Adding little 2T oil into fuel tank for 4-stroke bike and feel the smoothness

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

ooi bro .... habent add 2t yet lah

[kinwei]

Sooo... who won? 2T supporter or Non-2T supporter? Got prize for winner?

 

My opinion, those who believe it works, just let them use lor. Since it is their machine. For me, I'm neither. I'm just plain lazy to put addtional stuff in my petrol. I have tried using those fuel additive like EP60, after 1 or 2 tank, I will forget to put. Beside I find my bike smooth and powerful enough liao.

 

So whos with me on the lazy camp? LOL....

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

Sooo... who won? 2T supporter or Non-2T supporter? Got prize for winner?

 

My opinion, those who believe it works, just let them use lor. Since it is their machine. For me, I'm neither. I'm just plain lazy to put addtional stuff in my petrol. I have tried using those fuel additive like EP60, after 1 or 2 tank, I will forget to put. Beside I find my bike smooth and powerful enough liao.

 

So whos with me on the lazy camp? LOL....

 

too few info in the net , I like to find out why , just contributing my part with pics to see the effect after 6k km or 6 mth later anyway, my bike just pass inspection so the experiment will still give me enough time to clear the next 6 mth for the next inspection. ( i could also do some valve clearance and piston servicing at the end of the experiment)

 

The ride DO feel smoother, but this effect for me is not much apreciated on a thumper..(lame)

[stsoh]

ash-less on your 2T oil bottle mean there are no heavy metal detergent that burn to a heavy metal salt(ash) to be use for engine with lower combusion temperature. it does not mean there will be no residue after burning. Residue and ash are quite 2 different things as it definition can be quite board.

 

a simple test conducted, burn 2t oil with lighter torch (blue flame type).

resulted: black stain, no residue (if black stain considered as residue).

[kinwei]

too few info in the net , I like to find out why , just contributing my part with pics to see the effect after 6k km or 6 mth later anyway, my bike just pass inspection so the experiment will still give me enough time to clear the next 6 mth for the next inspection. ( i could also do some valve clearance and piston servicing at the end of the experiment)

 

The ride DO feel smoother, but this effect for me is not much apreciated on a thumper..(lame)

 

Hahaha, macham like Myth Buster. Anyway all for the sake of the truth.

[Isopropyl]

a simple test conducted, burn 2t oil with lighter torch (blue flame type).

resulted: black stain, no residue (if black stain considered as residue).

 

almost there. make a guess, what cause the black stain:cool:

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

almost there. make a guess, what cause the black stain:cool:

 

let me guess pls........the thing to lubricate the piston....

[Isopropyl]

let me guess pls........the thing to lubricate the piston....

 

correct!!! as least used to... it the by-product of it. all of us know that things don't just turn black for no reason. it residue in a board term!!!

 

one interesting product worth mentioning is FP60/FP60 plus. one oil analysis company owner once mention that FP60/FP60 plus seem to turn carbon to a lubricating substance. he was amaze by it lubrication properties.

 

out of so many oil additives he tested, he mention only FP60/FP60 plus and Chevron concentrate plus seem to work well. the rest have the tendency to attack soft metal.

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

correct!!! as least used to... it the by-product of it. all of us know that things don't just turn black for no reason. it residue in a board term!!!

 

one interesting product worth mentioning is FP60/FP60 plus. one oil analysis company owner once mention that FP60/FP60 plus seem to turn carbon to a lubricating substance. he was amaze by it lubrication properties.

 

out of so many oil additives he tested, he mention only FP60/FP60 plus and Chevron concentrate plus seem to work well. the rest have the tendency to attack soft metal.

 

ooi r u trying to sell something too

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk

[byte77]

a simple test conducted, burn 2t oil with lighter torch (blue flame type).

resulted: black stain, no residue (if black stain considered as residue).

 

 

http://www.singaporebikes.com/forums/showthread.php/320565-Adding-little-2T-oil-into-fuel-tank-for-4-stroke-bike-and-feel-the-smoothness?p=7344139&viewfull=1#post7344139

[Isopropyl]

ooi r u trying to sell something too

 

Sent from my GT-P1000 using Tapatalk

 

nope. i have nothing to sell. but i do wish that i own chevron:sian:

[ooitn]

Well..let don't get things complicated, if the user manual of your bike doesn't call for adding 2T in your thank, then it is totally no harm for you not to adding it...add on you own risk as the manufacturer will not entertain any claim on the problem arose by the action.

 

But I think there is a time for 4 stroke bikes to add or should I say apply 2T, not in the tank but into the cyclinder directly.

In cold country they got this winterisation of bike, here we may call it "rainirise" the bike or in short if you gonna store your bike for long period..you can apply some 2T(in the book it calls for EO)in the cyclinder to prevent rusting after prolong time of storage...2T may be the better option as it will combust away easier....my 2 cent thought

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

Well..let don't get things complicated, if the user manual of your bike doesn't call for adding 2T in your thank, then it is totally no harm for you not to adding it...add on you own risk as the manufacturer will not entertain any claim on the problem arose by the action.

 

But I think there is a time for 4 stroke bikes to add or should I say apply 2T, not in the tank but into the cyclinder directly.

In cold country they got this winterisation of bike, here we may call it "rainirise" the bike or in short if you gonna store your bike for long period..you can apply some 2T(in the book it calls for EO)in the cyclinder to prevent rusting after prolong time of storage...2T may be the better option as it will combust away easier....my 2 cent thought

 

There was a very detail and vigorous disgustion done earlier but all was talk and no picture with the exception of Bruther hydher

 

I tried conduction a search on the internet on the effect on adding 2t on a 4 stroke engine and so far nothing, except again is all talk no pictures.

 

I had taken a picture of the spark plug without 2t after 6k km , and i intend to do a regime of of 5ml / ltre and then after 6k strip the top and take a few picture to help whoever want to or not want to take the risk.

 

I did talk to my mechanic before deciding to embark on this venture to help service the out of warranty thump-er. HE likes old school.

[CSV]

more updates on fuel consumption.

 

this is for 2t infused petrol, with recently serviced bike and air filter.

 

35.8km after switching to ron 92 from 95.

 

previously, without 2t infused petrol but with recently serviced bike, Fc was also 35.23km.

 

no real clear effect with the 2t eh?

 

i am not sure, but my experience putting 2t all this while appears to me that it does smooth out the bike MARGINALLY, and fuel consumption to improve slightly. I have seen fc from 41km to 35km with 2t. whereas without 2t, ranged from 40-32km/l

[Hydher]

Yes, from my observation is the smoothness and better fc.

[ooitn]

I asked a pro...below is the answer, Please read...

 

 

=======================================================

 

Hi there,

 

It is a NOT recommended.

 

2-stroke oil has a very short working life, straight in and out, and itgets burnt. The 2-stroke engine doesn't have a sump full of oil and thebearings are all rollers, so there's hardly any oil drag, hence no needfor multi-grades. Long term stability is obviously not a problem! But,2-stroke must burn off without leaving any plug-fouling ordetonation-initiating deposits. The detergent and anti-wear additivesused in 4-stroke oil leave hard white ash behind when they burn, justwhat you do NOT need in a 2-stroke. So 2-stroke oils use low-ashdetergents and dispersants, and the better types use ester synthetics toact as anti-wear compounds. With current environmental concerns, smokeis a sensitive issue, so most 'road' 2-stroke oils are now low smoke,which requires yet another type of synthetic base designed to burn offinvisibly. For some rather basic but very high-revving air-cooled racing2-strokes there's still some sense in using blends with that marvellousanti-seize liquid, castor oil! Due to crankcase induction and compression, the classical 2-strokeobviously cannot have an oil-filled sump, so the only way to keep an oilfilm on anything was to add oil to the fuel, or inject oil into thecrankcase space where it could mix with the fuel vapour. There are nowsome engines where the fuel and oil are injected separately, but the oilis still burnt. 4T oils are designed to last much longer and contain lots ofmulti-functional additives including anti-oxidants, anti-wear andcorrosion inhibitors.

 

Best regards,

 

Harry Lim

Automotive R&D and Customer Service ChemistFuchs Lubricants (UK) PLC

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

Readed again all talk at something else no direct demonstration on 2t effect on 4 stroke in the mechanical aspect

[Jehuty]

I asked a pro...below is the answer, Please read...

 

 

=======================================================

 

Hi there,

 

It is a NOT recommended.

 

2-stroke oil has a very short working life, straight in and out, and itgets burnt. The 2-stroke engine doesn't have a sump full of oil and thebearings are all rollers, so there's hardly any oil drag, hence no needfor multi-grades. Long term stability is obviously not a problem! But,2-stroke must burn off without leaving any plug-fouling ordetonation-initiating deposits. The detergent and anti-wear additivesused in 4-stroke oil leave hard white ash behind when they burn, justwhat you do NOT need in a 2-stroke. So 2-stroke oils use low-ashdetergents and dispersants, and the better types use ester synthetics toact as anti-wear compounds. With current environmental concerns, smokeis a sensitive issue, so most 'road' 2-stroke oils are now low smoke,which requires yet another type of synthetic base designed to burn offinvisibly. For some rather basic but very high-revving air-cooled racing2-strokes there's still some sense in using blends with that marvellousanti-seize liquid, castor oil! Due to crankcase induction and compression, the classical 2-strokeobviously cannot have an oil-filled sump, so the only way to keep an oilfilm on anything was to add oil to the fuel, or inject oil into thecrankcase space where it could mix with the fuel vapour. There are nowsome engines where the fuel and oil are injected separately, but the oilis still burnt. 4T oils are designed to last much longer and contain lots ofmulti-functional additives including anti-oxidants, anti-wear andcorrosion inhibitors.

 

Best regards,

 

Harry Lim

Automotive R&D and Customer Service ChemistFuchs Lubricants (UK) PLC

 

The pro doesn't answer the question dey.

[Limsteel]

What talking he? We talking about adding 2T directly into the Fuel tank full of petrol... HE beats round the bush but never answer the question. Did you ask the question properly or he misunderstand what you asking?

 

Good info anyway. I removed my single plug after 1500Km running with ~1.5ml(2t)/ltr of Ron92 SPC petrol.

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

What talking he? We talking about adding 2T directly into the Fuel tank full of petrol... HE beats round the bush but never answer the question. Did you ask the question properly or he misunderstand what you asking?

 

Good info anyway. I removed my single plug after 1500Km running with ~1.5ml(2t)/ltr of Ron92 SPC petrol.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]226331[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]226332[/ATTACH]

 

nice pic , just to check , is the black stain wet?

[Limsteel]

This is not conclusive, I did not see the plug before I started the addition of 2T. The dark strain

- on the thread - dry, patchy and black

- Ground stem - brownish

- electrode - iridium tip is shiny, the body is darker same is the rim. Looks like carbon

 

Plug is dry

 

I am running without 2T now on SPC Ron95 with a new plug. my weekly milage is 250km. See the plug in 6weeks time.

Edited November 24, 2011 by Limsteel
Don't want add 1 word posting

[ChaoPuzzy1968]

yup the rim , the black stain was it wet?

[CSV]

looks like normal usuage on the spark plugs. brownish on the electrode, black dry carbon on the outer threads. same as mine.

[Orleng]

Exactly, as CSV mentioned, looked perfectly normal.

 

Light tan(brown) on the insulator.

 

Courtesy of Dan's MC, copyright to him and NGK spark plugs.

 

http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark_plugs_catalog.html

 

Note, all the rims are sooty.....even on a normally running, not lean/rich engine, it still will have deposits. Plug recess hard to keep clean.

 

Note the electrode insulator colour, oil fouled, the insulator is black and wet. In Limsteel's pic, it corresponds with normal/regular pictures.

[Orleng]

I asked a pro...below is the answer, Please read...

 

 

=======================================================

 

Hi there,

 

It is a NOT recommended.

 

2-stroke oil has a very short working life, straight in and out, and itgets burnt. The 2-stroke engine doesn't have a sump full of oil and thebearings are all rollers, so there's hardly any oil drag, hence no needfor multi-grades. Long term stability is obviously not a problem! But,2-stroke must burn off without leaving any plug-fouling ordetonation-initiating deposits. The detergent and anti-wear additivesused in 4-stroke oil leave hard white ash behind when they burn, justwhat you do NOT need in a 2-stroke. So 2-stroke oils use low-ashdetergents and dispersants, and the better types use ester synthetics toact as anti-wear compounds. With current environmental concerns, smokeis a sensitive issue, so most 'road' 2-stroke oils are now low smoke,which requires yet another type of synthetic base designed to burn offinvisibly. For some rather basic but very high-revving air-cooled racing2-strokes there's still some sense in using blends with that marvellousanti-seize liquid, castor oil! Due to crankcase induction and compression, the classical 2-strokeobviously cannot have an oil-filled sump, so the only way to keep an oilfilm on anything was to add oil to the fuel, or inject oil into thecrankcase space where it could mix with the fuel vapour. There are nowsome engines where the fuel and oil are injected separately, but the oilis still burnt. 4T oils are designed to last much longer and contain lots ofmulti-functional additives including anti-oxidants, anti-wear andcorrosion inhibitors.

 

Best regards,

 

Harry Lim

Automotive R&D and Customer Service ChemistFuchs Lubricants (UK) PLC

 

Seems like from what I understand, he's talking about a 2-stroke engine and oil. and to NOT add 4-cycle oil into a two stroke engine.

 

"The detergent and anti-wear additivesused in 4-stroke oil leave hard white ash behind when they burn, justwhat you do NOT need in a 2-stroke. So 2-stroke oils use low-ashdetergents and dispersants, and the better types use ester synthetics toact as anti-wear compounds. With current environmental concerns, smokeis a sensitive issue, so most 'road' 2-stroke oils are now low smoke,which requires yet another type of synthetic base designed to burn offinvisibly."