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[Archived - 2009] PK Official- Questions for Newbie


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Posted
just wanted to know whats the fastest speed for a ta200

 

the highest i could go was 120km/h

sometimes 299km/, at times 199km/h, usually I'll just go at 99km/h or a lil faster at 129km/h :cool:

 

Higher than 'average'. Waiting time is also long.

If you leave your bike there and let him finish his job overnight, then okay. If you rush him to do a one-day job then i guess jB knows what can happen :cheeky:

The job I gave him wasn't a one day job dude, he was doing it slowly also :nono: Don't wanna take chances already, anyway just changed EO at planet motors with the lil extra distance within a short waiting time ;)
Posted
sometimes 299km/, at times 199km/h, usually I'll just go at 99km/h or a lil faster at 129km/h :cool:

 

:clapping: :clapping: :clapping: waaaa~~~ your bike is in a class of its own can add wings n fly liao :bouncefire: can take off from lim chu kang

Posted
just wanted to know whats the fastest speed for a ta200

 

the highest i could go was 120km/h

 

speed depends on a lot of things.... first the trivial things your weight and how u sit on the bike.

secondly how your bike is set up.... standard... 120 is killing it and it wont last long.

Change a few things and you can go a bit quicker.... but i wont tell you what as i dont want to be responsible for your bike ending up broken.:cheeky:

Posted
:lol: u want to rent my spare bike when its done? ROFL

 

wad spare bike?

Posted
wad spare bike?

 

 

lol sum1 got 2 bike already lah:cheeky: :cheeky:

The pain of discipline is nothing like the pain of disappointment
:thumb:
Posted
sometimes 299km/, at times 199km/h, usually I'll just go at 99km/h or a lil faster at 129km/h :cool:

 

:clapping: :clapping: :clapping: waaaa~~~ your bike is in a class of its own can add wings n fly liao :bouncefire: can take off from lim chu kang

maybe ;) A pair on my back(+1personal HP), another on my heels(+1personal HP), rear fenders(+1 bike HP) and the honda emblem(+1 bike HP). able to 129km/h :angel:

wad spare bike?

saw that ;)

lol sum1 got 2 bike already lah:cheeky: :cheeky:

somebody too :lol: anyway you guys never leave space for newbies to post questions ar come here chit chat :slapforehead:

Posted
speed depends on a lot of things.... first the trivial things your weight and how u sit on the bike.

secondly how your bike is set up.... standard... 120 is killing it and it wont last long.

Change a few things and you can go a bit quicker.... but i wont tell you what as i dont want to be responsible for your bike ending up broken.:cheeky:

 

wa.... 120km/h is killing it liao ah.... ok will take note. cuz sometimes i see phantoms zooooom past me~~~~ and i going at 100 liao

Posted

i have a question regarding higher quality brake line.

 

i was wondering, why do people upgrade brake lines, when i'm very sure, that anyone is capable of locking the front wheel at any speeds, if they really put in the effort to squeeze the handles. (i have personally skidded the front tyre on a wet day, even with firm gradual braking, thank my stars for using intermittent braking)

 

i've used my buddy "Search" and most of the results are posts of people who are interested to upgrade, but could not find the advantages of upgraded brake lines.

 

i would raise 2 hands up in agreement if anyone told me good tyres and + good road conditions + good judgement will let you stop in time.

 

after trying XJR, i must agree that double disc brakes give super stopping power, but that's combined with thick and soft tyres with plenty of surface contact to assist.

 

If we put double disc brakes on a 2b bike, its likely the wheel will slip with that enormous braking power. At least that's what the instructor mentioned as a possibility, when i asked about stopping power.

 

so, the question is, why upgrade brake lines? simply to squeeze less and brake better instead?

 

cheers.

Posted

Your stock rubber brake lines are made of rubber. When you depress the lever, the brake pump forces more brake fluid into the lines which go to your calipers etc etc. What occurs then is that 'flexing' occurs; part of the force than you apply on your lever is wasted in the flexing action the rubber lines make, and the residual energy goes to your calipers. Which means if you want better braking power, you got to press damn hard, coz the harder you press, the more flexing will occur.

 

Upgrading to steel braided lines eliminates the flexing problem, giving you better brake feel. You are able to better feel the braking effect at the slightest movement of the lever, and consequentially will be more able to control your braking, minimising the possibility of locking your wheels. Also, because less power is now wasted in flexing, you'll have the impression that your braking power has improved.

 

With such a setup, even with double brake discs, once you've gotten used to how to gradually control your braking, you'll find it is easier to avoid locking up your wheels as well.

 

Generally, for brake upgrades, people tend to go in this direction, stopping where they feel they have achieved their desired brake feel and power, or if it becomes too expensive for their liking:

1. Brake Pads

2. Brake Lines

3. Brake Pump

4. Brake Rotors

5. Brake Calipers

 

This order is probably due to the costs involved at each stage. Pads will cost prolly 20-30 bucks? Lines from 80-200 depending on brand and length required(LAB GPR costs $35...but i don't recommend it coz i used it and it went bust on me). A good Brembo brake pump goes for roughly 250++ for a 2nd hand one to 5-600. Rotors will set you back by almost a thousand, depending on size, whether it's a wavy, and brand...of course there exist brandless knockoffs for a quarter the price(sometimes less)...but I really do not recommend saving money when it comes to tires and brakes. Brembo monoblocks cost USD3k plus...a lower range caliper of the same brand would go for 2k plus...go figure.

Postman Eating Inc*

 

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a208/murano04sfs/38y29ty14.gif

 

http://4gifs.com/gallery/d/155006-1/Mascot_scares_girl.gif

 

Squid defination: http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=squid

Posted
Your stock rubber brake lines are made of rubber. When you depress the lever, the brake pump forces more brake fluid into the lines which go to your calipers etc etc. What occurs then is that 'flexing' occurs; part of the force than you apply on your lever is wasted in the flexing action the rubber lines make, and the residual energy goes to your calipers. Which means if you want better braking power, you got to press damn hard, coz the harder you press, the more flexing will occur.

 

Upgrading to steel braided lines eliminates the flexing problem, giving you better brake feel. You are able to better feel the braking effect at the slightest movement of the lever, and consequentially will be more able to control your braking, minimising the possibility of locking your wheels. Also, because less power is now wasted in flexing, you'll have the impression that your braking power has improved.

 

With such a setup, even with double brake discs, once you've gotten used to how to gradually control your braking, you'll find it is easier to avoid locking up your wheels as well.

 

Generally, for brake upgrades, people tend to go in this direction, stopping where they feel they have achieved their desired brake feel and power, or if it becomes too expensive for their liking:

1. Brake Pads

2. Brake Lines

3. Brake Pump

4. Brake Rotors

5. Brake Calipers

 

This order is probably due to the costs involved at each stage. Pads will cost prolly 20-30 bucks? Lines from 80-200 depending on brand and length required(LAB GPR costs $35...but i don't recommend it coz i used it and it went bust on me). A good Brembo brake pump goes for roughly 250++ for a 2nd hand one to 5-600. Rotors will set you back by almost a thousand, depending on size, whether it's a wavy, and brand...of course there exist brandless knockoffs for a quarter the price(sometimes less)...but I really do not recommend saving money when it comes to tires and brakes. Brembo monoblocks cost USD3k plus...a lower range caliper of the same brand would go for 2k plus...go figure.

 

 

highly informative, as usual. thx mate.

Posted
the prob is take now using bike cover for 6 week.. and i dun think anybody going to remove it...

 

since it under bike cover.. the heat generated inside might be a hazard

lock your bike cover safer.. parking there for 6 weeks is quite a long time.. pple might suspect its abandoned..

Rat bike - A motorcycle not necessarily kept in pristine condition, often painted matt black. Minimal maintenance and mismatched parts often used.
Posted
wa.... 120km/h is killing it liao ah.... ok will take note. cuz sometimes i see phantoms zooooom past me~~~~ and i going at 100 liao

if you wanna go faster, change to 2a dude ;) don't kill your ride

:D

lock your bike cover safer.. parking there for 6 weeks is quite a long time.. pple might suspect its abandoned..

a bike in my carpark has been abandoned for 8 years but no one is doing anything about it :slapforehead:

Posted
wa.... 120km/h is killing it liao ah.... ok will take note. cuz sometimes i see phantoms zooooom past me~~~~ and i going at 100 liao

change to 2a dude ;) speed with ease, just make sure nobody is marking you :angel:

lock your bike cover safer.. parking there for 6 weeks is quite a long time.. pple might suspect its abandoned..

nobody has done anything to the 8 year old abandoned bike in my carpark man:slapforehead:

Posted

my bike unable to electric start, inside full tank and still gt battery.

 

I tried push start which is successfully, any idea what wrong? i dont want always push start.

Safety come First

Posted
wa.... 120km/h is killing it liao ah.... ok will take note. cuz sometimes i see phantoms zooooom past me~~~~ and i going at 100 liao

 

Same here but after I go past 90, the bike starts vibrating (not violent but the grrrrrr kind) and I ahve to hold my handle bar hard and focus. So I dont think about going 100 .. Ifyou say others are going at 120 and 140 with pillion n all , hmm .. I think there is some problem with my riding or bike :confused:

Posted
my bike unable to electric start, inside full tank and still gt battery.

 

I tried push start which is successfully, any idea what wrong? i dont want always push start.

what signs or sounds are there when you try to?

 

Thinking of going to go for malaysian trip, but scared that half way no petrol :p keep a bottle as reserve.

think some grade of plastic bottles can't take petrol, not sure about this. Best to use those tin cans that kiosks are selling ;) think its 3L or 5L :goodluck:

 

Same here but after I go past 90, the bike starts vibrating (not violent but the grrrrrr kind) and I ahve to hold my handle bar hard and focus. So I dont think about going 100 .. Ifyou say others are going at 120 and 140 with pillion n all , hmm .. I think there is some problem with my riding or bike :confused:

you have your balancer on? back when I didn't have mine, it kinda suck at 90km/h. I installed the balancer back on and its better with gloves :box:

Anyway, not advisable to speed on this bike.Seriously.

Posted
Same here but after I go past 90, the bike starts vibrating (not violent but the grrrrrr kind) and I ahve to hold my handle bar hard and focus. So I dont think about going 100 .. Ifyou say others are going at 120 and 140 with pillion n all , hmm .. I think there is some problem with my riding or bike :confused:

 

I don't think there's any problem, my bike also starts to vibrate more deeply past 90 on the speedo. We're probably just more sensitive to higher vibrations so feel that its not that safe to go faster.

http://i511.photobucket.com/albums/s351/thenation_bucket/whowatches.jpg
Posted
what signs or sounds are there when you try to?

 

 

think some grade of plastic bottles can't take petrol, not sure about this. Best to use those tin cans that kiosks are selling ;) think its 3L or 5L :goodluck:

 

 

you have your balancer on? back when I didn't have mine, it kinda suck at 90km/h. I installed the balancer back on and its better with gloves :box:

Anyway, not advisable to speed on this bike.Seriously.

 

Gloves .. am going to get one soon, any recommendations ?

 

Balancer .. whats that ? o_O

Posted

get a full length one that covers your wrist ;) doubt LAB has the good lasting ones. Get those leather types with kevlar protection or something. Chong Aik should have some decent ones :thumb:

Posted
Gloves .. am going to get one soon, any recommendations ?

 

Balancer .. whats that ? o_O

 

 

219 selling affordable gloves... but choose wisely coz some of them will get black hand when wet..

 

so far viper brand works well for the price paid.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb310/celticbiker/th_twins.jpg
Posted

I'm using Viper, don't get cheapskate gloves seriously. Some say, soak your gloves before using. Whilst some say it might do the gloves harm :nono:

Posted
Same here but after I go past 90, the bike starts vibrating (not violent but the grrrrrr kind) and I ahve to hold my handle bar hard and focus. So I dont think about going 100 .. Ifyou say others are going at 120 and 140 with pillion n all , hmm .. I think there is some problem with my riding or bike :confused:

 

This could be 1 of 2 things the steering head bushes may need to be replaced or your front wheel is out of balance.... both easily fixed at the bike shop.

If your wheel is out of balance the faster you go it starts bouncing up and down causing your forks to work overtime.

 

A Phantom when first bought from the shop is only geared to cruise comfortably at 90. Those that you see go roaring past you on the motorway have changed the setup to allow them to do so.

Posted
what signs or sounds are there when you try to?

QUOTE]

 

Only gt tick tick sound. like not enough spark power.

If try to press too much start button, den horn will be softer. not sure what happen also. :slapforehead:

Safety come First

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