Kawasaki KRR150 Riders

[Shockard]

Originally posted by w3rT@Jun 7 2005, 12:10 AM

hmmm let me see.

 

http://www.streetdirectory.com.sg rings a bell?

How the heck do I search for ducati showroom?

[Guest FireSpitter]

Originally posted by Shockard@Jun 7 2005, 12:57 AM

How the heck do I search for ducati showroom?

Bro... If you were any brighter, your IQ level would have shown a positive figure! If you really want to go there this evening at around 6+ pm, call or message me. I can bring you there as I need to see Bernard too.

[Guest FireSpitter]

Itching to spend some money? I've got some used goodies for KRR150 for sale:-

 

(1) Dual stage BOYESAN reed valve petals. Boyesen's patented dual-stage design incorporates a specially shaped top reed and a ported bottom reed. The top reed is lightweight and resilient for crisp throttle response at partial throttle or low RPMs. The stiffer, bottom reed is ported to provide maximum flow and horsepower at higher RPMs. More valves equals more power by creating:

 

More Air Flow - The dual-stage design allows you to replace your stock reed stop with a Rev-Plate which permits the reeds to open freely and function efficiently.

 

More Air Velocity - The multi-port feature of the bottom reed creates more channels for the charge, delivering increased velocity to the intake ports.

 

More Overall Power - Dual-stage reeds work in unison to perform efficiently throughout the entire powerband. The difference in stiffness between the top reed and the bottom reed allow the reeds to respond quickly and accurately to changes in engine pressure. This translates into quicker acceleration, crisper throttle response and increased horsepower throughout the powerband. > Secondary Reed

(Top Reed)

The top reed is specially shaped, lightweight and resilient for crisp throttle response at partial throttle or low RPMs.

> Primary Reed

(Bottom Reed)

The bottom reed is thicker, stiffer and ported to provide stability, maximum flow and horsepower at high RPMs.

> Rev-Plate

Allows the reed to open unimpeded and function more efficiently at higher RPMs.

 

 

 

THE BENEFITS

• Quicker acceleration for that all-important holeshot.

• Crisper throttle response for fast corner exits and surer jumps.

• More horsepower throughout the powerband for guaranteed performance.

• Improved engine efficiency and fuel economy for the long distance rider.

• Longer life - Boyesen Power Reeds outlast all other aftermarket reeds

 

Usual RRP $45 excluding workmanship. My price $25 plus free on site guidance on installation. Read the next post for more goodies!

[Guest FireSpitter]

Item 2.. 2(a) & 2(b) really!

 

2(a) One unit used original engine block. Just a normal used block. Ideal for those who wants or needs to do an overhaul soon but is on a low budget. Also good for those who wants to keep a spare block for future porting use. Original price $350. My price $100

 

2(b) One unit used ported engine block (Stage 1). Block is ported after months of extensive brainstorming of port shapes, calculations between myself and a Master porter (The Master designation is given by me but not self proclaimed by him!). For those of you who have known me long enough, I have been actively looking for a 2 stroke porter, who is knowledgeable, has a keen sense of detail, has delicate touches & obviously the right tools. 4 simple basic rules a porter should have but sad to say, I have met no less than 20+ "GURUs" but at the very most, they had only 2 of the 4 requirements. With some luck, I managed to pounce onto this one that I would make him a technical director if I had a race team someday! If you want some horror stories about some of the "GURUs", ask for it and I will tell you during an outing or can post it up here to "open your eyes big big". I have found him not too long ago and he was kind enough to discuss with me my concerns & my specific needs. I want a power delivery to be perfectly acceptable on daily street riding but yet feel comfortable for weekend blasts or track riding. I know it sounds ironic to have all this mentioned in the same sentence but do read on...

 

Now on to the main engine characteristics:-

 

What's wrong with the original that you have to port it, you say? The original's power delivery is sluggish (& rough) at the lower rpms, has a big hole in the centre of the midrange and very peaky at the high end (But tapers off too fast as well!).

 

Why doesn't Kawasaki make them better? Simple, for those of you studying or doing castings, mouldings etc.. would know that it is nearly impossible to cast every engine block (Or any item) with dimensional accuracy of XX microns. There will be a difference between their sizes. Don't believe me? Go borrow 2 new pistons of the same size & measure them with an accurate gauge to prove yourself wrong. Secondly, take a look at the casting edges of the original block. Ever noticed why is it so rough at the edges? If it can cut your finger (It will!), you can be sure it can do damage on your piston & rings! Part of porting includes chamfering the ports. This is a simple (Yet delicate) job which MANY GURU porters do not do. Piston life is prolonged with a chamfered piston chamber!

 

Lastly, cut the bullsh1t talk, what's the difference in the real world? Exactly the opposite of the original. Low rpms are lively now with much more available torque at the twist of your wrist. At this point, you start to wonder why didn't Kawasaki made this bike out of the factory this way! Whilst I have to admit the there is still a hole in the midrange but the problem is very much lessened because of the abundant torque in the lower rpm brings the revs up much faster and it soon shoots past the problem rpm range and into the "Nirvana" range, yes, the KIPS open valve stage. My complaint was the stock engine makes short spurts effectively from 8000rpm to 9500rpm then the power drops off very drastically all the way to 10500rpm. With the new motor, from 7500rpm all the way till 10500rpm, the torque curve is FLAT all the power, pulling constantly and the power never drops till you are hitting redline & need to upshift. There is no way that this engine is going to outperform a full race engine BUT this one can be used for daily commuting like bringing even your granny to the market without much fuss. Fuel consumption increase? Not really. My pal who is using the same ported engine as I am, in fact reported a slight decrease in fuel consumption. For myself, I am ALWAYS late for work and ride my bike much faster than usual (On a daily basis) but I noted no change in fuel economy at all.

 

Lastly, why so good you still selling? I'm using Stage 2 now (A little less user friendly for daily commuting but more of everything else!)

 

Now the price of my Stage 1 engine block. Brand new item $350. Porting (Market rate from professional "monkeys, "Gurus" & REAL Porters) $80-$600. My price for the whole ported engine block (Total mileage Est 6500km only) $300. (By the way, my porting costs alone for costs more than the block's price already!) Confirm NO REGRETS on this block!

 

Only the keen shall apply through PM!

[Guest FireSpitter]

By the way, I need help from you guys. If you are removing your rear or front wheels (To change tires, change bearings etc..), PLEASE help me find out what brand/model the wheel bearings are. If unsure, please check with the mechanic.

[Shockard]

Originally posted by FireSpitter@Jun 7 2005, 09:26 AM

Bro... If you were any brighter, your IQ level would have shown a positive figure! If you really want to go there this evening at around 6+ pm, call or message me. I can bring you there as I need to see Bernard too.

 

Can't make it, I've got class 3 lessons.

[Lass]

Originally posted by Shockard@Jun 6 2005, 01:40 PM

Burnt smell? Maybe it's your headlights? The last time I had a burnt smell if because I was wearing office pants, funny material gives off 'chao tar' smell when on my bike.

 

I had the same problem when I replaced my left big fairing, most of the time, it's the front U-shaped fairing causing the misalignment.

ic hmmm, i think it's more like the EO tat dripped on my exhaust after the EO change. nv clean properly

[Shockard]

Try spraying WD40 on your exhaust then go ride out. At traffic light junctions, you will notice smoke coming out from your bike, it's actually the WD40. Works best at night, then look at the face of the motorists around. Damn fun!

[d0n]

Originally posted by FireSpitter@Jun 5 2005, 07:24 PM

A classic example of being an idiot twice over. Dude, there's been plenty of recommendations throughout the whole KRR thread (Not to mention all the threads in SBF) & you changed to none of the recommended items? Time to spend money all over again....

hm

but no one told me original honda pads suck

[Lass]

Originally posted by d0n^@Jun 8 2005, 01:52 AM

hm

but no one told me original honda pads suck

haha alamak take EBC lah

[rankief]

wat spark plugs is recommended for krr?? wanna change later...

can i know wats the price range??

[tom3694]

Originally posted by rankief@Jun 8 2005, 10:00 AM

wat spark plugs is recommended for krr?? wanna change later...

can i know wats the price range??

no diff in brand NGK or DENSO as long made in japan should be good heat range

 

remain same price range from $4-$5 bucks

[ssecnirp]

hi all fellow krr riders, i was wondering hows the mileage of a krr? is it more advisable to get a first hand or second hand.

 

i am a p-plater female rider and i am afraid of getting a second hand cause none of my friends or family can help me choose. so a first hand can save all the hassle. i will be using it most for daily transport from tamp to ntu.

 

but i am afraid of unable to control the bike cause esp my skills are not up to standard as just pass and i am not that strong to handle the bike. can i have some advices? thanks

[Shockard]

Originally posted by ssecnirp@Jun 8 2005, 11:44 PM

hi all fellow krr riders, i was wondering hows the mileage of a krr? is it more advisable to get a first hand or second hand.

 

i am a p-plater female rider and i am afraid of getting a second hand cause none of my friends or family can help me choose. so a first hand can save all the hassle. i will be using it most for daily transport from tamp to ntu.

 

but i am afraid of unable to control the bike cause esp my skills are not up to standard as just pass and i am not that strong to handle the bike. can i have some advices? thanks

I got my KRR first hand, mileage is 160km for 5 litres of petrol (rpm around 6.5k, seldom open valve at 7k). So if we round off, that equates to about 30km per litre, our full tank can contain 11.5 litres of petrol, so the bike should be able to travel for 330km before running completely dry. This is on a fully stock bike.

 

Don't worry, you got your 2B license, you will be able to handle a KRR. Just a matter of getting used and not doing anything silly. The bike's around 120kg dry weight, with full tank about 130kg.

 

Hope that helps.

[ddaniel]

Originally posted by ssecnirp@Jun 8 2005, 11:44 PM

hi all fellow krr riders, i was wondering hows the mileage of a krr? is it more advisable to get a first hand or second hand.

 

i am a p-plater female rider and i am afraid of getting a second hand cause none of my friends or family can help me choose. so a first hand can save all the hassle. i will be using it most for daily transport from tamp to ntu.

 

but i am afraid of unable to control the bike cause esp my skills are not up to standard as just pass and i am not that strong to handle the bike. can i have some advices? thanks

wateva bike u buy...u gota get used to it...

kips is not difficult to control..mileage not too bad oso...

as for buying 1st hand or 2ndhand..dat will 1st depend on how much cash u r willing to part wif...if wana pay by monthly installments,private sellers of 2nd hand krr usu wan full cash....n whether u intend to change to class2A..cos no point buying a new bike n sell it off in a year..u will lose a lot of money...depreciation alot loh...

n if u needa buy 2nd hand krr...i suppose d guys in this forum can help u in one way or another

 

btw

 

1 more kips rider in ntu den..rem to say HI..

[razorblade41]

guys, think my front brake worn out.

 

wat brand should i change to and how much + installation. if i change to steel hose as well....how much altogether?

 

Thx.

[Shockard]

Originally posted by razorblade41@Jun 9 2005, 04:08 PM

guys, think my front brake worn out.

 

wat brand should i change to and how much + installation. if i change to steel hose as well....how much altogether?

 

Thx.

Change your brake line to Hel! Now my rear brake feels scary.

 

Regarding the pads.

 

***

 

Dear bikers,

 

I have limited numbers of EBC HH rated brake pads for Honda Phantom and KAwasaki KRR150.

 

self collection will be at $45 per set.

 

delivery to your door step will be extra $3 per trip.

 

Please forward this message to your friends. Even better, ask them to join in my Uberstore Mailing list. More offers will be coming up soon.......

 

Regards,

Uberstore

 

Email this guy at [email protected]

[d0n]

Originally posted by Shockard@Jun 9 2005, 05:23 PM

Change your brake line to Hel! Now my rear brake feels scary.

got time let me try try yr HEL ah~

[Shockard]

Originally posted by d0n^@Jun 9 2005, 05:48 PM

got time let me try try yr HEL ah~

No problem!

[Lass]

Originally posted by Shockard@Jun 9 2005, 05:23 PM

Change your brake line to Hel! Now my rear brake feels scary.

 

Regarding the pads.

 

***

 

 

 

Email this guy at [email protected]

eeks hardly use rear

[tom3694]

Originally posted by Lass@Jun 9 2005, 09:07 PM

eeks hardly use rear

rear will be useful when rainin as u can salvage the fish-tail of rear but u cant

 

remedy the front wash-out

[Guest FireSpitter]

You can save on yearly brake pad expenditure if you use your rear brake more often. Example using it solely to stop when approaching traffic lights junction.

[Lass]

Originally posted by tom3694@Jun 9 2005, 10:06 PM

rear will be useful when rainin as u can salvage the fish-tail of rear but u cant

 

remedy the front wash-out

rainy, i use a bit of rear though.

 

firespitter - wei! still at home ah hehe no need to work ah. rear brakes - using stock ones still cos my habit mainly front.

[razorblade41]

Originally posted by Shockard@Jun 9 2005, 05:23 PM

Change your brake line to Hel! Now my rear brake feels scary.

hmmm....but how much for installation?? can give mi a rough price? i need to change soon but i dunnoe where to go and the cost of it. i'm still a newbie...EBC and HEl diff brands?

[Shockard]

Originally posted by razorblade41@Jun 10 2005, 02:51 PM

hmmm....but how much for installation?? can give mi a rough price? i need to change soon but i dunnoe where to go and the cost of it. i'm still a newbie...EBC and HEl diff brands?

Hel is for the brand for steel braided brake hoses. EBC is the brand for brake pads.