpg

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]FOUR-CORNER SEIZURE

This piston has vertical seizure marks at four equally spaced points around the circumference. A four-corner seizure is caused when the piston expands faster than the cylinder and the clearance between the piston and cylinder is reduced. Another common problem of this type is a single point seizure on the center of the exhaust side of the piston. However this occurs only on cylinders with bridged exhaust ports. The main causes for this problem are too quick warm-up, too lean carb jetting (main jet), or too hot of a spark plug range.

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston21.jpg

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]MULTI-POINT SEIZURE

This piston has many vertical seizure marks around the circumference. This cylinder was bored to a diameter that was too small for the piston. As soon as the engine started and the piston started its thermal expansion, the piston pressed up against the cylinder walls and seized. The optimum piston to cylinder wall clearances for different types of cylinders vary greatly. For example a 50cc composite plated cylinder can use a piston to cylinder wall clearance of .0015 inches, whereas a 1200cc steel-sleeved cylinder snowmobile set-up for grass drags will need between .0055 to .0075 inches. For the best recommendation on the optimum piston to cylinder clearance for your engine, look to the specs that come packaged with the piston or consult your factory service manual.

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston22.jpg

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]INTAKE SIDE SEIZURE

This piston was seized on the intake side. This is very uncommon and is caused by only one thing, loss of lubrication. There are three possible causes for loss of lubrication, no pre-mix oil, separation of the fuel and pre-mix oil in the fuel tank, water passed through the air-filter and washed the oil film off the piston skirt.

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston23.jpg

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]COMPOSITE FLAKING

Most two-stroke cylinders used on motorcycles and snowmobiles, have composite plated cylinders. The composite material is made of tiny silicon carbide particles. The electro-plating process enables the silicon carbide particles to bond to the cylinder wall. The particles are very hard and sharp, they don't bond to the ports so the manufacturer or reconditioning specialist must thoroughly clean the cylinder. Sometimes the silicon carbide "flashing" breaks loose from the ports and becomes wedged between the cylinder and the piston. This causes tiny vertical scratches in the piston. This problem isn't necessarily dangerous and doesn't cause catastrophic piston failure, but it should be addressed by thoroughly flushing the cylinder and ball-honing the bore to redefine the cross-hatching marks. Normally you will need to replace the piston kit because the scratches will reduce the piston's diameter beyond the wear spec.

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston24.jpg

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]BURNT-OUT BLOW-HOLE

This piston was overheated so badly that a hole melted through the crown and collapsed the ring grooves on the exhaust side. Normally the piston temperature is higher on the exhaust side so catastrophic problems will appear there first. There are several reasons for a failure like this, here are the most common; air-leak at the magneto side crankshaft seal, too lean carb jetting, too far advanced ignition timing or faulty igniter box, too hot of a spark plug range, too high of a compression ratio, too low octane fuel.

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston25.jpg

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD]BLOW-BY

This piston didn't fail in operation but it does show the most common problem, blow-by. The rings were worn past the maximum ring end gap spec, allowing combustion pressure to seep past the rings and down the piston skirt causing a distinct carbon pattern. Its possible that the cylinder walls cross-hatched honing pattern is partly to blame. If the cylinder walls are glazed or worn too far, even new rings won't seal properly to prevent a blow-by problem. Flex-Hones is a product available at most auto parts stores. They can be used to remove oil glazing and restore cross-hatch honing marks that enable the rings to wear to the cylinder and form a good seal. If you purchase a Flex-Hone for your cylinder, the proper grit is 240 and the size should be 10% smaller than the bore diameter.

[/TD]

[TD]http://www.smellofdeath.com/lloydy/images/piston26.jpg

[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=colspan: 2]

---

11 TIPS FOR REBUILDING A TWO-STROKE TOP END

 

1. Before you disassemble your engine, power-wash the engine and the rest of the vehicle. That will reduce the risk of dirt and debris falling into the engine. Once you remove the cylinder, stuff a clean rag down into the crankcases.
   
2. The cylinder and head use alignment pins to hold them straight in position from the crankcases on up. The pins make it difficult to remove the cylinder from the cases and the head from the cylinder. Sometimes the steel alignment pins corrode into the aluminum engine components. Try spraying penetrating-oil down the mounting studs before attempting to remove the cylinder and head. Never use a flat-blade screwdriver, chisel, or metal hammer to remove the cylinder. Instead use this technique; buy a lead-shot plastic mallet, swing it at a 45-degree angle upwards against the sides of the cylinder. Alternate from left to right, hitting the sides of the cylinder to separate it from the cases evenly. Clean the steel alignment pins with steel wool and penetrating-oil. Examine the pins closely. If they are deformed in shape, they won't allow the engine parts to bolt together tightly. This can cause a dangerous air leak or a coolant leak. The pins are cheap at about $2/£1 each. Replace them if they're rusty or deformed.
   
3. Never re-use old gaskets. Remove them with a razor blade or gasket scraper. Don't use a drill-driven steel wool type pad to remove old gaskets because they can remove aluminium from the cylinder and head. That will cause a gasket to leak.
   
4. Always check the ring end gap on a new ring by placing it in the cylinder between the head gasket surface and the exhaust port. The gap should be between .012 to .024 inches.
   
5. Always install the circlips with the opening facing straight up or down, that way inertia will hold it tight into the clip groove. Place one clip in the groove before installing the piston on the connecting rod. Its easier to install a clip with the piston in your hand rather than on the rod. There also less chance that you'll drop the circlip in the crankcases.
   
6. Always install the rings on the piston with the markings facing up. Coat the rings with pre-mix oil so they can slide in the groove when trying to install the piston in the cylinder.
   
7. Always install the piston on the connecting rod with the arrow on the piston crown facing towards the exhaust port.
   
8. The traditional way to assemble the top end is to install the piston assembly on the connecting rod, compress the rings, and slide the cylinder over the piston. That can be difficult with larger bore cylinders, or if you're working by yourself. Try this method instead. Install one circlip in the piston, install the piston into the cylinder with the pin hole exposed, install the piston pin through one side of the piston, position the cylinder over the connecting rod and push the piston pin through until it bottoms against the circlip, install the other circlip. It only takes two hands to install the top end using this manor and there is less chance that you,ll damage the rings by twisting the cylinder upon installation.
   
9. On cylinders with reed valves and large oval intake ports, take care when installing the piston assembly in the cylinder because the rings are likely to squeeze out of the ring grooves. Use a flat-blade screwdriver to gently push the rings back in the grooves so the piston assembly can pass by the intake port.
   
10. For steel head gaskets, place the round side of the "bump" facing up. Don't use liquid gasket sealer, use aerosol spray adhesive types instead. For hybrid fibre/steel ring head gaskets, place the wide side of the steel rings facing down.
    
11. When you initially start the engine after a rebuild, manipulate the choke to keep the engine rpm relatively low. Once the engine is warm enough to take it off choke, drive the vehicle around on flat hard ground. Keep it under 2/3 throttle for the first 30 minutes. Two common myths for proper engine break-in are:
    


1. Set the engine at a fast idle, stationary on a stand.
   
2. Add extra pre-mix oil to the fuel. When the engine is on a stand it doesn't have any air passing through the radiator and it is in danger of running too hot. When you add extra oil to the fuel you are effectively leaning the carb jetting. This can make the engine run hotter and seize.
   

*this complete article was blatantly stolen from Eric Gor, gotta love the internet!

 

[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

 

notice the oil return hole. if it choke, after adding 2t , pls don't stop hor.... the 2 t will be the only lubrication as the 4 t oil cannot flow liao......

 

but 2 t is good for controlling the rust in the fuel tank....so how?

 

our bike our decision.....cheers

 

I am waiting to our brothers who had start experimenting to open up and see the piston.... to verify will the 4 stroke bike will or will not end up like the 2 stroke piston , so far the internet shown nothing, so for those who only have theory pls ..... there were a couple of posting alreadi , no need to repeat....

[ezzyoiler]

wow...thank you for this wonderful url....

hope those leaning the engine fuel mix...dont end up like that..

 

thos who bother to read through the article...lean mix has been mentioned so many times i lost count..

 

thats a price to pay ...for not following reccommended practices,,,

 

by the way...the article has no supporting test or statistics hoh...and some may point ..its a 2 stroke engine man..not a 4 stroke.

[icewater]

Seems like the theory is that 2T(actually probably any other lubricating oil will work) is lubricating the top side of the piston,valves and chamber housing etc resulting in a smoother ride and pehaps even fuel saving.

 

In small quantity, hopefully it can be completely purged/removed via the exhaust or else it will eventually clog up something. If it DID get completely purged/removed, then there should not be much harm to the engine. Anyway, large amount is definately a No No. The key is to find THAT small amount that can be purged out but not so small an amount that it cannot be "felt" (Probably varies for different bikes and riding style).

 

I would think...

 

Smaller CC bikes has more benefit to try this as they need the smoothness and are cheaper to overhaul if needed. Bikes that runs at a higher RPM also has a higher chance of purging the residues. Phantoms/cubs which probably has their pistons near "flying out" at 140kmh will find this option attractive. Super4/Impulse being inline4 typically runs at quite a high RPM of 6000~7000 at 100kmh so they would probably stand a better chance of being able to purge out the residues if they ride hard enough.

 

Bigger CC bikes are usually already quite smooth and are expensive to overhaul. I don't think it will be worthwhile to try adding 2T. Furthermore,I think it can be quite a hassle to carry a bottle of 2T around to add a precise little amount every time a refueling is done. The benefit is just not there. Going at 100kmh or 140kmh is really not much to a big bike such that they need the extra smoothness.

 

So depending on what bikes you ride, 2T may or may not be worth the effort.

 

My opnions on this very interesting thread.

Edited October 26, 2011 by icewater

[ooitn]

ChaoPuzzy1968 got a good point on the piston. But the rust in the tank wouldn't help by adding 2T, it is mostly kept rust free by the petrol. So if bike needs to keep for long time, remember to fill full tank. (btw your name is ..can change or not?)

 

Icewater got a clear picture on how 2 Stroke engine works, but I want to point out the below:

 

1) 2 stroke engine got better exhaust result then 4 stroke is that they do not have valves, 4 stroke comes with many valves, from 2 to 4 to now 5, may be 6 in the future, the problem with valves are tight fitting is required, a bit of carbon residue will give problems, 2 stroke just like fart..so **** in the exhaust hole also no big deal. So your statement on completely purged out should be think again.

2) Even 4 stroke engine is making 6000rpm, the exhaust only happen 6000/4= 1500times, not as frequent as you might think, and for burnt oil stay in the burst chamber for so long bad+bad...

3) No matter how small amount of 2T add into 4 stroke engine...only do more harm then good.

 

this is a good link to understand 2 stroke works, remember no oil sump for 2 stroke, due to the opening for exhaust and intake, note that 2 stroke exhaust so well that unburnt oil can be exhausted out.

 

http://science.howstuffworks.com/transport/engines-equipment/two-stroke.htm

[byte77]

1) 2 stroke engine got better exhaust result then 4 stroke is that they do not have valves, 4 stroke comes with many valves, from 2 to 4 to now 5, may be 6 in the future, the problem with valves are tight fitting is required, a bit of carbon residue will give problems, 2 stroke just like fart..so **** in the exhaust hole also no big deal. So your statement on completely purged out should be think again.

 

 

 

Where do you think the "a bit of carbon residue" come from?

Is that in your mind that the carbon residue comes from "unclean burning" of 2T oil?

 

2 stroke engine requires typically 1:40 of 2T : petrol ratio, whereas many US and european drivers and us use only 1:500 ratio in 4 stroke car/motorcycle engine, and US diesel engine drivers find it optimum at 1:200. The complex diesel engines are even reported to produce significant lesser smoke after using 2T.

 

The scented white smoke produced by 2 stroke engine not only consist of scented 2T oil, but also petrol.

See, 2.5% of the materials combusted is 2T oil, the rest 97.5% is petrol.

Even when not using 2T in 4 stroke engine, when the engine is running rich i.e. more petrol, it can cause significant carbon residue on spark plug.

 

2T oil burns clean at small ratio, rich fuel causes black carbon residue, these two are the facts you must digest first.

Edited October 27, 2011 by byte77

[ezzyoiler]

i conducted a simple test...

burning paper

burning petrol

burning 2t.

 

 

newspaper were dose with petrol and 2 t seperately...

 

burn newspaper as is...white smoke seen..

 

burn petrol in news paper....burn very fast with little smoke ..

 

burn 2t in news paper...burn as slow as newspaper but BLACK SMOKE..PHEW..

 

 

CONCLUSION" : my 2t burns with a lot of smoke

take note this test is not tested statiscally...nor doe..

does not mean anything..only that my 2t burns with a lot of black smoke..

maybe your ashless..fully synthectic..expensive 2t may produce a clean burn..

 

 

my test is for my curiosity only..

[Limsteel]

Burning newspaper?? you got to be kidding... Here, riders are adding ~0.2% 2T, my recent 2T addition is at 0.15%+ (16ltr+ petrol : ~26ml 2T) we are not running our engine on 2T oil alone. So your test is abit off.

 

Gotta be careful when you burn newspaper, police might arrest you for arson. Then there will be 1 less skeptic providing alternative views here.

[ezzyoiler]

ha ha...

the test is for my curiosity only....nothing scientific...proves nothing..

 

ho ho

 

some wanted a ban

now a warrent of arrest may be issued against me....haha..

 

iwas wondering ..what next??

a hit man to silence me...???:faint:

[ooitn]

Where do you think the "a bit of carbon residue" come from?

Is that in your mind that the carbon residue comes from "unclean burning" of 2T oil?

 

2 stroke engine requires typically 1:40 of 2T : petrol ratio, whereas many US and european drivers and us use only 1:500 ratio in 4 stroke car/motorcycle engine, and US diesel engine drivers find it optimum at 1:200. The complex diesel engines are even reported to produce significant lesser smoke after using 2T.

 

The scented white smoke produced by 2 stroke engine not only consist of scented 2T oil, but also petrol.

See, 2.5% of the materials combusted is 2T oil, the rest 97.5% is petrol.

Even when not using 2T in 4 stroke engine, when the engine is running rich i.e. more petrol, it can cause significant carbon residue on spark plug.

 

2T oil burns clean at small ratio, rich fuel causes black carbon residue, these two are the facts you must digest first.

 

Is your bike, one can add any thing in it, I am just providing knowledge base fact.

[small ratio of 2T help:] what is the base of this? from manufactorer? AMA??how small is small

This is many factor deciding performance and life of engine, lean rich setting is one of them, but we are talking adding 2T here.

 

My thought (only mine) is that:

-Do not add unnecessorily any thing into a already good system. No 2T no possible problem.

-If you are going for a race, the one time usage of engine determine you future...add everything in it to win...even 2T or 4T into the tank.

Just never add water...hehehe

 

Smoking(white) from exhaust is totally another knowledge or discuusion field.

Is more on temperture differences...

Black smoke...Carbon clearing.

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

Npnt!!!!.......

[kinwei]

Wah, so happening here. Some ppl ride 4 stroke because of the hassle free of adding 2T to their bike. Now got ppl want the hassle back by adding back 2T. Funny thing ppl do.....

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

Wah, so happening here. Some ppl ride 4 stroke because of the hassle free of adding 2T to their bike. Now got ppl want the hassle back by adding back 2T. Funny thing ppl do.....

 

We are bikers...we do the darnedest things...

[ezzyoiler]

warning..........................do not open file..

Edited October 27, 2011 by ezzyoiler

[ezzyoiler]

wow....a disposable loo on the go...while riding..
who is the model.?...wow...............great specimen...

 

 

warning warning...graphic details may upset you...do not open file if you are not open minded...

hey chaopzzz...get ready for complains...

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

wow....a disposable loo on the go...while riding..

who is the model.?...wow...............great specimen...

 

 

warning warning...graphic details may upset you...do not open file if you are not open minded...

hey chaopzzz...get ready for complains...

 

opps...........WE R SPATAR!!!!!

[byte77]

Updated the #1 post with more feedbacks sourced from the internet.

 

There's one solid feedback from an UK rider:

 

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-91206/index45.html#post2551911

 

 

Greetings all from the UK

 

After reading all about the addition of 2 stroke oil to your fuel I gave it a try on my motorcycle. Its a parallel twin with separate CV carbs. No fancy injection or anything.

 

I cant offer any scientific data but one thing is very obvious, the mpg has improved. I get an extra 3 or 4 mpg. Also after a couple of tanks of fuel the idle was higher and I had to adjust it down. After the summer I removed the head and there is very little carbon anywhere. There is a very light film of oil to the upper surface of the piston and walls. Its not visible but when you wipe your finger over its definitely an oil film. Plugs are the cleanest I have ever seen them.

 

TC-W3 is available over here but its mainly sold as marine oil and has a high premium for some reason. The spec here to look for is JASO-FC or FD. Also ISO-L-EGC or D. This actually exceeds TC-W3 spec and has very high lube and ashless properties.

You may have this stuff over there as the specs are international. People use it in diesel a lot to make up for the low sulphur content. Its reported to help mpg and lube all the HP pumps. It also cleans out all the crud and keeps the EGR clean. Safe for DPF as well.

 

Cheapest I could find was 'Ryobi' 2 stroke oil. It meets the JASO spec and is sold for brushcutters, chainsaws etc. You may have it over there.

 

I like the extra mpg and for me the benefit is in longevity of the engine with consistent performance. I also found that it keeps my carbs clean. I used to have some corrosion in the carbs with the odd stuck float needle now and again. Since using this oil its all clean as a whistle. I could have used dry fuel to combat this but the oil seems to do equally well.

 

Its all metric system over here. This means to use your correct ratios its 2ml of oil to every litre.

 

Edited October 27, 2011 by byte77